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Iowa Leaves 



SIX CHAPTERS 



CLARA B. ROUSE 



"Some said, 'John, print it'; others said, not so. 
Some said, it might do good; others said, no." 

— John Bunyan 



1891 

ILLINOIS PRINTING AND BINDING CO. 
CHICAGO 



Copyright, 1891 
CLARA B. ROUSE 






f 






PRESS OF 

ILLINOIS I'RINTING AND BINDING CO. 

CHICAGO. 



;LC - I- 1\10\ 



TO 

THE STATE OF IOWA, 

KING BLUE GRASS, KING CORN 

AND KING COAL 

THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 

BY THE 

AyTHORESS 

CLAR.-^,)B. ROUSE 



Three kings there are to rule the earth. 

And mightier none could be; 

Howe'er he strives, no man alive 

From their control is free. 

And one is yellow, and one is black. 

And one is green, we know; 

The yellow one is the youngest one, 

But not the strongest, though, g^ 

By these and theirs, the world's affairs 

They vigorously control. 

And the names these mighty monarchs bear 

Are Corn, Blue Grass and Coal. 



INTRODUCTION. 

While it is the privilege of many to visit and observe 
different portions of our country — as traveling has greatly 
increased in late 3'ears, and as facilities are multiplied, is 
likely to increase still more — yet it is chiefly confined to cer- 
tain classes by no means numerically large. There are others 
w^ho are cut off from this species of amusement and inform- 
ation — they have neither the requisite leisure nor sufficient 
wealth, perhaps; many also are unfitted for traveling by reason 
of habit or disposition, new objects would neither please nor 
profit them. But for such a privation is there no idemnity? 
Must they who cannot visit places of interest and amusement, 
and view with their own eyes, the varieties of pleasurable 
objects within our own State, always remain in ignorance? 
Happily this is not the severe condition of their being. It is 
not necessary to forego the pleasure and advantage of a 
varied and extensive knowledge of the world ; they may enjoy 
it at home and in every season of the year, even amidst the 
frosts and confinements of winter. They may travel and view 
the interesting points of our State described in this book, and 
never quit the fireside or porticoes of their own homes. If 
it be necessary to explain to our readers how this can be 
done, we will begin by supposing that the long evenings of 
winter are at hand, the storm rages abroad, the wind howls 
around your dwellings, but you are quietly seated by your 
comfortable fire, and vou wish some amusing and yet pro- 



INTRODUCTION. 

fitable employment in which to pass away the hours. We 
propose then to make a travehng excursion, a sort of tarry 
at home journey, or trip throughout the State of Iowa. 

We will endeavor by giving a condensed, 3'et sufficiently 
extensive history of the State, from the first settlement down 
to the present time. Early reminiscences of the pioneers, 
their customs and mode of living, with short sketches of 
adventure; the discovery of the great Father of Waters that 
forms the eastern boundary, the enterprise and genius of our 
present citizens, soil and climate, railroad facilities, our manu- 
factures, coal mines, products of our soil, with full and com- 
plete description of the Blue Grass regions of southwest Iowa, 
and the great Blue Grass palaces of 1889 and '90, at Creston, 
Union county, the Coal Palace regions of southeast Iowa and 
Black Diamond Palace at Ottumwa in Wapello county, the 
Corn Palace regions of northwest Iowa and Corn Palace at 
Sioux City, reminicences of northeast and central Iowa, and 
description of the capitol city Des Moines, and other places of 
interest in our state. 

We have been so far encouraged by the patronage vouch- 
safed, that this work has been extended far beyond the scope 
originally intended. Our solicitude for the success of the 
enterprise in a business sense was natural, but has not been our 
sole solicitude. 

We have likewise intensely desired to make the work 
reliable, full and attractive, and thereby to merit the public 
favor which the people of the state have extended to us. 

In presenting the work to our man}- hundred readers, we 
have the satisfaction of knowing that they are of sufficient 
intelligence to appreciate merit when found, and further be- 
lieving that errors will be criticised with the understanding 



INTRODUCTION. 

that book-making, like all other kinds of labor, has its peculiar 
vicissitudes. 

We have been materially aided in the preparation of this 
work by some persons in the state, wIk) made no claim for 
compensation, and we expect no reward except that which 
comes from conciousness of having aided in a worthy enter- 
prise, and deserve the thanks of the citizens in the counties 
where they reside. 

As self-knowledge is the most important, and a knowledge 
of our own country is to be preferred to that of all others, we 
will take a survey of ourselves, and when you have done this, 
if you become weary, you may retreat and we will endeavor to 
enlist some one else to accompany us. It is our purpose, how- 
ever, to make the circuit so interesting, that instead of leaving 
us we expect you will cling the closer the longer we travel 
together. Should any of our readers not appreciate the work, 
the time will come when their children will. 

Without further preface we will commence our review of 
the greatest state in the Union — Iowa. 

Clara B. Rouse. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

General Descriptive Sketch of the State and First Settlement by the Whites. . 17 
Enterprise and Progress— Founding of State Institutions, etc.— History of 

the Great Father of Waters— Boating in Early Days 55 

Southwestern Iowa— Beauties of the Blue Grass Regions and Blue Grass 

Palace at Creston, Union County 85 

Burlington Route 227 

Southwestern Iowa— A Romance of King Coal 251 

Northeastern Iowa— Corn Palace Regions and Corn Palace— Pioneer Periods 

of the Northwest, etc 340 

Early Reminiscences of Northeast and Central Iowa and Description of the 

Capital City .^^ 

Conclusion— Iowa; Its Agricultural Advantages and Inducements to Emi- 
gration ^_^^ 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

Iowa State Capitol Frontispiece 

Encampment on the Mississippi 20 

Scene on Grand River 23 

Spirit Lake 25 

Indian at Home 33 

Going to Church in Iowa in Early Days 36 

Chief Keokuk 40 

Indians Hunting the Buffalo 44 

Squaws Guarding the Corn 48 

A Pioneer Cabin 50 

An Iowa Home in Early Days 51 

Log School-house 63 

Col. Robt. Robinson 65 

Gen. A. C. Dodge 66 

Marquette and Joliet Entering the Mississippi 67 

Indian Peace Pipes 69 

Indian Canoe 71 

The Institution for Feeble-Minded Children 74 

Blue Grass Palace of 1891 88 

Lake Maurine, near Creston 97 

Court-House 98 

Scene Looking North on Maple Street 100 

Residence of W. F. Patt 102 

Residence of R. S. Keith 104 

Scene Looking West on Montgomery Street 106 

Clothing Store of L. Friend no 



-^IST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 13 

F. J. Taylor i iq 

Samson, the Camel 121 

Romeo 122 

Beauty 122 

Beggs Bros. Wagon 1 24 

Creston High School 1 26 

St. Malachy's Church 127 

Congregational Church ... 1 28 

First Methodist Episcopal Church 129 

Fairview Place in Montgomery County 152 

A Farm Residence in Montgomery County 1 53 

Shorthorn Farm of Wayne Stennett 155 

Hon. John Y. Stone's Fruit Farm 1 58 

Court-House, Glenwood, Mills County 161 

County Court-House, Fremont County 168 

Court-House, Clarinda 1 72 

High School, Clarinda 1 74 

Court Street, Bedford, Looking North 178 

Main Street, Bedford— Looking West 1 79 

Bedford Business College 181 

High School, Bedford 182 

Court-House, Leon, Decatur County 185 

Farmers' and Traders' Bank, Leon 186 

West Side Square, Leon 1 88 

Main Street, Leon— Looking South 189 

Court-House, Centreville, Appanoose County 192 

Standard Coal Company, Centreville 194 

Walnut Coal Company, Centreville 196 

Diamond Coal Company, Centreville 197 

Present \'iew of Ottumwa from Coal Palace Town 260 

Union Passenger Depot, Ottumwa 265 



14 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Johnson RiiHlor Works, Ouiiniwa 268 

New Postoffice Building, Ottumwa 270 

W. T. Harper's Residence, Ottumwa 273 

( )ituniwa Coal Palace 276 

Officers of Coal Palace Association . 279 

Hotel Garretson, Sioux City 362 

United Bank Building, Sioux City 364 

Grand Opera House— Chamber of Commerce — First M. E. Church— Metro- 
politan Block, Sioux City 366 

Sioux City Corn Palace 378 

General Geo. W. Jones, Pioneer of Northeastern Iowa 395 

Grand Opera House, Des Moines 421 

Savery House, West Locust Street, Des Moines 424 

Callahan College, Des Moines 429 

The Equitable Building, Des Moines 435 

The Youngerman Block, Des Moines 436 



PART FIRST 



IOWA LEAVES 



GENERAL DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH OF THE STATE 

AND FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY THE WHITES. 

DRIVING OUT THE INDIANS, ETC. 



IOWA LEAVES. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH OF THE STATE AND FIRST SETTLE- 
MENT BY THE WHITES. 



CHAPTER I. 



Iowa is one of the most beautiful states in the Union, and 
is bounded on the north by the state of ^Minnesota, on the east 
by Ilhnois and Wisconsin, on the south by Missouri and on the 
west by Nebraska and Dakota, and is about 300 miles in length, 
east and west, and a little over 200 miles in breadth, north and 
south, having nearly the figure of a rectangular parallelogram. 

Its northern boundary is the parallel of 43 degrees 30 min- 
utes, separating it from the state of Minnesota. Its southern 
limit is nearly on the line of 40 degrees 31 minutes from the 
point where this parallel crosses the Dcs Moines river west- 
ward. From this point to the southeast corner of the state, a 
distance of about thirty miles, the Des Moines river forms the 
boundary line between Iowa and Missouri. 

The two great rivers of the North American continent 
form the east and west boundaries proper, except that portion 
of the western boundary adjoining the state of Dakota. 

The BisT Sioux river, from its mouth two miles above 
Sioux City, intersects the parallel of 43 degrees 30 minutes. 



17 



18 IOWA LEAVES. 

These limits embrace an area of 55,045 square miles or 35,228,- 
800 acres. When it is understood that all this vast extent of 
surface, except that which is occupied by the rivers and lakes 
and peat beds of the northern counties, is susceptible of the 
highest cultivation, some idea may be formed of the immense 
agricultural resources of the state. 

Iowa is nearly as large as England, and twice as large as 
Scotland, but, when we consider the relative area of surface 
which may be made to yield the wants of man, those countries 
of the old world will bear no comparison with Iowa. The sur- 
face of the state is remarkably uniform, rising to nearly the 
same general altitude. There are no mountains, and yet but 
little of the surface is level or flat. The whole state presents a 
succession of gentle elevations and depressions, with some bold 
and picturesque bluffs along the principal streams. The western 
portion of the state is generally more elevated than the eastern, 
the northwestern part being the highest. Nature could not 
have provided a more perfect system of drainage, and, at the 
same time, leave the country so completely adapted to all the 
purposes of agriculture. 

Looking at the map of Iowa v/e see two systems of streams 
or rivers, running nearly at right angles with each other. The 
streams which discharge their waters into the Mississippi flow 
from the northwest to the southeast, while those of the other 
system flow toward the southwest, and empty into the Missouri. 
The former drain about three-fourths of the state, and the 
latter the remaining one-fourth. 

The watershed dividing the two systems of streams repre- 
sents the highest portions of the state, and gradually descends 
as you follow its course from northwest to southeast. 

Low water mark in the Missouri river at Council Bluffs 



IOWA LEAVES. 19 

is about 425 feet above low water mark in the Mississippi at 
Davenport. At the crossing of the summit or watershed, 245 
miles west of Davenport, the elevation is about 960 feet above 
the Mississippi. The Des Moines river, at the city of Des 
Moines, has an elevation of 227 feet above the Mississippi at 
Davenport, and is 198 feet lower than the ISIissouri at Council 
Bluffs. The elevation of the eastern border of the state at 
MacGregor is about 624 feet above the level of the sea, while the 
highest elevation in the northwest portion of the state is 1,400 
feet above the level of the sea. In addition to the grand water- 
shed mentioned above as dividing the waters of the Mississippi 
and Missouri, there are between the principal streams eleva- 
tions commonly called "divides," which are drained by numer- 
ous streams of a smaller size tributary to the rivers. The 
valleys along the streams have a deep rich soil, but are scarcely 
more fertile than many portions of those undulating prairie 
"divides." 

The rivers of Iowa are divided into two systems or classes 
— those flowing into the Mississippi, and those flowing into the 
Missouri. The Mississippi river, the largest on the continent, 
and one of the largest in the world, washes the entire eastern 
border of the state, and is, most of the year, navigable for a 
large class of steamers. The onl}' serious obstruction to 
steamers of the largest size is what is knov/n as the Lower 
Rapids, just above the mouth of the Des Moines. Tlic govern- 
ment of the United States has constructed a canal or channel 
around these rapids on the Iowa side of tlie river, a work which 
will prove of immense advantage to the commerce of Iowa for 
all time to come. The principal rivers which flow through the 
interior of the state, east of the watershed, are the Des Moines, 
Skunk and Iowa. One of the larijcst rivers in the state is Red 




INDIAN ENCAMPMENT ON THE MISSISSII'l'I. 



IOWA LEAVES. 21 

Cedar, which rises in Minnesota, and, flowing in a southeasterly 
direction, joins its waters with Iowa river in Louisa county, 
only about thirty miles from its mouth, that portion below the 
junction retaining the name of Iowa river, although above the 
junction it is really the smaller stream. The Des Moines is the 
largest interior river of the state, and rises in a group or chain 
of lakes in Minnesota, not far from the Iowa border. It really 
has its source in two principal branches, called East and West 
Des ]Moines, which, after flowing about seventy miles through 
the northern portion of the state, converge to their junction in 
the southern part of Humboldt county. The Des Moines 
receives a number of large tributaries, and flows from northwest 
to southeast not less than 300 miles through Iowa, and drains 
over 10,000 square miles of territory. At an early day steam- 
boats, at certain seasons of the year, navigated this river as far 
up as the "Raccoon Forks," and a large grant of land was made 
by Congress to the state for the purpose of improving its navi- 
gation. The land was subsequently diverted to the construction 
of the Des Moines Valley railroad. 

The next river above the Des Moines is Skunk, which has 
its source in Hamilton county, north of the center of the state. 
It traverses a southeast course, having two principal branches, 
their aggregate length being about 450 miles. They drain 
about 8,000 square miles of territory, and afford many excellent 
mill sites. 

The next is the Iowa river, which drains about 12,000 
square miles of territory. The ''Wapsie'' furnishes splendid 
water-power for machinery, while the Maquoketa drains about 
3,000 miles of rich territory. 

The Turkey river drains about 2,000 square miles. Upper 
Iowa river passes through a narrow, but picturesque and beau- 



22 IOWA LEAVES. 

tiful valley, affording ample water-power for machinery at 
numerous points. 

Havingf mentioned the rivers which drain the eastern three- 
fourths of the state, we will now cross the great "watershed" 
to the Missouri and its tributaries. 

The Big Sioux river empties into the Missouri about two 
miles above Sioux City, and drains about i,ooo square miles 
of Iowa territory. The Flo3"d river flows through a rich and 
beautiful valley, and drains about 15,000 square miles. The 
Little Sioux river is one of the most important streams of 
northwestern Iowa. It rises in the vicinity of Spirit and 
Okoboji lakes, near the Minnesota line, and meanders through 
various coijjties, a distance of nearly 300 miles, and, with its 
tributaries,<lrrains not less than 5,000 square miles. Boyer river 
is the next stream of considerable size below the Little Sioux 
— about 150 miles in length — and flows through a rich and 
lovely valley. The Nishnabotna river empties into the Mis- 
souri some twenty miles below the southwest corner of the state. 
It has three principal branches, with an aggregate length of 350 
miles. These streams drain about 5,000 square miles of south- 
western Iowa. They flow through valleys of unsurpassed 
beauty and fertility, and furnish good water-power at various 
points. 

The southern portion of the state is drained by several 
streams that flow into the Missouri- the most important of 
tliese are Chariton, Grand, Platte, One Hundred and Two, and 
the three Nodaways — East, West and Middle. All of these 
afford water-power for machinery, and present splendid valleys 
of rich farminfr lands. 

We have above onl}- mentioned the streams that have been 
designated as rivers, but there are many other streams of great 



24 IOWA LEAVES. 

importance and value to different portions of the state, draining 
the country, furnishing mill sites and adding to the variety and 
beaut}' of the scenery. So admirable is the natural drainage of 
almost the entire state that the farmer who has not a stream of 
living water on his premises is an exception to the general rule. 
In some of the northern counties of Iowa there are man}'^ small 
but beautiful lakes, some of which we shall notice; the follow- 
ing are among the most noted of the lakes in northern Iowa: 
Clear lake, Rice lake, Twin lakes, Owl lake. Lake Gertrude, 
Elm lake. Wall lake, Swan lake. Storm lake, Okoboji and Spirit 
lakes. Nearl}- all of these are deep and clear, abounding in man}' 
varieties of excellent fish, which are caught abundantly by the 
settlers at all proper seasons of the year All of them, except 
Storm lake, have fine bodies of timber on their borders. Oko- 
boji is the most beautiful of all the northern lakes in Iowa. 
Walter Scott could not invest the historic lakes of Scotia with 
more of the wild beauty of scenery, suggestive of poetry and 
romance, than we here find around the loveliest of Iowa lakes. 
The eastern half of the state contains a larger proportion of 
timber than the western. The following are the leading varie- 
ties of timber: White, black and burr oak, black walnut, butter- 
nut, hickory, hard and soft maple, cherry, red and white elm, 
ash, linn, hackberry, birch, honey locust, cottonwood, quaking 
asp and sycamore Groves of red cedar also prevail, especially 
along Iowa and Cedar rivers, and a few isolated pine trees are 
scattered along the bluffs of some of the streams in the northern 
part of the state. 

CLIMATE. 

Prof. Parvin, who has devoted great attention to the clima- 
tology of Iowa, in a series of observations made by him at Mus- 



26 IOWA LEAVES. 

catine from 1839 to 1859, inclusive, and at Iowa City from i860 
to 1870, inclusive, deduces the following general results: That 
the months of November and March are essentially winter 
months, their average temperature rising but a few degrees 
above the freezing point. Much of the former month is indeed 
mild and pleasant, but in it usually comes the first cold spell, 
followed generally by mild weather, while in March the farmer 
is often enabled to commence his spring plowing. September 
has usually a summer temperature, and proves a ripening season 
for the fall crops, upon which the farmer may rely with safety 
if the spring has been at all backward. May has much more 
the character of a spring month than that of summer, and 
"May Day" is not often greeted with a profusion of flowers. 
The average temperature of May during thirty-two years was 
59.06 degrees, while that of September was 63.37 degrees. 
Prof. Parvin states that during thirty-five years the mercury 
rose to 100 degrees only once within the region of his observa- 
tions in Iowa, and that was during the summer of 1870. It 
seldom rises above 95 degrees, or falls lower than 15 
degrees below zero. The highest temperature, with very few 
exceptions, occurs in the month of August, while July is the 
hottest month, as indicated by the mean temperature of the 
summer months. January is the coldest month, and in this only 
once in thirty-two years did the mercury fall to 30 degrees 
below zero. The prevailing winds are those of a westerly 
direction, not for the year alone, but for the several months of 
the year, except June, July, August and September. August is 
the month in which the greatest amount of rain falls, and in 
January the least. The greatest fall of rain in any one year was 
in 185 1 — 94-49 inches, and the least in 1854 — 23.35 inches. 
The greatest fall of snow for any one year was in 1868 — 61.97 



IOWA LEAVES. 27 



Indies. The least was in 1850 — 7.90 inches. The earliest fall 
of snow during twenty-two years from 1848 to 1869, inclusive, 
was October 17, 1859, and the .latest April 29, 1851. The 
greatest fall was December 21, 1848 — 20.50 inches. Rain usu- 
ally occurs in each of the winter months. 



SOILS. 



Dr. White has separated the soils of Iowa into three 
general divisions, viz. : the drift, bluff and alluvial. The drift 
soil occupies the greater portion of the state, the bluff next, and 
the alluvial the least. The drift is derived primarily from the 
disintegration of rocks, to a considerable extent perhaps from 
those of Minnesota, which were subject to violent glacial action 
during the glacial epoch. This soil is excellent, and is generally 
free from coarse drift materials, especially near the surface. 

The bluff soil occupies an area estimated at about 5,000 
square miles in the western part of the state. It has many 
peculiar and marked characteristics, and is believed to be 
lacustral in its origin. In some places the deposit is as great 
as 200 feet in thickness, all portions of it being equal in 
fertility. If this soil be taken from its lowest depth — say 
200 feet below the surface — vegetation germinates and 
thrives as readily in it as in the surface deposit. It is of a 
slightly yellowish ash color, except when mixed with decaying 
vegetation. It is composed mainly of silica, but the silicious 
matter is so finely pulverized that the naked eye is unable to 
perceive anything like sand in its composition. The bluffs along 
the Missouri river in the western part of the state are composed 
of this material. 

The alluvial soils are the "bottom" lands along the river 
and smaller streams. They are the washings of other soils 



28 IOWA LEAVES. 

mixed with deca3'ed vegetable, matter. They vary somewhat 
in character and fertiHty, but the best of them are regarded as 
the most fertile soils in the state. As to the localities occupied 
by each of these different soils, it may be stated that the drift 
forms the soil of all the higher plains and wood lands of the 
state, except a belt along the western border, which is occupied 
by the bluff soil, or bluff deposit, as it is generally called. The 
alluvial occupies the low lands, both prairie and timber along 
the streams. It may be remarked that the alluvial soil com- 
posing the broad belt of "bottom " along the Missouri partakes 
largely of the bluff soil, owing to continued washings from the 
high lands or bluffs adjacent. 

ECONOMIC GEOLOGY. 

Every year is adding to our knowledge and attesting 
the importance and value of our vast coal deposits. In some 
unknown age of the past, long before the history of our race 
began, nature, by some wise process, made a bountiful provision 
for the tmie when, in the order of things, it should become 
necessary for civilized man to take possession of these broad 
rich prairies. As an equivalent for the lack of trees, she quietly 
stored away beneath the soil those wonderful carboniferous 
treasures for the use and comfort of man at the proper time. 
The increased demand for coal has, in many portions of the 
state, led to improved methods of mining, so that in many 
counties the busmess has become a lucrative and important one, 
especially where railroads furnish the means of transportation. 
The coalfield of the state embraces an area of at least 20,000 
square miles, and coal is successfully mined in about thirty 
counties, embracing a territory larger than the state of Massa- 
chusetts. Among the most important coal producing counties 



IOWA LEAVES. '-^y 

may be mentioned Appanoose, Boone, Davis, Jefferson, 
Mahaska, Marion, Monroe, Polk, Van Buren, Wapello, Lucas 
and Webster. Within the last few years many discoveries of 
new deposits have been made, and counties not previously 
numbered among the coal counties of the state are now yielding 
rich returns to the miner. Among them may be mentioned the 
counties of Boone, Dallas, Hamilton, Hardin and Van Buren. 
A vein of coal of excellent quality seven feet in thickness has 
been opened, and is now being successfully worked about live 
miles southeast of Fort Dodge, in Webster county. Large 
quantities of coal are shipped from that point to Dubuque and 
the towns along the line of the Dubuque & Sioux City railroad. 
A few years ago it was barely known that some coal existed in 
Boone county, as indicated by exposures along the Des Moines 
river, and it is only within the last few years that the coal-mines 
of Moingona have furnished the vast supplies shipped along the 
Chicago & Northwestern railroad, both east and west. 

The great productive coalfield of Iowa is embraced chiefly 
within the valley of the Des Moines river and its tributaries, 
extending up the valley from Lee county nearly to the north 
line of Webster county. Within the coalfield embraced by this 
valley deep mining is nowhere necessary. The Des Moines and 
its larger tributaries have generally cut their channels down 
through the coal measure strata. 

The coal of Iowa is of the class known as the bituminous, 
and is equal in quality and value to coal of the same class in 
other parts of the world. The veins which have so far been 
worked are from three to eight feet in thickness, but we do 
not have to dig from i,ooo to 2,000 feet to reach the coal, 
as miners are obliged to do in some countries. But little coal 
has in this state been raised from a depth greater than 100 feet. 



30 IOWA LEAVES. 

BUILDING STONE. 

There is no scarcity of good building stone to be found 
along nearly all the streams east of the Des Moines river, and 
along that stream from its mouth up to the north line of Hum- 
boldt county. Some of the counties west of the Des Moines, as 
Cass and Madison, as well as most of the southern counties of 
the state, are supplied with good building stone. Building stone 
of peculiarly fine quality is quarried at and near the following 
places: Keosanqua, Van Buren county; Mt. Pleasant, Henry 
county ; Fairfield, Jefferson county ; Ottumwa, Wapello county ; 
Winterset, Madison county; Fort Dodge, Webster cou.ity; 
Springvale and Dakota, Humboldt county; Marshalltown, Mar- 
shall county; Orford, Tama county; Vinton, Benton county; 
Charles City, Floyd county; Mason City, Cerro Gordo county; 
Mitchell and Osage, Mitchell county; Anamoca, Jones county; 
Iowa Falls, Hardin county; Hampton, Franklin county, and at 
nearly all points along the Mississippi river. In some places, as 
in Marshall and Tama counties, several species of marble are 
found, which are susceptible of the finest finish, and are very 
beautiful. 

LIME. 

Good material for the manufacture of quicklime is found 
in abundance in nearly all parts of the state. So abundant is 
limestone, suitable for the manufacture of quicklime, that it is 
needless to mention any particular locality as possessing 
superior advantages in furnishing this useful building material, 

LEAD. 

Long before the permanent settlement of Iowa by the 
whites, lead was mined at Dubuque by Julien Dubuque and 
others, and the business is still carried on successfully. From 



IOWA LEAVES. 31 

4,000,000 to 6,000,000 pounds of ore have been smelted annually 
at the Dubuque mines, yielding from 68 to 70 per cent, of lead. So 
far as known, the lead deposits of Iowa that may be profitably 
worked are confined to a belt four or live miles in width along 
the Mississippi above and below the city of Dubuque. 

GYPSUM. 

One of the tinest and purest deposits of gypsum known in 
the world exists at Fort Dodge in this state. It is confined to 
an area of about six by three miles on both sides of the 
Des INIoines river, and is found to be from twenty-five to thirty 
feet in thickness. The main deposit is of uniform gray color, 
but large masses of almost pure white (resembling alabaster) 
have been found imbedded in the main deposits. The quantity 
of this article is practically inexhaustible, and the time will 
certainly come when it will be a source of wealth to that part 
of the state. 

SPRING AND WELL WATER. 

As before stated, the surface of Iowa is generally drained 
by the rolling or undulating character of the country, and the 
numerous streams, large and small. This fact might lead some 
to suppose that it might be difficult to procure good spring or 
well water for domestic use. Such, however, is not the case, 
for good pure well water is easily obtained all over the state, 
even on the highest prairies. 

It is rarely necessary to dig more than thirty feet deep to 
hnd an abundance of that most indispensable element, good 
water. Along the streams are found many springs breaking 
out from the banks, affording a constant supply of pure 
water. As a rule, it is necessary to dig deeper for well w^ater 
in the timber portions of the state than on the prairies. Nearly 



32 IOWA LEAVES. 

all the spring and well waters of the state contain a small pro- 
portion of lime, as they do in the eastern and middle states. 
There are some springs which contain mineral properties, 
similar to the springs often resorted to by invalids and others 
in the state. In Davis county there are some "salt springs,^' 
as they are commonly called, the water being found to contain 
a considerable amount of common salt, sulphuric acid and 
other mineral ingredients. Mineral waters are found in differ- 
ent parts of the state. No one need apprehend any ditiiculty 
about finding in all parts of Iowa an abundant supply of good 
wholesome water. 

EARLY SETTLEMENTS. 

"The first white men who are known to have set their feet 
upon the soil of Iowa were James Marquette and Joliet, in 1673, 
as is seen in another part of this work. It was 115 years after 
the visit of these celebrated French voyageurs before any white 
man established a settlement, during which time several genera- 
tions of the Indian tribes occupied the valleys of the beautiful 
rivers of Iowa, or roamed over her broad prairies. During all 
this time they doubtless kept alive among them the tradition of 
the strange black-robe chief and his pale-faced companions, 
who came in their canoes to see their fathers so many years 
before. It was likewise a Frenchman — Julien Dubuque — who 
had the honor of making the first white settlement. 

"In 1788, having obtained permission from the Indians, he 
crossed the Mississippi with a small party of miners for the pur- 
pose of working lead mines at the place where the city is now 
located which bears his name, the lead having been discovered 
a short time before by the wife of Peosta, a Fox warrior. Du- 
buque was a native of France, but had emigrated to Canada and 







INDIAN AT HOME. 



34 IOWA LEAVES. 

become an Indian trader. While engaged in that business he 
reached Prairie du Chien, about the year 1785, and with two 
other Frenchmen laid out a village which now constitutes the 
northern part of that city. 

"Except the mining settlement at Dubuque, the first traces 
of the white man in Iowa are to be found in Lee county. On 
March 30, 1799, Louis Honore Fesson obtained permission 
of the Spanish government to establish himself at the head 
of the rapids of the river Des Moines for the purpose of 
trading with the Indians. The place was at this time occupied 
by a half-breed Indian named Red Bird, but known among the 
whites as Thomas Abbott. Subsequently the town of Montrose 
was located on the ground where Fesson had his trading post 
and Red Bird his wick-e-up. Settlers of a later day have felt 
much interest in the existence here of some full-grown apple 
trees, which must have been planted by some hand long before 
the Black Hawk war. It has been claimed by some that they 
were planted by Fesson as early as the beginning of the present 
century. Hon. D. W. Kilbourne, one of the early settlers of 
Lee county, claimed that they were planted by Red Bird some 
time between the years 1795 and 1798. ^Ir. Kilbourne was 
personally acquainted with Red Bird, as well as with Black 
Hawk and other noted Indians of the Sac and Fox tribes, and 
from them he received what he believed to be an authentic 
account of the origin of the 'ancient apple orchard' at Montrose. 

"It was the custom of the Indians once a year to visit St. 
Louis for the purpose of obtaining supplies of blankets and other 
articles. The half-breed Red Bird, then a young man, made 
his customary pilgrimage in the early spring, and on his return 
stopped a few days at St. Charles on the Missouri river. There 
a white man made him a present of about twenty small apple 



IOWA LEAVES. 35 

trees, and gave him instructions how to plant them. Red Bird 
carried the trees home with him, and planted them near his 
wick-e-up, placing stakes around them. Nearly all of them 
grew, and remained to excite the wonder and curiosity of suc- 
ceeding generations of white men. 

"In 1809 a military post was established where Fort 
Madison is now located, but of course the county was not 
open to white settlers until after the 'Black Hawk Purchase.'" 

The first settlement made at Burlington and in the vicinity 
was in the fall of 1832. Daniel Tothero came with his family 
and settled on the prairie about three miles from the Mississippi 
river. About the same time Samuel White with his family 
erected his cabin near the river at what is known as the Upper 
Bluff, within the limits of the present city of Burlington. 

This was before the extinction of the Indian title, for that 
did not take place before January i, 1833, when the govern- 
ment acquired the territory under what was known as the 
"Black Hawk Purchase." There was then a government mili- 
tary post at Rock Island, and some dragoons came down from 
that place during the next winter and drove Tothero and White 
over the river, burning their cabins. White remained in Illinois 
until the first of the following June, when the Indians surren- 
dered possession of the "Black Hawk Purchase," and on that 
very day was on the ground and built his second cabin. His 
cabin stood on what is now Front street, between Court and 
High streets, in the city of Burlington. Soon after Mr. White's 
return his brother-in-law, Doolittle, joined him, and in 1834 they 
laid out the original town, naming it Burlington for the 
town of that name in Vermont. Thus White and Doolittle 
became the Romulus and Remus of one of the leadinor cities 
of Iowa. 



36 



IOWA LEAVES. 



"During the year 1834 settlements were made at various 
points, besides those mentioned, in what are now the counties 
bordering on the Mississippi river, and soon other settlements 
began to extend to the western limit of the "Black Hawk Pur- 
chase." The first postoffice in Iowa was estabhshed in Dubuque 
in 1833. Milo H. Prentice was appointed postmaster. 




GOING TO CHURCH IN IOWA IN EARLY DAYS. 

"The first justice of the peace was Antoine Le Claire, 
appointed in 1833 as 'a very suitable person to adjust the diffi- 
culties between the white settlers and the Indians still remaininsf 



IOWA LEAVES. 37 

there.' " The first Methodist society in the territory was formed 
at Dubuque on May i8, 1834, and the first class-meeting was 
held June i of that year. 

The first church bell brought into the state was in March, 
1834. 

The first mass of the Roman Catholic church in the terri- 
tory was celebrated at Dubuque in the house of Patrick Quigly 
in the fall of 1833. 

The first school-house in the territory was erected by the 
Dubuque miners in 1833. 

The first Sabbath-school was organized at Dubuque early 
in the summer of 1834. 

The first woman who came to this part of the territory 
w^ith a view to permanent residence was Mrs. Noble F. Dean 
in the fall of 1832. 

The first family that lived in this part of Iowa was that of 
Hosea T. Camp in 1832. 

The first meeting-house was built by the Methodist Epis- 
copal church at Dubuque in 1834. 

The first newspaper in Iowa was the Dubuque Visitor^ 
issued May ii, 1836. John King — afterward Judge King — 
was editor, and William C. Jones, printer. By the year 1836 
the population had increased so that the people began to 
agitate for a separate territorial organization. There were also 
several other matters in which they were deeply interested. In 
November, 1837, a convention was called at Burlington to take 
action. 

"On Monday, November 6, 1837, ^ convention of dele- 
gates from the several counties in that portion of Wisconsin 
territory west of the Mississippi river, then sometimes called 
Western Wisconsin, convened in the town of Burlington. 



38 IOWA LEAVES. 

Among the principal purposes for which this convention was 
called were: (i) To memorialize congress for the passage of an 
act granting the right of pre-emption to actual settlers on 
government lands; (2) To memorialize congress on the sub- 
ject of the attempt then being made by the state of Missouri 
to extend her northern boundary line so as to embrace territory 
claimed as being a part of Wisconsin; (3) To memorialize 
congress for the organization of a separate territorial govern- 
ment in that part of the territory of Wisconsin west of the 
Mississippi river." 

Westward the course of empire takes its way; 

The four first acts already past, 
A fifth shall close the drama with the day — 

Time's noblest offspring is the last. 

It is less than half a centur}^ since the uncivilized aborigines 
roamed the prairies wild and free, unfettered by the restraint of 
common or statutory law, and uncircumscribed by township 
boundaries and county lines. The transformation which has 
taken place in the physiognomy of the country alone is beyond 
the comprehension of the finite mind — luxuriant groves where 
was the wide-stretching prairie; cultivated fields where was 
the primeval forest; orchards, vineyards and gardens where 
waved the tall prairie grass. So marked has been the change 
in the physiognomy of the country that there has been a decided 
change in the climatology. The elements themselves seem to 
have taken notice of the great change, and have governed 
themselves accordingly. While the annual rainfall and the 
mean annual temperature remain the same in quantity, they are 
now entirely different in quality, and although imperceptible and 



IOWA LEAVES. 39 

independent of man's will, they have nevertheless come under 
the same civilizing power which has changed the wilderness 
into a fruitful land. 

Whoever has made it a business to study the " Great 
Northwest," as it has unfolded itself in history during the last 
quarter of a century, has doubtless met with ever-recurring sur- 
prises. The story of its unparalleled growth and almost 
phenomenal development has so often been repeated that it has 
become a commonplace platitude; but a careful study of the 
country will suggest questions which have thus far not been 
answered, and cannot be. 

Wh}', for instance, have some sections filled up so rapidly, 
and certain cities sprung up as if by magic, while others, seem- 
ingly no less favored by nature, are still in the first stages of 
development ? These questions cannot in all cases be answered; 
but whoever has studied the matter carefully cannot fail to have 
discovered a law of growth which is as unvarying as any law of 
nature. The two leading factors in the problem of municipal 
growth are location and character of first settlers. 

The first settlers of Iowa who remain still remember the 
Mormons who first located across the Mississippi river and then 
in the western part of Iowa, created such an excitement among 
the scattered settlements of Iowa. Several of the most worthy 
of the early settlers became converts to that faith, and went 
west with the "Saints." It is not generally known, however, 
that a special effort was made for the conversion of Chief 
Keokuk. 

While residing at Ottum-wah-nac, Keokuk received a 
message from the Mormon prophet, Joseph Smith, in which the 
latter invited Keokuk, as king of the Sacs and Foxes, to a 
royal conference at his palace at Nauvoo on matters of the 




CHIJiK KKOKUK. 



IOWA LEAVES. 41 

highest importance to their respective peoples. The invitation 
was accepted, and at the appointed time the king of the Sacs 
and Foxes, accompanied by a stately escort on ponies, wended 
his way to the appointed interview with the great apostle of the 
latter-day saints. Keokuk, as before remarked, was a man of 
good judgment and keen insight into human character. He 
was not easily led by sophistry or beguiled by flattery. The 
account of this interview with Smith, as given by a writer in 
the "Annals of Iowa," so well illustrates these traits of his 
character that we give it in full: 

"Notice had been circulated through the country of this 
diplomatic interview, and quite a number of spectators attended 
to witness the denouement. The audience was given publicly in 
the great Mormon temple, and the respective chiefs were 
attended by their suites, the prophet by the dignitaries of the 
Mormon Church, and the Indian potentate by the high civil and 
military functionaries of his tribe, and the Gentiles were com- 
fortably seated as auditors. 

" The prophet opened the conference in a set speech of 
some length, giving Keokuk a brief history of the children of 
Israel, as detailed in the Bible, and dwelt forcibl}' upon the 
history of the lost tribes, and that he, the prophet of God, held 
a divine commission to gather them together and lead them to 
a land 'flowing with milk and hone}'.' After the prophet closed 
his harangue, Keokuk waited for the words of his pale-faced 
brother to sink deep into his mind, and in making his reply 
assumed the gravest attitude and most dignified demeanor. 'He 
would not controvert anything his brother had said about the lost 
and scattered condition of his race and people, and if his brother 
was commissioned by the Great Spirit to collect them together 
and lead them to a new country, it was his duty to do so.*' 



42 IOWA LEAVES. 

" But he wished to inquire about some particulars his 
brother had not named that were of the highest importance to 
him and his people. The red man was not much used to milk, 
and he thought they would prefer streams of water; and in the 
country they now were there was a good supply of honey. The 
points they wished to inquire into were whether the new, 
government would pay large annuities, and whether there was 
plenty of whisky. 

"Joe Smith saw at once that he had met his match, and 
that Keokuk was not the proper material with which to increase 
his army of dupes, and closed the interview in as amiable and 
pleasant a manner as possible." 

According to the stipulations of the treaty of 1836, in which 
the Indians ceded to the United States Keokuk's reserve, the 
illustrious chief removed to the west, and his headquarters for 
a time were in Wapello county. The agency for the Indians 
was located at a point where is now located Agency Cit3\ At 
this time an effort was made to civilize the red man. Farms 
were opened up and two mills were erected, one on Soap creek 
and one on Sugar creek. A salaried agent was emplo3'ed to 
superintend these farming operations. Keokuk's farm was 
located upon what is yet known as Keokuk prairie in Wapello 
county. 

Wapello, the contemporary of Keokuk, and the inferior 
chief, after whom a neighboring county and county scat were 
named, died before the Indians were removed from the state, 
and thus escaped the humiliation of the scene. He, like his 
superior chief, was a fast friend of the whites, and wielded an 
immense influence among the individuals of his tribe. He 
presided over three tribes in the vicinity of Fort Armstrong 
during the time that frontier post was being erected. In 1839 



IOWA LEAVES. 43 

he removed his village to Muscatine swamp, and then to a place 
near where is now located the town bearing his name. Many 
of the early settlers of the country remember him well, as the 
southern part of this county was a favorite resort for him and 
many members of his tribe. It was in the limits of Keokuk 
county that this illustrious chief died. Although he willingly 
united in the treaty ceding it to the whites, it was done with the 
clear conviction that the country would be shortly overrun, and 
his hunting ground ruined by the advance of pale-faces. He 
chose to sell rather than to be robbed, and then quietly receded 
with his band. Wapello died in Keokuk county in March, 
1844. As provided in the terms of the treaty, he had retired 
beyond the Red Rock line early in 1843, and at the time of his 
death he was visiting some of the most favorite localities in the 
country, which but a year before he had relinquished. 

A Mr. Romig who for some time lived near the place 
where Wapello died, delivered an address before a historical 
society, in which he gives the following pathetic account of the 
last days and death of the illustrious chief: 

"As the swallow returns to the place where last she had 
built her nest — cruelly destroyed by the ruthless hands of some 
rude boy — or as a mother would return to the empty crib where 
once had reposed her innocent babe in the sweet embrace of 
sleep, and weep for the treasure she had once possessed, so 
Wapello mourned for the hunting grounds he had been forced 
to leave behind, and longed to roam over the broad expanse 
again. It was in the month of March ; heavy winter had begun 
to shed her mantle of snow ; the sun peeped forth through the 
fleeting clouds; the woodchuck emerged from his subterranean 
retreat to greet the morning breeze, and all nature seemed to 
rejoice at the prospect of returning spring. The old chief felt 



44 



IOWA LEAVES. 



the exhilerating influence of reviving nature, and longed again 
for the hunting excursion to the scenes of his former exploits. 




'^^^^■^i^> 





INDIANS HUNTING THE BUFFALO. 

But, alas! the poor old man was not long destined to mourn 
over his misfortunes. While traveling over the beautiful 



IOWA LEAVES. 45 

prairies, or encamped in the picturesque groves that he was once 
wont to call his own, disease fastened upon his vitals, and the 
chief lay prostrate in his lodge. How long the burning fever 
raged and racked in his brain, or who it was that applied the 
cooling draught to his parched lips, tradition has failed to inform 
us, but this we may fairly presume, that his trusty followers 
were deeply distressed at the sufferings of their chief, whom 
they loved, and administered all the comforts in their power to 
alleviate his sufferings; but all would not avail. Grim death 
had Qrossed his path, touched an icy finger to his brow and 
marked him for his own. Human effort to save could avail 
nothing. Time passed, and with it the life of Wapello." 

Keokuk, Appanoose and nearly all the leading men among 
Indians were present at the funeral, which took place toward 
evening of the same day upon which the body arrived at the 
agenc}'. The usual Indian ceremonies preceded the interment, 
after which the remains were buried by the body of General 
Street, which was in accordance with the chieftain^s oft-repeated 
request to be buried by the side of his honest pale-faced friend. 
Poweshiek, the chief of the Fox Indians, who, as before men- 
tioned, lived on Skunk river, is described as tall, heavily 
built, of rough cast of features, and a disposition full of exaction 
and arrogance. When he left Fort Des Moines for the last 
time he went south, and encamped temporarily in the southern 
part of the state. His village, which consisted of about forty 
lodges, was located on Grand river, not far from the settlements 
of northern Missouri. A difficulty soon arose between the 
Missourians and tlie Indians, and there was every reason to 
suppose that the trouble would terminate in bloodshed. When 
the report of the difficulty came to Fort Des Moines, three 
persons — Dr. Campbell, J. B. Scott and Hamilton Thrift — who 



46 IOWA LEAVES. 

had been intimately acquainted with Poweshiek, desirous of 
preventing bloodshed, mounted their horses and proceeded to 
the Indian encampment. This was during the winter of 1845 
and 1846. Everything in and about the Indian village had a 
warlike appearance. 

Mr. Scott sought an early interview with Poweshiek, and 
spoke to him as follows: 

" My friends and myself have traveled through the snow a 
long distance to help you out of this trouble. We are your 
friends. If you persist in your purpose of making war on the 
whites, many of your squaws and pappooses, as well as 3'our 
braves, will be butchered. The remainder will be driven out 
into the cold and the snow to perish on the prairies. It would 
be better now for you to break up your lodges and go in peace 
to your reservation in Kansas, which the government has pro- 
vided for you." 

The old chief was at first unwilling to accept this advice, 
and his principal reason in not doing so was that his conduct 
would be construed into an exhibition of cowardice. He, how- 
ever, finally concluded to accept the proffered advice, and in a 
short time removed beyond the Missouri river. 

One of the most affable and remarkable of the Indians with 
whom the early settlers became acquainted was named Kish-ke- 
kosh. It was in honor of him that Marion county was at first 
named, it being afterward changed on account of the many 
objections which were raised to the orthography of the word. 

This Kish-ke-kosh previous to 1837 was simply a warrior 
chief — was inferior to the village chief, to which distinction he 
afterward attained. The village presided over by this chief is 
well remembered by many of the early settlers. It was located, 
some say, just over the line in what is now called White Oak 



70ir.4 LEAVES. 47 

township, Mahaska county. Major Beach thus describes it: 
"The place cannot be located exactly according to our state 
maps, although the writer has often visited it in Indian times, 
but somewhere out north from Richville, and probably not 
twelve miles distant, on the banks of Skunk river. Not far 
above the forks of Skunk was a small village of not over fifteen 
or twenty lodges, presided over by a man of considerable im- 
portance, though not a chief, named Kish-ke-kosh. The village 
was on the direct trail ; in fact, it was the converging point of 
two trails from the Hardfish village, and the three villages 
across the river below Ottumwa, to the only other prominent 
settlement of the tribe, which was the village of Poweshiek, a 
Fox chief of equal rank with Wapello, situated on the Iowa 
river." 

Here the squaws, after grubbing out hazel brush on the 
banks of the stream, unaided by plow or horse, planted and 
tended patches of corn. Here the men trained their ponies, 
hunted, fished and loafed until May, 1843, '^^''^^''^ they moved to 
the vicinity of Fort Des Moines. 

PIONEER LIFE. 

"All the experience of the early pioneer of this state goes 
far to contirm the theory that, after all, happiness is pretty 
evenly balanced in this world. They had their privations and 
hardships, but they had also their own peculiar joys. If they 
were poor, they were free from the burden of pride and vanity; 
free, also, from the anxiety and care that always attend the pro- 
cession of wealth. Other people's eyes cost them nothing. If 
they had few neighbors, they were on the best of terms with 
those they had. Envy, jealousy and strife had not crept in. A 
common interest and a common S3'mpathy bound them together 




SQUAWS GUARDING THE CORN. 



IOWA LEAVES. 49 

with the strongest ties. They were a world to themselves, 
and the good feeling that prevailed was all the stronger 
because they were so far removed from the great world 
of the east. 

"Among these pioneers there was realized such a com- 
munity of interest that there existed a community of feeling. 
There were no castes, except an aristocracy of benevolence, and 
no nobility, except a nobility of generosity. They were bound 
together with such a strong bond of sympathy, inspired by the 
consciousness of common hardship, that they were practically 
communists. Neighbors did not even wait for an invitation or 
request to help one another. Was a settler's cabin burned or 
blown down, no sooner was the fact known throughout the 
neio:hborhood than the settlers assembled to assist the unfortu- 
nate one to rebuild his home. They came with as little hesita- 
tion and with as much alacrity as though they were all members 
of the same famil}', and bound together by ties of blood. One 
man's interest was every other man's interest also. Now, this 
general state of feeling among the pioneers was by no means 
peculiar to this country, although it was strongly illustrated 
here. It prevailed generally throughout the entire west during 
the time of the early settlements. The very nature of things 
taught the settlers the necessity of dwelling together in this 
spirit. It was their only protection. They had come far awa}' 
from the well-established reign of law, and entered a new 
country where the civil authority was still feeble, and totally 
unable to afford protection and redress grievances. Each man's 
protection was in the good will and friendship of those about 
him, and the thing any man might well dread was the ill will of 
the community. Such were some of the early characteristics of 
the early settlers of Iowa." 



50 



IOWA LEAVES. 



HOUSES AND HOME COMFORTS. 

The first buildings in the state were not just Hke the log 
cabins that immediately succeeded them. These latter required 
some help and a good deal of labor to build. The very first 
buildings constructed were a cross between "hoop cabins" and 
Indian bark huts. As soon as enough men could be got together 
for a "cabin raising" then log cabins were in st3'le. Many a pioneer 
can remember the happiest time of his life as that when he lived 
in one of those homely, but comfortable and profitable, old cabins. 
A window with sash and glass was a rarity, and was an 
evidence of wealth and aristocracy which but few could support. 
They were often made with greased paper put over the window, 

which admitted a little 
light, but more often 
there was nothing what- 
ever over it, or the 
cracks between the 
logs, without either 
chinking or daubing, 
was the dependence for 
light and air. The 
doors were fastened 
with old-fashioned 
wooden latches, and for 
a friend or neighbor or 
traveler the string al- 
ways hung out, for the 
pioneers of the west were hospitable, and entertained visitors 
to the best of their ability. 

It is noticeable with what affection the pioneers speak of 
their old log cabins. It may be doubted whether palaces ever 




A PIONEER CABIN. 



IOWA LEAVES. 



51 



sheltered happier hearts than those homely cabins. The follow- 
ing is a good description of these old landmarks, but few of 
which now remain: 




IOWA HOME IN EARLY DAYS. 

"These were of round logs notched together at the corners, 
ribbed with poles and covered with boards split from a tree. A 
puncheon floor was then laid down, a hole cut in the end and a 



52 IOWA LEAVES. 

Stick chimney run up. A clapboard door is made, a window is 
opened by cutting out a hole in the side or end about two feet 
square, and it is finished without glass or transparency. The 
house is then 'chinked' and 'daubed' with mud made of the 
top soil. 

"The cabin is now ready to go into. The household and 
kitchen furniture is adjusted, and life on the frontier is begun in 
earnest. 

"The one-legged bedstead, now a piece of furniture of the 
past, was made by cutting a stick the proper length, boring 
holes at one end, one and a half inches in diameter, at right 
angles, and the same sized holes corresponding with these in 
the logs of the cabin the length and breadth desired for the bed 
in which are inserted poles. 

"Upon these poles clapboards are laid, or lind bark is 
interwoven consecutively from pole to pole. Upon this primi- 
tive structure the bed is laid." 

The convenience of a cook stove was not thought of then,, 
but instead the cooking was done by the faithful housewife in 
pots, kettles and skillets on and about the big fireplace, while 
the legal sovereigns of the household were indulging in the 
luxury of a cob pipe, and discussing the probable results of a 
contemplated elk hunt up and about "Spirit lake." These log 
cabins were not so bad after all. 

In giving the bill of fare above we should have added meat, 
for of this they had plenty. Deer would be seen daily trooping 
over the prairie in droves of from twelve to twenty, and some- 
times as many as fifty would be seen grazing together. Elk 
were also found, and wild turke3'S and prairie chickens without 
number. Bears were not unknown. Music of the natural order 
was not wanting, and every night the pioneers were lulled to 



IOWA LEAVES. 53 

rest by the screeching of panthers and tlie hbwHng of wolves. 
When the dogs ventured too far out from the cabins at night 
they would be driven back by the wolves chasing them up to 
the very cabin door. 

Rough and rude though the surroundings may have been, 
the pioneers of Iowa were none the less honest, sincere, hospita- 
ble and kind in their relations. It is true, as a rule, and of uni- 
versal application, that there is a greater degree of real 
humanity among the pioneers'of any country than there is when 
the country becomes older and richer. If there is an absence 
of refinement, that absence is more than compensated for in the 
presence of generous hearts and useful lives. They are bold, 
courageous, industrious, enterprising and energetic. Generally 
speaking, they are earnest thinkers, and possessed of a diversi- 
fied fund of useful, practical information. As a rule, they do 
not arrive at a conclusion by means of a course of rational rea- 
soning, but nevertheless have a queer way of getting at the 
facts. They hate cowards and shams of every kind, and above 
all things falsehoods and deception, and cultivate an integrity 
which seldom permits them to prostitute themselves to a narrow 
policy of imposture. 

Such were the characteristics of the men and women who 
pioneered the way to the country of the Sac and Fox Indians. 
Many of them yet remain, and, although as a general thing 
they are among the wealthiest and most substantial of the peo- 
ple of the country, they have not forgotten their old-time hospi- 
tality and free-and-easy ways. In contrasting the present social 
affairs with pioneer times, one has well said: 

"Then, if a house was to be raised, every man turned out, 
and often the women too, and, while the men piled up the logs 
that fashioned the primitive dwelling-place, the women prepared 



54 IOWA LEAVES. 

the dinner. Sometimes it was cooked by big log fires near the 
site where the cabin was building. In other cases it was pre- 
pared at the nearest cabin, and at the proper hour was carried 
to w^here the men were at work. If one man in the neighbor- 
hood killed a beef, a pig or a deer, ev^ery other family in the 
neighborhood was sure to receive a piece. 

"We were all an equality. Aristocratic feelings were 
unknown, and would not have been tolerated. What one had 
they all had, and that was the happiest period of my life. But 
to-day if you lean against a neighbor's shade tree he will charge 
you for it. If you are poor and fall sick, you may lie and suffer 
almost unnoticed and unattended, and probably go to the poor- 
house; and just as like as not the man who would report you to 
the authorities as a subject of county care would charge the 
county for making the report*." 

Of the old settlers some are still living in the state in the 
enjoyment of the fortunes they founded in early times, "having 
reaped an hundred-fold." Others have passed away, and many 
of them will not long survive. Several of them have gone to 
the far west, and are still playing the part of pioneer. But, 
wherever they may be and whatever fate may betide them, it is 
but truth to sa}' that the}' were excellent men as a class, and 
have left a deep and enduring impression upon the state of 
Iowa. 

There is a tide in the affairs of men 
Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune, 
Omitted, all the voyafre of their life 
Is bound in shallows and in miseries. 



PART SECOND 



IOWA LEAVES 



ENTERPRISE AND PROGRESS. FOUNDING OF 

STATE INSTITUTIONS, ETC. HISTORY OF 

THE GREAT FATHER OF WATERS. 

BOATING IN EARLY DAYS, 



CHAPTER II. 



ENTERPRISE AND PROGRESS. 



The spirit of enterprise may be said to be common to our 
people, and is a characteristic worthy of notice. The circum- 
stances of the nation have both produced and developed this 
feature to American society. The original settlers of Iowa 
were in many instances prompted by a spirit of adventure. 
They were a bold and enterprising race, and it is not strange 
that their descendants should inherit a portion of the same 
spirit. In general, also, the emigrants from foreign countries, 
who have since made their homes on our shores, have brought 
with them a similar characteristic. 

Indeed, it is common only for the most active and fearless 
spirits in any nation to be willing to break up their attachments 
to kindred and country and home, and try their fortunes in a 
different and distant region of the globe. Necessity, rather 
than choice, has doubtless driven many, especially of late years, 
to the land of abundance without the requisite diligence or skill 
to procure it, but this class is not as yet so numerous as to 
effect any essential change in the enterprising turn of the 
American population. The circumstances of a new country 
like our own almost unavoidably give a prominence to active 
and adventurous life. The case is very different here from 
what it is in the old and full-grown countries of the eastern con- 
tinent. In the latter the institutions of society are nearly at a 
stand, and there is little room for expansion and enlargement, 

57 



58 IOWA LEAVES. 

consequently the spirit of enterprise is less known in that por- 
tion of the globe — there is less occasion and less scope for it. 
Here, however, everything is in a developing and forming state; 
changes are continually going on; the institutions of society are 
not fully established. There is no aristocrac}' ; there are no 
primogenitures to fix the condition of rank and of property; the 
consequence is the character, fortune and the comfort of life 
eminently depend on personal effort and enterprise, to say noth- 
ing in this place of their early and terrible conflicts to which 
they were exposed, from a variety of other causes, the fact 
alone that they have filled a wild and boundless country with 
the arts and institutions of civilized life shows an indomitable 
spirit of exertion and perseverance. We also justly attribute 
to the people a large share of personal independence and resolu- 
tion. Both natural and moral causes have conspired in produc- 
ing such traits of character, such as the extent and rugged 
features of our soil, the purity and brightness of our skies and 
the invigorating character of our climate. Among the moral 
causes producing traits of personal independence and resolution 
may be mentioned the objects sought in the early settlements 
of our countr}', the hardships to which the early settlers were 
subjected, their frequent contests with natives, the predominance 
of the agricultural interests, which are intimately connected 
with competence and independence, the facility of finding 
employment and of acquiring property and the various institu- 
tions, civil and religious, by which our nation is distinguished — 
these causes, especially the last named, have combined to 
produce a noble elevation of the public mind. They have, 
moreover, the characteristic distinction of being an intelligent 
and educated people. The intellectual character of our native 
citizens compares favorably with that of other nations. It has, 



IOWA LEAVES. 59 

indeed, the same essential traits; the strong EngHsh good sense 
is predominant. The capacity for mechanical invention and 
improvement is perhaps still greater. For their efforts of 
genius there is a wide field in this country, and the spirit of 
enterprise is highly favorable to tlieir developments. The 
rewards of intelligence and ingenuity are well calculated to 
stimulate the gifted minds of our countrymen to exertion. 
They who are fitted by education and knowledge for situations 
where these endowments are wanted, and they are wanted for 
every station, can find full profitable employment. It is not 
here as in the confined, overgrown countries of Europe, and 
doubtless will not soon be, considering the extent of our domain, 
that almost every branch of business, intellectual or mechanical, 
is in a state of surfeit. Here the field for enterprise, directed 
by intelligence, is almost unlimited. Looking to our natural 
presence as a state, \\q surely need not be ashamed of ourselves 
in its soil and in its scenery — need not even hide our heads before 
the titled guests from foreign countries. Our prairies, our 
meadows, beautiful forests and lovely rivers and fields of yellow 
grain need not apologize for asking the "lords of the British 
Isles "to look upon them. Of the fruits of our soil also, we 
have no reason to be ashamed. We believe, too, that we are 
less wasteful of our natural resources than before, and from 
what we can learn and see it is obvious that our people are 
learning and practicing the fundamental principles of good hus- 
bandry, and making great advances in the sciences and arts of 
manuring, draining and all the branches of horticulture and 
agriculture, while our prairies and forests are being peopled 
with an industrious race, and the land cheered with thriving 
farms, cities and villages. The old states have been rejuvenated, 
and the last few years have brought a wonderful transformation 



60 IOWA LEAVES. 

to all our rural districts, especially to those in the vicinity of 
our great cities and villages. Perhaps our business affairs never 
looked better than at present, and any intelligent American who 
observes what is now doing in our villages and cities, the enter- 
prise at work in producing and transforming and exchanging 
the products of the soil, cannot but take to himself some share 
of the self-respect that belongs to a people so laborious and so 
intelligent. The sense of prosperity comes home to a great 
number of our people who may seem little active in promoting 
it, and hundreds and thousands of quiet citizens have capital 
invested in coal mines, railroads, manufactories and all kinds of 
industries that enrich us as a state. Other marks of prosperity 
we have that rise into intellectual and moral grandeur, and the 
schools, charitable asylums and churches that are covering our 
state may well give us a new sense of worth that is even more 
important than wealth. Constant industry and rich lands have 
rewarded the farmer with bountiful crops and full barns; there- 
fore, good farm-houses have been built all over the state. Work 
is sweet to him who sees that he is to reap where he has sown, 
and when the farmer of Iowa drives his strong plowshare 
through the tough sod and turns up the fat black soil, he enjoys 
his labor, for his mind's eye sees those lands waving with yellow 
grain which he is sure to reap. 

Our readers well know, too, that cities do not make them- 
selves, but are built up with hard, persistent and determined 
effort, and that besides unwearied labor something is owing to 
circumstances which no man can foresee. In all the glowing 
places in our land there is a large investment in machinery, 
tools, workshops and steam power, and these cities in our state 
are not places where men buy and sell and get gain, but are 
also great beehives, where are being produced a thousand 



IOWA LEAVES. 61 

things which civilized people now demand; but let us refer to the 
open secret of the whole matter, and let no man forget it. Out 
of the bosom of the beautiful earth comes all the wealth, and he 
who digs it makes money, not he who sits in his banking house 
and with greased measure measures gold and wheat; he may 
get the money, but the other makes it and ought to have it. 
Behind our cities and villages there spread away these broad 
acres of fertile lands, upon which grow the waving fields of 
yellow wheat and of corn, of which millions of bushels are 
sent forth to feed the people of the old world as well as the new, 
and the beef and pork and coal industries, without which 
bankers and merchants would perish and leave no sign. Honor, 
glory and praise and profit be to the stalwart souls and bodies 
in Iowa who produce. 

The people who composed the first colonies of Iowa were 
great lovers of progress, and watched the rapid innovations of 
the coming settlers with great satisfaction. The value of land 
was thus enhanced a hundred-fold. A great many people living 
in the east at that time had an impression that this part of the 
country was an entire wilderness hardly redeemable. How few 
indeed can have any conception of the rapidity with which it 
has been settled.'^ Civilization pursues one as a remorseful con- 
science does a fugitive criminal. If any " New Yorker" or any 
denizen of the now cramped-up eastern states is inclined to 
doubt, let him travel our broad expanse, and he will find that 
the wild beast does not make his lair in every timber tract, nor 
the Indian claim his sovereignty undisputed. Their occu- 
pation is gone. The wild deer and bear have also disappeared, 
and work is irksome to the noble savage. Those living here 
now see the red race almost extinct; they possessed our country 
at one time, but left no marks upon its histor}', and are 



62 IOWA LEAVES. 

remembered as a curiosit} of the past rather than as a part of 
the development of manhood. 

Iowa is also one of the most delightful countries in the 
world, possessing a genial climate, a fertile soil, abounding in 
all those natural resources whose development and use con- 
stitute the true wealth of a state. Her beautiful forests, lovely 
rivers and extended prairies offer at the same time a rich and 
varied feast to the romantic traveler. Her annals, although 
they might now be considered within the memor}^ and experi- 
ence of a single life, are swelled with many a page wherein the 
statesman and philosopher may find food for thought and theme 
for speculation; they furnish us the records of a people who 
have won a fair heritage by their courage, have cultivated it 
with industry and governed it with wisdom ; a people who 
have fought their own battles, plowed their own soil and made 
their own laws. We may also find names — familiar as house- 
hold words — of men, types of their race, sustained by native 
force alone, who have led the way in war and in peace, and 
attained the highest distinction in the camp and in the cabinet, 
whose fame, too large for the narrow limits of state, now 
belongs to our national history. In the first settling of Iowa 
we might have discerned the Indian and the red deer, but their 
feet have departed; the sound of the warwhoop and the ring of 
the rifle have given place to the clip of the ax and the shriek 
of the steam whistle. The laughing water turns the busy mill 
and the cry of the wild drake is hushed by the hum of civ- 
ilization. 

The mud-chinked cabin of the pioneer settler, initiated 
from the handiwork of a Daniel Boone, has given place to 
elegant villas designed by a Downing or a Vaux. Strangely 
contrasting with the simple garb and manner of the olden time, 



IOWA LEAVES. 63 

we meet everywhere with the hixur}- and poHsh of modern 
refinement. There are great industries scattered here and there 
all over our great state, and long, long ago old folks began to 
shake their heads at the new-fangled institutions springing up 
every day in our land. Let us go back to the early school days 
of Iowa and the old log school-house, where our forefathers 




LOG SCHOOL-HOUSE. 

acquired the rudiments of learning and experience — the incipient 
sorrows of knowledge. These log houses were built either on 
open prairies or under the shadows of native timber, rude log 
pens, floored with puncheons, with a single opening which 
served as a door, but entirely without windows or chimneys. 
In the center of the room was a hearth formed of stones and 
earth. When in winter a huge log tire blazed and fumed, the 



6t IOWA LEAVES. 

smoke, when not blown into the eyes of the scholars, rose and 
gathered in a cloud under the high-pitched roof, and escaped 
through the wide crevices at the eaves. Ranged in a hollow 
square around the fire were the scholars, who sat on rough- 
hewn benches conning their well-thumbed primers or blue- 
backed spelling-books with vociferous diligence. The school 
was divided into three classes, big bo3's, little boys and girls, 
and presided over by an Irish schoolmaster, who wore a pair 
of goggles, and maintained his state on a split-bottomed throne 
with scepter of hickory — tough timber and far-searching. In 
these wigwams of science, deep hidden in primeval forests or 
on smooth, open prairies, the children of the first settlers of Iowa 
acquired an education. Those days have long since gone by, 
and we look to-day upon hundreds of magnificent monuments 
of learning scattered all over our great state, equipped with all 
the modern improvements, where the children of Iowa to-day 
are instructed in all the different grades of learning, arts, 
science and literature. 

The state of Iowa was originally known as the "Black 
Hawk Purchase," and many people in the far eastern countr}', 
even beyond the Alleghany mountains in Virginia, caught the 
adventurous spirit or "Black Hawk" fever, and migrated to 
these sparsely-settled regions. Their ancestors were pioneers 
of that hardy, stony, clear-minded race who settled the Shenan- 
doah valleys, Virginia, and the Cumberland and Monongahela 
valleys of Pennsylvania, who built up their churches, improved 
their homes and with a missionary enterprise ventured farther 
on. These early pioneers of Iowa were types of the frontier 
settlers who sought the comforts of home life, the society of 
friends and the culture of the mind rather than wealth, and, though 
living in Iowa when speculations might have made them rich, 



IOWA LEAVES. 



65 



wilh opportunities to get large fortunes, chose simplicity of 
life, and the greater portion of them passed away without a 
dollar in their possession. These noble pioneers came to the 
state when a mere colony, lived in it while a territory and dur- 
ing all its great and wonderful growth are among those of the 
past who live only in the tradition of their friends. 

Iowa scarcely well preserves 
the memory of her frontiersmen 
and pioneers, or is it because 
each living generation rather 
loves the present than the past.^ 

The versatile Chief Justice 
Joseph Williams, in his day a 
man of wonderful versatility; 
Judge Jonathan Hall, strong, 
clear and honest in his convic- 
tions and in his life, with his 
brother Augustus, who had a 
brilliant imagination and logical 
mind — fine powers as an orator; 
Gillespie, with great natural sense 
and mother wit; Corse, Carpenter, Negus and the venerable 
Judge Jeffries, among the early and enterprising pioneers, are 
no more. The versatile genius, Gen. Morgan, or ''Little Red," 
who so long ranked at the head of the editorial profession in 
the state, with his friend. Gov. Lucas, who came with the 
author's father. Col. Robt. Robinson, from the valley of the 
Scioto to Iowa, are living links in the history of the first 
settling of this great state. 

Gen. A. C. Dodge, the great orator and statesman, and 
minister to Spain during the early administration of our countr}-,. 




COL. RORT. ROBINSON. 



66 



IOWA LEAVES. 



who held many offices of trust in the general and stjite govern, 
ments — kind, hospitable, charitable, courteous and liberal in 
everything — is also numbered among the brave and noble pio- 
neers of Iowa who sleep to-day in our silent cities of the dead. 
Whether they be considered in regard to mind or heart, 
no country ever had a braver, happier or more hospitable or 
more enlightened people than were the hrst settlers of Iowa, 

Who, like the snowflake on the river, 
A moment here, then gone forever; 
Or hke the boreahs race 
That flits ere you can point the place; 
Or like the rainbow's beauteous form, 
Vanishing amidst the storm. 

It is befitting our theme in speaking of the early days of 
our state that a brief allusion be made to the great Father of 

Waters, which marks her 
eastern boundary and sepa- 
rates her from the state of Illi- 
nois, as the first white settle- 
ments made in the state were 
along its banks. We will not 
dwell at great length upon the 
facts of its discovery, which 
are generally understood, or 
which may be found in our 
standard histories, which tell 
us that the gallant and roman- 
tic De Soto had the honor of 
discovering the great river in 
the year 1538, almost 400 
3'ears ago. The next discovery was made from an entirely 
different quarter, and was prompted by different motives. 




GEN. A. C. DODGE. 



IOWA LEAVES. 67 

We allude to its discover}- and exploration by Marquette 
and Joliet, who were the tirst to explore the river. Upon 
the results of this exploration the destiny of states and 
nations has been influenced if not controlled. It is worthy of 
special notice that the present generation were not the first pio- 
neers of this beautiful region. On the contrary, the oldest 
inhabitants simph' came to live in a country first unveiled to 
the gaze of the world by the dauntless heroism and disinterested 
religious zeal of James Marquette. He and his companion 




MARQUETTE AND JOLIET 
ENTERING THE MISSISSIPPI 



Joliet were undeniably the first white men who ever trod the 
soil of Iowa. Space forbids, interesting as the excursion would 
be,^to follow step by step the progress of their voyage along 
the shores of Iowa. The mere outlines and meager details 
which we give are taken wholly from "Marquette^s Original 
Narration," a most interesting book. 

They first entered the Mississippi at the place where 
MacGregor, la., now stands. It seems at that time that 



68 IOWA LEAVES. 

numerous Indian villages were scattered along the banks of the 
river at this place, whose inhabitants were friendly with Mar- 
quette, and did their best to dissuade the undertaking of explor- 
ing the river. "They told me," says Marquette, "that we 
would meet nations that never spare strangers, but tomahawked 
them without provocation; that they were at war with each 
other, which would increase our danger; that the great river 
itself was full of perils, of frightful monsters, which swallowed 
up men and canoes; that it contained a demon that ingulfed all 
who dare approach, and, lastly, that the excessive heat would 
infallibly cause our death." Disheartened.^ no, not he. "I 
thanked them for their kind advice, but assured them I could 
not follow it." So the voyagers entered the great Mississippi 
near the city of MacGregor on June 7, 1763. The}' were not 
molested in the least, and traveled along in their birch canoes 
for nearly 2,000 miles, and saw no human being until June 25. 
They saw footprints of men by the water's side, and a path 
leading up through a beautiful prairie. They concluded to stop. 
This path was rightly conjectured to lead to an Indian village. 
Singly and alone Marquette and Joliet resolved to pursue the 
path, and to assume the peril of meeting a barbarous and 
unknown people, who were in those days the only inhabitants 
of these regions now bearing the name of Iowa. Following 
the path some five or six miles they discovered three Indian 
villages, somewhat separated, on the banks of a beautiful river, 
the name of which Marquette does not give, but on his map he 
indicates the course of the river, and gives the names of two of 
these villages, viz. ; Pe-wa-re and Moin-gue-na. The site of 
these villages cannot with certainty be ascertained, but the 
name favors the conjecture that the river was the river Des 
Moines in southeastern Iowa, and probablv wns. Marquette 



IOWA LEAVES. 



69 



and JoHet advanced undiscovered so far that they even heard 
the Indians talking. In order to show them that they intended 

no surprise or harm, they halted 
and by a loud cry announced their 
presence. Strange meeting that 
first one on Iowa soil between the 
amazed Indians and their unknown 
visitors; wild and strange the cere- 
monies which characterized it and 
illuminated it with a wild and 
strange splendor. 

They are received in warm 
welcome and in peace; their course 
becomes a splendid ovation. The 
savages depute four of their oldest 
men to meet and receive them, and 
two of the deputies bear aloft the 
gaily-adorned calumet of peace. All 
four advance silentl}- but slowly 
with stately, barbarous dignity. 
Indian-like, as an earnestness of 
peace, they present their visitors 
with the mysterious pipe. They 
invite them to their city and tender, 
with sincerity and warmth, its rude 
hospitalit}'. Arriving at the village, 
all the people turned out to gaze at 
them, when Marquette briefly spoke 
of the object of his mission (for they 
used a dialect of the Algonquin 
INDIAN PEACE PIPES. lauguagc with which he was famil- 




70 IOWA LEAVES. 

iar) — "Of the one God of the great French captain who had 
subdued the Iroquois, their ancient enemies." Speech-making 
on such occasions and in those da3's would not seem to be a 
civilized ceremony. The sachem of the tribe, rising to reply, 
spoke as follows, a speech which, though never noticed as 
such, is one of the finest specimens of Indian eloquence: "I 
thank the black gown (alluding to Marquette) and the French- 
man (addressing Joliet) for taking so much pains to come and 
see us. Never has the earth been so beautiful nor the sun so 
brisfht as now. Never has the riv^er been so calm nor so free 
from rocks, which your canoes have removed as they passed. 
Never has our tobacco had so fine a flavor, nor our corn appeared 
so beautiful as we behold it to-day. Ask the Great Spirit, whom 
thou knowest, to give us life and health, and come thou and 
dwell among us." What a magnificent speech for the first one 
ever made on Iowa's rich soil over 200 years ago. Following 
this a great feast was spread before the strangers, which in his 
glowing style, disdaining particulars, Ban Croft describes as a 
"magnificent festival, prepared of hominy and fish, with the 
choicest viands from the prairies of Iowa." Let us consult the 
faithful and unexaggerated account of Marquette, and see the 
style and "bill of fare'' of this "magnificent festival," the first 
meal ever sat down to by white men upon the western side of 
the Mississippi river in Iowa. " This feast," says Marquette, 
"consisted of four courses, which we had to take with all their 
ways. The first course was a great wooden dish of sagamity, 
that is to say, of Indian meal, boiled in water and seasoned with 
grease. The master of ceremonies, with a wooden spoonful of 
sagamity, presented it several times to my mouth as we would 
to a little child; he did the same to Joliet. For the second 
course he brought in another dish containing three fish, removed 



IOWA LEAVES. 



71 



the bones, and having blown on it to cool, put it into my mouth 
as we should feed a bird. For a third course they produced a 
large dog (as an Indian can give no higher mark of his friend- 
ship than to sacrifice his faithful companion) which they had just 
killed, but learning that we did not eat dog it was finally 
withdrawn. The fourth course was a piece of wild buffalo, the 
fatted portion of which was put into our mouths." This is the 
style and "bill of fare" of the first meal ever served to the white 
race within whnt is now the borders of one of the greatest states 
of the Union. 







INDIAN CANOE. 



After remaining in these regions for several days, 600 
Indians accompanied Marquette and Joliet to their boats, and 
they embarked, following the current, and soon passed the 
boundaries of what is now the great state of Iowa. 

"Do the departed look down upon us.'* We love to 
imagine that as these vo3'agers passed along the shores of the 
great river in the majestic solitude of nature, they listened, and, 



72 IOWA LEAVES. 

listening, heard the busy tramp of the coming milhons, and had 
visions of the commonwealths that have so marvelousl}' arisen 
along the banks of the great river that they were the first to 
explore. They founded no cities, they left no permanent 
physical monuments behind them, yet a generous posterity will 
not willingly let their names perish. So long as the river flows 
it will water their memories, and preserve them fresh and 
green." 

This great river and its countless tributaries in Iowa are 
ours, its babbling fountains, springs and waterfalls, brooks and 
streams are indisputably ours. It is fortunate for Iowa that 
this magnificent river flows along its borders and the great 
state itself has passed into our hands. 

Only two generations or more have passed awa}', and see 
the results. Great and flourishing cities and villages line its 
banks from its source to its mouth. Civil and religious libert}', 
science, literature, religion, art, education and educational 
institutions — all that can adorn or bless a state or a nation — have 
here found a home. What is there anywhere in all the 
records of our race so remarkable as to be compared with the 
marvelous growth and development of the Mississippi valley, of 
which Iowa has a large share. One of the peculiar features 
connected with this great river in the early settlement of our 
state was the ''flat boat" which plied the river, built of gun- 
wales and planks, some loo feet long and thirty broad, and 
square at the ends, familiarly known as "broad horn." Some 
were roofed over, others were left open, and carried the loads 
of giants. On every tributar}' these arks were constructed 
through the summer and fall, ready to do their work when the 
hour should come, and then m3riads of corn-fields, large and 
small, poured their crops together in these "broad horns," and 



IOWA LEAVES. 73 

were swept downward by stream to eastern and southern 

markets. Those are a thing of the past, and ha\e given place 

to rapid transportation on the iron rails. Numerous cities have 

grown up along the banks of this great river in Iowa, which 

will interest the traveler and speculator — Dubuque, Davenport. 

Muscatine, Clinton, Burlington and Keokuk. Some of them 

are large cities, furnished with paved streets, electric and cable 

cars, warehouses piled with merchandise, manufactories, and 

one might fancy portions of New York and Chicago had been 

transplanted as they stood. All these have done much and 

promise to do more, and active, determined men do not fear to 

build mills and hotels, railroads and rapid transit car lines and 

factories, being sure of good returns. The interior cities of our 

state — Cedar Rapids, Des Moines, Ottumwa, Waterloo, Iowa 

City, ]\Iarshalltown, Oskaloosa, Iowa Falls, Vinton, Anamosa, 

West Liberty, ]Mt. Pleasant, Fairfield, Pella, Charles City, Sig- 

ourney, Knoxville, Atlantic, Red Oak, Chariton, Osceola, Cres- 

ton. Corning, Centerville, Shenandoah, Clarinda and hundreds of 

others — are filled chuck full of an enterprising class of citizens, 

who work hard for the upbuilding of their cities and the 

country surrounding them. Council Bluffs and Sioux City, on 

the banks of the great Missouri in the extreme western part of 

the state, are noted for their enterprise and push. Both are 

rapidly improving, and are a surprise to the traveler passing 

through the western portion of our state. 

The report of the treasurer of the state of Iowa shows that 
her financial condition is better now than it has ever been. The 
total assessed value of taxable propert}- at present is $522,- 

567477- 

The reports of the various state institutions give a fair 
account of the work done by them. All are in excellent condi- 



74 



IOWA LEAVES. 



tion, and are performing with a large measure of efficiency the 
parts assigned them, respectively, whether educational, eleemosy- 
nary or reformatory. First is the Hospital for the Insane at 
Mt. Pleasant, which is well managed; the discipline among 
the employes is excellent, and complaints on the part of patients 
are exceedingly rare. The second Hospital for the Insane is 
located at Independence. The farm connected with this hos- 
pital contains 580 acres of land, whicli not only furnishes health}' 




THE INSTITUTION FOR FEEBLE-MINDED CHILDREN 



employment for a large number of male 
patients, but also promises to reduce to 
a considerable extent the cost of supporting the institution. 
The trustees in their last report have asked for an appro- 
priation of $10,000 for an electric light plant. The elec- 
tric light is giving excellent satisfaction in the state institutions 
where it is in use. The new Hospital for the Insane at Clarinda, 
in Page county, which was completed in 1888, is one of the 
best equipped hospitals in the state. The report of the visiting 
committee bears witness to the good management of this hos- 
pital. They speak very highly of the quantity and quality of 



IOWA LEAVES. 75 

food served and clothing provided for the patients, of the care 
bestowed upon the sick and infirm and of the excellent sanitary 
condition of all these institutions. 

The institution for the feeble-minded children at Glenwood, 
in Mills county, is w^ell worthy of notice. It ist he object of the 
state to afford the largest opportunity possible for the improve- 
ment of these feeble-minded children, and unremitting attention 
is required on the part of those who have charge of them. The 
brightening and developing mind that responds ordinarih' to the 
efforts of the teacher of the young, and gladdens his heart, is here 
sadly wanting, and there is little to cheer him beyond the conscious- 
ness of faithful endeavor. The results reached in the educational 
and industrial departments of this institution are quite satisfactory, 
and the reports of the trustees and superintendents are worthy 
of careful consideration. The Soldiers' Orphan Home at Daven- 
port is another institution wherein Iowa has been diligent in 
contributing to the mental, moral and physical welfare of its 
inmates with wholesome and abundant food, tender care and 
excellent educational facilities. The benevolent hand of the 
greatest state in the Union is rearing its poor unfortunate 
children to healthy, useful and intelligent manhood and woman, 
hood. It is certainly a wise polic}- that leads to a life of happi- 
ness and virtue these friendless children, who otherwise might 
be doomed to a career of wretchedness and crime, were they 
left to the mercy of a cold and uncharitable world. 

The Soldiers' Home is another interesting^ institution in our 
state. The readiness with which the feeble, crippled and home- 
less soldiers avail themselves of the comforts and facilities of 
this home demonstrates that the twenty-first General Assembly 
acted wisely in establishing this institution. Good fare, clean 
beds, warm rooms, baths and in time of sickness care and atten- 



7(5 IOWA LEAVES. 

tion constitute both a welcome and deserved provision for the 
Union veterans. All reports show that this home is being well 
manasfed. The siirroundino;s of this institution have been beauti- 
fled by the planting of shade trees, by the clearing of unsightl}' 
objects from the grounds and by other improvements, which 
give the place the appearance of a well-kept home. 

The discipline and general management of the State-Prison 
at Ft. Madison has been excellent in every respect, and 
the appropriations made by the late general assembly have been 
expended with care and economy. The number in continement 
June 30, 1889, was ninety-four less than at the beginning of the 
period, and was smaller than at any corresponding time in any 
other year since 1882. Nor was this due to any excessive use 
of the pardoning power. The number of commitments to the 
two penitentiaries in the state for the period was 536. This is 
the smallest number of commitments in any biennial period since 
1873. The reduction in the number of convicts in the prison 
made the expense of supporting and guarding them $13,371.51 
less than during the previous term. 

If the number of prisoners continues to decrease in the same 
ratio in which it has decreased during the last four years. Iowa 
will soon have a prison for sale or rent. 

Another State-Prison is situated at Animosa in the north- 
east part of the state; one ward being devoted entire!}' to the 
use of female criminals, a great improvement being thus effected 
in the facilities of caring for these inmates of the prison. The 
criminal insane show marked physical and mental improvement, 
due to their large, commodious and well-ventilated quarters 
and much outdoor exercise. Better hospital and bath-room 
facilities have also been provided, and the general health of the 
prison has been good. 



IOWA LEAVES. 77 

The Prisoners' Aid Association continues its work for the 
reformation of the criminal. The state is interested not only 
in the punishment of the crime, but also in the career of the 
convict after he has satisfied the law. This association aims to 
make that career a credit to the man and a benefit to society. 

The State Industrial School, located at Eldora, is one of 
our most interesting institutions. The general health of this 
school has been unusually good, and the results of its work 
are spoken of in the highest terms by the trustees. Many of 
the former inmates of this institution are now useful and 
respected members of society, and their lives bear witness to 
the good training which the school affords. This moral 
hospital renders excellent service to the state. 

The report of the superintendent of public instruction, in 
presenting the condition and needs of the public schools, is 
unusually interesting. The school property, number of teachers 
and average school attendance show a considerble increase. The 
number of school children between the ages of five and twenty- 
one is 649,606. The number enrolled in the public schools is 
489,227 and the average dail}' attendance 304,856. The number 
of teachers reported is 25,793 ; the number of schools, 15,611; the 
number of school-houses, 12,897, representing a value of $12,- 
580,345. The permanent school fund amounts to $4,319,442, 
and continues to increase. The averaije monthlv wasfes of male 
teachers is $37.52 and of female teachers $30.87. 

The superintendent states that the law requiring instruction 
in the public schools concerning the effects of stimulants and 
narcotics upon the human system has been observed in nearlv 
every school in the state. This instruction, contemplated to 
fortify the child against the formation of bad habits, promises 
great good to the cause of temperance. 



78 IOWA LEAVES. 

Iowa occupies the enviable position of having the best 
schools and the least number of illiterates, in proportion to 
population, of all the states in the Union, which nothing but the 
greatest vigilance has given her. Our schools will always be 
what we make them; they reflect the will and spirit of the 
people, and rise or fall to their standard. 

The State University at Iowa City is another leading insti- 
tution, which is in an unusually flourishing condition. The financial 
affairs of the institution and the strengthening of the faculty 
have had careful attention on the part of the board of regents. 
The changes made in the several faculties have brought about 
great harmon}- among teachers and students, and develop an 
increasing interest on the part of the latter. 

The educational interests of Iowa are dear to our people; 
therefore, we have an institution worthy of our commonwealth. 
We have an institution where the best facilities for securinof a 
liberal education are provided. The agricultural college at Ames 
is such an institution. The number in the last orraduatino: class 
was forty-five, besides three who took a second degree. This 
is the largest class that has ever left the institution. The 
experiments in horticulture and forestry at this institution con- 
tinue with satisfactory results. It is certainly profitable to our 
people to learn what fruits are, and what are not, adapted to our 
climate and soil. It has been the aim of the management to 
conform to the requirements of the congressional act granting 
the college lands, and to impart instruction in studies pertaining 
to agriculture and the mechanical arts as well as in military 
tactics. 

The State Normal School at Cedar Falls, with 541 pupils in 
attendance, is another very prominent institution in our state. 
A gratifying feature of the growth of this school is found in the 



IOWA LEAVES. 79 

increased number of students in the higher grades. Teachers 
acquire the art of teaching and thorough training, and those 
who enjoy the benefits of normal instruction for even a short 
space of time are better fitted for their work by reason of that 
discipline. The unification of the work of the normal school 
with that of the high school, which was suggested in the reports 
of 1887, has been tried sufficiently to warrant the opinion that 
it increases the usefulness of this institution, and is also of 
advantage to the high schools, adjusting their work to the pre- 
scribed course. While recognizing the great usefulness of this 
institution, we feel that it is only just to make here a due 
acknowledgment of the excellent work which is being done by 
the several private normal schools m the state. Most of these 
enjoy a high degree of prosperity, and their influence is felt in 
almost every school district in Iowa. 

The institution for the deaf and dumb, situated at Council 
Bluffs, is in a prosperous condition, and the health of the 
inmates unusually good. This institution has been very 
prudently managed, and may well be proud of having sent a 
proportionately larger number to the national college for the 
deaf and dumb than an}' other school. 

Great nnportance is justly attached to manual and 
industrial training in the education of the young. This institu- 
tion is lighted by electricity and equipped with all modern 
improvements. 

The colleofe for the blind at Vmton is one of the most 
wonderful and interesting institutions in the state. The total 
enrollment of pupils durmg the term was 206, while the largest 
enrollment at any other time was 177. All but one are natives 
of the United States, and fortv were born in Iowa. The build- 
ing and grounds are in excellent condition. An appropriation 



80 IOWA LEAVES. 

has been made by which the water-works system of the city of 
Vinton will be extended to the college. 

Our national guard consists of six regiments of eight com- 
panies each, with fifty men to each company. They are all 
well uniformed, equipped with improved firearms and all the 
necessary accouterments, and supplied with all necessaries. 
The guard is officered largely by experienced soldiers of the 
civil war, and the rank and file is composed of the best young 
men in the state, who have an earnest desire to learn military 
tactics and art. It is in a high state of discipline, and is pre- 
pared to respond promptly whenever it may be called into 
active service. The encampments during the past two years 
have been unusually successful. For those held last year the 
secretary of war detailed two companies from the regular 
army to encamp with each regiment, which proved of great 
service to both our officers and men. 

The State Horticulture Society is engaged in gathering 
and disseminating information as to the fruits best fitted for 
cultivation in the state, and renders valuable service to our peo- 
ple. Its work fully justifies the small expenditure increased by 
the state on its account. 

The growing interest in the improvement of the breeds of 
domestic animals is evidenced in the proceedings of the Improved 
Stock Breeders' Association. The apparent benefit of feeding 
grain to live stock instead of shipping it out of the state has 
directed attention to the profitableness of improved breeds, and 
almost incredible advancement has been made during the past 
twenty years in the improving of the quality of our domestic 
animals. This association has contributed largel}' to this pro- 
gress. The number and value of live stock in our state in 1889 
were as follows: Horses, 1,053,193, valued at $78,975,376, mules. 



IOWA LEAVES. 81 

47,018, valued at $4,003,124; milch cows, 1,293,095, valued at 
$22,861,880; other cattle, 2,095,253, valued at $42,856,531; 
hogs, 6,750,000, valued at $38,082,500; sheep, 540,700, valued 
at $1,332,559; aggregate value, $189,110,970. 

The work of the dairy commissioners was so well per- 
formed during the period contemplated by the original act for 
its existence that it has been determined to make the office a 
permanent one. While the law does not prohibit the manufact- 
ure and sale of imitation butter or cheese, its practical opera- 
tion has virtually brought about such prohibition. The com- 
missioners' reports show that there has never been a manufac- 
tory of oleomargarine in the state, and there never has been 
issued any federal license for the sale of that article in the forty- 
nine counties constituting the Dubuque internal revenue district. 
The co-operation of the national and state authorities is com- 
plete, and through their combined efforts the sale of simulated 
dairy products has been quite effectually stopped. In the year 

1888 618 creameries produced 41,576,548 pounds of butter. In 

1889 there were 683 creameries, with products 15 per cent, 
larger than those of the previous year. In 1888 there were 104 
factories making 4,406,098 pounds of cheese; in 1889 there were 
164 factories. The estimated value of all butter and cheese 
made at the factories last year is $16,779,235.89. 

The Iowa weather service has completed its twelfth year 
under state auspices. The data gathered by the director during 
many years are of permanent value, and are calculated to dispel 
the erroneous notion concerning violent atmospheric disturb- 
ances in Iowa that are widely entertained beyond our border. 
By sensational newspaper writers in and outside of Iowa the 
people of this country have come to believe that this state is 
overrun in winter, and especially in summer, with tornadoes. 



82 IOWA LEAVES. 

The official and semi-official publication of the signal service 
republished by Iowa papers has confirmed our people in this 
beHef, so that many take fright at the first dark and threatening 
cloud appearing above the western horizon. There can be no 
question that these stories have frightened many eastern people 
out of the purpose of settling in Iowa. 

The tornado at Reading, Pa. (January 9, 1889), was made 
the topic of extended notice in the same style, one of the most 
prominent papers of our state going so far as to frighten our 
people by editorially assuring them that such tornadoes might 
visit Iowa in midwinter, and that it would be wise in winter to 
constantly look out for threatening clouds of this kind; this 
means in plain English that our Iowa people should even in mid- 
winter be in constant fear of danger to life and property b}^ 
the dread tornado. We, therefore, deem it our duty in this 
work to protest against this unwarranted defamation of the cli- 
mate of Iowa and most cruel and unfounded play on the fears 
of our people, and we are astonished to find that a few of the 
papers in the state have indulged in cheap ridicule instead of 
disabusing the minds of our people in regard to the fancied tor- 
nado dangers of Iowa that are keeping away desirable immi- 
grants, and thus contribute to the depression of property in our 
state. Straight-blowing gales occur in almost all parts of the 
world. The inhabitants of any country will have to learn to 
resist the power of these storms. Here in the northwest we 
have such gales or Iowa squalls. There is no need to insure 
against such storms, but rather to use the capitalized insurance 
premium to secure substantial structures. When building our 
architects should learn above all to avoid furnishing every gale a 
special leverage and advantages in broad cornices and other 
projecting fancy ornaments. Wc ought to stop putting up band- 



IOWA LEAVES. 83 

box buildings on our prairies, and adapt our architecture to the 
cHmate of the state we Hve in. But above all we ought no 
longer to till our newspapers with glaring headlines of tornadoes 
and cyclones whenever a moderately fierce straight gale sweeps 
across our prairies and has turned over some of the flimsy struct- 
ures that have been put up more for looks and size than for 
strength and comfort. For this sort of mishap the climate of 
Iowa is not to blame; it is the work of the people themselves. 

Iowa is fast becoming a great manufacturing center and 
every encouragement is being given to investors. By building 
up factories in our midst we do away with the long haul and 
bring the producer and consumer nearer together. We have 
in the past imported too many of the products of eastern mills 
and workshops, and export far too many of the products of our 
farms. Many of these are worked up in other states to be 
returned and retailed within our borders. Our people thus lose 
the price of freight both ways, the earnings of the laborer and 
the protits of the manufacturer and dealer. 

Our courts show a marked improvement in dealing with 
the temperance question in the last few years, nearly all of the 
judges being now disposed to enforce the law whether they are 
in sympathy with it or not. In those counties where the law is 
not enforced the fault lies -almost invariably with the executive 
officers. The constitution provides that the governor shall take 
care that the laws are faithfully executed, and the statutes 
authorize him to suspend any state officer who may neglect 
this duty. But a county officer may willfully neglect his duty, 
and the governor has no power to call him to account. If pro- 
vision were made for the suspending for gross negligence of such 
officers as are charged with the enforcement of the law, and 
ample funds were placed at the command of the governor 



84 IOWA LEAVES. 

to aid prosecution, the saloon would soon be a thing of the past 
in Iowa. 

Divine Providence has certainly been most propitious to the 
people of our state not only during the past few years, but ever 
since Iowa became a state. We have been blessed with beauti- 
ful crops, good health and general prosperity. We have been 
free from all calamity and social disorders, and we have much 
and undisputed evidence of the intellectual and moral advance- 
ment of our people. Iowa capital, which for several years 
sought speculative investments beyond our borders, realizes the 
magnitude and stability of our resources, and is fast returning to 
aid in the building up of our industries and the enhancement of 
our commerce. Schools and colleges are multiplying through- 
out the state, and both church and society stand upon a higher 
plane than ever before. 

We shall endeavor to give our readers descriptions of por- 
tions of our great state and the many natural advantages 
possessed by them. First we will enter the blue grass regions 
of southwestern Iowa and dwell largely on the many beauties 
they contain. 



PART THREE 



SOUTHWESTERN IOWA 



BEAUTIES OF THE BLUE GRASS REGIONS AND BLUE 

GRASS PALACE AT CRESTON, UNION 

COUNTY, IOWA. 



CHAPTER III. 

BEAUTIES OF THE BLUE GRASS REGIONS AND PALACE. 

The great resources of the Hawk-eye state are known far 
and wide, yet to the world there is much to tell of the enter- 
prise of the people who have placed Iowa in the front rank of 
all the states in the Union. In order to tell the story of the 
enterprise of these people in this connection it is necessary to 
go back to the origination of the Blue Grass League of south- 
western Iowa, which has done much, and promises to do more, 
toward the upraising of one of the greatest states in the Union. 

The Blue Grass League w^as organized some three years 
ago at Creston, Union county, by a large number of 
enthusiastic and intelligent citizens of that portion of the 
country, for the purpose of uniting more firmly the interests of 
that beautiful section. The untiring efforts put forth by the 
efliicient officers and members of this organization have been 
crow^ned with success, and the benefits derived therefrom for 
southwestern Iowa have been marvelous. The Blue Grass 
League comprises eighteen of our best counties, which are as 
follows: Appanoose, Wayne, Decatur, Ringold, Taylor, Page, 
Fremont, Mills, Montgomer}', Adams, Union, Clarke, Lucas, 
Warren, Madison, Adair, Cass and Pottawattamie. 

These regions possess a genial climate, good pure water 
and a large supply of native timber and extensive veins of coal, 
while the prairies are dotted with well-cultivated farms, 
which greet the eye of the traveler in every direction, and on 

87 



88 IOWA LEAVES. 

all sides may be seen the evidence of thrift, prosperity and com- 
fort found only in the best farming regions of the state. The 
winters here are mild, considering the latitude, and the sum- 
mers are not especialh' warm. There is an absence of many 
diseases that often render the lower lands peculiarly unhealthy. 




Wheat, oats, corn, rye, barley, millet and flax yield rich 
and luxuriant returns to the husbandman and all kinds of fruits 
and garden vegetables incidental to the latitude can be grown 
in profusion. The peculiar climate and soil of these regions are 
admirably adapted to the growth of tame grasses, and hay from 



IOWA LEAVES. 89 

these regions, wherever known, displaces others in the markets 
of the south and cast. Live stock, especially horses and cattle, 
live and thrive well during ordinary seasons the year round on 
pasturage and hay feeding and from November to April on the 
famed winter blue grass pasture of this section. No country 
under the sun has better drainage or veins of water, the' average 
depth of wells being from twenty-five to thirty-five feet deep. 
Nearly every farm is supplied with good pure water by springs, 
rivers or running brooks, and no country within the limits of 
our continent stands drought so well, and owing to the rolling 
character of the surface of the country crops are little damaged 
by wet seasons. Rarel}' will the traveler find a more mag- 
nificent country, more suggestive of real wealth and prosperity, 
than can be seen on the broad rich prairies of the blue grass 
regions of southwestern Iowa. In rapid succession we pass the 
elegant homes of the industrious farmer, with his fields of 3ellow 
grain and waving corn and large herds of stock grazing on luxuri- 
ant blue grass pasture. There beautiful homes have arisen from 
the rude cabins of the frontier farmer as attractive as any 
in our eastern states, surrounded by fine bearing orchards, 
gardens and all the luxuries known to farm life. Cosy school- 
houses are seen in every district and neat white churches 
with their tapering spires point to the abode of Him who hath 
so richly blessed his children. There is certainly beauty on 
every hand. The wild flowers on the prairies, of a thousand 
different varieties and colors, greet the e3e at every step, and 
even the tiniest foot could scarcely touch the ground without 
crushing the life from some of these emblems of purity. 
These regions are certainly favored spots in Iowa, and those 
seeking homes can find here all that is desirable in climate, 
pleasant, intelligent and prosperous people, good markets, 



90 IOWA LEAVES. 

excellent schools, fine churches, low taxes, fertile soil, pure water 
and a country that produces good average crops every year. 
California may and does possess grand and magnificent mount- 
ain scenery, unsurpassed, I presume, b}'' any in the world, 
together with broad and fertile plains; Idaho, Montana, Nevada 
and Colorado are grand and beautiful in their rugged strength, 
but in none of these can be found scenes of quiet, graceful 
beauty which, by any stretch of imagination, can be ranked as 
equal to those found anywhere in the blue grass regions. 
Nowhere else have we seen vegetation clothed in such brilliant 
colors, and when the surfaces of other lands are bare, parched and 
brown, the transition from thence to these green fields and 
fertile plains unfolds to us almost a new phase of existence. 
These regions are less susceptible to the effects of drought than 
any of the adjoining countries, neither have extremes of wet 
weather as yet caused any severe loss to crops. The great 
abundance of grain, stock, dairy products, coal, stone and native 
timber would not be especially valuable to this country were it 
not for the excellent shipping facilities afforded. The Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy railroad, or Blue Grass route, traverses 
this section entirely from east to west by main line and from 
north to south by numerous branches. No railroad on the 
continent passes through so rich and fertile country as does this 
through the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa. This 
is one of the great natural advantages possessed by this famous 
section of country. The traveler who carefully surveys these 
regions as he passes through them will find that they also con- 
tain many beautiful cities and villages, whose rapid growth is 
largely due to the enterprise of the class of citizens dwelling in 
the towns and surrounding countries. 

The old wooden business houses and blocks in these cities 



IOWA LEAVES. 91 

and villages are being torn down and magnificent brick blocks 
are fast taking their places, and the size and quality of the stock 
of croods carried by the business men are as constantly and 
rapFdly improving, and their schools and churches rank among 
the best in the state; factories are being established in all these 
towns, as the location, railroad facilities, abundance of water 
and cheap fuel are benefits of which manufacturers will take 
advantage, and finally cause them to establish their works in 
these regions, while those already located here are very suc- 
cessful. ^The coal-mining industry in the blue grass regions is 
in better condition at present than at any time since the creat- 
ing of the departments. The ventilation, drainage and general 
security of nearly all the mines in this region have been 
greatly improved!^ The double-entry system and the split-air 
system are rapidly taking the place of the old methods, and con- 
sequently the bad air in mines and other evils are much dimin- 
ished. It is said that the mining law and mine inspection of 
Iowa are second only to Pennsylvania. These mines during the 
past year have enjoyed a splendid trade. Although there has 
been no advance in prices, all things considered, it has been a 
very prosperous year, and the outlook at present is very 
encouraging for the future. We think this can be attributed, to 
a certain extent, to so many new railroads opening up in the 
west, which makes a large market for Iowa coal, and the freight 
rates being more favorable to the west has a tendency to shut 
out competition. 

When we consider that as recently as seventy-five years 
ago in England and Scotland coal was carried to the surface by 
women on their heads; that wheelbarrows or sleds dragged by 
hand or by dogs were used for a long time; that hoisting was 
done by horses in gins or by water-balance shafts; that even 



92 IOWA LEAVES. 

after the introduction of iron rails, until a recent date, horses 
and mules were exclusively employed, all of which could trans- 
port but limited quantities of coal, we can better appreciate 
the great advantages of modern progress in the way of 
machinery, which now brings more coal to the surface of the 
earth in a day than half a century ago was brought in a year. 

The man}' advantages herein enumerated are but a few of 
those possessed by the blue grass regions of southwest lowa^ 
the whole of which can only be known and appreciated by a 
personal inspection or residence in this country, which will bear 
the closest inspection and test, as it is impossible to give more 
than a brief description of the same at this time in this work. 
But those who have lived here for years know whereof we 
speak. We confidently invite the stranger to test the truth 
of our assertions by a personal visit and inspection, knowing 
that he will find the blue grass regions all and more than we 
herein claim for it. 

PEN PICTURE OF CRESTON AND THE BLUE GRASS PALACE. 

Love of nature, that strong feeling of enthusiasm which 
leads to profound admiration of the whole works of creation, 
belongs, it may be presumed, to a certain peculiarity of organi- 
zation, and has no doubt existed in different individuals from 
the beginning of the world. The old poets and philosophers, 
romance writers and troubadours had all looked upon nature 
with observing and admiring eyes. jNIost of them have 
given incidentally charming pictures of spring, of the setting 
sun, of particular favorite spots and of favorite flowers. There 
are few writers of note, of any country or of any age, from 
whom quotation might not be made on this subject ; therefore, 
it will be necessary that the reader should accompany us 



IOWA LEAVES. 93 

through the most romantic country in the world and with us 
gaze on the most subhme picture of the age. We are confident 
that you will be agreeably pleased, delighted and entertained 
in making the journey. Never before had art and nature been 
manipulated with so great genius and skill as was demonstrated 
in the bkie grass palaces of 1889 and 1890. A perfect pano- 
rama of all that is beautiful in art and nature was expressed here 
in all its intensity, and until this work had not been written on 
exclusively. 

Three 3'ears or more ago an idea originated in the Blue 
Grass League of southwestern Iowa, of the creation of a palace 
to be built on the fair grounds at Creston, in Union county, 
being the most central location in the regions, and where each 
of the aforesaid counties, all members of the league, might 
exhibit the products of their soils — a place where people might 
meet together in one grand holiday exposition after the harv^est 
was past and the summer ended. The idea met with the 
approval of all officers and members of the league, and the pal- 
ace was built and thrown open to the public on August 26, 1889, 
and each county in the league occupied a separate booth in the 
very unique structure, where they exhibited all their fruits, 
vegetables, grasses and grains, products of the dairy, wood, 
coal, sandstone, marble and numerous articles from the manu- 
facturing industries throughout the blue grass regions. Here 
was certainly one of the grandest scenes ever witnessed by 
people in any country under the sun. A magnificent structure 
completely covered with all the varieties of grasses and golden 
grains grown in the blue grass regions, manipulated with all 
the beautiful flowers of the fields, the architecture being hand- 
somely wrought in all the novel decorations, giving it a decided 
appearance of those grand old palaces or hanging-gardens of ye 



94 IOWA LEAVES. 

olden times, of which we have often read in the oldest and best 
history of the world. It not only presented an interesting and 
charming appearance, but one of great study as well to a vast 
multitude who gazed upon the sublime beauty and lofty mag- 
nificence of the onl}' original blue grass palace in the world. 

The palace of 1889 proving such a splendid ovation, the 
league decided that the one of 1890 should far surpass in true 
beauty and elegance the one of the year before, so it was enlarged 
to three times the former size and thrown open to the public again 
on August 26, 1890, and the whole world has learned through 
this palace the wonders of the blue grass regions in south- 
western Iowa. 

The front of this beautiful structure, composed entirely of 
the products of the soil, faces the east, and has a total length 
from north to south of 265 feet and is 132 feet wide, the main 
tower in the center of the building being 120 feet high, while on 
the north and south wings are two towers ninety feet high; 
over the main entrance on the east side is another tower 100 
feet in length, which, with several smaller towers, give the 
building a grand appearance, and far surpasses, both in the 
exterior and the interior finish, the one of 1889, and contains 
more than three times the amount of space, giving each county 
in the league just double the room it had the year previous. 
The entire south wing of the new building is devoted entirely 
to a vast auditorium, which seats comfortably 2,000 people. 
Eighteen counties chose their respective booths in the new 
building in which to make their exhibits, the Ottumwa Coal 
Palace Association one, while the Northern Pacific Railroad 
Company chose two, in which to exhibit samples of the excel- 
lent products from the famous section of country along their line 
of road from St. Paul to Puget sound. The remaining booths 



IOWA LEAVES. 95 

were occupied by the District Fair Association witli a most 
interesting display, while numerous business firms of Creston 
occupied large space on the gallery floor. 

This great exposition and industrial exhibit was opened to 
the world at large on August 26, 1890, by Gov. Horace 
Boies, the palace governor of Iowa, with all the pride and 
splendor which all true lowans know so well how to assume. 
The noted Iowa State Band of Des Moines accompanied 
the governor and staff, and discoursed music on this occa- 
sion calculated to stir the innermost depths of the human 
soul. The vast and beautifully decorated auditorium in the 
south wing of the lovely building was filled to overflowing with 
a sea of happy faces, while the handsome galleries above fairly 
groaned beneath the burden of an eager, anxious humanity, 
and, when the highest executive of the greatest state in the 
Union stepped to the front of the large stage so exquisitely 
decorated with all the products of our soil, and looked upon all 
the luxurious grandeur surrounding him, the enthusiasm was 
so great that thousands of handkerchiefs fluttered to the 
breeze, while cheers of greeting went up from the mouths of 
over 4,000 people. Such scenes as were witnessed here on the 
opening day of the palace of 1890 are perhaps only experienced 
but once in a single life, and are certainly grand beyond descrip- 
tion; they must be seen to be appreciated. Scarcely had the 
sweet notes of the beautiful rendition, "Hail to the Chief,'' died 
away when the governor expressed himself as highly delighted 
with the magnificent palace and decorations, wliich were the 
most beautiful and elaborate ever seen on the continent. 
" There is always something new under the sun, and this 
beautiful palace, constructed of the products of our soil, 
demonstrates this fact to our people. This structure is indeed 



96 IOWA LEAVES. 

wonderful to look upon, and all lovers of art and nature are 
both delighted and interested as they gaze upon this great 
monument of industry and enterprise erected by the people of 
southwest Iowa, and by them exquisitely decorated with all 
the products of a rich soil," 

One of the most conspicuous and nov'el features of this 
palace is the royal suspension bridge stretching from north to 
south on the highest portion of the building, twelve feet wide, 
from which a magnificent view of Creston and the beautiful 
surrounding country is obtained; also of the race tracks below, 
on which wonderful records of speed are made every day during 
the exposition. 

Union county being the home of the Blue Grass Palace, 
and also the home of the writer, we will dwell at some length 
on a description of the same and of the city of Creston, her 
county seat and the metropolis of southwest Iowa. Should we 
show any partiality in the description of our own county, we 
hope to be pardoned by our friends living in other portions of 
the state. 

Union county is beautifully situated in the southwestern 
part of Iowa, between Adams and Clarke, while Madison and 
Adair join lands with her on the north, and a county called 
Ringold looks upon her with favor from the south. Creston, 
the county seat, contains over 8,000 inhabitants, and is located 
on the highest crest of land between the majestic Mississippi, 
which marks the eastern boundary of our state, and the great 
Missouri that bounds it on the west, 190 miles west of Burling- 
ton and 1 10 east of Omaha, Neb.; it is also situated on the 
main line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, which 
penetrates the county from east to west by main line, and from 
north to south by branches. 



IOWA LEAVES. 



97 



The country surrounding Crcston is high and undulating, 
with a landscape of great beauty in all directions, while hand- 
some brick blocks adorn the principal streets of the cit}', 
solidly built, denoting great business prosperity. A complete 
system of water-works is in construction, which, when finished, 
will furnish a constant supply of pure water to her inhabit- 
ants. A fine Westinghouse electric light plant furnishes 
incandescent light for lighting streets and buildings, and the 
city has an efficient free delivery system of the mails and one 
of the finest-equipped fire departments in the west. 




LAKE MAURINE, NEAR CKESTON. 

Creston now contains an area of 2,540 acres, with a total 
of eighty-five miles of streets and as much of sidewalks; it has 
a frontage of brick buildings amounting to nearly 3,000 feet, 
which are estimated to be worth about $100,000. There 
is a good system of sewerage established, and miles of water- 
mains leading through the principal streets of the city. The 
railroad tracks and buildings occupy about ten blocks of 



IOWA LEAVES. 



the original plat and mark a dividing line between the north 
and south sides, the business portion of the city lying north 
of the tracks. A handsome court-house was erected on North 




COURT-HOUSE. 



Pine street about one year ago at a cost of $30,000, which is 
an ornament to the city, and one of the finest public build- 
ings in southwestern Iowa. The height to the top of the brick 



IOWA LEAVES. 99 

work is tifty-six feet, and to the tinal ninety feet. The lower 
story is used for auditor, clerk of court, treasurer, recorder, 
sheriff, county attorney and superintendent of schools, and con- 
tains five vaults. There is a double stairway in front, and single 
stairway in the rear leading up to the second floor, where a 
large court-room is located. This room is 36x60 feet, and 
twenty-four-foot ceiling. The council chamber is 1 7x40 feet ; the 
room for grand and petit juries, and private chamber for judge 
of superior court are on this floor. A splendid public-school 
system, of which every true lowan is justly proud, finds a per- 
manent home in Creston and Union county; four commodious 
brick school-houses of three stories each, three frame and 
one new modern high school are found in the city of Cres- 
ton, and no section of country is more favorably located as to 
district schools. The buildings are mostly of frame, with good 
furniture and all the modern appliances for the rapid develop- 
ment of the mind and body. The various religious denomina- 
tions have good church homes both in the city and country. 
No state in the Union has a larger per cent, of intelligence 
among the masses than Iowa, and no county has more people 
who can read and write, and a larger number professing the 
Christian religion according to the population, than Union 
county. The rapid growth of this city is largely due to the 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy shops being located here, which 
employ a great number of men; being also a division station 
large numbers employed in the train service necessarily make 
their homes here, and being the county seat her prospects are 
fine for becoming a large and prosperous city. 

A handsome brick depot with limestone trimmings is in 
contemplation by the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, 
and will no doubt be built next spring. An elegant brick block 

L.ofC. 



lOO 



IOWA LEAVES. 



has just been completed on the corner of Adams and Pine 
streets, one block north of the Union depot, the lower floor of 
which is already filled with business firms, while the upper sto- 
ries are being fitted for the elegant new Ewing hotel, and will 
be opened about March i. This block is known as the Gibson- 
Griffin block, and is one of the finest in southern Iowa; the 




• SCENE LOOKING NORTH ON MAPLE STREET. 

rooms all being new and supplied with elegant furnishings 
make it a preferable resort for the traveling public. Mr. R. E. 
Ewing, the proprietor, is a thorough business man of great 
energy, and has hosts of friends in the blue grass regions of 



JOWA LEAVES. 101 

southwestern Iowa. This hotel, under the management of Mr. 
and Mrs. R. E. Ewing, will be strictly first-class in every 
respect, and, in the selection of help necessary to carry on 
such a hotel, none but competent men and women of large 
experience have been engaged. This hotel is one of the long- 
felt wants of the palace city, and we hope to see it liberally 
patronized by the traveling public. Reader, when you come up 
to Creston to see the blue grass palace of 1891, you will find all 
that is desirable in this hotel, one block north of the depot. 
Creston is prepared to entertain in first-class st3-le all the stran- 
gers who may enter her gates, as the Summit House, corner of 
Adams and Elm streets, is also a fine hotel, three stories in 
height and contains about seventy rooms; it is operated by Mr. 
James Beck, formerly of Fairfield, who understands fully the 
art of catering to the public, having had years of experience in 
the business. This hotel is also first-class in every respect, and 
accommodates a large share of the traveling public. 

The Hotel De Miller on the south side is a well-kept house, 
and during the past year has done a good business; it serves 
excellent meals at very reasonable rates. 

A number of other smaller hotels and private boarding- 
houses are found in the city, and also a number of good res- 
taurants; among the latter is Schorr^s European restaurant, 
recently opened in the new Gibson-Griffin block, one of the 
finest in the state and a place where the most fastidious may go 
and be served with all the delicacies which the season affords. 
Suppers for puplic and private balls and parties are furnished 
on short notice, and everything the epicurean could wish for is 
prepared in style at moderate prices, and meals are served at 
all hours. B. L. Schorr has the finest location in the city and 
certainly deserves the liberal patronage which he receives. 



102 



IOWA LEAVES. 



All the different classes of business necessary to supply 
the demands of regions tributary to a city are carried on in 
Creston and several large wholesale houses have an extensive 




RESIDENCE OF W. F. PATT, 



trade in the city and with many towns in the surrounding 
counties. 



IOWA LEAVES. 103 

GROCERIES. 

The largest retail grocer}' establishment is the firm of 
Scurr & Gotten, located on North Pine, East ^Montgomery 
and West Adams streets. This firm came to the city about 
six years ago, and by the excellent manner in which tlicy 
have dealt with the public have been very successful in busi- 
ness, and have won both fame and distinction in the palace 
city and throughout the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa, 
Scurr & Gotten employ about twenty-five clerks and two expe- 
rienced bookkeepers in the three places of business, paying 
out monthly large sums of money, which circulate in this city. 
The lower store on North Pine and an elegant china hall on 
East Montgomery are under the supervision of Mr. James 
Scurr, while the "West End Grocer}',"'^ on West Adams street, 
is successfully operated by Mr. S. R. Gotten; each grocery has 
a first-class meat market in connection, which makes it very con- 
venient for people to trade with them. Both of these gentle- 
men are first-class, energetic business men, and are certainly 
deserving of the immense trade they receive both in the city 
and country. This firm occupied large space on the gallery 
floor of the blue grass palace of 1S90, with an elegant display 
of groceries, queensware and cured meats, which was greatl}' 
admired by all visitors. 

The next retail grocery of interest in this city is located 
on North Maple street, in merchants' block, is owned and 
operated by Mr. A. P. Munson, and bears the name of the 
"Palace Grocery." Mr. Munson has been a resident of Greston 
for a number of years, and has built up a large trade; he is a 
business man of great merit. He employs five clerks and one 
experienced bookkeeper, and has a complete system of the 
Barr cash carrier in operation. Order and neatness always 



104 



IOWA LEAVES. 



prevail in the Palace Grocery, which is filled with an excel- 
lent stock of goods carried onl}- in a first-class grocery store, 
and there is a well-equipped meat market in connection. 




RESIDENCE OF R. S. KEITH. 



Near the corner of Adams and Maple streets, in the Mal- 
lory block, is located another prosperous grocery store. A sign 
swinging to the breeze reads "M. A. Nye," and we are led to 



IOWA LEAVES. 105 

believe that he may be a brother of ''Bill Nye'' of Boomerang 
fame, but on entering the store and becoming acquainted 
with the genial proprietor we find that, although he bears a 
family resemblance to "Bill/' he is not related. Mr. Nye carries 
a splendid stock of groceries, runs a large bakery in con- 
nection, has long been a resident of Creston and has gradually 
risen to the top rung of the ladder; always courteous and 
pleasant to the public, he has made many friends in Creston and 
throughout southwest Iowa. 

Passing up Adams street on our way to the postofhce we 
notice another retail grocery on the left hand near Elm street. 
The sign reads "Ed W. Graham," and we enter and find 
a large stock of neatly arranged goods on the shelves and 
pleasant clerks ready to wait upon all customers. We are 
informed that Mr. Graham has long been a resident of the 
palace city, while his grocery is one of the old landmarks; he 
has also been chief of the fire department for a number of years, 
and has at all times been highly regarded by the citizens of this 
city for services rendered in that capacity. 

The fifth grocery store is located on Montgomery street, 
between Maple and Pine streets, in the Eagle block. This firm 
is well and favorably known both in the city and country, and 
bears the name of Irwin & Hawk. These gentlemen are among 
the rising young business men of this city, having had much 
experience in the grocery business. Their trade steadily 
increases as the years go by. They carry a full line of every- 
thing known to the retail grocery trade, and the store presents 
an air of neatness and will bear a personal inspection. 

The Pioneer Grocery of Evershed & Cartright, on North 
Pine street, is also worthy of notice; therefore, on our rounds 
we will irivc them a call. We find that Mr. C. Evershed has 



106 



IOWA LEAVES. 



been in the grocery business for many years and that Mr. Cart- 
right has also had years of experience in this line of trade. They 
are both agreeable and first-class business men, and carry a large 
stock of goods, supplying the wants of numerous customers both 
in the city and country. 




SCENE LOOKING WEST ON MONTGOMERY STREET. 

J. W. Waterman of south side fame is an old resident 
of the palace city, and has the honor of having the largest 
retail grocery store in that part of the city, having a fine loca- 
tion on Union street, between Elm and Maple. We find in his 



IOWA LEAVES. 107 

Store a full and complete stock of groceries and queensware, 
from which Mr. Waterman supplies a large trade in the city 
and country. He employs several efficient clerks and one 
experienced bookkeeper, who are always ready to serve the 
public. 

There are numerous other retail grocery hrms in this city, 
all doing a good business, and Creston is certainly well supplied 
in this line of trade. 

DRY GOODS. 

Dry goods is the next class of business largely represented 
in the blue grass palace city, and we boast of having eight 
prosperous firms, active in supplying a large city and country 
trade. The first one which claims our attention is the hand- 
some store of Phil. A. Derr, corner of North Pine and East 
Montgomer}' streets. Mr. Derr carries a mammoth stock of 
goods, seemingly large enough to supply the wants of the whole 
blue grass regions; he has been in the dry goods business in 
Creston since it became an inncorporated village, and is well 
and favorably known throughout the whole of southwest Iowa, 
his trade extending far beyond the limits of his own county. 
The stock of goods carried by Mr. Derr is first-class and com- 
plete in every department and presided over by clerks of long 
experience. ^Ir. Derr employs, in all, about ten clerks and 
one efficient bookkeeper. When our readers come up to the 
blue grass palace of 1S91 it will pay them to look through 
Phil A. Derr's large dry goods emporium, where a cordial 
welcome is extended to all. 

The second dry goods store of interest in this city is that 
of Bennison Bros., on North Maple street. This firm occupies 
a neat two-story red brick building, which is tilled with as tine 



108 IOWA LEAVES. 

a stock of dry goods as is carried in the blue grass regions, and 
uses an excellent system of the Barr cash carrier. The dry 
goods and notions are on the lower floor, while the carpets, 
curtains, oil cloths, rugs and mattings are above. Every 
department in the store is presided over by an experienced 
clerk. Bennison Bros, have been in the dry goods business 
here for a number of years, employ a large force and command 
a fine trade both in the city and country. They also run a 
large establishment in Omaha, Neb. 

Merchants' block on North Maple street contains another 
large dry goods store, which is a well-known one, the proprietors 
having grown up in the dry goods business in the blue grass 
palace city, it being no other than that of Cullen & Bullard, 
who, by courteous and liberal treatment of the piiblic, com- 
mand a very large trade in the city and surrounding country. 
They carry an excellent line of dry goods and notions, curtains 
and carpets, and employ a number of competent clerks and one 
good bookkeeper. The business of this firm has rapidly 
assumed a magnitude of importance second to none in the city. 

A little farther west on Maple street, in the elegant brick 
block owned by Mr. W. N. Kelley, one of Creston's most sub- 
stantial business men, is Kelley's cash bargain store. Mr. 
Kelley occupies the handsome corner room of this building with 
an excellent stock of dry goods, notions, carpets and general 
merchandise, and has been in the business here for years, under- 
standing fully the wants of the public. Mr. Kelley draws a 
large trade to our city from all parts of Union county and from 
large territories tributary to Creston. In the selection of help 
necessary to carry on a general store, Mr. Kelley employed 
none but those fully competent to wait upon the large trade 
which he has built up on strictly upright, honest, business 



IOWA LEAVES. 109 

principles. The Kelley block is three stories in height, and 
one of the handsomest specimens of architecture in the blue 
grass palace city. 

On East Adams street, between Maple and Pine, in the 
Gibson-Griffi'i block, is a general store owned and operated by 
James Griffin, who is one of Creston's substantial merchants. 
This store contains a fine stock of dry goods and groceries and 
general merchandise, and Mr. Griffin^s trade extends over large 
territories of country aside from a large city trade. He is also 
largely identified with the interests of the blue grass palace city, 
and the handsome new block just finished on the corner of 
Adams and Pine streets was built by himself and Mr. John Gib- 
son, Mr. Griffin has also been an efficient member of the 
Creston School Board for a number of years. 

The stock of goods carried by Mr. J. Yeager on North 
Pine street, consisting of dry goods and clothing, is a great 
place for bargains, while Mr. Yeager himself is an old and 
esteemed citizen of Union county, having recently removed to 
Creston from Afton, where he carried on an extensive business 
for years, and still continues to draw a large share of patronage 
from the people of Union county. 

CLOTHING. 

The third class of business largely represented in Creston, 
which is necessary to supply a large trade in the city and 
surrounding territory, is that of clothing. There are eight 
prosperous concerns in the blue grass palace city, which 
carry clothing, hats, caps and gentlemen's furnishing goods. The 
first and largest is that of L. Friend, on North Pine street. 
Mr. Friend, the genial proprietor, came to Creston when the 
town was in its infancy, and has been very prosperous in this 



110 



IOWA LEAVES. 



line of business. Two years or more ago he built the elegant 
brick store which he now occupies, and which is one of the finest 

in southwest Iowa, lighted by 
electricity and heated by steam, 
while the interior finish is of 
hard oiled pine. This handsome 
store is filled with a full and 
complete stock of all the first- 
class goods known to the cloth- 
ing trade and each department 
is presided over by pleasant and 
agreeable clerks. Mr. Friend is 
well and favorably known over 
large territories of country sur- 
rounding Creston and commands 
a tine trade among the people of 
southwest Iowa. 
The second clothing firm is that of Derr & Smith, also lo- 
cated on North Pine street, between Adams and Montgomery. 
These gentlemen embarked in the clothing business about five 
years ago, and, by the excellent manner in which the}^ have 
waited upon the public, now command a large trade in the city 
and surrounding country. Their stock of goods is complete in 
all departments and they employ none but agreeable and com- 
petent clerks to wait upon customers. Derr & Smith are old 
residents of Creston, having been in the dry goods business pre- 
vious to entering the clothing interests of the blue grass palace 
city. 

The third clothing firm is pleasantly located on West 
Adams street, between Elm and Maple, and bears the name of 
the Chicago Clothing Company. This store is under the super- 




CLOTHING STORE OF L. FRIEND. 



IOWA LEAVES. Ill 

vision of Mr. J. L. Ogg, who is a gentleman of more than 
ordinary business abihty. Mr. Ogg came to the blue grass 
palace city about six years ago as manager of the Chicago 
Clothing Company, and since his sojourn here has given excel- 
lent satisfaction, both to the company he represents and the 
public at large in the blue grass regions of Iowa. The stock 
of goods carried by this firm is first-class in every depart- 
ment, and presided over by clerks of large experience in the 
clothing business. Mr. Ogg has made many friends in Creston 
and Union county and his store is always filled with a good 
class of customers. 

The fourth merchant dealing in this line is Col. O. Keefe, 
in the same block as the Chicago Clothing Company, who also 
has a splendid stock of clothing, hats, caps and gentlemen's 
furnishing goods and has a large city and country trade. 

L. Newman, on the corner of Maple and Adams streets, 
has a tine location, and commands a large share of patronage 
both in the city and country. 

Several dry goods merchants in the cit}' carry lines of 
clothing; therefore, this business is certainly well represented 
in the palace city. 

HARDW^ARE. 

The fourth interesting class of busmess which claims our 
attention in this city is that of hardware, and live large stores 
represent this interest. The first is the elegant store of R. S. 
Keith & Co., located on North Maple street, in Merchants' block, 
who carry a mammoth stock of stoves and hardware, wagon 
wood, bar iron and steel. Mr. Keith is one of Creston's most 
successful merchants and has a fine trade. His display of stoves 
and granite ironware on the gallery floor of the blue grass 



112 IOWA LEAVES. 

palace of 1890 was tne wonder and admiration of all visitors 
to the palace. 

James Ferman & Son, who have recentl}' moved into ele- 
gant new quarters in the Mallory block, on Adams street, 
between Elm and Maple, which has just been completed, are at 
home to all their old friends, and also invite all strangers to call 
and look through their elegant stock of stoves, hardware, tin- 
ware and cutlery. Mr. Ferman is one of the most reliable 
business men of the palace city, while his son Charles is among 
the rising young business men of southwest Iowa. 

Chas. Edgerton, on North Pine street, shows a full and 
complete line of everything known to the hardware trade, and 
is a young man of exceptionally fine business ability; he is also 
president of the Iowa State Savings Bank of this city. 

J. H. Patt, on West Adams street, occupies commodious 
quarters in the Opera House block, which he owns, with as 
tine a stock of hardware as is carried in the blue grass resfions. 
Mr. Patt deals also in dump scrapers and agricultural imple- 
ments, is one of the leading merchants of southwest Iowa and 
one of Creston's most esteemed citizens. 

A. R. Fuller carries a fine stock of hardware on North 
Pine street in connection with a large grocery store and com- 
mands a fine trade. 

All of the above firms are composed of energetic business 
men, and all have done much toward the upbuilding of the 
blue grass palace city. 

DRUGS. 

The retail drug business is largely representee] by seven 
different elegant places of business. First is the Summit drug 
store in Summit House block, of which J. W. Bagly has been 



IOWA LEAVLS. 113 

proprietor for a number of years; it has always given exeel- 
lent satisfaction to the pubHc, while the pharmacy lias been 
under the supervision of Mr. Bagly himself, who has always 
taken exceeding pains to please all his patrons in this depart- 
ment. Mr. Bagly has lately purchased the Carpenter block, 
which he expects to occupy in the near future with an excel- 
lent stock of new drugs. 

The second is the drug store of A. B. Henry, on the corner 
of Pine and Adams streets. Mr. Henry occupies handsome 
quarters in the corner room of the elegant new building under 
the Ewing hotel, where he carries an elaborate stock of drugs 
and fancy articles, having recently moved from the south side 
of the city, where he was successful in the same business for 
several years. Mr. Henry looks after the pharmacy depart- 
ment with great skill and is now situated to supply the wants 
of both north and south side residents. 

The next drug store of interest in the palace city is that 
of George Leith, on North Maple street, in the Kelley block. 
Mr. Leith is one of Creston's successful young merchants, and 
carries a large stock of drugs and all goods connected with the 
trade, while the clerks employed are gentlemanly and obliging, 
and the pharmacy is looked after with care bv Mr. Leith 
himself. 

On East Montgomery street, in the Eagle block, is the 
drug store of E. A. Aldrich, which is one of the best in the city, 
filled with an excellent line of drugs and other goods carried 
by the trade. The pharmacy is first-class in every particular 
and presided over by competent prescription clerks. Mr. 
Aldrich has been in the drug business in Creston for a 
number of years, and is one of the leading merchants of the 
palace city. 



114 JOWA LEAVES. 

James Schedeker, on North Pine street, has a cosy store 
and an excellent stock of drugs from which to suDoly the wants 
of his numerous customers. 

BOOTS AND SHOES. 

The boot and shoe business is carried on very extensively 
in the blue grass palace city, and six large stores carry boots 
and shoes exclusively. First is the tirm of A. E. Keith & Son, 
on Adams street, between Elm and Maple, which carries a 
mammoth stock of all goods connected with this line of business, 
its trade extending over all portions of the citv and country 
surroundino^ Creston. 

The second is the tirm of Winhafer & Fields, in the Kelley 
block on North Maple street, which also carries a line line of 
boots, shoes, slippers, etc. Mr. Winhafer was connected with 
the boot and shoe business a number of years previous to his 
entering business for himself tive 3-ears ago, as was also Mr. 
Fields. 

The third is the boot and shoe tirm of Noble & McClure, 
on North Maple street, which carries a spendid stock of goods, 
and low prices have won them a large trade in Creston and 
Union county. 

The boot and shoe store of C. Eckerson, corner of North 
Pine and Montgomer}- streets, in the Pine street Opera House 
block, is another well-stocked store, and carries nothing but tirst- 
class goods. Mr. Eckerson has been identified with the interests 
of the blue grass palace city a number of years, and commands 
a fine trade both in the city and in Union county. 

Thomas McGrath has a neat and cosy store on North Pine 
street, and is certainly deserving of the large patronage he 
receives. Courteous and liberal in all his dealinirs with the 



IOWA LEAVES. 115 



public have been the means of winning him a large trade in 
Creston and the surrounding country. Mr. McGrath is largely 
interested in the palace city and contemplates the erection of 
a handsome brick block during the coming season. 



FURNITURE. 



In all parts of the world and in all cities the manufacture 
and sale of furniture are among the leading enterprises; there- 
fore, this interest is one of the leading lines of business in this 
city. First is the elegant store of Mackemer Bros., on North 
Maple street in Merchants' block, which occupies two floors 
with an excellent quantity and quality of goods. 

J. T. Horton, on North Maple street, also carries a full and 
complete stock of furniture, and is a pleasant and liberal gentle- 
man who understands fully the wants of his customers, and 
one of the successful merchants in the blue grass palace city. 
His trade extends over the entire city and over large territories 
of country surrounding Creston, and he is certainly deserving 
of the large share of patronage he receives. 

The new firm of Elmer Sterner & Company occupies hand- 
some quarters in the Summit House block, two doors west of 
the postoffice, with an elegant stock of furniture, and invites 
the citizens of Creston and Union county to carefully inspect 
the store. The gentlemen who compose this tirm grew from 
boyhood in the palace city, and have the full confidence and 
esteem of all their numerous friends in Creston and Union 
county. We predict for them a prosperous future 

REAL ESTATE AND INSURANCE. 

While real estate is not exactly on the boom in Creston, 
sales are always steady the year round, and many large deals 



116 IOWA LEAVES. 

were made in this line during the past year. Among the 
prominent real estate and insurance agents in the blue grass 
palace city may be mentioned the name of W. F. Patt,who has 
been in the real estate business in this city for a number of 
years, and is one of Creston's most energetic business men, 
always on the alert for something advantageous to his city and 
county. Mr. Patt represents a large business in this line, and 
is alwa3''s ready to show property and tell of Creston's many 
advantages, and is now offering for thirty da3's i,ooo lots for 
sale on easy payments and good time 

The next popular real estate agent is A. H. Spurr, one of 
Creston's rising young business men, who occupies elegant 
rooms in the new Mallory block, on Adams street, between Elm 
and Maple. Mr. Spurr was the leading photographer of south- 
west Iowa for a number of years, but sold out his business about 
two years ago and embarked in real estate, in which he has 
been very successful, having made some very large sales of 
city and country property during the past year. 

J. L. Haverich, in Devoe's brick block, is another promi- 
nent real estate agent who makes numerous sales of city and 
country property, and is a pleasant and agreeable gentleman. 

J.B. Kirch, in Merchants' block on North ]Maple street, is 
one of Creston's successful real estate dealers, and has made 
during the past year many sales of farm and cit}' property. 

Willet & Hitchcock, in the Eagle block, are engaged in 
the real estate business, and are favorably known in Creston 
and Union county, possessing the confidence and esteem of all 
who know them. They represent both city and farm property. 

I. E. Rogers represents a large amount of city and farm 
property in Union county and is a gentleman of unusual busi- 
ness ability. 



IOWA LEAVES. 117 

The Western Land Company, with H. Farley as its presi- 
dent and S. A. Eckerson as its secretary and treasurer, repre- 
sent thousands of acres of improved lands in the blue grass 
regions of Iowa, and millions of acres of improved and wild 
lands in the west, and handle city property on the most 
favorable time payments. 

The Creston Abstract Company, with E. S. Ketcham as 
manager, make a specialty of selling, exchanging and renting 
all kinds of real property. The members of this company have 
been in the business for years and are well versed therein. 

LUMBER AND COAL 

The lumber interests of Creston are largely represented by 
three well-equipped yards, which are as follows: C. S. Rex, on 
the corner of Montgomery and North Oak streets, has a large 
lumber yard, and carries coal and kindling wood in connection. 
Mr. Rex has built up a large trade in the city of Creston and 
in large territories of country tributary, and is an enterpris- 
ing business man. Courteous and liberal treatment of the pub- 
lic has been the means of making him many friends in the blue 
grass regions of southwest Iowa. 

The Gen. Palmer Lumber Company of Red Oak is repre- 
sented in this city by I. W. Richardson, its manager, who 
is a gentleman of large experience in the lumber business, being 
thoroughly posted in every detail connected with it. This com- 
pany handles also large quantities of coal and is located on 
West Adams street. 

C. S. Millard conducts a large lumber yard on Oak and 
Montgomery streets, and handles coal in connection; he is 
numbered among Creston's enterprising merchants, and is also 
a member of the Creston school board. 



118 IOWA LEAVEi:\ 

The coal interest is largely represented in the palace city, 
there being numerous other firms handling coal aside from the 
lumber merchants. The first is that of I. R. Hogaboom, on 
North Pine street, who handles an excellent stock of farm imple- 
ments, and coal in connection. Mr. Hogaboom is one of Cres- 
ton's best citizens and successful merchants, having been in this 
line of business here for years, and commands a large trade both 
in the city and countr}'. 

I. Worthington & Co., in East Creston, handle large quan- 
tities of coal and wood, and are proprietors of a large elevator 
near the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy tracks in that part of 
the city. Mr. R. R. Palmer is the successful manager of this 
firm, who, since his location in Creston, has built up a large 
trade. Mr. Palmer is a business man of rare ability and gives 
excellent satisfaction to all customers who trade with him. 

E. C. Lucas deals extensively in farm implements and coal 
on North Pine street and receives a large patronage from the 
citizens of Creston and Union county. 

F, J. Ta} lor, in West Creston, dealer in grain and seeds, 
handles large quantities of coal in connection, and owns the 
largest elevator in the city, near the Chicago, Burlington & 
Quincy tracks. Mr. Taylor has been closely identified with the 
interests of the blue grass palace city for a number of years and 
has done much toward the upbuilding of the same. His name 
is as familiar as a household word throughout the blue grass 
regions of southwest Iowa, being also well and favorably known 
throughout the states of Illinois, Minnesota, Nebraska, Kansas 
and Missouri, and he was at one time the heaviest grain-shipper 
over the Illinois Central railroad at Chebanse, 111. ; subsequently 
he was one of the largest shippers on the main line of the ''Q."" 
road at Emerson, in Mills county, Iowa, (one of the very richest 



IOWA LEAVES. 



119 



counties in the blue grass regions), from which he shipped 
in one year ..600 cars of corn. In .883 he bu.lt a large ele- 




K. J. TAYLOR. 



vator in the palace city. Mr. Taylor has served four successive 
lerms of office as mayor of Creston, but left no n,arks upon ,ts 



120 IOWA LEAVES. 

history save those of honest, upright, active service. The affairs 
of the palace city were never in better condition than during 
his administration, nor have they been since. In the year 1889 
Mr. Taylor organized the great American Circus, Museum and 
Menagerie, first-class in every department, which he has con- 
ducted for the past two years in a strictly honest and gentle- 
manly manner; during his absence his coal, grain and seed busi- 
ness has been carefully looked after by Mr. Chas. Snyder, who 
has been in Mr. Taylor's employ since 1882 and is one of the 
leading young business men of the palace city. 

Mr. Taylor's record as a first-class business man has been 
clearly demonstrated in the organization of this show, which has 
at all times and in all places been conducted on thorough, honest, 
business principles. In the selection of artists he has been very 
careful in securing the best moral talent the country affords; in 
fact, all his numerous attractions have been selected with taste and 
skill, particularly avoiding anything pertaining to an inferior class. 
The great American Circus, Museum and Menagerie is now in 
winter quarters at Mr. Taylor's elegant home in the palace city, 
and in looking through the stable we tind that his ring stock is 
unsurpassed in the United States. We have the pleasure of 
looking upon the handsomest pure-blooded white Arabian horse 
3'et brought to the United States, the blood of which animal has 
always been sacred to the Arab race. This horse has been 
beautifully trained and is as graceful as a fairy. 

Among the leading attractions in the carnivora are two 
of the finest and largest camels in the world. Samson, the 
towering giant of the Arabian desert, is a noble-looking animal. 
It may be doubted if the people in the west ever overcome the 
impression made upon them by the tirst view of a camel 
equipped and loaded for the desert. Custom al to other 



IOWA LEAVES. 



121 



novelties, affects this feeling, but little; people wherever they 
may be, will stop and wait the passing of the stately brute. The 
charm is not in the tigure, which not even love can make beauti- 
ful, nor in the movement, the noiseless stepping or the broad 
carreer. As is the kindness of the sea to a ship, so is that of 
the desert to a camel. It clothes him with all its mysteries, 
in such a manner, too, that while we are looking at him we are 




thinking of them; therein is the wonder. Its color and height, 
its breadth of foot, its bulk of body, not fat, but overlaid with 
muscle; its long slender neck of swan-like curvature; the head, 
wide between the e3es and tapering to a muzzle whicii a lady's 
bracelet might almost clasp; its step long and elastic, tread 
sure and soundless — all certify its true Syrian blood 



l-'2 



IOWA LEAVES. 



A bold and tierce-looking lion, tlie most fearless of living 
creatures, paces back and forth in his cage, and longs for his 
home in the African forest. The natives of that country, believ- 
ing that the souls of their dead chiefs enter the bodies of these 
animals, into which they also have the power when living qf 
transforming themselves at will, never kill them, and when 
meeting these animals salute them by clapping their hands, a 
courtesy which his highness frequentl}' returns by making a 
meal of them. 

The elephant has always been considered one of the 





ROMEO. 



BEAUTY. 



greatest of living curiosities, and everybody goes to the show, 
of course, to see the "elephant"; therefore, a show without this 
"beautifur' creature would be as nothing to the average 
American. Mr. Taylor has been fortunate in securing one 
of the best that money could buy, and really he is a hand- 
some creature, and well trained to perform all tricks known to 
the elephant family. 

There are many other attractions connected with Mr. 
Taylor's show, but we have neither the time nor space to 



IOWA LEAVEa. 123 

describe them in this work, and will add in conclusion that he 
has traveled over large territories of country during the past 
two years, and the public, the press, the traveling men, the rail- 
road men and, in fact, everybody confirms the report that F. J. 
Taylor's great American Circus, Museum and Menagerie is the 
cleanest and best show traveling in the United States. This 
show, which opens out for the coming season in the palace city 
about April 23 with the finest class of attractions in the world, 
belongs to the long list of leading institutions in the blue grass 
regions of southwest Iowa. 

MANUFACTORIES. 

W. H. Bradford, the genial proprietor of the Creston 
roller mills, controls the largest manufacturing establishment 
in the palace city, the capacity of which is eighty barrels per 
day, and has a full roller system and all the new and improved 
machiner}' methods and processes for manufacturing the finest 
grades of flour; the property is worth $30,000. Mr. Bradford 
is one of Creston's enterprising merchants, and has always con- 
tributed liberall}' of his means to all public undertakings by 
which the city has been benefited. 

Beggs Bros., wholesale manufacturers of wagons, transfer, 
express, truck and all other kinds of business wagons, carriages, 
buggies and road-carts, have one of the most successful manu- 
facturing industries in southwest Iowa, and use all the im- 
proved machinery necessary in carrying on a flrst-class estab- 
lishment. Their capacit}* aside from carriage construction is 
300 wagons a year, which are shipped to all parts of the country. 

The following cut represents a handsome farm wagon 
made by Beggs Bros., which for durability cannot be excelled 
by any other manufacturer of farm wagons in the state. This 



124 



IOWA LEAVES. 



lirrn came to the palace city about two 3'ears ago, and have 
been very successful in this line of business; they employ a large 
force and command a fine trade in Creston and southwest 
Iowa. 

L. D. McClintock, on East Montgomery street, is a tine 
workman of long experience in the construction of carriages, 




wagons and road-carts, and manufactures a good, substantial 
class of goods. 

A large sasn factory on North Elm street, owned and 
operated by J. W. Bartlett, is quite an industry in the palace 
city and turns out sashes, doors, blinds and the other kinds of 
work connected with such a factory. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

The firm of Swan & Becker, dealers exclusively in butter 
and eggs, are conveniently located in West Creston, near the 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, and are well worthy 
of notice, being large buyers, packers and shippers of one of 
the greatest and most profitable industries in the blue grass 
regions. Col. Swan, the proprietor, is an old and highly 



IO\VA LEAVES. ^25 

esteemed citizen of the blue grass palace city, having been one 
of the proprietors of the Summitt House for many years pre- 
vious to entering this business. The trade of this firm reaches 
over the whole of southern Iowa, while large quantities of butter 
and eo-gs are shipped to southern and eastern markets. 

The Creston Gas and Electric Light works are located in 
East Creston, while the office of the manager, Mr. O. Q. Holman, 
who also deals largely in coal, drain tile and sewer pipe, is 
located on North Elm street. ^Nlr. Holman is one of the lead- 
ing business men of the city, having but recently completed the 
ha'ndsome building which he now occupies. 

The firm of Burket Bros., on the corner of Maple and 
Montgomery streets, dealers in artists' supplies and moldings, 
also manuf ucturers of picture frames and window shades, funeral 
directors and embalmers, are the leaders in these lines in the 
palace city. Both of these gentlemen are well and favora- 
bh-' known in Creston and Union county, being greatly in- 
terested in the growth of the palace city, and are building up a 
fine trade in the city and country surrounding Creston. 

jewelkrs. 

There are three first-class jewelry stores in the blue grass 
palace city, and the first is that of J. B. Schanubur, on North 
Pine street, who carries an elegant stock of goods, and com- 
mands a fine trade in Creston and Union county. 

S A Bowers, on North Maple street, is prepared to serve 
the public from an excellent line of jewelry and watches, such 
as is only carried bv a first-class firm. Mr. Bowers has been 
in the jewelry business in Creston for a number of years and 
commands a fine share of trade in the city and country. W. A. 
Woodward, dealer in musical instruments and carrying a full 



126 



IOWA LEAVES. 



Stock of pianos and organs, occupies handsome quarters with 
Mr. Bowers. 

G. H. Daniels, on Adams street, between Elm and Maple 
carries an excellent stock of jewelry and watches ; he is also 




HIGH SCHOOL. 



watch inspector for the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy rail- 
road company at this place. 

There are numerous other interesting and protitabte classes 
of business represented in the palace cit}-, but time and space 



IOWA LEAVES. 



l-^l 



forbid the giving of every advantage possessed by Creston, the 
county seat of Union county and metropoHs of southwest Iowa. 
We will, therefore, hurry on with a brief description of her 
schools and churches. 

The most pretentious school building which has been 
erected in this city is that of the high school on the corner of 
Elm and INIills streets, the site of the old high school build- 
ing. The new structure combines features of various styles of 
architecture, but the characteristic of the Norman predomi- 
nates. The walls are of Kansas City pressed brick, resting on 
a stone foundation, with limestone trimmings. 
The ground plan is about 80x80 feet. The 
building is furnished with the Ruttan system 
of heating and ventilating and Smead's dry 
closet system. The building contains the most 
desirable features found in similar structures by 
a committee of the Creston school board, which 
visited a number of cities for the purpose of 
arranofins: the most commendable 
plans. The result of their work is 
satisfactory to all; cost, $24,000. 

Creston's churches are a source 
of pride to its people, who realize 
that without their influence there 
can be no good, and the substan- 
tial growth in any of the lines of 
commendable progress. 

First is the new Catholic church 
on the south side, of Gothic struct- 
ure, and one of the handsomest in the west; it is built of 
brick with limestone trimmings, and cost, including the 




ST. MALACHV S CHURCH. 



128 



IOWA LEAVES. 



grounas, about $36,000. The congregation of St. Malacliy's 
numbers about 175 families, who reside in and about Creston. 
The Very Rev. Stephen Lyons, O. S. B., of St. Vincent's Abbey, 
Pennsylvania, has charge of the Creston parish. Young, able, 
energetic and of broad education, he has won the hearts of all 
his people. 

The new Congregational church, corner Montgomery and 
Division streets, is a handsome Gothic editice and cost with the 
grounds about $17,000. It has four entrances and the interior is 

splendidly arranged for the various 
needs of the cono^re<ration and beau- 
tifully finished. The rich stained- 
glass windows are an important 
feature of its beauty. The pastor 
is Rev. Allan J. Van Wagner, a re- 
fined and highly educated gentle- 
man, whose talents are far above 
those of the average minister of the 
gospel, and who has done much to- 
ward making his church one of the 
most successful in southwest Iowa. 
The membership numbers about 
300 
The First Methodist Episcopal church, corner of Elm and 
Howard streets, is a fine, commodious building, the style of 
architecture being mainly Gothic. Its walls are of brick, resting 
upon a solid stone foundation, the interior finish being of hard 
southern pine, while the windows are of the finest stained glass. 
The seating capacity is 1,200 and cost $19,000. Rev, C. W. 
Blodget is the present pastor of this church, having been pastor 

nine years ago. Rev 




CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. 



of the same congregation some 



Blodget 



IOWA LEAVES. 



129 



is a universal favorite, not only among liis own people, but with 
all denominations in Creston and southwest Iowa. This ehurch 
has a membership of o\ er 500. 

The First Presbyterian chureh, on West Adams street, 
has one of the finest loeations in the citv; it is built of solid 
red briek masonry, and has a membership of over 200. Rev. 
W. 11. Snyder, the pastor, is a young man of excellent education 
and universally esteemed by the people of the blue grass palace 
city. 

The United Presbyterian church, corner of West Mont- 
gomery and Chestnut streets, is a neat frame building and has 
a membership of over 100. Rev. 
L. N. Lafferty is pastor of this con- 
gregation; he is an able and ear- 
nest worker, and the church, with 
its several societies, is doing good 
work under his pastorate. 

The First Baptist church, cor- 
ner of Maple and ^lills streets, is a p^l 
tine frame edifice, with a congre- 
gation numbering over 150. Rev. 
Powell of Chicasfo has recently be- 
come its pastor and it is very pros- 
perous under his pastorate. 

The Swedish Baptist, corner of North Vine and Mills 
streets, is a neat, white frame, with a membership of about 
sixty. 

The Christian church, corner of Mills and North Elm 
streets, is a cozy frame structure, the congregation of which 
numbers over 200; the accommodations being small for so great 
a number a new church is talked of for the near future. 




KIK^r MKTHolU-r I I'l- 



)i'\i ciirki-ii. 



130 IOWA LEAVES. 

The Evangelical church, corner of Walnut and Mills streets, 
is among the first in the city, having been established as a mis- 
sion in 1869; it is a neat frame building, with a membership of 
over 100. 

The Swedish Methodist church occupies a neat frame 
edifice on the corner of Howard and Maple streets, with a 
membership of about seventy-five. 

The German Lutherans, on South Maple street, have a nice, 
neat church building, parsonage and school-house, all in connec- 
tion, and the pastor has charge of the school, which he conducts 
very successfully on Saturdays and during the vacation of the 
English schools, so that all may have a chance to learn the Ger- 
man language. 

The African Methodist church was organized in the spring 
of 1888 and occupies a neat building on South Maple street, the 
pulpit being filled every two weeks by an able pastor from 
Osceola 

In giving the schools of Creston we have almost forgotten 
to mention the business college, corner of ^Nlaple and xVdams 
streets, in the ]\Iallory block, which is among the leading educa- 
tional institutions of southwest Iowa. This college is under the 
management of Professor and Mrs. W. II. Barrett, who have 
proved themselves fully competent for the work connected there- 
with; it receives a large share of students from southern Iowa, 
and is very popular with business men and prominent educators 
in the southwest part of the state. 

Secret and fraternal orders arc well represented in Creston 
and have been since the organization of the town. The 
I. O. O. F. society' in 1886 built an elegant brick block on the 
corner of Pine and Mills streets. The building is brick veneer- 
ing upon solid stone foundations 30x110 feet and is two stories 



IOWA LEAVES. 131 

in height. The upper floor is divided into a spacious hallway, 
two anterooms, from which open the lodge room proper, and 
the banquet room. Ash trimmings, stained-glass windows and 
splendid furnishings make it a handsome and pleasant place in 
which to meet. The entire cost was $6,000. 

The well and favorably known wholesale establishment of 
B. F. Heinly & Co. is located on the lower floor of this building, 
and none is more deserving of special notice than the above 
Arm, one of the best wholesale grocery houses in southern Iowa. 
Since the opening of their business in this line they have been 
favored with an excellent trade, brought about through the 
good management and enterprise of each of the members of the 
Arm, until at present they are do'ing a business amounting each 
year to $500,000. They handle all lines of groceries and 
their trade extends over large territories of country, requir- 
ing the constant services of a number of employes. Mr. 
Ileinly was among the first settlers of Creston, having located 
here when the town was in its infanc}'. 

The wholesale house of A. J. Merrill & Co. is located on 
North Pine street; they first opened their doors for business in 
this city about six years ago, and are enjoying a constantly 
increasing trade. They now have commodious quarters in the 
Harsh and Burch brick block on North Pine street, where they 
occupy large space. The firm should be proud of the record 
they have established, as certainly ever}- enterprising citizen of 
Creston is proud to count their store among her leading business 
industries. 

The Creston Lounge Company is the name of a new manu- 
facturing firm in the palace city. The members of this com- 
pany are Geo. W. Auracher and Ed A. Aldrich, two of Cres- 
ton's progressive business men. This company will engage in 



132 IOWA LEAVES. 

the business of manufacturing lounges and parlor suites, and will 
occupy the entire building where Auracher's furniture store now 
is, with the exception of the front room on the first floor. 

NEWSPAPERS. 

There are seven newspapers published in the palace city, 
five weeklies and three dailies, all first-class journals. The first 
is the Creston Advertiser^ which was established in Creston 
July I, 1879, and has had a very successful journalistic career. 
In 1881 Mr. S. A. Brewster, the editor and proprietor, added to 
his business a bindery and blank-book manufactory, and the 
Daily Advertiser was started December 5, 18S1, since when 
the various departments have been greatly added to, and Mr. 
Brewster to-day publishes one of the best daily and weekly 
newspapers in the blue grass regions or in the state of Iowa. 
Mr. Brewster has been sole owner and manager of the institu- 
tion from its re-establishment in 1879, with but one exxeption, 
to the present time. 

The Creston Gazette was established in the spring of 1873 
by J. B. Harsh and C. M. Schultz, and has changed hands a 
great number of times, but for the past tw^o years has been 
very successfully edited by J. B. Harsh and E. A. Brewster; 
while the former is one of the most popular speakers in the 
state of Iowa, the latter is as able a writer, therefore, their news- 
paper has a very large circulation in southern Iowa, both its 
weekly and daily editions. 

The hidependent American was removed from Afton to 
Creston by W. II. Robb, the present editor, in 18S0, Mr. Robb 
having established the paper in Afton in Januar}-, 1887; he has 
been its sole publisher and proprietor, with the exception of 
about a year's partnership in 1886, during which time R. A. 



IOWA LEAVES. 133 

Daixue owned a half interest. In politics Mr. Robb's paper 
espouses the cause of the United Labor party, and it is issued 
every Thursday. He is an able journalist and the paper has 
an immense circulation throughout the blue grass regions. 

The Creston Commonivealth is a splendid paper, ably edited 
by ]Mr. E. |. Sidey, and was established in the palace city a 
number of years ago. The daily and weekly both have a large 
circulation in Creston and Union county. 

The Sunday Ti?nes was established in the blue grass palace 
city in the beginning of the year 1890 by Henry W. Lewis, and 
has had a remarkable career. "Everybody"" takes the Sunday 
Times, which is issued every Sunday morning, and its columns 
devoted to the latest society, dramatic and religious news of 
the day. Mr. Lewis has recently associated himself with Mr. 
A. N. Cole of Lenox, a prominent newspaper man of merit 
who has removed to the palace city, and we understand that the 
paper will be enlarged to twice the present size, and no doubt 
will rank among the best in the state, as its circulation now 
extends over large territories of the blue grass regions of south- 
west Iowa. 

Our business men and citizens generally will bear witness 
to the loyalty of the Creston press, and to the splendid results 
which have followed the efforts of the Creston newspapers to 
extend the fame of the city abroad and of the many advantages 
possessed by the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa. 

The residence portion of the city contains some ver}' hand- 
some homes and residence lots and is beautifully situated ; a 
great number of fine houses and tasty cottages were built here 
during the past year and a large number are in contemplation 
for the coming season, with several now in construction. Lots 
in desirable places are being rapidly taken, and no doubt the 



134 IOWA LEAVES. • 

coming year will mark a golden era in the history of the blue 
grass palace city. 

PINE RIDGE DAIRY. 

One mile due west of the postoffice, on Adams street, is the 
elegant farm of J. B. D\'ar, who operates one of the finest dairies 
in southern Iowa, supplying the inhabitants of Creston and 
vicinity with milk and cream of the purest quality and in any 
quantity desired 

Mr. Dyar established himself in this business near the 
palace city about five years ago, and the whole secret of his 
success lies in the fact that he always keeps the very best stock 
of cows that money can buy and the superior quality of food 
used, which is very essential to the making of good milk. Mr. 
Dyar is one of the substantial men of Union county and is 
closely identified with the interests of the palace cit}'. 

In the extreme western portion of the city is an artificial 
lake or reservoir, which was constructed by the Chicago, Burling- 
ton & Quincy railroad company for the purpose of furnishing 
a supply of water to their mammoth shops in East Creston. The 
system is a complete one, while the shops are the largest in 
southern Iowa, equipped with all modern improvements known 
to the art of railway engineering. So ends a description of the 
palace city situated on the " crest," which was laid out very 
shortly after the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railway reached 
this point, building west in 1859, and a very intimate lady friend 
of the author carried the chain and assisted in the driving of the 
stakes that first marked the destiny of one of the best towns in 
southern Iowa, her husband being at that time one of the finest 
civil engineers in the west. 



JOWA LEAVES. 135 

AFTON. 

Afton, which Hes twelve miles due east of Creston on the 
main Hne of the "Q."" road, is a beautiful village and commands 
a tine view of the adjacent scenery, and the undulations of its 
surface afford ample drainage for its wide and regularly laid- 
out streets. 

The town was platted in 1854 by E, A. Temple of Chari- 
ton, who owned the town site, and was christened by his wife, 
who gave it the name which is found in Tenn3'son''s "Flow 
Gently, Sweet Afton." The county seat was located here by the 
special commissioners in February, 1855. The first house was 
built of logs, 20x20 feet, in April, 1855, by David Fife who, 
when the roof was half on, moved his family and a small stock 
of groceries into the single room and began retailing goods. 
The next house was built by Elbert H. Smith on the north half 
of section 21, adjoining the town plat. Next William CoUings 
built a one-room plank cabin, and over the door was a shingle 
with the word "Entertainment" painted on it in prominent 
letters. 

On September 15, 1855, occurred the first public sale of 
lots in Afton, the attendance being quite large, numbering over 
fifty and including a number of parties from Knoxville, Osceola 
and Chariton. The sale was a success, only one lot on the 
public square selling for less than $100. At noon the sale 
was adjourned and the crowd ate dinner at the Collings House, 
the bill of fare being mutton, corn bread and coffee — a meal 
relished by all. 

The fall of 1S55 found Afton in a hopeful and thriving con- 
dition, quite a number of stores and buildings having been built, 
the county seat located and everything indicating a bright 
future 



136 IOWA LEAVES. 

In the winter of 1855-56 John C. Snow built a two-story 
log hotel, which he sold in a few months to William Locke, 
who hung out the sign "Afton House." Mr. Locke now 
resides in Creston and is known as the pioneer of Union county, 
hale and hearty at the advanced age of seventy-three. 

Afton is well supplied with schools and churches and fra- 
ternal societies, and is noted for the great charitableness and 
hospitality of its people, who are also an educated and splendid 
class of citizens of Union county. 

Arispe is another pretty town, located in Sand Creek tov/n- 
ship, three and one-half miles from the Ringold county line in 
Union county. 

Cromwell is situated near the west line of Union count}-, 
about five miles west of Creston, on the ''Q." road. When this 
town was laid out in 1868 it was generally supposed that it 
would be the west Iowa division station of the Burlington & 
Missouri River railroad and many invested there accordingly, 
only to be disappointed b}' its final location at Creston. 

Kent is situated on the Hopkins branch of the Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy railroad, ten miles southwest of Creston. 
It is the shipping station for a thickl}: settled country and does 
a considerable mercantile business. The town has quite a num- 
ber of business houses and good schools and churches. 

Lorimer is a station on the Diagonal railroad, and is 
located on section 15, New Hope township. The town plat 
was recorded May 16, 1887. 

Shannon City is located in Grant township. Union county, 
and adjoins the Ringold county line on the Diagonal railroad. 
It was laid out June 5, 1888. 

Spaulding is located in Spaulding township, seven miles 
from Creston, on the north branch of the Chicago, Burlington 



IOWA LEAVES. 137 

& QiiincN' railroad. A splendid stock, hay and grain country 
surrounds it and large shipments are made from that point. 

Talmage is located about four miles east of Afton and 
nearly one mile north of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy 
railroad. It is a station also on the Diagonal railroad, which 
passes through Union county from Des Moines to Kansas City. 
Talmage is surrounded by a fine stock-raising country. 

Thayer is situated in Jones township, two miles from the 
east line of the county. It is a station on the Chicago, Burling- 
ton & Quincv railroad and does quite an extensive business in 
shipping stock and grain. 

uxiox county's display in the palace of 1890. 

Union county, the home of the blue grass palace, being 
endowed with a free gift of enterprise, and Creston, the county 
seat, being centrally located in the blue grass regions and the 
metropolis of southwest Iowa, it was decided by the Blue Grass 
League (and afterward arranged with the District Fair Asso- 
ciation) that the palace should be built in her section of country 
on the fair grounds one mile north of the city, where it is now 
permanently located on one of the prettiest sites in the state of 
Iowa. 

Union county ogcupics large space on the gallery floor of 
the novel building, the handsome booth which she occupies being 
divided into four lovely apartments exquisitel}' decorated with 
all the products of her soil. A pure white pyramid forms the 
central piece in the first apartment heavily fringed with a border 
of blue grass and wheat, on which are exhibited elegant samples 
of fruit, vegetables, grasses and grains grown in Union county, 
while the side walls are completely hidden from view b}- 
arrangements of all kinds of grains in the stock and ear, the 



138 IOWA LEAVES. 

whole having the appearance of a richly laden field ready for 
the harvest or of orchards piled full of rosy-cheeked apples, 
while an elegant line of small fruits is shown in glass jars, put 
up by Union's excellent housewives. The grain exhibit attracts 
large crowds every day, the corn being unsurpassed in the 
palace, while wheat, oats, barley, rye, millet, flax and sorghum, 
all show luxuriant growth, being exceptionally fine. The 
vegetable display is grand; cabbage heads that even the Ger- 
mans regard with eyes of envy, for the days of sauerkraut 
are fast approaching; potatoes that weigh two pounds, grown 
in six weeks' time in Union's fertile soil; carrots, beets, 
radishes, celer}', egg plants, tomatoes, pumpkins, cauliflowers, 
squash, melons, peppers, in fact, everything grown of the vege- 
table kind in this latitude are seen here forming a picture, in the 
background of which is seen one of the most fertile counties in 
the great west, abounding in lovely prairies and pretty groves 
which have been planted and successfully raised, and which serve 
for beautifying the landscape as well as protecting buildings 
from the wind and sun and affording excellent shelter for stock. 
We can see in this picture beautiful streams peacefully flowing 
through all this country, affording an excellent supply of water 
for hundreds of cattle which graze on a thousand blue grass bills 
and in lovel}' wooded valleys. 

One portion of this booth is fenced with a pretty rustic 
fence, representing a veritable blue grass pasture, in which 
stands a life-size Jerse}' cow made entirely of blue grass heads. 
Near the cow is seen a milkmaid's stool, and underneath her is 
a large tin pail turned over on the grass, and our eyes rest on 
the creamy milk which has been spilled on the ground. This 
interesting feature draws immense crowds to Union's elegant 
apartments every da}-. Near the cow and pasture are repre- 



7011^4 LEAVES. 139 

sented Union's dairy interests in firkins of rich yellow butter 
and an elegant line of cheese from her manufactories. The 
dairy interests of Union county are beyond competition and are 
being looked after by an intelligent and wealthy class of people. 
Union county is as good a butter county as there is in the state 
and is known as such throughout the entire country. 

A large picture made of grains of corn and all varieties of 
seeds grown in this section of country forms a pretty back- 
ground for the cow and blue grass pasture, and Union's dairy 
interests is an old-fashioned dash churn, as perfect in form as 
the old churn itself. All that is necessary to make the whole 
scene complete is one of Union's pretty maids to occupy the 
milkmaid's stool and one of her excellent housewives to ma- 
nipulate the churn dashes. 

The only parlor, bed-chamber and kitchen represented in 
the palace were made by Union county ; they are very esthetic in 
effect and were manipulated by the ladies of Creston and Union 
county, and are a revelation. Weeks were consumed in the 
work, as man);' as seventy-five ladies working on them at one 
time, and their untiring efforts have been crowned with great 
success; these ladies are certainly deserving of the many 
compliments passed on them by the multitude who have visited 
the great industrial exposition. The parlor is a large room 
and the handsome carpet which covers the floor is made of 
oats straw, and fancy-colored carpet chain; it was woven on 
an old-fashioned carpet loom, is beautiful in effect and coloring 
and one of the greatest curiosities ever seen. 
The furnishings of this room arc simply elegant, each article 
being made of some product of the soil from Union county. 

The beautiful drapes over the windows in this room are 
made of popped corn strung on dainty threads and crossed in 



140 IOWA LEAVES. 

diamond shapes and from a distance have the appearance of 
having been made of a soft, fleecy material, and are graceful!}- 
drawn aside by cords, made of the same. The east side of this 
room represents 3-e olden times of 1830, while the west side 
bears the date of 1890. In the former the walls are of white- 
washed logs, like those used in log-cabin days, giving the room 
a neat and cheerful appearance. A quaint old fireplace occu- 
pies a prominent position in this room and is a most novel and 
interesting piece of decorative work. Over the fireplace is an 
old-fashioned wood mantel, on which are three brass candle- 
sticks and a pair of ancient snuffers, a clock and two winter 
bouquets of autumn leaves, grasses and flowers gathered from 
the trees and fields in Union County. The red brick in this fire- 
place is represented by grains of red shelled corn and the mortar 
bv white grains, the whole being a complete representation of 
those seen in our o-rand-fathers' davs — even to the back-loii" and 
crane. 

Grandma sits knitting close by the fireplace, 
With snowy white hair, and a smile on her face; 
Though years have passed by, yet it does not seem long 
Since she rocked baby's papa to sleep with that song. 

Cosily sleeping in a cradle of ancient pattern, completely 
covered with blue grass and red and white clover blossoms, is 
a lovely, innocent blue grass baby, perfectly unconscious of the 
many admiring eyes resting upon her as she sweetly dreams 
upon a down}' pillow of blue grass heads. 

Grandma has one foot on the rocker and the cradle she swings. 
And though baby slumbers, she hears what she sings. 

A spinning-wheel made of oats and wheat stands in the 
center of the floor, singing a happy song of the many pleasant 
hours spent in this cozy cabin home. The careful housewife 



IOWA LEAVES. 141 

sits b\' clothed in a coarse suit of Hax, drawinir out tlie lonsr 
silken threads from the rack above her, which wind themselves 
hurriedly around the fast ri\ing spools, the tiax seen here having 
been grown in Union county. This scene is a pretty picture 
and greatly admired b}' all; even the artist's eye rests on it with 
keen appreciation. Hanging on the side wall of this pictur- 
esque home is a large map of Iowa made entirely of seeds, which 
is of itself a complete i-evelation. The counties are represented 
by millet seed, while the separating lines are formed of lettuce 
seeds, and the creeks and rivers are traced by lines of cucumber 
seeds, the whole being handsomely framed in a variet}' of small 
blocks of wood, all native of Union county. This piece of ar- 
tistic work has been one of the leading attractions in Union 
county's apartments. Chairs and tables made from the prod- 
ucts of Union's fields and prairies are seen in this comfortable 
home and attract wide attention. Now, reader, we have looked 
upon the home of 1S30, let us gaze on the one of 1890. 

The first object which greets the eye of the visitor in this 
elegant apartment is Ceres, the goddess of grain, life size and 
beautifully clothed in a combination suit of oats and wheat. 
The dress is cut decollete en train., and if the ladies of our east- 
ern and southern cities could look upon the magnificent beauty 
and adornment of this lovely maiden a pang of jealousy would 
immediately cross their hearts. An elegant necklace clasps her 
shapely neck, made of solid grains of sweet corn, while the 
bracelets she wears are of the same material. 

She stands on a pedestal of grasses and grains, in all lier 
royal beauty and splendor, with a crown of blue grass inter- 
miuirled with white clover blossoms on her head. In her ris>ht 
hand she carries a bouquet of wheat, oats and corn tassel. This 
elegant queen has come up to the blue grass palace to bow 



142 IO\VA LEAVES. 

before the king of the blue grass region In honor of Union 
county. 

Near the goddess o. grain is seen a beautiful maiden — "sweet 
sixteen'' — and her elegant costume has the appearance of being 
made of green cut velvet. She carries a beautiful bouquet of 
cardinal flowers, gathered from the fields, in her left hand and is 
a decided brunette in complexion. 

When we realize that her dress is a combination of green 
burs and timothy heads we are indeed surprised. This lovely 
maiden is looked upon with eyes of favor by all young men 
matrimonially inclined in the blue grass regions. 

In the center of this lovely apartment is a large parlor table 
made of all the varieties of grains grown in the county. A 
complete family made entirel}^ of corn husks and silks occupy a 
space on this esthetic table — INIr. and Mrs. C. Ilusk, daughter 
and son. Mr. Husk carries a satchel in his left hand, which 
bears his initials, while each member of the family carries an 
umbrella made of husks, the hair of each being represented by 
corn silk; of course, all are red-headed. A perfect representa- 
tion of the eyes has been made of shiny grains of pop-corn. 
This family is as pretty a piece of genius and skill as is displayed 
in the palace. 

The wheel of commerce ii displayed here, showing all 
grains and grasses grown in the blue grass regions as it slowly 
turns round and round, while a huge bell made of oats, with a 
clapper of corn, hangs suspended above it. The Indian chief, 
Black Hawk, has seemingly arisen from his abode in the forest, 
and has come up to the palace in the garb of civilization. 
He is considerably out of his line of work, but the Great Spirit 
of the universe having informed him of the great wonders of 
the blue grass regions and palace, he comes forth in all his 



IOWA LEAVES. 1*3 

Indian majesty with a wheelbarrow laden with all the large, 
well-matured vegetables which grow in the latitude, and pre- 
sents them to the king with eloquence and pride. A piano 
made entirely of the products of Union's loamy soil attracts 
large numbers of musicians to its side every day, being as per- 
fect in form as if manufactured by J. Reed & Sons of Chicago. 

A strawberry blonde gracefully occupies the piano stool, 
while a dude of the same complexion leans lovingly over her 
with a sheet of music in his left hand. He carries a sort of per- 
suasive air about him and as we look at them we are led to 
believe that she may have refused to sing for him again his 
favorite soncr, "When the Lobsters Nest Again." 

On a lovely blue grass lawn near by is a happy party piay- 
ing croquet, merrily rolling the balls hither and thither, all 
expectant of winning the most interesting game of the season. 

Reader, will you stop for one moment and consider the 
handiwork and planning which this exhibit has certainly 
required in the making up and blending so beautifully of 
such an elegant, elaborate and esthetic decoration? The ladies 
of Creston and Union county have won fame abroad, even in 
foreign countries, as being the most noted manipulators of 
decorative triumph in the whole world. 

We now pass from this elegant apartment to George 
Washington's bedroom, immediately adjoining the parlor on 
the west, where we shall note the furnishings of ye olden times. 

The first object which greets our eye in this room is a 
quaint, old-fashioned, high post bedstead, which would require 
the aid of a step-ladder to climb into. A huge featherbed and 
pair of pillows, also products of Union county, make this bed 
downy and soft, as only genuine goose feathers will. When 
our eves rest on the covering, made of old "yaller" and red 



144 IOWA LEAVES. 

calico, pieced in log-chain pattern and set together with large 
blocks of muslin, our great grandmother's picture comes up 
before us, and when we gaze on the pure white petticoat drawn 
around the bottom, all ruffled and tuffled, we melt into tears. 

This is a complete representation of the bed on which the 
father and mother of our country slept and dreamed the many 
happy hours away, way back in old Virginia, in the long, 
long ago. A washstand of ancient pattern stands in one 
corner of the room, on which is a washbowl and pitcher of 
colonial pottery and a winter bouquet in a blue china vase; an 
old looking-glass with a picture of London bridge across the top 
hangs directly over the stand, making the toilet as complete as 
those seen in the early days of our countr}'. Two chairs made 
of cat-tails and blue grass heads occupy prominent positions in 
this room, and a braided rug of old-time pattern forms the onl}' 
covering for the floor. The curtains over the windows are 
made of white beans and sweet corn woven into all conceivable 
shapes and give the room a pretty iinish. Reader, you may 
draw 30ur own comparisons between this room and the one 
occupied to-da}" by the President of our United States in the 
White House at Washington, D. C. We now pass from this 
novel room into an old-time kitchen, and the first object that 
meets our eye is another fireplace, which has been constructed 
of wood, then received a coat of tar, after which the red grains 
of corn have been put on in the form of brick, while the mortar 
is represented by white grains. An old-fashioned iron crane 
sets in the fireplace, on which is hanging a kettle filled with 
pork and cabbage (more of Union's products) boiling for the 
noondav meal, while 

Auld Baldwin by the ingle sits, 

and the housewife is at her favorite vocation, washing the soiled 



IOWA LEAVES. 145 

linen of tlie family, and the dexterity with which her hands fiy 
up and down the washboard is astonishing, using at the same 
time large quantities of elbow soap. Her general appearance 
and attitude are the subject of much comment b}' all visitors 
to the palace. A wooden table and a few split-bottomed chairs 
of the old kind and a box cupboard complete the furnishings 
of this kitchen, with the exception of a few memory gems in 
the shape of old keepsakes which adorn the mantel above the 
fireplace and three brass candlesticks. 

A low wooden cradle occupies a prominent place near the 
hearthstone, of which I have almost forgotten to speak, and is 
worthy of notice, containing a pair of cherubs, which are very 
numerous in the blue grass regions. A small colored girl sits by 
and swings the cradle while the mother washes; the curtains 
over the windows in this room are made of straws strung on 
threads with a red field berry between each one, forming a 
very pretty and neat drapery. 

It has been almost impossible for visitors to make their 
way through the great crowds which have lingered in front of 
these apartments every day since the opening of the great 
exposition, which are the finest pieces of artistic decoration 
made from the products of the soil ever placed before the 
admiring eyes of people in any country under the sun; and 
as we look upon the wonderful possibilities of art and nature 
combined in this display, we exclaim in the language of Col. 
Mulberry Sellers, "there's millions in it." 

Seventeen other counties, represented in the Blue Grass 
League, occupy lovely separate apartments in the blue grass 
palace, and have royally responded to the call of the great 
king; they came nobly forward in all the rich products of their 
soil, and placed tlieni at the feet of the chosen king of a favored 



146 IOWA LEAVES. 

county, who received them in warm welcome and ber-towed 
upon them all the honors to which the}-' were entitled. 

ADAMS COUNTY. 

The next count}' which claims our attention on this romantic 
sight-seeing joui-ney throughout the blue grass regions and palace 
is Adams, and we pass underneath her rustic sign to gaze on her 
handsome quarters. Adams county has come up to the palace 
in honor of the king of the blue grass regions, decorated in all 
the rich products of her soil. 

The queen of this county occupies a beautiful, decorated 
throne in the center of this booth and is surrounded by every 
beautiful thing A^hich her wonderful soil affords. First are the 
apples, luscious and tempting to the appetites of all visitors ; then 
peaches and pears that would make the eyes of a Californian 
turn green with envy, while the excellent varieties of grapes, 
plums and quinces which lie at the feet of Queen Adams are 
tempting and beautiful to look upon. The display of small 
fruits in glass jars, put up by the queen's servants, is simpl}' 
immense; also the elegant varieties of grain — corn from the 
fertile valleys of the peaceful Nodaway river — which are viewed 
with envy b}' farmers from less favored regions; the oats 
and wheat are also of excellent quality, both in the stock and 
in sacks, left open for inspection. The blue grass timothy and 
clover denote luxuriant growth. The dairy interests of Adams 
county are largely represented in this booth, and occupy a space 
on the queen's left, with a history worthy the attention of all 
visitors. In these Adams cannot be excelled in Iowa. 

The display of native woods in this booth tells a story of 
beautiful forests, which cast their reflections on the quiet waters 
of her peaceful creeks and rivers, and also of cheap fuel for 
her inhabitants. 



IOWA LEAVES. 147 

xV limestone tree over ten feet high is one of the 
most novel and interesting objeets in the entire palace, the 
texture, polish and finish of which is beautiful, and was made 
by Shaffer Bros, of Corning, county seat of Adams county, 
who make a specialty of rustic monuments. The trunk of 
this seemingly model tree of the forest has been shorn of its 
leaves and branches and the carvings are as natural as the 
bark itself; the smooth surfaces where the large limbs have been 
removed are left for inscriptions. This handsome piece of 
work has attracted thousands to the Adams county booth since 
the opening of the great industrial exposition, and was placed 
in the Ottumwa coal palace by the blue grass region exhibitors, 
where it was admired b}^ tens of thousands; it rests to-day in 
one of Des Moines' silent cities of the dead, having been seen 
and admired by a citizen of that city while at the coal palace, 
who purchased it to mark the resting-place of some loved one. 

The limestone quarries from which this stone was taken in 
Adams county are very valuable and immediately adjoin the 
city of Corning, almost within her corporate limits; they are 
inexhaustible, and a ledge of pure sandstone has just been 
discovered. The brick on exhibition are also manufactured at 
Corning and of excellent quality; also abundance of sand and 
lime, which make building cheaper in this county than anywhere 
else in the state. 

Corning, the county seat of Adams county, is situated in 
the heart of the blue gfrass regions of southwestern Iowa and 
on the main line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad ; 
it is one of the most prosperous and enterprising towns in this 
section of country, containing 2,000 inhabitants, and has a fine 
system of waterworks, furnishing an adequate and constant 
supplv of pure spring water; erected at a cost of $20,000. 



148 IOWA LEAVES. 

It has also a splendid Westinghouse electric light plant, 
furnishing beautiful incandescent lights to its citizens at low 
rates, lighting its streets and squares. It has a city hall and a 
splendidly equipped fire department and two beautiful public 
parks. Corning has one of the handsomest court-houses in 
the west, while the public school system cannot be excelled in 
the state, and an academy of higher grade furnishes unsur- 
passed educational facilities. It has flourishing churches rep- 
resenting nearly all the denominations, and nearly all the frater- 
nities have successful lodges. 

Corning is indeed one of the most beautiful and picturesque 
cities in the west, and is the center of wealth, culture and 
refinement. Christian influence and educational advantages of 
the best part of the finest state of the Union. It is also a 
city of beautiful homes and its wooded hills overlooking the 
peaceful Nodaway valley are covered with pretty residences 
and tasteful cottages. 

Corning is a first-class trading point and ships large 
quantities of stock compared with its population. It is the best 
business town on the line of the "Q." railroad in her section of 
the country, and among the best in southwestern Iowa. It has 
many advantages for manufacturers, and no town in western 
Iowa can offer such inducements for their establishment. It is 
a live, energetic, wide-awake, enthusiastic city; has no croakers 
nor grumblers nor dry goods box loafers. All disappeared 
since the blue grass boom and are being replaced by mechanics. 
Corning has the largest tributary territory for country 
trade of any county seat on the main line of the Chicago, Bur- 
lington & Quincy in Iowa. 

The crops have never failed in Adams county, while its 
grazing facilities are unsurpassed. It has large coal beds, fur- 



IOWA LEAVES. 149 

iiishing cheap fuel; it has the best building stone, limestone and 
sandstone in tlie state, and building sand in abundance, and 
manufactures the best lime, brick and tile. 

The valleys of the Nodaway river are unsurpassed in the 
world for fertility and the pastures and meadows are unrivaled ; 
her soil never wears out and is the deepest in tlie world. In 
1S89 the corn crop was 12,813,272 bushels; wheat crop, 331,422 
bushels; oats crop, 255,790 bushels; hay crop, over 100,000 
tons. Her potatoes were selected to represent the state at 
the Paris International Exposition, which shows that Iowa 
fruit stands first in the Union. For four consecutive years 
Adams county took tirst prize at the state fair on her apple 
exhibit. 

Adams county has just reason to be proud of the excellent 
display she has made in the blue grass palace of 1890, and 
the king, as he looks upon her beauty and magnificent advan- 
tages, kindly invites her to the fruit and grain festival of 1891. 

MONTGOMERY COUNTY. 

Reader, we will pass now into Montgomery's landed estate, 
which touches Adams county on the east, Pottawattamie and 
Cass on the north, Page on the south and Mills on the west. 

Montgomery is a large name and she governs a great 
country; she has come up to the palace in chariots of gold, 
loaded down with all the products of an elegant soil. Large 
space is required in which to make her exhibit, and, as the king 
recognizes this fact, she is given commodious quarters near the 
main entrance, where she is viewed by thousands. 

This booth is adorned with great genius, the ceiling and 
side walls being completely hidden from view by thatched 
grasses and grains and having the appearance of inverted 



150 IOWA LEAVES. 

tields of <^olden grain, or of verdant pastures and meadows 
filled with blossoms of the red and white clover. A pyramid 
of cream shelving contains the fruit exhibit, which is a most 
excellent one; its varieties of apples, peaches, pears, plums^ 
grapes and quinces, with a fine display of small fruits in glass 
jars put up by Montgomery's own domestic hands, are greatly 
admired by all visitors. 

Next are the grasses and grains grown in the county and 
equal to any we have yet seen in the palace. The classic 
Nishnabatona river passes entirely through this county, whose 
valley is equally as fertile as that of the Nile in Egypt, and 
such corn as is grown in this valley every year has no equal 
on the continent, large quantities of which are placed in this 
booth for inspection. The stalks are the tallest and the largest 
and best-filled ears seen in the palace come from the Nishna- 
batona valley in southwestern Iowa. 

The displays of oats and wheat, barley, r3'e, flax and millet 
are also of excellent quality. Blue grass, timothy and clover, 
both in the stalk and in sacks, denote luxuriant growth in 
Montgomery's favored section of country. Her dairy interests 
occupy valuable space and we look upon jars of sweet butter 
and rich, creamy cheese — a charming picture for those who 
love to dwell on the everyday articles of life. 

Montgomery certainl}' has no rival in the palace in the 
products of the dairy, while Iowa leads all the states in the 
Union in creameries and cheese manufactories. 

The display of native wood from timber in this county^ 
along the banks of the lovely Nishnabatona river and Walnut 
creek, is astonishing, and as we linger around this elegant 
display our mind wanders back to the old home and wood fire- 
place, where the happiest days of our lives were spent and 



IOWA LEAVES. 151 

where the children of the pioneers of Iowa studied their spell- 
ing lessons in the long winter evenings by the light of a crack- 
ling fire. We can almost hear the wood crackle now as it 
burns and see the sparks fl}^ upward. Abundance of timber in 
this county affords cheap fuel for Montgomery's numerous 
inhabitants. 

Large quantities of brick, stone, tile and sand are also on 
exhibition, which speak of cheap building material in that sec- 
tion of country. 

Let us turn our attention now to the artistic display. 
First we notice a miniature house, the pattern of which has 
been taken from one of Montgomery's favored citizens, Gothic 
in style and architecture, and is surrounded by a beautiful blue 
grass lawn with graveled walks leading down to the front gate, 
bordered on either side with lovely flowers all in bloom, which 
send their sweet fragrance over Montgomery's beautiful apart- 
ment. Small fountains are seen prettil}' playing on this lawn, 
sprinkling the grass with tiny sprays, which sparkle and dance 
in the merry sunshine. This beautiful house and grounds are 
typical of those seen in Montgomery's cities and villages, and 
draw large crowds to her booth in the palace every day. 
As we look on the four "pigs in clover" we laugh outright, 
for we see a miniature pigpen made of logs and set over a 
large square of rich blue grass sod, containing four thrifty-look- 
ing pigs, natural as life and made of large Irish potatoes. 
This one feature alone tells a wonderful story of Montgomery's 
hog profits. 

We next notice a box filled with the purest white sand 
we have ever seen, which was taken from Montgomery's sand 
pits, while the words '' Red Oak" and "Valisca" run down 
the center, written in letters of blue grass. 



IOWA LEAVES. 



153 



Red Oak is the county seat of Montgomery count v, beau- 
tifully situated on the main Hne of the Chicago, BurHngton & 
Quincy raih-oad, or Blue Grass route, and also on the eastern 
bank of the peaceful Nodaway river and contains 4,000 inhabit- 
ants; it is a thriving, prosperous city and its business men arc 
endowed with a due allowance of grit and energy, carrving 
at all times a sort of "get-up-and-get-there" air about them, 
always on the alert for something advantageous to their city and 
county therefore, their city has been of rapid and solid growth. 




A FARM RESIDENCE IN MONTGOMERY COlNTY. 



Elegant brick blocks adorn the streets, while handsome resi- 
dences are scattered throughout the residence portion of the 
cit}-. Fine churches, with tall spires reaching above as if try- 



154 IOWA LEAVES. 

ing to grasp the tiny clouds which float o'er them, are struct- 
ures of which Red Oak is justly proud. Elegant school build- 
ings are seen in every ward and Red Oak is also proud of her 
educational interests. 

The Red Oak Medical and Surgical Sanitarium has a fine 
location in this city, having been opened on June 26 last; it is a 
beautiful and commodious building and fast coming into favor 
with man}^ citizens in the great west. 

A beautiful court-house is in course of construction, which 
when finished will be the most elegant county building in the 
great northwest. 

Red Oak is a great business center for a large tributary 
territory and all classes of business are represented here neces- 
sary in supplying the masses of the same. The Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy railroad passes through the city entire 
from east to west, with branches running north and south, 
each through a rich stock country. 

Montgomery is certainly rich in her possessions, being 
noted for ha\ing the most beautiful and fertile farming region 
in the state, while her farmers are composed of an honest, indus- 
trious and zealous class, who till the soil and earn their living 
by the honest sweat of the brow; and as they turn up the soil 
their mind's eye sees fields of waving golden grain which they 
are sure to reap and cornfields laden with full round ears ready 
for the fall gathering. The grain, stock and dair}" shipments 
foot up large sums in this county e\'ery year, hundreds of cars 
of the same being shipped forth to feed the people of the old 
world as well as those of the new. Valisca, Stanton, Coburgh 
and Elliott are all flourishing towns in Montgomery county. 

After the golden grains of 1891 have been garnered and all 
the products of a rich soil have been gathered together, the 



156 IOWA LEAVES. 

harvest past and the summer ended, we can see Montgomery 
in the distance loading up the golden chariot with the good 
things of her land and wending her way to the palace city of 
Creston, where she will place them in the king's elegant palace, 
built and decorated from the products of Iowa's rich soil. 

Come on, Montgomery, and pass a few days of recreation 
and pleasure where the farmers of the blue grass regions meet 
together and talk over the prices of stock and grain, the crops 
and whom they will run for their next president; where mer- 
chants meet and compare prices on goods, each one, by the 
way, giving a thrilling account of how the ^McKinley bill has 
affected him and the ups and downs of a business life. The 
grain merchant mingles with the stockshipper and the artist 
clasps hands with the architect ; the poet walks with the people 
and old ladies exchange garden seeds, old gentlemen bet on 
the races and young ladies — bless their hearts ! — draw compari- 
sons between the st3le of bonnet and dress worn by their sisters 
last year to the palace and those worn this — all mingling in 
one great delighted throng of eager, anxious, interested guests, 
admiring the beautiful decorations in the blue grass palace 
of 1891. 

"queen mills." 

If the reader will consent to accompany us still farther on 
this interesting journc}' through the blue grass regions and 
palace, we will with pleasure introduce you now to the fairest 
queen among them all, who reigns supreme over a section of 
country that lies between Fremont and Pottawattamie and 
whose fertile valleys on the west lie along the great Missouri 
river, while Montgomery joins hands with her on the east. 

Queen Mills has come up to the blue grass palace glori- 
ously arrayed in all the products of a fertile soil and the king 



IOWA LEAVES. 157 

assigns her one of the most favorable loeations within his 
elegant domicile; she is at home to the people of her own 
county and to all strangers from other lands w^ho ma}' be at- 
tracted to her magnificent apartments. 

The first object of beaut}' which meets our gaze as we 
enter this booth is the ceiling decorations of the different varie- 
ties of grasses grown in ]Mills county, blue grass predominat- 
ing largely in the make-up. And the side walls are covered 
with all the grains of the stock grown in the county — corn, oats, 
wheat, barley, rye, millet and flax, mingled with tall hazel 
bushes, hanging full of hazel nuts. 

Long tables are ranged down the center of this elegant 
booth spread with cream muslin, on which is arranged a fine 
display of fruits from prolific orchards in her section of country. 
If there is one thing more than another which Queen Mills dotes 
on, it is her fruit farms, which are the finest and most product- 
ive in the west, hundreds of acres being devoted to the cultiva- 
tion of apples, peaches, pears, grapes, plums and all the varieties 
of small fruits, which yield large returns every year. A fruit 
farm in Mills county, Iowa, is the same to the owner as a rich 
gold mine is to a Californian. The John Y. Stone fruit farm, one 
mile north of Glenwood, has several hundred acres alone in the 
cultivation of apples and small fruits. L. A. Williams, one mile 
east of Glenwood, has about 200 acres in orchards and seventy- 
five varieties of apples are shown on the tables in this booth 
from the same. James A. Record also makes a fine display 
of fruits from his elegant fruit farm near Glenwood and fine 
exhibits are made by numerous other beautiful and bearing 
orchards in Mills county. The tables fairly groan in this booth 
with their burdens of all the choice fruits in season and a most 
elegant line of canned goods put up by the queen's household. 



158 



IOWA LEAVES. 



What a magnificent festival! Even the king h dehghted as he 
looks upon the excellent display of fruits which Queen Mills has 
made in the palace of 1890. He invites the lords of the British 
Isles and all those living in other lands and people in our "ain 
countree" to look upon this magnificent festival. 

The next prominent feature is the grain exhibit, and we 
are informed by the pleasant commissioner that the large, full 
matured ears of corn on exhibition were grown in the fertile 




HON. JOHN T. STONE S FRUIT FARM. 

valleys of the picturesque Nishnabatona river, which flows 
through this county. The wheat, oats, barley, rye, millet and 
flax denote a wonderful growth, while the blue grass, timothy 
and clover tell an interesting story of her luxuriant meadows 
and pasture lands. 

Next are the queen's dairy interests, represented by jars of 
pure, sweet, golden butter, and excellent cheese is shown from 
numerous manufactories in Mills county; judging from the 
quality of each, Queen Mills cannot be excelled in the west 
in her dairy interests and large shipments of the same are being 
made from her section of country at all seasons of the 3'ear. 



IOWA LEAVES. 139 

The display of native woods from timber aloni^ the banks 
of her creeks and rivers is of excellent variety and qualit}-; 
they afford cheap fuel for her inhabitants. A valuable quality 
of building stone from her quarries, brick and tile from her 
manufactories, with abundance of sand, denote that Mills is well 
supplied with cheap building material. In the esthetic display 
we notice a Chinese pagoda, made entirely from the products of 
Mills county soil. From each corner hang many loopings 
and streamers of fancy colored ribbons. Underneath this 
unique piece of work is a stand made of the varieties of grasses 
grown in Mills county, intermingled with all the beautiful leaves 
and flowers of autumn. An open register lies on the table and 
all visitors are kindly asked to register their names upon its 
pages; as we seat ourselves in a lovely rustic chair, made of 
the products of the soil, and write our names, we almost wish 
that we might call INIills our "-ain countree." 

Near this pagoda is seen an extensive line of canned 
goods from the Glenwood canning factory, which was organ- 
ized in 1883, with Wm. A. Anderson president, Geo. INIichel- 
wait vice-president and D. L. Heinshimer secretary and 
treasurer. 

It was supposed the reputation of Glenwood's canned goods 
was due to the superior processing by its first superintendent, 
as after the first year the goods brought better prices than any 
other canned in the west. But as they are now working with 
the third superintendent, who was entirely unacquainted with the 
others' methods and processing, we find always the same fine 
flavor and quality of the goods, which command the highest 
prices in the markets. Of course, always requiring a very 
careful selection of good goods they have come to the con- 
clusion that the superiority of the Glenwood canned goods is 



160 IOWA LEAVES. 

due mainly to the soil, as the first superintendent was an ex- 
cellent one, and has not been able to produce goods since be- 
comino^ associated with other factories that would command 
the prices which this factory has received and maintained since 
the first year's production. 

The method of procuring tomatoes, which is the main ex- 
hibit in the palace, and also the main work of the factory, is by 
contracting with farmers for certain numbers of acres, generally 
ranging from one to twelve apiece; total, 250 to 400 acres 
every year; average product from 100 to 700 bushels per acre. 
The season of 1890 was a poor one all over the west, but the 
yield in Mills county was over double per acre that of the 
Plattsmouth factory (eight miles from Glenwood) and other 
factories in the west, and as far as we have learned was greater 
than any other factory in Iowa or Nebraska, which shows that 
the Glenwood canning factory can produce quantity as well as 
quality; its pack for 1889 was about 32,000 dozen cans of 
tomatoes and the same number of cans of apples. The goods 
from this factory make a beautiful and valuable exhibit in the 
queen's lovely apartments and are admired by thousands. 

Among: the novel exhibits in this booth are t\\^o wild 
animals, representative of Mills county as she was in early 
days; one is a large timber wolf, which was caught in the 
Missouri river bottom, and the other a ferocious looking wild 
cat from the bluffs along the same. These rare curiosities are 
viewed with astonishment by those people living in our eastern 
states. 

Glenwood, the county seat of Mills county, is situated on 
the main line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad and 
is one of the most beautiful and picturesque towns in south- 
western Iowa, as it seemingly nestles cosily among the hills and 



IOWA LEAVES. 



161 



valleys, beneath the spreadinoc branches of native forest trees. 
The business blocks in this city are mostly of solid brick and 
will compare favorably with those in other towns of its size, 
while the merchants are an enterprising, energetic and liberal 
class of citizens. All classes of business are carried on here 
which is necessary to supply the wants of the large territory of 
surrounding country. 

The state institution for feeble minded children has a fine 
location at Glenwood, and the buildings of the same are all of 




COURT-HOUSE, GLENWOOD. 

solid red brick with handsome limestone trimmings, the interior 
finish being of hard southern pine; it is equipped with all 
modern improvements. An excellent view of the town of 
Glenwood and the beautiful surrounding country is had from 
the veranda on the fourth floor of this building and also of 
the fine farm property of the institution, which consists of 400 
acres of excellent farming land, all in a high state of cultivation; 



162 IOWA LEAVES. 

especial care is given to the cultivation of fruit, there being 
over 2,000 growing apple trees (one-half bearing fruit), 3,000 
bearing grapevines, 3,000 bearing raspberry bushes, 8,000 bear- 
ing blackberry bushes, a large number of cherry trees and 
several thousand currant and gooseberry bushes. 

The following figures partially indicate the amount of labor 
done on the farm and in the garden during the past year: 
One hundred and fifty-five bushels of beans, 1,1 11 heads of cab- 
bages, 1,252 dozen of cucumbers, 250 bushels of onions, 145 
bushels of peas, 391 bushels of tomatoes, 140 bushels of rutabagas, 
1,953 dozen of sweet corn, 255 bushels of beets, 21,000 radishes 
and 3,734 pounds of broom corn* in the dair}- 1^.234 gallons of 
milk have been consumed. 

The brick yard has been a remunerative and interesting 
addition to its industries. Ten kilns burned last year in all 
about 228,000. This year a kiln of 110,000 is at present ready 
for fire. This work is principally done by boys, there being 
only two men employed as managers. The shoe shops also 
continue an industrious and remunerative department; 578 
pairs of boots and shoes were made last year and 1,572 repairs. 

What a grand institution the state of Iowa has placed at 
the disposal of the poor unfortunates within her borders ! The 
buildings throughout have an appearance of order and neatness 
and the superintendent and matron, Mr. and Mrs. F. M. Powell 
who have been at the head of this institution for years, are per 
fectly adapted to the positions they so nobly and honor 
ably fill in the management and the caring of the inmates 
many of whom are feeble in mind as well as in body. 

Mills county is noted for the excellent quality of her soil, 
the abundant harvests she reaps every year of all the grains 
grown in this latitude, her luxuriant meadows and fine blue 



IOWA LEAVES. 363 

grass pastures and last, but not least, as being the finest stock 
country under the sun, unusually large shipments of the same 
being made from this section every 3'ear. The lovely valleys 
of the beautiful Nishnabatona river and Keg creek, which flow 
through the county, furnish excellent pasturage for cattle and 
horses the year round in moderate seasons, while the streams 
furnish them abundance of pure water. 

The Chicago, Burlington & Quiney railroad, or Blue 
Grass route, passes through this county from east to west 
and the Wabash from north to south, with the Kansas City, 
St. Jo & Council Bluffs passing entirely through the extreme 
western portion, affording excellent shipping facilities for all 
her inhabitants. The drainage of the land in this section is 
fine, being high enough to escape wet seasons, while the peculiar 
quality of the soil is such that crops are little affected by 
drouth. Her people are an educated, industrious and aristo- 
cratic class, and widely known for their hospitality. 

Mills for fine farms, comfortable hom.es, prolific orchards, 
excellent vegetables, native timber, lovel}' rivers, fertile valle3's, 
thriving villages, elegant railroad facilities, and the largest 
stock, grain, fruit and dairy shipments in the great west. 

Queen Mills has carried off high honors by the excellent 
exhibits she has made before the noted king of the favored 
blue grass regions, having been admired by thousands of 
visitors to the blue grass palace. 

Malvern, Hastings, Hillsdale and Pacific Junction are all 
thriving towns in this county. As an illustration of her fruit 
farms, we give the following, taken from the Malvern Leader : 

" W. R. TroUet, near Malvern, has an orchard of 3,000 
apple trees, which bore him a crop of 7,000 bushels of apples 
(5,000 bushels of prime marketable fruit and 2,000 bushels of 



164 IOWA LEAVES. 

an inferior grade), tiiat were sold for immediate home con- 
sumption or made into cider and applebutter. The crop 
brought him the snug sum of $4,500. His winesaps that bore 
returned him $500 an acre and his Janets $250 an acre. The 
entire 3,000 trees occupy but forty acres of land, the returns 
therefore being over $100 an acre." 

Mills county is rapidly becoming a great orchard and 
many trees are being set every year. Mr. Seth Macy, of the 
Iowa State Register^ who recently made a trip through 
southwestern Iowa, mainly on the line of the Chicago, Bur- 
lington & Quincy railroad, brings glowing reports of that 
section. " The half has never been told," he said, while talk- 
ing over his trip. " I never saw a prettier country. Around 
Glenwood I found hundreds of acres in orchards and all of them 
doing well. The fruit-raisers of this section are going to make 
thousands out of their apples. They are near Council Bluffs 
and Omaha markets and find ready sale for all they can raise. 
The dealers come upon the ground and contract for the 
fruit at so much a bushel. I found that any quantity had been 
disposed of at $1.00 a bushel for good apples. 

"The fruit belt — that is, the strip of country best fitted for 
fruit raising — is not a wide one. Glenwood seems to be pretty 
near the center of it. It is on a high ridge and well timbered. 
The success of fruit trees here is due to the composition of the 
soil. The trees which I saw, and I saw thousands of them, big 
and little, were all in splendid condition, healthy and bearing 
liberally of the very best kind of fruit. I spent some time at 
the fruit farm of Attorney-General Stone and found him to be 
one of the largest and most successful growers in that section. 
He has hundreds of acres in fruit trees. The attornev-general 
is quite as much farmer as lawyer. 



IOWA LEAVES. 165 

"Tlie more I saw tlie more I kept saying to the people, 
why don't you advertise the advantages of your soil and climate? 
California cannot beat what you have here. The most stupid 
thing is that hundreds of homeseekers have passed through this 
beautiful region of southern Iowa and never found out what a 
good country it is. I told every man that I met that the people 
ought to boom the country, or rather make the world acquainted 
with the advantages of the region in which they live. I was so 
charmed with what I saw that I wanted to turn farmer at 
once. I saw a constant succession of thrifty orchards with 
rosy-cheeked apples on the trees, and, if possible, rosier apples 
heaped upon the ground. 

" Thousands of pickers were at work gathering the fruit. 
Men, women and children were preparing the abundant crop 
for the market. The orchards were so many thrifty spots, sur- 
rounded by native timber in all the glory of autumn coloring. 
If I had to live anywhere but in Des Moines, I would live in 
the blue grass regions that I have just visited, raise fruit, grow 
rich and die happy. The fact is becoming more and more 
patent that the people who live in Iowa have everything to be 
thankful for. The countr}' that lies between the two great rivers 
of the continent — the Missouri and the Mississippi — is the best 
the Creator ever made. It is the Eden of the new world and 
will become the granary of the nation. The fact is beginning 
to dawn on all that this is so." 

When the blue grass carnival of 1891 is thrown open to 
the world in August next, no doubt the fairest queen among the 
entire eighteen counties comprising the blue grass regions of 
southwestern Iowa will come forth to the palace, where she 
will be received with cheers resounding throughout the whole 
state. 



16G IOWA LEAVES. 

FREMONT COUNTY. 

Just across the line from Mills county on the south is Fre- 
mont, which forms the entire southwest corner of the great state 
of Iowa. The western border of this county lies along the bank 
of the big, muddy Missouri, while Page looks on her with great 
favor from the east. Fremont has come up to the palace with 
all the pomp and splendor of a great nation to worship at the 
shrine of her devoted admirer, King Blue Grass, to become better 
acquainted with her neighboring counties in southwestern Iowa 
and to mingle with strangers from other lands that all may 
learn of her great resources. Her excellent exhibit has been 
arranged in commodious quarters, and so esthetic and unique 
are her elegant decorations that the eyes of all visitors are fairly 
charmed as they gaze on her magnificent array of decorative 
triumph. 

Fremont has come up to the blue grass carnival with the 
full expectation of carrying off first honors, and as we gaze on 
the great taste, genius and skill manifested in her apartment 
we are led to believe she is worthy of them. 

The ceiling of this booth is completely hidden from view 
by exquisite arrangements of corn in the stock, wheat and oats, 
while the side walls are covered with all the grains and grasses 
grown in Fremont county. Long tables are ranged in rows 
down the center of the booth spread with rich linen, on which 
are exhibited fine samples of all the luscious fruits from her 
orchards and prolific berry patches. These fruits are served on 
decorated China plates and such an array as is set before the 
king and his favorite subjects has never been witnessed in any 
other country on the continent. 

Vegetables of every kind grown in our latitude are piled 
up in heaps underneath the tables, elegant in variety and quality, 



IOWA LEAVES. 167 

which tell a wonderful story of Fremont's rich soil. Near by 
are sacks tilled with all the varieties of grain grown in the 
county — corn, oats, wheat, barley, rye, millet, flax, broom 
corn, timothy, clover and blue grass seed. Corn, oats and wheat 
are also shown in the stock, being the finest exhibit in the palace. 
Fremont's dairy interests are largely represented; and such 
butter! even the king himself acknowledged the compliment of 
Fremont having placed such elegant butter before him. And 
such cheese! " Western reserves" are nowhere when compared 
with the cheese manufactured in Fremont county. 

Seventy-six varieties of wood, all natives of this beautiful 
section, were placed here by a student of the noted Tabor College, 
which is located in the northern portion of Fremont county, and 
the display of fine arts, which take up one whole side of this 
lovely apartment, is made by this same college, and attracts the 
attention of every visitor to the blue grass palace, crowds 
lingering around it every day. 

There are people in the eastern and southern states, per- 
haps, who would hardly believe, could they see them, that these 
elegant paintings were executed by the students of Tabor Col- 
lege in the west. But the blue grass regions of Iowa can boast 
of as skilled artists as are found anywhere in the United States, 
either in crayon, oil, water or pastel. If } ou don't believe it, 
come out to the blue grass palace of 1891 and see the excellent 
showing made by Tabor College in the fine art gallery and by 
numerous other master artists of Iowa. 

The silk culture is represented in this booth by an interest- 
ing display of creamy silk cocoons, a part of which has been 
unwound, showing forth an excellent quality of silk. 

A complete line of artistic furniture is shown in the eastern 
portion of the booth, representing a parlor furnished entirely 



168 



IOWA LEAVES. 



with rustic furniture, every piece having been made of some 
product of the soil. Chairs, tables, sofas, swings, cradles, etc., 
all arranged with the same excellent taste as is displa3-ed by 
the careful housewife in Fremont's happy homes. 

On each side of the entrance to this booth are the tallest 
stalks of corn seen in the palace — from twelve to fifteen feet 




COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 



high and grown in the fertile valleys of the beautiful Nishna- 
batona river. 

Fremont has, without a doubt, the most elaborately deco- 
rated booth in the palace of 1890; therefore, when the king's 
judges are sent forth to decide on the most excellent exhibit 
they will wisely and justly place the blue ribbon on Fremont. 



IOWA LEAVES. 169 

Sidney is the county seat of Fremont county, situated on 
the Sidney branch of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy raihoad, 
which traverses the county entire from northwest to southeast, 
while the Kansas City, St. Jo & Council Bluffs penetrates the 
extreme western portion, affording excellent shipping facilities. 

Sidney is a beautiful village almost in the center of the 
county, where all classes of business are represented necessary 
in supplying the wants of a large tributar}' country, while Far- 
ragut and Riverton, on the Red Oak branch of the "Q.," are 
flourishing towns. Tabor, on the Tabor & Northern railroad, 
is also a b'eautiful town of lovely homes and has one of the best 
colleges in the state, which is patronized by manv citizens of 
Iowa. 

Fremont is a good stock country and large shipments of 
the same are made from her section of country at all due sea- 
sons of the year. Fremont has become famous to shippers and, 
in fact, is one of the greatest stock countries in the west. Lake 
Wahagbonsy, which lies below Bartlett and near McPaul, a 
short distance from the Kansas City, St. Jo & Council 
Bluffs railroad, affords excellent facilities for hunting and 
fishing. Those who are in search of permanent homes in 
the west would do well to investigate Fremont's excellent 
soil and climate, her superb railroad and educational facili- 
ties and her hospitable, enlightened and Christian citizens, 
who royally receive all strangers who may wish to cast 
lots with them in the wonderful blue grass regions of south- 
western Iowa. 

Fremont, you have certainly won fame abroad by your 
excellent exhibit in the palace of 1890 and don't fail to again 
make a showing in the palace of 1891; come prepared to 
secure first prize. 



170 IOWA LEAVES. 

PAGE COUNTY. 

And it came to pass in those palace days that the king of 
the blue grass regions looked with great favor upon a count}' 
called Page, one of the most fertile sections among the entire 
ninety and nine counties in Iowa, whose people under his reign 
are prosperous and happy; the luxuriant growth of all the prod- 
ucts of her soil is marvelous. 

Page county lies due east of Fremont, south of Mont- 
gomery and Vv'est of Taylor in the extreme southern tier, join- 
ing the state of Missouri on the south; no county has greater 
advantages, which fact is fully demonstrated by her exhibit 
in the blue grass palace. She has come forth to make her 
obeisance to King Blue Grass and display her wonderful re- 
sources before a vast multitude. She occupies a very favorable 
location on the gallery floor of the beautiful building, where 
her attractions are indeed numerous. 

In the center of this booth is a pyramid of steps, covered 
with cream cheese-cloth, on which are arranged elegant samples 
of all the fruits grown in her section of the country. We see 
here over seventy-five varieties of large, round, luscious red 
and yellow apples, delicious in flavor; in fact, such apples as 
are only grown in Page county. The display of peaches, pears, 
grapes and plums, and an elegant line of small fruits in glass 
jars, speak volumes for the cultivation of fruits in her section, 
for which her soil is admirably adapted. 

The displays of grains and seeds, both in the stalk and in 
open sacks, are very tine and compare favorably with any we 
have yet seen on our rounds through the palace. Blue grass, 
timothy and clover denote luxuriant growth and tell a large 
story of waving meadows and verdant pastures. The vege- 
tables are ranged in rows below the grain exhibit, showing 



IOWA LEAVES. 171 

forth the wonderfully productive quality of Page county soil. 
Cabbage heads, larger than wooden pails, beets, carrots, onions, 
potatoes, parsnips, beans, egg-plants, squashes, pumpkins, 
tomatoes, etc. — every known vegetable which can be grown 
successfully in the latitude is seen here. 

Near-by are represented her dairy interests ; jars of pure, 
sweet butter and excellent cheese from numerous cheese manu- 
facturers in the county are shown, and open for sampling; we 
pronounce them elegant and unsurpassed in the palace. If the 
citizens of the eastern and southern states could look upon the 
dairy interests of Page county, represented in this booth, in 
the famous blue grass regions, at Creston, Iowa, thev would 
certainly bid adieu to home and friends and seek a home in this 
section of the countr}-, 

Where excellent blue grass pastures reign 
Along the bank of pure fresh streams, 

and engage in the butter and cheese industry. Near the dairy 
interests are shown tifty varieties of native woods from along 
the banks of the classic Nodaway and East and West Tarkio 
rivers. This is a beautiful exhibit, indicative of cheap fuel and 
lovely landscapes. 

Clarinda, the county seat of Page county, is situated on 
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy niilroad, or Blue Grass 
route; it is a beautifully located city and full of prosperity and 
energy. All classes of business which are necessary to supply 
a large and wealthy territory tributary are successfully carried 
on here. The buildings in the business portion of the city are 
neat and mostly of brick, comparing favorably with those of 
other cities in southwestern Iowm, while the merchants are 
composed of men who are ver}- enterprising and liberal, and 
are, therefore, a prosperous class. 



172 



IOWA LEAVES. 



Good schools and churches of all denominations find a per- 
manent home in Clarinda; neither is she unmindful of her edu- 




COURT-HOUSE, CLARINDA. 



cational interests m the country surrounding, for neat school- 
houses are seen in every district, with cosy furnishings and 



IOWA LEAVES. 175 

every convenience for the development of the mind and body. 
The new State Insane Asylum occupies a handsome location 
near this city, with beautiful grounds and equipped with aU 
modern improvements, the fine farm in connection being entirely 
devoted to agriculture. 

The Chicago, Burlington & (^uinc}' railroad traverses 
this county from north to south, while the Wabash & St. 
Louis passes through from northeast to southwest, affording 
excellent shipping facilities. Page county is noted for the fertil- 
ity of its soil, which grows luxuriant crops every year, while 
hundreds of cattle graze in all seasons of the year on her 
elegant blue grass pastures. The stock shipments from her 
section are equal to any in the west; in fact, the number of 
cars of cattle, hogs, sheep and horses shipped from this region 
to other markets over the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy and 
Wabash railroads in the last few years tells a wonderful story 
of her stock industry. 

Certainl}' Page count}^ is rich in all the golden shekels 
which she has placed before the king in the blue grass palace^ 
rich in her soil and in her scenery, rich in coal, wood and stone,, 
rich in elegant farms and a kind, hospitable and charitable 
people. Page is rich in cattle and line horses and also rich in 
all the man}^ advantages which go toward making her one of 
the very best counties in the noted blue grass regions of th-sou 
western Iowa. Shenandoah, in the extreme western portion of 
the county, is a beautiful city of lovely homes, costly churches 
and pretty school buildings and one of the best canning factories 
in the west. 

The name of Page is being repeated over large territories 
of a great country, and as the season of 1891 rolls on and she is 
blessed again with beautiful crops and full barns, we can see her 



174 



IOWA LEAVES. 



coming up to the blue grass palace, forming the richest jewel 
in the casket among the entire eighteen. 




HIGH SCHOOL, CLARINDA. 



TAYLOR COUNTY. 



Reader, will you accompany us still farther on the rounds 
of the famous blue grass palace ? There are many other beau- 



IOWA LEAVES 175 

tiful and interesting plaees to visit and among them is the Tay- 
lor eounty display, in which you will love to linger*, for this wig- 
wam is one of the most beautiful and elaborately decorated ones 
in the palace. 

Taylor count}' lies due east of Page, west of Ringgold and 
south of Adams, joining the state of ^Missouri on the south, and 
occupies a territory twenty-four miles square and about fifty 
miles east of the Missouri river. Her elegant booth in the 
palace is the first one to the right of the main entrance and 
occupies large space, and when we enter the magnificent apart- 
ment we are seemingl}' enraptured with the many beautiful 
scenes surrounding us. The first object which greets the eye is 
a castle, const^'ucted entirely of the products of the soil, the 
architecture being of the latest Queen Anne pattern, with long, 
low Gothic windows of stained glass looking out over a beauti- 
ful blue grass lawn, on which numerous fountains are seen send- 
ing forth the tiniest of spra3's, which glisten like thousands of 
diamonds in the sunlight. On each side of the smooth graveled 
walks are lovely blooming flowers, in all the different shades and 
colorings, while beyond the lawn rests a tranquil lake whose 
banks are fringed with beautiful flowers. 

This is a picture for an artist to dwell upon, as the author 
cannot do it justice in a descriptive write-up. On either side of 
the castle are arranged an elegant display of fruits, vegetables, 
grasses and grain, while the side walls are completely covered 
with pictures made of seeds, clover heads, cornhusks, wiiole 
ears of corn split and sawed lengthwise and grains of corn; fig- 
ures made of wheat, oats, barley, rye, millet and flax, prominent 
among which is a horse, life size, made entirel}' of red clover 
heads, which has been admired by thousands ; a sheep made of 
oats and wheat heads is another attractive piece of artistic work. 



ne IOWA LEAVES. 

In one corner of this booth we notice a laro^e wooden eg-of 
suspended by a heavy cord from the ceihng. A small bantam 
hen sits on the egg, while underneath is a card on which is 
given an estimate of Taylor's egg shipments; the figures are 
enormous, and this bantam hen has the honor of having laid 
the golden nest-egg of success. The grain, fruits, grasses and 
vegetables are arranged on pyramid steps and are an interesting 
sight to witness, and tell a large story of the fertility of Taylor 
county soil, line crops of each being grown here every year. 
Sample products of the dairy are represented in large pails 
of fine, pure, sweet butter, and elegant cheese from her many 
manufactories of this article. From the dairy alone Taylor 
reaps large profits every year. 

Taylor county is noted for its great agricultural resources 
and some of the finest farming lands in the state are found here- 
And she cannot be excelled in the west as a stock county. 
Large shipments of cattle, hogs, horses and sheep are made 
from Bedford, Gravity, New Market, Lenox and Conway, and 
her dairy shipments are equal to any in the blue grass regions. 
The fine nutritious grasses in this county furnish a feed for 
cattle which not only fattens them but imparts to their flesh a 
flavor that makes them in large demand in the eastern markets. 
The milk from the cows is rich and produces the finest quality 
of butter. As an instance of this we refer to the fact that the 
product of her creameries, which run during the entire winter 
and summer, sells readily at 35 cents per pound. The horses 
produced in Taylor county are fast gaining a national reputa- 
tion for their perfect development and buyers visit the different 
towns in this county every day in quest of these animals to 
supply the demand they have for them in the eastern and south- 
ern markets. 



IOWA LEAVES. 177 

Sheep of the finest grade and development eome also from 
the blue grass pastures of Taylor eounty and the market in 
Chicago has again and again been .topped by them. 

The drainage of the land in this section is line, while 
plenty of water flows through all portions of the count}', the 
peaceful Nodaway, Platte river and Honey creek, whose valleys 
are teeming with a luxuriant growth of blue grass, affording 
excellent pasturage for stock. About thirty-five years ago the 
seed of the Kentucky blue grass was sown to some extent in 
Taylor county, and it has gradually increased until it seems to 
spring spontaneously from the ground, covering the pastures 
and forming a beautiful rich, green coating in the timber lots, 
springing up along the highways, and on the open prairies it 
grows and matures in all its richness and strength. In the fall 
this grass falls down into a soft mat or carpet, and under its 
protection the young sprouts grow on until the ground is 
frozen, and in the winter this grass affords a rich, fine feed for 
the stock which the farmers of Taylor county produce in 
abundance, the quality of which cannot be surpassed in the 
Union. 

There are ten towns in this county. Bedford is the county 
seat and contains over 2,000 inhabitants; it is situated on the 
Kansas City branch of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy 
railroad, or Blue Grass route, which traverses her section from 
northwest to southeast, while the Wabash & St. Louis, II. & 
S. and Chicago, St. Paul & Kansas City lines furnish direct 
communication and ample shipping facilities. 

Bedford has one of the finest locations in the blue grass 
regions of southwest Iowa, and is noted for being one of the best 
towns in the state of its size, because through all the trials and 
changes that are common to a new country and a new town the 



178 IOWA LEAVES. 

citizens of Bedford have never allowed tneir town to take a 
backward step. No fictitious boom has overtaken it with 
vacant houses, but a steady growth amply justified by the 
increasing wealth of the surrounding country has always charac- 
terized it. No single man or corporation has grown up to 
monopolize the interest and absorb all the wealth, and thus they 
have a city of comfortably well-off citizens, who, being property 




COURT STREET, BEDFORD— LOOKINO NORTH. 

owners, are all personally interested in the success of their city. 
There is not a city of the same size in southwestern Iowa 
that has so many substantial brick business blocks as Bedford. 
They are all neat and conveniently arranged, and having been 
built close together give the street a business-like appearance 
and add greatly to the appearance of this portion of 



IOWA LEAVES. 



179 



the city. The early settlers took great care to plant 
out innumerable line shade and ornamental trees along 
the walks, which have now grown to considerable size 
and spread out their heavy foliage beneath the hot 
summer's sun, making a most delightful, inviting shade. 
Pure water of the best quality is obtained in abundance at a 
depth of from twenty to fort}- feet. She is free from bonded 




MAIN STREET, I5EDFORD — LOOKING WEST. 

indebtedness, has a fine high school costing $25,000 and as tine 
a city hall as can be found in the west. Pretty churches of all 
denominations adorn her streets, while the public school system 
ranks with any in the state; she has an excellent, well-equipped 
fire company furnished with a large chemical engine and fine 



180 IOWA LEAVES. 

teams of horses. Within the hmits of the corporation are fine 
quarries of Umestone, while bricks of excellent quality are 
manufactured here. Bedford offers a home to the family desir- 
ing an atmosphere of purity and intelligence and invites such to 
come and live within her borders. 

The climate is the same as is generally common to the blue 
grass regions, which is sufficiently known for its healthfulness. 
Here comfort, health, vigor and long life are the rule, not the 
exception. The cold winter storms that sweep over other 
northern countries are broken before they reach this fair county 
and the growing grass and budding trees give evidence of 
returning life, while the frozen soil of Dakota, Minnesota and 
northern Iowa are still held in the cold embrace of winter. 

Such is a brief description of Taylor county, which came 
3,000 strong to the great industrial exhibition, accompanied by 
the elegant Fifth Regiment band of Bedford, which discoursed 
some excellent music in the beautiful auditorium during their 
sojourn at the palace. It is not our intention to create a boom; 
we aim to present facts, giving a truthful word picture without 
coloring or exaggeration. 

If this should attract the attention of any seeking homes, 
we simply ask them to examine this section of country. Men who 
have the means with which to buy a farm or start in business in 
one of these towns will find a country here that is beautiful to look 
upon, and never fails to produce a fair crop, and has a people 
noted for their intelligence and morality. To all who can appre- 
ciate such advantages Taylor extends a hearty welcome. 

Taylor's exhibit in the blue grass palace was an index of 
what her country affords, and was admired by a multitude; 
so the great king invited her to the great carnival of 1891. 
We predict that she will come up to the palace city with the 



IOWA LEAVES. 



181 



cap sheaf on top, the richest and most elaborate decoration ever 
witnessed in any countr}- under the beautiful, dazzling sun. 

The following cut represents the Bedford Business College 
and Institute of Shorthand, Barrett & Clark, proprietors. This 
new educational institution opened its doors for the enrollment 




BEDFORD BUSINESS COLLEGE. 

of Students, Monday, March 2, 1891. To date there have been 
enrolled about forty students and the indications are that within 
the year the enrollment will reach up in the hundreds. The 
college has been fitted up by the proprietors in an elegant 



182 



IOWA LEAVES. 



manner for the reception of students. It is certain that the 
business men of Bedford did a grand thing when they secured 
for their city this excellent institution and the citizens of Bed- 




BEDFORD HIGH SCHOOL. 

ford and of Taylor county will give it their hearty support 
and co-operation. In the opening of this institution one more 
laurel has been added to the educational wealth of the blue 
grass regions of southwestern Iowa and we hope to see it 
liberally patronized by the citizens of our state. 



IOWA LEAVES. 183 

RINGGOLD COUNTY. 

Ringgold's fleecy curtains are drawn aside and we peer next 
into her beautiful portals. We gaze first on this side of beauty 
and magnificence and then on that. Ringgold is crowned in all 
her richest jewels to-da}', for she has come up to the palace to 
share her profits and products with the great king of the blue 
grass regions. She is Decatur's nearest neighbor on the west, 
but not a pang of jealousy crosses her heart on account of her 
sister's elaborate display in the next apartment; neither is she 
the least envious of another handsome sister called Union on 
the north, nor of sister Taylor on the west, and, as the great 
king casts his eye over this elegant display made by Ringgold, 
he breaks forth in the following enthusiasm: "Ringgold, you are 
all my heart desires you to be! Come, ^'ou gifted of the land! 
Come, my people, from your seclusion in the forests and gaze 
upon the great display of enterprise and genius made by Ringgold 
in the carnival of 1890! Look upon all these delicious fruits 
and vegetables, manipulated by the hands of Ringgold's fair 
sons and daughters. Behold this luxuriant corn in the stalk and 
in the ear! a valuable product of Ringgold's loamy soil. Gaze 
on the beauties of her golden grains and grasses cut from her 
meadows and the blossoms of the red and white clover. 

"See the elesfant blocks of wood cut from her beautiful 
native forests and the huge samples of building stone from 
her exhaustless quarries. Ringgold, you are, indeed, a favored 
spot in the famous regions over which 3'our people have 
anointed me king. You are rich in all your many landed 
possessions. Your cattle and horses graze on a thousand blue 
grass hills and in all your lovely valleys, and the quiet, 
picturesque streams which steal their way through \ our section 
furnish them abundance of pure water. 



184 IOWA LEAVES. 

"Your railroad facilities are excellent for shipping stock and 
grain, while the beautiful village of Mt. A3^r, which is your 
county seat, is situated on the greatest blue grass route under 
the sun. Your whole country is dotted with beautiful and 
highly improved farms. Neat houses of worship and cosy 
school buildings adorn each district in all the multiplied gifts 
which the great Ruler of the universe has bestowed upon 3'ou, 
and it seems that 3'ou have not been unmindful of your 
christian duty, or your educational interests, either in the cit}' 
or country. You have come up to the palace in a most 
dazzling array of splendor. Your gorgeous attire and hand- 
some decorations are a revelation to a vast multitude who have 
gazed on them. 

"Your farms rank among the best in the state and thrift, 
prosperity and comfort surround them all. After the harvests 
of 1 89 1 are past and you have garnered the golden grains and 
3'Our corn is ripe in the ear, when the blue grass, timothy and 
clover have dropped their seed, load up the chariot again with 
all the products of your rich soil, come up to the palace, choose 
a location, and adorn, decorate and embellish it that the whole 
world ma}' learn of Ringgold's landed estate." 

DECATUR COUNTY. 

The next county of interest that has come up to the grass 
carnival in all glory, honor, profit and praise, tendering a rich 
tribute to the king, is Decatur, Wayne county's western neigh- 
bor, lying due south of Lucas in the extreme southern tier of 
counties and east of Ringgold. 

Decatur occupies a favorite booth in the palace and the 
king smiles as he looks upon her excellently arranged exhibit. 
Three sides of the booth are thrown open for public gaze and, as 



IOWA LEAVLS. 



185 



we look for the lirst time on the rich products of her soil, we 
are completely dazzled, as it were, with the many beautiful 
things which meet our gaze. The ceiling and side walls are 




COURT-HOUSE, LEON. 

completely covered with exquisite arrangements of corn, oats, 
wheat and blue grass, while a pyramid of pure cream shelving 
forms a background for the delicious fruits in season : fine apples 



186 



IOWA LEAVES. 



a specialty; large quantities of grapes, peaches, plums, pears and 
quinces are very tempting and an elegant displa}' of small fruits 




FARMERS AND TRADERS' BANK, LEON. 



is shown in jars, put up by Decatur's household. The grain 
exhibit is fine; corn, both on the stalk and in glass jars, is looked 



IOWA LEAVES. 187 

upon with envious eyes by farmers from less favored sections. 
Oats in the stalk and in jars, wheat, barley, millet, rye and flax- 
are immense. The native woods on exhibition from timber 
growing along the banks of the Grand and Weldon rivers in 
this county are a very interesting and novel exhibit — advantages 
of cheap fuel. These streams also furnish abundance of pure 
water for sjiock and the luxuriant growth of blue grass in these 
valleys supplies ample feed for cattle and horses during the 
summer and fall months or in moderate seasons the year 
round. 

Leon is the county seat of Decatur county, situated on the 
Chariton branch of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, 
or Blue Grass route, which passes through the county from 
northeast to southwest, while the Wabash & St. Louis extends 
through the northern portion, affording excellent facilities for 
shipping stock, grain and miscellaneous articles, which com- 
mand the highest prices in other markets. The citizens of this 
county are an educated and enterprising class of people, while 
comfortable homes, school-houses and churches are seen on 
every hand and if the stranger from other lands could look over 
Decatur's great resources when the fields of golden grain are 
ready for the harvest, or when the orchards are ripe with the 
mellow fruits of autumn, or even when her extended prairies 
are covered wnth a verdure of velvet green, he would certainly 
wish that he might live among the kind people of Decatur 
county. Leon is a lovely village and all classes of business are 
established here, active in supplying the wants of a large, rich 
and fertile country surrounding them. Decatur has made an 
excellent showing in the blue grass carnival and her great 
resources have been advertised throughout the land. Come 
again, fair Decatur; you will be welcome. 



190 IOWA LEAVES. 

WAYNE COUNTY. 

Wa3'ne county joins lands with Appanoose county on the 
east, is in the extreme southern tier, and Lucas bounds her 
on the north and Decatur on the west. This county has placed 
an elegant exhibit in the palace in honor of the king of the blue 
grass regions, being one of the favored among the eighteen 
which belong to the Blue Grass League. Wayne has come 
forth to the palace loaded down with all the products of her soil 
and has arranged them with great skill in one of the most con- 
venient locations on the ground floor of the elegant building. 
This exhibit tells a profitable story of the industry and wealth 
which she possesses. Three sides of the booth are arranged in 
the form of steps, covered with delicate cream muslin on which 
are displayed elegant varieties of all the fruits in season, tempt- 
ing all who look upon them. From these one can imagine that 
the fruit production from these regions is unsurpassed. 

The display of grains, both in the stalk and in sacks, speaks 
volumes for Wayne's prolitic soil; corn, oats, wheat, barley, 
rye, millet, llax, timothy, blue grass and clover are the chief 
productions, and the samples of each displayed in this booth 
are excellent in variety and quality. The vegetables are a 
revelation. A complete garden patch, filled with all the well- 
matured vegetables which grow in this latitude from Wayne's 
fertile soil; one almost wishes they might live in this beautiful 
section of country, when gazing on her fruit, vegetable and 
grain exhibit. 

The dairy interest is well represented in firkins of pure 
butter and golden cheese; from this one industry alone she reaps 
large profits every year. The display of native wood from the 
timber in this county is fine and indicates abundance of cheap 
fuel for all inhabitants. The decorations of the ceiling and 



IOWA LEAVES. ^^^ 

side walls arc of corn, oats, timothy and blue grass, arranged 
with pretty effect. 

Corydon is the county seat of Wayne, situated on the 
Wabash & St. Louis railroad, which passes through the 
county from east to west, while the Chicago, Rock Island & 
Pacific passes through the southern portion of the county, and 
the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul also traverses her section, 
affording excellent transportation and shipping facilities. This 
county is noted for its mineral resources, there being ten coal 
mines in operation in the county, the principal one being located 
at Seymour — the Occidental & Co-operative Coal Company. 
The vein of coal which is being operated in this count}' is 
about two feet and a half thick- and belongs to the middle 
coal measures and is of good quality for domestic purposes. 
The Occidental mine at Seymour is an exceedingl}- large one 
and is doing a large shipping business. The county produced 
in one year 34,000 tons of coal. Wayne county for rich soil, 
healthful climate, splendid drainage, fine cattle, sheep, hogs 
and horses, abundance of pure, running water, a kind, hospitable 
and charitable people. Numerous school-houses and neat houses 
of worship greet the eye of the traveler in every district and 
when the stranger from other lands enters our state with the 
intention of locating within her borders he may tind all that is 
desirable for a happy home in Wayne county. 

APPANOOSE COUNTY. 

Appanoose is the next county represented in the blue grass 
palace and we ask the reader to follow us closely through this 
romantic abode. You will be delighted when you gaze upon 
her many natural advantages and her beautiful artistic decora- 
tions. The first interesting object which greets the eye of the 



192 



IOWA LEAVES. 



visitor is the Goddess of Liberty, clothed in a combination suit of 
clover, timothy and blue grass, while the crown consists of the 




COURT-HOUSE AT CENTREVILLE. 



stars and stripes and her left hand bears aloft the American 
flag. This goddess gracefully stands on a pedestal constructed 



IOWA LEAVES. 193 

entirely of the products of the soil, in all her fair American 
beauty, while on her right side is seen a large, savage-looking 
wolf, a wild cat, several species of wild fowls and a card 
bearing the date 1840. On the left hand are seen tame fowls, 
pigs (in clover) and several sheep grazing in a pretty blue 
grass pasture, and a card bearing the date 1890. This is a 
picture greatly admired by thousands of visitors every day in 
the palace and one from which the reader may draw his or her 
own conclusions. The ceiling decorations are manipulated 
with genius and skill, having been the work of fair ladies living 
in Appanoose county. The side walls are entirely covered with 
green corn-stalks, wheat and oats, the combination being beau- 
tifully wrought. 

Another valuable exhibit occupies a prominent place near 
the entrance and is the largest block of coal in the palace, from 
the noted Centreville mines in this county. Near it are seen 
fine samples of building stone, brick and tile, also fifty-six 
varieties of wood, taken from the native timber in Appanoose 
county. 

Let us now turn our attention to the displays of fruits, 
vegetables, grasses and grains, which are equal to other dis- 
plays of this kind in the palace, and are looked upon with eyes 
of favor by all visitors, while the king is equally as well pleased 
with their excellence in variet}' and qualit}'. Appanoose makes 
a specialty of fine apples and she certainly deserves great 
credit in this display, with other fruits equally as fine. The 
grain exhibit is an excellent one and tells plainly the composi- 
tion of the soil in Appanoose count}'. Corn in the ear and in 
glass jars, oats, rye, barley, millet, flax, etc., all denote very 
heavy growth and can be produced in large quantities yearly 
in this beautiful section of country. 



194 



IOWA LEAVES. 



Appanoose is noted also for its numerous coal beds, fine 
farms, elegant blue grass pastures, fine stock, thriving villages, 
numerous churches and neat district schools and as having an 
intelligent and enterprising class of people. The coal which is 




STANDARD COAL COMPANY, CENTREVILLE. 

operated in this county is of the middle coal measures and is 
two feet and a half thick; it extends with more uniformity of 
thickness than the coal of any other county in the first district 
and is of excellent quality for domestic purposes. There are 



IOWA LEAVES. 195 

thirty-three mines in the county; twelve of these have railroad 
facilities for shipping coal. The Appanoose Coal Company is 
located at Cincinnati, on the Chicago, Burlington & Kansas City 
railroad. There are other mines in the county that do a good 
business in the winter season, but have to haul their coal to the 
railroad with teams. There are five mines at Centreville that 
have excellent shipping facilities. The Scandinavian Coal Com- 
pany and the Centreville Coal Company are located on the 
Keokuk & Western railroad.. The Watson Coal Company, the 
Diamond Mine No. 2 and the Standard Coal Company are 
located on the southwestern branch of the Chicago, Rock 
Island & Pacific railroad. The Standard mine has excellent 
railroad facilities for shipping coal on the Chicago, Rock Island 
& Pacific and on the Keokuk & Western railroads. The mine 
at Numa, seven miles west of Centreville, on the Chicago, Rock 
Island & Pacific, has facilities for shipping coal. There are 
live mines at Brazil — the Walnut Coal Company, the Philby 
Coal Company, the Tipton Coal Company, the Hawk Eye Coal 
Company and B. F. Silknetter — either slope or drift mines and 
operated with mule power. All do a shipping business on the 
Keokuk & Western railroad. The vein here is about two feet 
ten inches in thickness and of the lower coal measures. Two 
mines here are worked on the long wall system — the Philby 
mine and the Walnut mine. The others are on the room and 
pillar system. The Elden mine No. 2 is located west of Cen- 
treville, formerly known as the Co-operative mine, and has no 
railroad facilities for shipping coal. The Diamond mine 
No. I and McLard mine are located at Centreville and 
do a large local business. This county produced in 1886 
150,000 tons of coal; in 1887 it produced 160,351 tons, 
being an increase of 10,351 tons. The mines in this county 



196 



IOWA LEAVES. 



are prepared to largely increase their output whenever the 
demand calls for it. 

Appanoose, aside from her large coal beds, has as tine farm- 
ing lands as are found in the state of Iowa. The shiprrtents of 
cattle, hogs and horses foot up large sums every year in her 
section of country, while the dairy interests are equal to any in 




WALNUT COAL COMPANY, CENTREVILLE. 



the blue grass regions. The drainage is excellent and bounti- 
ful harvests reward the farmer evey year for his labor. 
Abundance of pure fresh water flows through these regions and 
the climate is all that is desirable — neither too cold in winter 
nor too warm in summer. 



IOWA LEAVES. 



197 



Centreville is the county seat of Appanoose and is beauti- 
fully situated in the center of the county on the Chicago, Rock 
Island & Pacific railroad and on the Wabash & St. Louis, while 
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad passes through the 
southern portion of the county. Centreville is one of the best 
towns in southern Iowa and commands a large trade from a rich 
surrounding country. All classes of business are established 
here, while her merchants are composed of an enterpising and 




DIAMOND COAL COMPANY, CENTREVILLE. 

liberal class, ready at all times to furnish every advantage per- 
taining to the advancement of their city and county. The 
business blocks in this city are solidly built, which denotes busi- 
ness prosperity, while handsome homes adorn the residence 
portion. Elegant school buildings and an efficient school sys- 
tem are two things of which Centreville is justl}^ proud, while 
costly churches of all denominations find a permanent home 
here. The inhabitants of Centreville are an educated and 



198 IOWA LEAVES. 

charitable people and royally welcome all strangers who may 
enter her gates, and by the elegant display in the blue grass 
palace Appanoose has introduced herself to thousands of people 
from other countries, who are deeply impressed, not only with 
her beautiful exhibit, but also with the great natural resources 
which she possesses. When the blue grass palace opens in 
August next, no doubt she will come forward with a far more 
elaborate display in honor of the king of the blue grass regions 
than she has yet made; therefore, we kindly invite those seek- 
ing homes in the great west or in the state of Iowa to look 
favorably upon the many natural advantages possessed by 
Appanoose county. 

LUCAS COUNTY. 

The next county which claims our attention in the blue 
grass carnival is that of Lucas, situated between Monroe and 
Clark, in the second tier from the Missouri line, with Marion 
and Warren on the north, while Wayne joins lands with her on 
the south, forming a separating line between the coal palace 
regions of southeastern Iowa and the blue grass regions of the 
southwest portion of our great state. 

Lucas county is noted for its deep, fertile soil, which never 
wears out, and for its great mineral resources, there being at 
the present time thirteen coal mines in operation in the county. 
The principal ones are at Cleveland, on the main line of the 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, which affords them 
excellent facilities for the shipping of coal. The products of 
these mines are shipped to western Iowa and Nebraska, the 
coal being of excellent quality for steam and domestic pur- 
poses. The White Breast Coal company has 5,000 acres of 
land between Lucas and Chariton, on the main line of the 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad. 



IOWA LEAVES. 199 

The next largest mine is at Zero, on the main line of 
the"Q./'the products of which are mostly shipped to Ne- 
braska. There are quite a number of smaller mines in the 
vicinity of Chariton, all doing a good coal business. The 
soil in Lucas county yields unusually large returns to the 
farmers of their section, abundant crops being grown here 
every year. 

The exhibit in the palace is arranged on pyramid steps, 
covered with cream colored muslin, on which are skillfully 
arranged flowers, fruits, grasses, vegetables and grain and all 
varieties of seeds. What elegant corn they grow in Lucas! 
is a common remark heard every day in the palace; we find 
it to be of excellent quality and quantity, both on the stalk 
and in jars, while numerous large, round, tilled ears occupy con- 
spicuous places throughout the whole exhibit. The displays of 
oats and wheat denote prolific growth, while elegant samples of 
barley, millet and flax are shown. The quantity and quality of 
timothy, blue grass and clover seed are very fine and Lucas is 
certainly very rich in her landscape, luxuriant meadows and 
pasture lands. The display of fruits is a subject of much con- 
versation among: visitors to this eletrant booth and Lucas can 
certainly boast of fine orchards and vine}ards. The small 
fruits put up in glass jars by the fair ladies of Lucas are a sur. 
prise. Blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, currants, goose- 
berries and an excellent line of home-made jellies. 

What a magnificent fruit production is this placed before 
the admiring eyes of thousands in the blue grass palace. A 
veritable "garden patch" is represented here, filled with all the 
different varieties of well-matured vcijetables gfrown in this lat- 
itude, and speaks volumes for the fertility of Lucas county 
soil. Cabbages, carrots, beets, turnips, onions, egg plants, pota- 



200 IOWA LEAVES. 

toes, squashes, pumpkins, peppers; in fact, everything in the 
vegetable hne are seen in this booth. 

The pubHc schools of Chariton occupy the entire west side 
with an elegant display of school work, which tells a splendid 
story of the interest manifested by the pupils of this city in their 
public school work. No city in the state can boast of better 
educational facilities than Chariton, county seat of Lucas count}'. 

The next prominent feature in this booth is the dairy 
interests of Lucas, represented by firkins of pure rich butter and 
a number of elegant cheeses. From this industry Lucas reaps 
immense profits every year, being looked after by an intelligent 
and wealthy class. 

The sample of native wood on exhibition from timber along 
the banks of her creeks and rivers indicates cheap fuel in this 
line also, as well as in coal. Sandstone and coal form another 
interesting and valuable exhibit in this booth, which speaks of 
cheap building material in her section. 

The beautiful decoration of the ceiling in this booth is 
made of grasses and grains and green corn on the stalk, artistic- 
ally arranged, while several pieces of esthetic fancy work adorn 
the side walls. Handsome photographs of fine county buildings, 
city and farm residences occupy prominent places here and 
there throughout this elegant boudoir. Lucas is certainly rich 
in her landed possessions and she has not been at all backward 
in bringing together a most excellent showing of the prod- 
ucts of her soil, placing them before the great king of the blue 
grass regions and a multitude of invited guests. 

Chariton, the county seat of Lucas county, is beautifully 
located on the main line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy 
railroad, or Blue Grass route, and contains 4,000 inhabitants and 
is one of the best towns in the state of Iowa. 



IOWA LEAVES. 201 

The business portion of the city is soHclly built of fine brick 
blocks, while the streets are broad and attractive — pleasing to 
the eye of all visitors who may be sojourning in the city. Nu- 
merous classes of business are established here and merchants 
are active in supplying the wants of a large and wealthy 
country tributary. 

The residence portion of the city contains some very ele- 
gant homes and tasty cottages, while fine, commodious school 
buildings are seen in every ward. 

Chariton dotes on her churches, which are a source of great 
pride to all her people; therefore, all denominations of the 
Christian religion find a pleasant and permanent home in 
this city. 

The citizens of Chariton are an aristocratic and hospitable 
class of people and are adepts in the art of entertaining strangers 
who may be sojourning in their city, while the farmers through- 
out the country surrounding her are an honest, zealous class 
who till the soil, being sure of good crops every year, raise 
stock for the market, make butter and cheese, improve their 
homes, train and educate their children, taking at all times great 
pride in their churches. 

The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad passes through 
the heart of the city from east to west, while a handsome brick 
depot with limestone trimmings is a leading ornament to 
Chariton. Hutchison & Abel, hotel men of fame, run the ele- 
gant hotel in connection with the depot, where the traveler may 
have the pleasure of sitting down to the very best meals served 
on the continent. The delicious viands served by Hutchison 
& Abel cannot fail to please the taste of the most fastidious 
epicurean, being served in the most perfect and satisfactory 
manner at all times. These noted gentlemen also control the 



202 IOWA LEAVES. 

depot hotels at Ottumwa, Burlington and Red Oak, Iowa, where 
mfeals are served in the same elegant style as at Chariton. 
A line of road branches out from Chariton north to Des 
Moines and one south to St. Joseph, Mo., both through a fine 
agricultural country. Lucas is a great stock country and hun- 
dreds of cars of the same are shipped yearly to otlier markets, 
always finding ready sale. Abundance of fresh water and rich 
blue grass pastures make her one of the finest grazing countries 
in the west. The lay of the land is such in Lucas that elegant 
crops are grown here every year and the farmer liberally 
rewarded for his labor; therefore, she is a favored spot in the 
noted blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa. Her people 
are a prosperous and happ}' race and when a stranger from less 
favored regions comes west in search of permanent homes we 
can only say: Pass not by, but stop in Lucas and look carefully 
through her section and note her many excellent and natural 
advantages. 

CLARKE COUNTY. 

And now we have come to Clarke county and our interest 
grows deeper and deeper the longer we travel together through 
the Eden of the new world and through her palace so marvel- 
ously constructed of the products of her soil, which we can 
only compare to the hanging gardens of Babylon — so grand and 
magnificent that seemingl}' some mysterious hand has wrought 
the elaborate decorations instead of having been made by those 
belonging to human beings. 

The latchstring on the entrance to Clarke's romantic abode 
hangs on the outside and we take advantage of the extended 
hospitality and pass in to gaze upon the royal holiday attire in 
which she presents herself to the world. We find her glitter- 
ing, as it were, with all the many beautiful things which her 



IOWA LEAVES. 203 

country affords. E\'en the king is very lavish in his admira- 
tion of Clarke's handsome showing in the palace and of her 
marvelous resources. 

The ceiling decorations are unsurpassed in the palace, 
having the appearance of a luxuriant meadow ready for the 
harvest, while in the center is a star made of red and white 
beans. Three sides of this booth have been decorated for the 
eyes of an admiring public in all the rich products which her 
soil affords and when we have examined them we are proud 
to name Iowa our native state. 

The fruits which adorn the tables in this booth are very 
fine, and judging from the exhibit the orchards in her section 
are thrifty spots and filled with luscious, rosy-cheeked apples, 
the soil being perfectly adapted to the successful cultivation 
of fruits. 

The vegetables rank with any we have yet seen in the 
palace, while the product of the dairy forms a very interesting 
feature; jars of sweet, fresh butter, and elegant creamy cheese 
are shown, from which she reaps large profits every year. 

The public schools of Osceola have an excellent exhibit of 
their public school work on the south wall, which speaks 
volumes for the educational interests of Clarke county. Fine 
pictures of county, buildings, churches, schools, city and farm 
residences adorn the north wall. 

Osceola is the county seat of Clarke county, on the main 
line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, about 
thirty-three miles east of Creston. A branch line runs north 
from here to Dcs Moines and south to Leon, in Decatur county. 

Clarke county is noted for its productive soil, bountiful 
harvests, beautiful landscapes and as being one of the very best 
stock counties in the west. The homes of the farmers in these 



204 IOWA LEAVES. 

regions are teeming with thrift, prosperity and comfort. The 
Grand river and tributaries, which flow through all portions of 
the county, afford an excellent supply of pure water for stock, 
while the native timber along their banks furnishes cheap fuel for 
her fires. The prairies and valleys are carpeted with a rich, 
velvety verdure of blue grass, on which hundreds of cattle 
graze the year round in moderate seasons. Much attention has 
been given to fruit culture in this county during the last few 
years and all kinds of apples, cherries, grapes, plums, pears 
and small fruits may be produced in great abundance by proper 
cultivation. The farmers generally raise all the apples needed 
for their own use, while many barrels have been shipped to 
other markets. 

There is but little wild, open land in tnis county, which is 
timber land; nothing but improved farms in Clarke. 

Osceola is a prosperous town of about 3,000 inhabitants, 
where numerous classes of business are established, which are 
necessary in supplying a wealthy tributary territory, while the 
merchants are an upright, honest and liberal class. 

The various religious denominations all have church homes 
in this picturesque town, each having a large membership, 
while as handsome a court-house and grounds as is found in the 
state is seen in this city. Osceola would not for the world 
be behind the times in this valuable improvement. Neither 
would Clarke county, for it is a very necessary and valuable 
one. 

Elegant school buildings are seen here and her public 
school system is an efficient one; the residence portion of the 
city is filled with costly residences and tasteful cottages, 
while all her people are contented and happy, being a wide- 
awake and liberal-minded class. 



IOWA LEAVES. 205 

The business portion of the city is soHdly built and the 
streets wide and prettily bordered by shade trees, making it a 
lovely residence town. If any person living in the cramped-up 
eastern states contemplates moving west, he can safely come to 
this section of country and find all that is desirable in a com- 
fortable and profitable home among the enterprising people of 
Clarke county, who, in common with her sister counties of the 
blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa, produces pasturage 
and hay that cannot be excelled on the earth ; her tame pastures, 
and especially her winter blue grass pastures, are her pride, as 
they are the source of profit for her well-to-do and intelligent 
farmers and stock-growers. 

Clarke has made a lasting impression on the multitude by 
the excellent display she has made in the blue grass palace and 
all hope to again meet her in the palace of 1891 and also in 
the Iowa exhibit at the world's fair in 1893. 

WARREN COUNTY. 

The next display of interest and beauty which we would 
kindly invite the reader to accompany us through is the one 
made by Warren county. She has come up to the palace dec- 
orated with genius and skill and all visitors are delighted as 
they look upon her elegant apartments. Warren is one of the 
richest among the eighteen comprising the blue grass regions, 
and lies immediately north of Clarke and Lucas, joining lands 
with Marion county on the east, while Madison bounds her on 
the west and Polk on the north. 

Indianola is the county seat of Warren, situated on the 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, or Blue Grass route, 
which passes through the county entire from north to south, 
while the Rock Island & Pacific penetrates her section from 



206 IOWA LEAVES. 

northeast to southwest, affording excellent facilities for ship- 
ping purposes. 

It is also one of the richest in coal in the state, having 
twenty coal mines in operation. The principal ones are the 
Lumesden Bros, and the Summerset Coal company. The vein 
of coal here is three feet and one-half in thickness and is of the 
middle coal measures; it is of excellent quality. There are 
four mines on Middle river, three miles south of Summerset, all 
doing a good business. The mines at Lacona and Milo are 
operated in the upper vein of coal, which is from fourteen to 
eighteen inches in thickness, and are dependent upon local sales 
for their business. This county does not produce much coal 
for the number of mines it has in operation, as the railroads do 
not run in the right direction; therefore, it is handicapped for 
the want of an outlet in western markets. It produced in 1889 
24,796 tons. 

The fruit culture is one of Warren's best interests; there- 
fore, an excellent variety of apples, grapes, pears and plums is 
shown in this booth, arranged on long white tables, while 
numerous jars of all kinds of small fruits are displayed, tempt- 
ing the appetite of all visitors to the palace. 

The excellent grain exhibit, placed here in open sacks, 
denotes that Warren's soil is well adapted to the raising of all 
kinds of grains which grow in our latitude, while the vegetables 
are of excellent qualit}^ another proof of her elegant soil. 

The display of seeds, especially those of blue grass, timothy 
and clover, tells of fine meadows and pastures in her section, 
which for grazing and producing tame grasses cannot be sur- 
passed in the state of Iowa, nor in the great west, not even 
excepting the blue grass regions of old Kentucky. The blue 
grass regions of Iowa are fast discounting that famed land, not 



IOWA LEAVES. 207 

only in the production of blue grass, but in fine stock as well. 
No scn(l) stock in Warren county. Excellent butter and 
cheese are seen here, which compare favorably with those from 
other counties in the blue grass regions, and Warren ships 
thousands of pounds of the same every year, which tind ready 
sale on the markets of the south and east. 

. Warren county is blessed with everything which goes to- 
ward the making up of a happy country, but needs a few more 
people. She is blessed with good schools, cozy churches, sub- 
stantial bridges, highways and railroads. 

Farm lands are constantly on the increase and good houses, 
barns, fences and orchards are being placed upon them, which 
compare with any of those seen in our eastern states, and she is 
ready to welcome at any time the strangers who may be seek- 
ing a home in the west, and to any who are willing to cast 
their lot with hers' in the famous blue grass belt she extends a 
cordial welcome. 

Indianola, the county seat of Warren, is situated in the heart 
of a great agricultural region and contains a hospitable, charita- 
ble and liberal-minded class of people, while neat churches and 
school buildings, pretty residences and cottages are seen scat- 
tered throughout the entire village. 

The country surrounding Indianola is noted for the pretty 
landscapes and the great fertility of its soil, which grows boun- 
tiful crops every year, and the farmers of this section are an 
enterprising and wealthy class. A large supply of timber grows 
along the banks of the Middle river, North ri\er and Badger 
creek, adding to the beauty of her landscapes and affording 
cheap fuel for her inhabitants and shelter for stock in winter. 

Warren can well afford to parade her great resources 
before a multitude and she will no doubt come forth to the 



208 IOWA LEAVES. 

palace of 1891 with all the pride and splendor which her country 
knows so well how to assume and all her many advantages will 
be proclaimed to the world. Hurrah for Warren! 

MADISON COUNTY. 

Madison county joins Warren on the east, Union and 
Clarke on the south, Adair on the west and Dallas on the north. 

Madison is proud of her name and proud of her country, 
and she has no intention of being outrivaled by her adjoining 
sisters in the famed blue grass regions; therefore, she has come 
forth to the palace bedecked in all the fine products of her soil. 
The king seems greatly pleased with the offering she makes 
in the carnival and looks upon her with eyes of favor. 

The ceiling and side walls in this booth are handsomely 
decorated, while the most novel and interesting centerpiece in 
the entire palace is displayed herein. Reader, guess what it is; 
can you.'' A real log cabin constructed of fifty-six different 
kinds of wood, all native of Madison, and is roofed over with 
clapboards, the style and finish being of the famous Daniel 
Boone pattern, handsomely wrought out in the rude construc- 
tion. The latchstring hangs gracefully on the outside, which 
means "walk in; you are welcome." 

On the corner of this novel cabin are seen strings of quar- 
tered apples and pumpkins hung up to dry for the winter's use. 
Coon skins are tacked up along one side, while mole skins adorn 
the back part and a large, old commonplace chimney runs from 
the ground up, with a fireplace on the inside. This cabin is a 
drawing card and Madison has caught the crowds every day 
by this novel exhibit. How often these words fell on our ear 
while paying a visit to Madison's magnificent apartment: "The 
happiest days of our life were spent in a log cabin and it does 
our hearts good to look upon one once more." 



IOWA LEAVES. 209 

Judging from the display made here, Madison is certainly 
blessed with an overflow of all the luscious fruits in season, for 
her wigwam is tilled with apples, grapes, peaches, pears and 
plums skillfully arranged by artistic hands from Madison's beau- 
tiful section and, as we look upon this display made by her in 
the palace of grass, we can look beyond into beautiful brown 
orchards laden with fruit ready for the fall gathering. 

The display of vegetables would surprise the good old 
James Madison himself could he look upon these products of the 
soil from the county which bears his name, for the}' are indeed 
beautiful. 

The grain exhibit is fine and without a rival; corn in the 
ear and shelled corn in sacks, oats in the stalk and in glass jars, 
wheat, millet, rye, barley and flax in sacks, open for inspection^ 
all denote luxuriant growth and are pleasing to the eyes of all 
farmers from other lands. Madison holds the edge on fine 
grain, while her dairy interests near-by are the subject of much 
comment by all visitors to the palace. Excellent butter and 
cheese, two of the leading industries in her regions, are shown 
here in the finest quality. 

Winterset is the county seat of Madison county and is 
situated on the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific railroad; it is 
one of the oldest towns in the state and was one of the principal 
stopping-places in the old stage time in southwestern Iowa 
before her successful introduction to railroads. 

Winterset is a flourishing town of about 2,000 inhabitants, 
all classes of business having been established here which arc 
necessary in supplying the wants of a beautiful surrounding- 
country. Her business blocks are of a substantial nature, while 
pretty churches and school buildings adorn the city and arc a 
source of pride to her people. Winterset is also a city of 



210 IOWA LEAVES. 

pleasant homes and contains an enterprising and thrifty class 
of people. 

The soil in Madison county is very cieep and proauccive 
and elegant crops are grown here every 3 ear, and for the suc- 
cessful growing of hay and all kinds of grasses known to our 
latitude she is one of the very best in the boundless west and 
no country on the continent affords as many natural advantages 
for the growing of stock as Madison county. There is scarcely 
a section of land in the county but has a good supply of water, 
while large quantities of native timber afford plenty of cheap 
fuel for her inhabitants, which add beauty to her landscapes 
and are excellent shelter for stock. 

Beautiful homes, elegant farms, prosperous towns and 
villages with excellent railroad facilities make a pretty picture 
for the traveler passing through this section of country. The 
climate is all that is desirable, not cold as a rule in winter, while 
the atmosphere is generally dry and invigorating. 

Iowa has a steady and permanent growth and her climate 
is as flexible and inviting as any in the land. Nearly every 
farmer in the blue grass regions is a cattle grower; he raises 
them in his pastures the same as a Kentuckian does in the 
vicinity of Lexington. They "grow up" with the country and 
do not need cultivation. A farmer with only forty acres of 
land has a bunch of steers and like a Kentuckian, "eats steer" 
and "talks steer" like a veteran. Large shipments of cattle, 
horses, hogs and sheep are made from this county every year. 
Southwestern Iowa has become famous as a great stock country 
and the finest improved stock horses that money can buy, both 
in draught and roadsters, are found in this section. Thousands 
of horses are shipped from the blue grass regions every vear to 
the eastern and southern markets. 



IOWA LEAVES. 211 

Southwestern Iowa is recognized by her horses as well as 
by her cattle. A number of the fast horses in these regions are 
already making their mark in the annals of the turf and we 
doubt if any other section of country can show as great a per- 
centage of blooded animals of all kinds. Scrub stock is a curi- 
osity in the blue grass regions. Madison, your excellent exhibit 
in the blue grass palace has been the means of heralding your 
name and fame abroad, even in other lands, and the king kindly 
invites you to come again and share in the feast and festivities 
in the carnival of 1891. Come forth with your fruits and a por- 
•tion of 3'our elegant products of the soil, the dairy and estimates 
of all your yearly shipments, and lastly, don't forget to bring up 
the old log cabin initiated by the handiwork of a Daniel Boone. 

ADAIR COUNTY. 

Now, readers, let us go forth into the abode of romantic 
Adair, which cosily nestles between her two sisters, Madison 
and Cass, while Guthrie kindly looks upon her from the north 
and another fair sister called Union waits lovingly upon her 
from the south country. 

Adair's bashful charms are enhanced by a thousand 
natural advantages and the "half has never been told." She is 
led forth to the blue srrass carniv^al in all the lavish decorations 
made from the products of a wonderful soil, and the king of the 
blue grass regions looks upon her with eyes of great favor, and 
has allowed her the sweet privilege of choosing foi' herself one 
of the most convenient locations within this elegant domicile. 

Adair is certainly the garden spot of the blue grass regions. 
Nature has been very lavish in the distribution of her gifts 
throughout this section of country; lovely brooks and rivers, 
hills and valleys and beautiful meadows waving with blossoms 



212 IOWA LEAVES. 

greet the eye of the traveler in passing through her section of 
country. 

Adair is noted for her elegant blue grass pasture lands and 
as having the most fertile soil under the heavens. Field after 
field of golden grain, whose tints are as mellow as the beauti- 
ful azure sky which shines above them, present themselves in 
due season to the traveler as he passes through her garden 
of Eden. 

What an excellent showing of all these precious gifts Adair 
is making in the blue grass palace of 1890! The fair ladies 
of her beautiful section have shown the multitude what they 
can do in the way of artistic decorations. The ceiling of this 
booth is decorated with corn, oats, grass and wheat, manipu- 
lated with perfect skill, while the side walls are artistic in effect 
and coloring. A novel centerpiece is formed of a large square 
covered with all the elegant varieties of grains and grasses 
grown in Adair county, on which is a horse and sleigh made 
entirely of the products of her soil. This sleigh is as perfect in 
form as if manufactured b}' Beggs Bros, of Creston, Iowa, and 
contains an occupant made of grasses and grains and different 
varieties of seeds. Judging by the manner in which he holds 
his lines, we are led to believe he may be one of Adair's bash- 
ful young men driving out for his best girl. A heavy mus- 
tache of red corn silk adorns the upper lip of this handsome 
young "Robin Adair" and the waxed curl which he has given it 
cannot be duplicated, although many young gentlemen living in 
these regions have practiced the twirl; but all of no avail. 

A beautiful charger made of corn, typical of that raised 
in Adair county, pulls this sleigh, while the attractive harness is 
made of plaited blue grass. This pretty picture attracts large 
crowds to a fiue piece of artistic work. We turn from this 



IOWA LEAVES. 213 

unique picture to look upon another equally as inviting, and 
caps the climax for genuine skill; it is a complete representa- 
tion of D. Dunlap's elevator at Fontanelle, in this county, and 
perfect in every detail. This building is constructed of red 
shelled corn, with white corn trimmings, and the words "D. II. 
Dunlap's Elevator" run along the side, the letters being formed 
of white grains of corn; a miniature railroad passes along one 
side of this pretty elevator, on which a number of cars are 
standing and are being loaded with corn, wheat, oats, timothy 
and blue grass seed. What a wonderful advertisement this 
of Adair's productive soil! What a beautiful display of 
enterprise and genius! Large crowds linger around it ever}' 
day, watching the grain pour down the grain spouts into 
the cars, read}- for shipping to the markets of the south 
and east. 

We turn again and we are confronted by an unusually 
large Newfoundland dog, made entirely of blue grass heads 
and hitched to a cart constructed of seeds from Adair's romantic 
section. This cart is occupied by a lovely child, clothed in all 
the beautiful flowers of the fields, and she holds a pair of lines 
in her little hands, made of plaited grasses, by which she grace- 
fully guides the noble animal which seems very proud of the 
honor he bears in waiting upon his little mistress. The most 
surprising figure in this booth is a horse, life size, made entirely 
of blue grass heads, true to life as it stands here in all its beauty, 
seemingly gentle as a lamb, and reined up by a pretty bridle of 
plaited corn blades. This is another production of Adair's skill 
and enterprise, demonstrating the fact to all visitors that the 
horses raised in Adair's section of country are blue grass fed. 
This horse has attracted thousands of people to romantic 
Adair's museum. A sheep perfect in form, made of a rich 



214 IOWA LEAVES. 

growth of oat and wheat heads, is another wonderful drawing 
feature, representing a fine quality of wool. 

Blue grass, timothy and red top grow ver}^ prolifically in 
romantic Adair, and the greatest living curiosity in the blue 
grass region is seen in her booth, a real, live man with a lux- 
uriant orrowth of blue g-rass whiskers which the soft winds of 
Adair have turned to somber brown. Live specimens of 
" red top " grass are also shown, denoting a growth of over 
six feet. 

Many other pieces of artistic work, manipulated by Adair's 
fair sons and daughters, are seen in this booth which we cannot 
describe at this time in this work, so we will pass on to the dis- 
play of fruits, which are elegant ; luscious red and yellow apples, 
peaches, pears, plums and grapes adorn her tables, while the 
vegetables are wonderful to look upon; every kind that are 
known to grow in this latitude are seen here in great profusion. 
Adair's orchards and gardens are always filled with abundant 
crops every year, furnishing not only an ample supply for home 
use, but large quantities are shipped to other markets. 

The grain exhibit, both in the stalk and in sacks, open for 
inspection, denotes a wonderful growth in the soil of romantic 
Adair, the fertility of which knows no rival, and in the hazy 
distance we can see fields of golden grain and waving corn 
yielding rich returns to the farmers of her section every 3'ear. 
Adair takes great pride in her dairies, and firkins of rich 
butter and samples of elegant cheese occupy a prominent 
place in this booth, which tell of fine blue grass pastures and 
running streams of water, which are very necessary to any 
country in order to produce milk, butter and cheese, and some 
of the finest butter placed on the markets of the country comes 
from Adair county. 



IOWA LEAVES. 



215 



A tine quality of brick is shown in this booth from the 
Fontanelle kihi, excellent for building purposes. Coal has been 
discovered in this county, but as yet has not been extensively 
mined. It is a positive fact that thick, rich veins underlie her 
whole section and the day is not far distant when extensive 
mines will be opened up throughout the county. 

Branches of the Grand river, Middle Nodaway and Middle 
river all pass through this county, affording an excellent water 
supply, while the native timber along their banks adds beaut}' to 
her landscapes and the valleys furnish excellent pasturage for 
hundreds of cattle and horses which graze on them the year 
round in moderate seasons. 

Adair has become famous as a great stock country and 
large shipments of the same are made from this section at all 
seasons of the year. 

Greenfield, Fontanelle, Orient, Spaulding, Cumberland and 
Messena are the principal towns along the line of the Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy railroad, and Adair and Stuart on the 
Rock Island. 

The lay of the land in this county is the most beautiful in 
the state, just rolling enough so that crops are not damaged by 
wet seasons, while the soil is so peculiarly adapted that drouth 
has little effect. 

Greenheld is the county seat of Adair county, situated on 
the Cumberland branch of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy 
railroad, or Blue Grass route; it is a pretty village with cosy 
homes, churches and school buildings; neat business blocks are 
seen here and all classes of business are established necessary 
in supplying a wealthy surrounding country. 

Fontanelle is a lovely town about seven miles west of 
Greenfield on the same line of road and is situated on a high 



216 IOWA LEAVES. 

Upland looking down on one of the most beautiful and fertile 
counties on the continent. Numerous branches of business are 
located here, while her citizens are noted far and wide as an intelli- 
gent and enterprising class. Cosy churches and pretty school 
buildings adorn this place and are a source of pride to her 
people, whose hospitality is unlimited. 

The farmers of Adair are an honest, upright body of 
zealous workers, who till the soil, raise cattle for the markets, 
improve their homes and are, of course, a prosperous, happy 
and contented people. Is it any wonder that a prominent blue 
grass lawyer from Fontanelle, while proclaiming the great 
resources of his own county in the beautiful auditorium at the 
palace of 1890, so far forgot himself and called his county the 
"state of Adair." 

Lovely, romantic Adair! We hope to have the pleasure 
of meeting 3'ou again in the blue grass palace of 1891 and 
that you will place your exhibit of the wonderful products of 
your soil in the Iowa exhibit at the world's fair in 1893. 
The world would like the satisfaction of gazing upon the greatest 
museum ever produced from the products of the soil, in any 
country, which only Adair county can make. 

CASS COUNTY. 

Cass, 3'ou are lovely to look upon in the blue grass palace 
and the glorious array of pride and splendor in which }'Ou have 
come up to the palace city is indeed wonderful. Your magnifi- 
cent caravan is seemingly loaded down to the utmost capacity 
with all the products of your native county. Your elegant 
decorations are grand, even beyond description and thousands 
of admiring e3'es are turned toward your lovely apartment in 
the king's beautifully decorated palace. Three sides of your 



JOWA LEAVES. 217 

elegant booth have been decorated for pubHc gaze, each pre- 
senting a charming appearance, while the huge cornucopia of 
canned goods in the center is a surprise, even to people living 
in your own count}', and when we gaze on the boxes of pure, 
glossy starch and line toilet soaps, which surround the canned 
goods, a hidden secret has been revealed, and thousands of 
visitors have learned that you are not only rich in agricultural 
resources, but in thrifty enterprise as well, which Iowa is proud 
to claim as her own. 

The next interesting exhibit is arranged on neat tables, 
spread with creamy material, consisting of fruits, grasses, 
grain and vegetables, all products of Cass county. Corn is 
king, elegant, large, full, rounded ears of which are shown here, 
which speak volumes for the quality of her soil. 

Oats, wheat, barley, r3'e, millet, flax and broom corn of 
wonderful growth are displayed, abundant crops of all being 
raised here every year. The vegetables displayed here are fine 
and the inhabitants of Cass county need never fear a famine 
while her soil is so productive and grows such vegetables. 
Blue grass, timothy and clover seed are shown here in large 
quantities and as we look upon them we can see beautiful past- 
ures and meadows waving with red and white clover blossoms. 
The dairy interests of Cass are largely represented in jars of 
sweet, yellow butter and elegant samples of cheese from her 
manufactories. Cass is well up to her sister counties in the 
products of the dairy and shows large estimates of yearly ship- 
ments in this very valuable industry. 

Atlantic is the county seat of Cass count}', situated on the 
Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific railroad, which passes through 
the county from east to west, while the Chicago, Burlington & 
Quincy penetrates the southern portion, affording excellent 



218 IOWA LEAVES. 

transportation and shipping facilities for all her inhabitants. 
Atlantic is a thorough type of an enterprising western city. 
Her citizens are chuck full of energy and grit and are hustlers 
for their city and county. Her merchants are gentlemen of the 
highest type and know just how to treat their friends nnd cus- 
tomers and the stranger sojourning from other lands will also 
meet with the same hospitality as is generally extended to the 
most distinguished guest. 

There is no prettier country in the state of Iowa than is 
found in Cass county in the blue grass regions. The lay of the 
land in her section is a glorious sight to behold, while the com- 
fortable homes of her farmers are indicative of enterprise and 
contentment. Abundant crops and full barns are a source of 
great pride to her people and Cass possesses every advantage 
enjoyed only in the best farming regions of the state. 

As a stock country Cass cannot be excelled in the west ; 
some of the finest horses, cattle, hogs and sheep in the state are 
found in her section and large shipments of the same are made 
at all seasons of the year from Atlantic and Anita on the Chi- 
cago, Rock Island & Pacific and from Griswold on the Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy. 

The valleys of the Nishnabotana river, Indian creek, Seven 
Mile creek and the Tarkis river abound in the richest blue 
grass pastures in the world and hundreds of cattle graze in 
them the year round in moderate seasons, while the streams 
furnish them an excellent supply of pure water. The banks 
along these streams are covered with a heavy growth of native 
timber furnishing cheap fuel for her fires. 

All in all, Cass county is one of the most productive in 
the blue grass regions, while her people are an intelligent and 
aristocratic class and when the blue grass carnival of 1891 is 



IOWA LEAVES. 219 

thrown open and King Blue Grass is in one of his happiest 
moods Cass will be seen rolling on toward the palace city of 
Creston in chariots of gold, loaded down with all the products 
of a year's labor, which she will place before the king and 
thousands of people from far-off countries, who will be perfectly 
enraptured, as it were, with her magnificent decorations. 

POTTAWATTAMIE COUNTY. 

Now, reader, we shall in a very short time have completed 
the great journey of the blue grass regions and palace, and now 
our eyes rest last, but not least, on Pottawattamie's bower of 
genius and beauty, which for true elegance is unsurpassed in 
the palace. She has been most lavish in her decorations in honor 
of the king of the blue grass regions and has spared no pains 
to make her exhibit the most worthy yet placed before him. 
Lovely bouquets of flowers of all shades and colorings occupy 
prominent positions throughout this booth, sending forth a rich 
perfume to all passing through her magnificent apartments. 

The first object of interest which we look upon in this 
novel booth is a ''blue grass widow,'' life size, and bedecked in all 
the gay products of Pottawattamie's soil. Her attitude is a 
striking one, as she gracefully holds forth on a pedestal of grain 
and grasses grown in the county, and her smiles are killing from 
underneath a poke bonnet made of plaited oats, straw and 
trimmed with all the field flowers it can possiblv hold. She 
has chosen the national flower for her favorite color and she 
carries a large bouquet of golden rod in her left hand. She is 
attired in a combination suit of all the different varieties of 
grasses known in Pottawattamie's fertile section, blue grass 
predominating largely in the make up. The cut and style of 
this dress are from the latest French mod/s/e's decollete eu train 



220 IOWA LEAVES. 

and an elegant necklace of solid grains of red corn adorns her 
alabaster neck, while the bracelets which clasp her arms are of 
the same valuable material. This widow is greatly admired by 
the bachelors and widowers in the blue grass regions, and espe- 
cially by one who has come up to the palace as her escort and 
''best fellow," who stands near her with the same graceful atti- 
tude that adorns a statue, and the green-eyed monster is plainly 
visible at times, for his black eyes flash with rage as he notes 
the many compliments passed on the "widder" by numerous 
gentlemen while passing through Pottawattamie's beautiful 
wigwam. This figure is a product of Pottawattamie's fine 
orchards, having been constructed entirely of those red, lus- 
cious and tempting apples which only Pottawattamie can 
produce. These two figures attract large crowds to Mont- 
gomery's elegant booth every day and have been admired 
by thousands. 

In another part of this apartment is a horse, life size, made 
of small white onions, such as the careful housewife in the blue 
grass regions pickles in the fall to eat with baked beans during 
the winter season. This pretty white horse is perfect in form 
and hitched up to a cart loaded with a large supply of vegeta- 
bles from Pottawattamie's fertile section, while the harness is an 
attractive piece of artistic work, being made of specked corn- 
field beans, or old-fashioned bird eyes. Pottawattamie is 
noted for quick ideas and projects which are no sooner conceived 
than put into effect — a fact fully demonstrated {n their exhibit 
in the blue grass palace — and her name has become famous 
throughout the land. An old gentleman, no doubt with an eye 
to matrimony, kindly asked the pleasant commissioner in this 
booth if there were any more of "them widders" in his section 
of country. To which the commissioner laughingly replied: 



IOWA LEAVES. 221 

"Yes, sir; lots of 'em. We are shipping them out every day by 
the ton/' 

While the products of the other two figures are being 
shipped out every day by the car load and all find excellent 
markets in the south and east. Long steps are ranged along 
three sides of this booth covered with delicate cream bunting, 
on which are displayed an excellent variety of fruits, grains, 
seeds and vegetables (tine apples especially and an index of 
Pottawattamie's orchards, which yield thousands of bushels 
ever\' year) and the small fruits put up in glass jars by her hos- 
pitable housewives tell a wonderful story of her prolific berry 
patches. The grain exhibit from these regions is elegant and 
a source of pride to her industrious farmers. Corn, oats, wheat, 
rye, barle}', millet, flax, broom corn and sorghum denote a fine 
growth, while corn on the stalk from the Missouri river valley 
measuring fifteen feet high is of miraculous growth, and the soil 
in the valley of the Missouri running along the entire western 
portion of the state has no rival on the continent in the produc- 
tion of corn. 

The dairy is largely represented in this booth in butter and 
cheese of the very finest grade and Pottawattamie reaps large 
profits from this valuable industry every year. 

Council Bluffs is the county seat of Pottawattamie county, 
situated in the Missouri river valley about four miles east of 
Omaha and has 30,000 inhabitants; it is one of the oldest towns 
in Iowa, having been settled as early as the year 1844, has 
had a steady growth and to-day assumes large proportions. 
This city has a fine location and contains some very handsome 
business property, the blocks being mostly built of solid brick, 
with one of the finest county buildings in tlic west, having cost 
the sum of $80,000. Elegant churches and fine hotels may be 



222 lOUA LEAVES. 

seen on every hand, while the state institution for the deaf and 
dumb has a handsome location and beautiful orrounds near the 
city. The buildings are commodious and built of brick, 
equipped with all modern improvements. What an elegant 
institution the state of Iowa has provided for this class of unfort- 
unates — a model home and every facility for improving the 
mind and body. 

All branches of business are established nere, the trade 
of which extends over large territories of countr}^ both north, 
south and east of the city. The Council Bluffs Board of Trade 
came nobly forward in the securing of this elegant display in 
the blue grass palace and came in a body to visit the great car- 
nival, being highl}^ delighted and royally entertained during 
their sojourn in the palace cit3\ Much credit is due this excel- 
lent organization for the energy displayed by them in the rapid 
advancement of this city and county; energetic and enterpris- 
ing, always on the alert for something advantageous to their 
beautiful city, such as the placing of this excellent exhibit of the 
products of her soil in the blue grass palace, demonstrates the 
fact that Council Bluffs is always ahead in every new enter- 
prise calculated to advance her interests. 

Pottawattamie is rich in the chief wealth of a nation — agri- 
culture — and no better farming land is found on the continent 
than her countr}' possesses and her vast area is covered with 
elegant, cultivated farms. Council Bluffs is the central point of 
one of the richest farming countries in the Union and her 
citizens are sanguine of future greatness. The rich valleys of 
the great Missouri and Nishnabatona rivers. Keg and Silver 
creeks afford excellent blue grass pasturage for stock, while the 
streams furnish water all the year round and large quantities 
of native timber of heavy growth supply her inhabitants with 



IOWA LEAVES. 223 

cheap fuel. Cattle, sheep, hogs and horses grow up with the 
country in this section, requiring but little feeding. Hundreds 
of car loads are shipped every year to eastern markets, finding 
ready sale. The grain, fruit and dairy shipments also foot up 
large sums, while her railroad facilities are the finest in the 
west. When we consider that seven trunk lines traverse her 
section, entering the city of Council Bluffs, and are as follows: 
The Chicago^ Burlington & Quincy; Chicago, Rock Island 
& Pacific; Chicago, INIinneapolis & St. Paul; Chicago & North- 
western; Omaha & St. Louis; Kansas City, St. Jo & Council 
Bluffs, and Union Pacific; therefore, the manufacturer, the stock 
grower, the grain merchant, the farmer, the city merchant all 
have excellent shipping facilities and rapid transportation in 
Pottawattamie county. When the blue grass palace of 1891 
opens to the world in August next a vast multitude will again 
have the pleasure of viewing Pottawattamie's numerous attrac- 
tions and even the lords of the British Isles will be pleased with 
her magnificent appearance. 

We have now completed the most romantic journey 
taken on the continent — throus^h the blue srass regions of 
southwestern Iowa and through the only blue grass palace 
under the shining sun. What do you think of it? We hope 
you have been both pleased and highly entertained in making 
the tour and hope that you may give them a personal visit and 
inspection in the year 1891. The palace has become a perma- 
nent feature in the blue grass regions at the palace city of 
Creston, Iowa, and will be opened to the world at large on 
August 19 next. This great industrial exposition will be 
held in connection with the Creston District Agricultural 
Fair, which always has wide attractions for all classes. The 
premium list for 1S91 has been revised and in many instances 



224 IOWA LEAVES. 

the premiums now offered are equal to those of the state fair. 
Ten thousand dollars has been appropriated for the speed 
department. This of itself warrants the assertion that as 
fine a field of horses and as grand exhibition of speed will 
be seen here as can be brought before the public on any fair 
ground in the great west. 

The decorations of the palace this season will far surpass 
those of former years described in this work and the entire 
building will be rebuilt and changed, so that those who may 
have viewed the one of 1890 will scarcely recognize any por- 
tion of the same connected with the one of 1891. Many new 
and attractive features will be added, among which will be a 
movable panorama, containing 100 pictures of actual scenes 
located in the blue grass regions. 

To all those living in the far east, west, north or south: 
Do not miss the unequaled opportunity of viewing the grand 
and artistic beauty of the only blue grass palace under the sun, 
filled with all the elegant agricultural products of the eighteen 
counties in the league, wrought in all the many beautiful and 
esthetic forms pleasing to the eye of the most fastidious per- 
sons. All these leading attractions combined with the finest 
exhibition of stock from this and adjoining states ever seen any- 
where in the west and the wonderful contests for premiums in 
speed ring. You could not select a more beautiful and elabo- 
rate exposition and fair to visit this fall, nor a more convenient 
time, nor meet with a more pleasant, enlightened and hospitable 
class of people than are found in the blue grass regions of south- 
western Iowa. 

Come all of ye Missourians, 

Ye Kansas folks and all, 
Up to the palace city 

And see the sights this fall. 



IOWA LEAVES. 225 

Come all ye Illinoisans, 

And ye Nebraskans too, 
And from far-off Wisconsin 

And look our palace through. 

Come ye from Minnesota, 

With your palace made of ice. 
Come down and try our climate; 

I'm sure you'll think it's nice. 

Come all ye eastern people. 

Come from the north and south 
And see our blue grass regions 

Where we never have a drouth. 

Come from the far-off Rockies, 

And from California too, 
And from the AUeghanies 

And look our palace through. 

Come all ye proud Hawk-Eyeans, 

Our work is nobly done; 
We have three of the greatest palaces 

Under the shining sun. 



The Burlington Route. 



THE BURLINGTON ROUTE. 



The traveler who rides over the Chicago, Burlington & 
Quincy road from Chicago to Denver sees one of the most 
beautiful, sublime, fertile and prosperous belts of country 
traversed by any railroad on the continent. This region has 
more cultivated country, beautiful and enterprising cities and 
villages and splendid opportunities for those seeking homes in 
the great west or for business than that tributary to any other 
line, for these reasons: The Burlington is pre-eminently the 
favorite route to and from all eastern points for the tourist or 
homeseeker, or those contemplating entering on business. 

The great World's Fair city, Chicago, situated on the 
beautiful shores of Lake Michigan, marks the eastern ter- 
minus of this great line of road, having over 1,000,000 inhabit- 
ants and covering hundreds of acres of land — over 170 square 
miles. The public parks alone cover 2,423 acres of land and 
the city has fifty miles of boulevards and 1,045 ""^il^s of streets. 

This great city is divided by a river into three divisions, 
which are legally known as south, west and north divisions; it 
has 6,731 manufactories, employing 252,280 men, women, boys 
and girls. Capital invested and employed, $499,925,000. 
Annual products and articles produced from wood, metal and 
other raw materials, $351,500,000. Thirty elevators furnish a 
storage capacity of 50,000,000 bushels of grain, the Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy's Elevator D being the largest. Four 

229 



230 IOWA LEAVES. 

hundred and sixty-three regular passenger and suburban trains 
arrive and depart daily and it has five handsome union depots 
and five one-corporation depots. 

The city also has 575 miles of street railways and two 
elevated roads near completion on the south and west sides and 
295 miles of beautiful driveways; has 155 hotels, seventeen first- 
class theaters, five museums and five permanent panoramas, all 
open the year round. The University of Chicago is the leading 
educational institution of Illinois, with one of the finest observa- 
tories in the United States. St. Ignatius College, the Presby- 
terian Theological Seminary, Northwestern Seminary and 
Garrett Biblical Institute at Evanston are prominent educa- 
tional institutions. Chicago has 415 churches and an efficient 
public school system. The Academy of Science, the Chicago 
Historical Society with its admirable collection of historical 
works, the Academy of Design, the reading room of the Young 
Men's Christian Association and other places of similar 
character are well worth visiting, and the traveler sojourning 
in the city will learn from seeing them that Chicago is not 
unmindful of the claims of higher education and higher attain- 
ments in the arts and sciences, notwithstanding it is a great 
commercial mart and enthusiastically devoted to commerce 
and business. Chicago ranks first commercially in the United 
States, second in manufactures and second in population and 
the states most intimately connected with it and whose wants 
are here principally supplied are Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Wis- 
consin, Minnesota, Kansas, Nebraska and Colorado. 

We stand amazed at the future which is spread out before 
this favored city with over 1,000,000 inhabitants and situated 
at the head of a chain of mighty inland seas, whose waters 
could float the commerce of a continent and which, by the 



WW A LEAVES. 231 

Creator, seems evidently designed for a highway along which 
to distribute the products of an immense region and by which 
in turn to supply an increasing civilization. Chicago beats the 
world in the handling of hogs, cattle, grain and lumber. The 
number of miles of railroad leading into the city from the west 
alone is 50,000, a number greater than the combined lines of 
railways in Great Britain, Germany and Italy. 

Some people will be surprised to learn that 457 vessels are 
owned in Chicago, with a tonnage of 67,000, the largest one 
being the propeller Peerless of 913 tons burden, while the 
elevators of the city would contain the entire wheat crop of 1890. 

Last year the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad 
brought into Chicago nearly 2,000,000 hogs and a greater 
number of cattle than any other road entering the city. The 
Burlington handles more live stock than any other railway in 
the world. And why.'* Because her system traverses the 
finest cattle country known to the civilized world. 

Chicago is rapidly becoming a great hay market, not far 
from 100,000 tons having been handled here during the year 
1890, at an average of about $10 a ton. 

Nine-tenths of all the lumber arrivinsr in Chicao^o comes 
by lake, while the Burlington road takes out of the city more 
than one-third of all shipments. 

Other roads may ship more fiour, sheep, wheat and barley, 
but the Burlington nobly holds the "edge" on corn, oats, cattle, 
lumber and hogs. Though Iowa is fast changing her politics, 
she stills leads all other states in cattle, corn and hogs; and 
Illinois is a good second. Chicago is now one of the most im- 
portant cheese markets in the world, Illinois, Iowa and Wis- 
consin having 2,000 cheese factories, while New York, Penn- 
sylvania and Ohio contain 450. Considerably more than one- 



232 IOWA LEAVES. 

third of all the wheat raised in this country last year was 
marketed in Chicago and one-tenth of all the hogs in the 
United States were slaughtered in this city; besides all these 
numerous advantages Chicago boasts of having the largest 
union stock yards in the world, where millions upon millions of 
cattle and hogs are handled annually. Therefore, the largest 
packing interests of our United States are located in this city, 
whose shipments reach over the entire globe. 

Chicago, the great eastern terminal of the Chicago, Bur- 
lington & Quincy railroad and where her general offices are 
located, is certainly well chosen wherein to hold the greatest 
fair the world has ever known in 1893, and the old Burling- 
ton will, no doubt, do herself proud in honor of the great event 
in that year. 

The extreme western termini of the Burlington railroad 
are Denver, Colo., Cheyenne, Wyo., and New Castle, Dak. 
Denver is the capital of Colorado, in Arapahoe county, and 
situated on the Platte river at the junction of Cherry creek, 
6,000 feet above the level of the sea and thirteen miles from the 
eastern base of the Rocky mountains, which protect it from 
the cold winds of winter. The mountains extend both north 
and south as far as the eye can trace their rugged heights. 
These highest points. Long's peak to the north and Pike's peak 
to the south, are in full view, towering far above the tops of the 
grandest mountains in North America. They raise their snow- 
clad peaks far above their compeers, rising so proudly and 
defiantly into the clear blue sky, their gray sides and white 
crests being visible through the clear atmosphere for many 
miles. Objects like these are visible for a great distance; 
indeed, were it so named, those who have never been in 
these regions would at once deny the statement. Long's 



IOWA LEAVES. 233 

peak to the north is over 14,000 feet above the level of the 
sea. Gray's peaks, the highest points yet explored in the state, 
are 14,300 and 14,500 feet high; there are others less high, 
but none the less grand and majestic. 

The Alps, storied monuments of ''poetical legendary" fame, 
cannot compare with these mountains in scenes of sublime 
beauty and awful grandeur. Here all the vast scene is before 
3'ou, the pure air bringing the distant mountains within your 
vision as though anxious that the whole grand beauty of the 
scene should be visible at one and the same time. The mind 
drinks in the inspiration of the glorious vision at one draught 
and, filled with awe, wonder and admiration, the bounding heart 
almost stands still while the eager eyes gaze on the grandest 
panorama in nature. 

From the top of either of Gray's peaks a morning scene 
of glorious beauty is unfolded, such as one rarely sees in 
an}'' clime, for nature in her wildest moods has never excelled 
her handiwork here, a panoramic view of which now passes be- 
fore us; travelers from foreign countries tell us that nowhere 
within the range of European travel can such scenes be found — 
scenes so full of beauty, sublimity and inspiration. Nowhere 
on the old continent do we ascend so high; from no point is the 
view so wide and comprehensive. From Alpine summits the 
tourist's gaze extends over one pretty province to rest upon an- 
other; here the e3'e fails to reach the extent of even one portion 
of our country, and the far distant horizon closes in the scene 
by draping an airy curtain whose fleecy fringes rest on mount- 
ain peaks and vast plains in far distant portions of the same 
fair land. Volumes would not suffice to do justice to this beau- 
tiful state, her vast resources, her mines of gold and silver, iron, 
coal and copper, her rich and fertile valleys, her broad plains 



234 ■ IOWA LEAVES. 

on which roam thousands of cattle, sheep and horses. Her vast 
agricultural resources, her dense forests, deep canyons and 
lofty mountains, her genial climate, and wholesouled, hospitable 
people cannot be described in small space with any degree of 
accuracy or justice; in fact, they cannot be described at all; 
they must be seen to be appreciated and the readers of any 
work pertaining to Colorado must live once among her healthy 
and hospitable people before he or she can understand them or 
comprehend their real character. 

The climate at Denver is dry and very healthy, the state 
being unsurpassed in this respect ; diseases common in the older 
states are unknown here; pulmonary complaints are either 
eradicated from the system of invalids who resort to this country, 
or the disease becomes modified so that the sufferer enjoys a 
marked improvement in his condition. 

Stock-raising is carried on very extensively in this state, 
with very flattering results. No state in the union, California 
excepted, can excel Colorado in the production of vegetables. 
Owing to the dryness of the black loam irrigation is necessary 
to secure good crops, for which purpose ditches have been dug 
from neighboring streams, which afford the water required. 
These ditches also afford ample water power for mills of various 
kinds. 

Colorado is rich in ner precious metals, gold and silver 
being mined extensively in different parts of the state. Pike's 
peak became famous in 1859, though it is said that gold was 
discovered in 1849 along the base of the mountains many miles 
north and south of Denver. 

Coal has been discovered at various points. Many persons 
estimate the extent of the coal fields at 5,000 square miles. 
The veins of these mines are from five to nineteen feet thick. 



IOWA LEAVES. 235 

At one point eleven veins overlap each other, showing an 
aggregate depth of fifty feet of solid coal; it is bituminous 
and is harder, brighter and less smutty and odorous, burns 
with a purer flame and leaves less residue than the coal from 
Iowa and Illinois. Numbers of creeks in these regions abound 
in trout of the finest quality. The tiniest rivulet swarms with 
them and their speckled sides glisten in ever}' eddy. They 
weigh from one-fourth to two pounds and their flesh is as hard 
as that of the mountain trout in Vermont. 

Antelope, elk, black-tailed deer, bear, sage hens and grouse 
abound in the hills and on the plateaus. The angler, hunter or 
tourist should never pass through Colorado without pausing long 
enough to fly a hook and try his rifle. These regions have be- 
come a favorite summer resort for travelers, possessing as 
they do eminent attractions for hunting aiid fishing. 

Denver, the enterprising western terminus of the Bur- 
lington is a beautiful city of over 100,000 inhabitants, and an 
exceedingly interesting city for all travelers to visit, by 
reason of her rapid and solid growth, her magnificent business 
blocks, hotels and theaters and handsome church edifices, her 
extensive industrial establishments and vast commercial move- 
ments and shipping relations between the Atlantic and Pacific 
coast; two of the most beautiful and imposing peaks in Amer- 
ica can be seen from the streets of this lovely western city, which 
marks the western terminus of the far-famed Burlington route. 

Cheyenne is the second western terminal point of this road, 
situated on a broad open plain, while Crow creek winds around 
on two sides of the city. The elevation is 6,041 feet above the 
sea; it is 516 miles west of Omaha, Neb., and 1,260 miles 
from Sacramento, Cal., and no miles from Denver. The land 
rises on one side of the city slightly to the westward, while on 



236 IOWA LEAVES. 

the east it stretches away for miles apparently level. The soil 
is composed of a gravelly formation with an average loam 
deposit. The sub-soil shows volcanic matter mixed with marine 
fossils in large quantities. The streets of the city are broad and 
laid out at right angles and present a lively business appearance, 
so the traveler feels that he has arrived at a city of more impor- 
tance, enterprise and energy than he had calculated on. It con- 
tains about 20,000 inhabitants and is the great central dis- 
tributing point for vast countries in Wyoming. 

New Castle is the most northwestern terminus situated in 
the famous Black Hills, which lie between the north and south 
forks of the Cheyenne river, which empties its waters into the 
muddy Missouri above the famous city of Pierre, Dak. The 
Black Hills district is noted for its rich mineral wealth and is 
fast becoming an interesting region to the traveler and those 
seeking homes in the great west. 

Among other noted cities on the Burlington route are St. 
Paul, Minn., and Winona, Minn.; Streator, Peoria, Galesburg 
and Aurora, 111. ; Dubuque, Des Moines, Cedar Rapids, Daven- 
port, Council Bluffs, Ottumwa and Creston, Iowa; Omaha, 
Lincoln and Kearney, Neb.; LaCrosse and Prairie du Chien, 
Wis.; Atchison and Leavenworth, Kan.; Kansas City, St. 
Louis and St. Joseph, Mo., etc. 

The agricultural resources of the great, vast region trav- 
ersed by the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad throughout 
the above-mentioned states are the tinest yet presented to the 
gaze of an admiring world in any country under the sun. 

Let us first take the state of Illinois, where Aurora, 
Streator, Princeton, Peoria and Galesburg are situated. All 
of these lovely cities are surrounded by a most beautiful and 
fertile country. The farming region in this state cannot be 



IOWA LEAVES. 237 

surpassed on the continent and beautifully presents itself to the 
eye of the traveler as it stretches away to the north and south, 
merging into one broad, lovely expanse as the train flies along 
at seemingl}' lightning speed. 

Corn, oats, wheat, rye and barley are the principal products 
of the soil in this state, though corn is the principal crop, while 
all the grains, grasses and fruits knov/n to the latitude grow 
prolifically here, and by reason of the garden-like productive- 
ness of its soil has attracted a large and intelligent settlement. 

Aurora, the first city of interest which the traveler passes 
through after leaving Chicago, is a beautifully situated cit}' only 
thirty-seven miles from Chicago and is where some of the prin- 
cipal shops of the great Burlington road are located. A branch 
line passes from this city south to Streator and one north to 
Turner and Geneva and on to Rockford. 

The next city of interest is Mendota, a city full of enter- 
prise and having a good location; soon we are at Princeton with 
a lovely country surrounding her and now we roll along and 
Galesburg is called out next, where a branch runs north to 
Denrock, connecting with the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, 
which leads out of St. Paul and another branch leads south 
to Bushnell and Beardstown and on to East St. Louis. The 
next is Monmouth, city of colleges, and soon we cross the 
great Father of Waters and as we gaze down into the great 
liquid depth from the huge iron bridge which spans its 
course the following beautiful verse comes to us in all its 
intensity : 

Beautiful, proud, majestic Mississippi, 

Parent of great cities. 

Since God created heaven and earth 

Thou hast traversed the deep 

And mingled thy waters with the mighty seas. 



238 IOWA LEAVES. 

From the bridge, too, a magnificent view of the city of 
BurHngton is had, called in pioneer days "Flint Hills," deriving 
its name from being situated on three high hills, known to the 
inhabitants of the city as north, south and west hills. The 
city is beautifully situated on the left bank of the grand old 
Mississippi and contains over 30,000 inhabitants and the ship- 
ments from her numerous manufactories reach over large terri- 
tories of country. She controls an elegant system of water- 
works and an excellent electric arc light plant, while her busi- 
ness blocks are tall, stately and solidly built. Her streets are 
paved with a durable quality of vitrified brick and granite and 
the finest street railway system in the state is now in operation 
and Burlington has at last, after all these years, "put the 
little mule away." The union depot, on South Main street, is 
a model structure, built of pressed brick with handsome lime- 
stone trimmings and is an ornament to the city and an everlast- 
ing credit to the Burlington system. 

The business portion of this lovely city lies in the valley, 
while handsome residences adorn the hills and elegant churches 
and school buildings are seen on every hand. 

This city has large business interests, which extend over 
the several adjoining states, bringing in large returns. 

Although Burlington never has a "boom," she marches on 
quietly to success and is steadily advancing, reaching out a little 
further all the time, cautious, but growing richer and richer in 
her advantages, while the luxuriant country surrounding the 
city is rich in all the great agricultural resources known to our 
state. Branch lines of the "Q." run north and south from here, 
reaching Minneapolis in the north and St. Louis in the south. 

West Burlington is a cit}' of itself and has assumed large 
proportions in the last three years, having been of rapid and 



IOWA LEAVES. 239 

solid growth. The largest and most thoroughly equipped shops 
of the Burlington system are located here, built of solid brick 
with stron^j and durable walls and furnished throuirhout 
with all the new improved machinery necessar\ for the work- 
ing of all the branches of car and locomotive construction. 
These shops present a lively scene when about i,ooo sinewy- 
armed men are busily engaged in repairing and manufacturing 
cars and engines. The foundry, blacksmith's shop, store rooms, 
car and paint shops are all commodious buildings and are a 
credit to the state of Iowa and the Burlington system. 

West Burlington is an incorporated village and contains 
about 3,000 inhabitants, the population being chiefly families 
connected with the shops. Comfortable churches and school 
buildings have been erected and we predict a prosperous future 
for this pretty village. 

The next city of interest is Mt. Pleasant, county seat of 
Henry county, containing about 4,000 inhabitants and situated 
in the midst of one of the finest agricultural regions of the state 
and where the handsome State Insane Asylum is located. A 
north and south branch of the great Burlington road extends 
out from this lovely city, passing through a rich and fertile 
country. On we go and soon we enter Jefferson county, whose 
name and fame ranks high among the ninety and nine in Iowa. 
Fairfield is the county seat of this county, beautifully situ- 
ated and a city of pleasant homes, handsome churches, excel- 
lent schools and is where Parsons College is located, the leading 
Presbyterian institution in the state. 

Our next stop is at Ottumwa — the "Lowell" of Iowa and 
metropolis of the coal palace regions — and as we pull into the 
handsome Burlington depot my mind wanders back to the scene 
of thirty-four years ago and I tind myself drijiwing comparisons 



240 IOWA LEAVES. 

between the passenger service of then and now. What mag- 
nilicent changes old father time has wrought in the passenger 
service of our country in the past twenty years and especially 
is this fact demonstrated on the Burlington system. 

Ottumwa and her surrounding country have been minutely 
described in another portion of this book, so we proceed to 
Albia, county seat of Monroe county, where a branch line 
extends northwest to the state capital city, passing through a 
beautiful and wealthy country rich in coal and agriculture. Des 
Moines, the capital of the state of Iowa, has over 65,000 
inhabitants and is situated in the fertile valley of the peaceful 
Des Moines river, almost in the central part of the state. The 
first object which greets the eye of the traveler as he enters this 
city is the magnificent dome of the handsome state capitol 
building. It is a conspicuous landmark indeed, and one of the 
most sublime designs known to architecture in our United 
States is Iowa's state capitol, of which she is justly proud. 

There is no city in the west which has advanced as rapidly 
in its growth as this one; her streets are broad and level and 
lined with elegant and durable buildings. Fine hotels, lovely 
churches and handsome homes make it also a very fine residence 
city. A full and complete description of tliis city is given in 
the sixth chapter of this book with fine illustrations. 

The next place of interest on the main line of the Burling- 
ton route is Chariton, county seat of Lucas count}'; it marks 
the eastern border of the famous blue grass regions of south- 
western Iowa and is also one of the most beautiful and pro- 
ductive in "the state. 

The Burlington has a branch line running from here to 
Des Moines via Indianola and one south to St. Joseph, Mo. 
Chariton is beautifully situated. A full description of the city 



IOWA LEAVES. 241 

and country appears under the head of " Beauties of the Blue 
Grass Regions." 

Onward, westward, and our next halt is at Osceola, county 
seat of Clarke county, also situated in the great blue grass 
belt and an exceedingl}' rich and fertile one. 

From Osceola we proceed to Creston, county seat of 
Union county, the blue grass palace city, which contains over 
8,000 inhabitants. This city is situated on the highest crest 
between the IVIississippi and Missouri rivers, 190 miles west of 
Burlington and no miles east of Omaha, Neb. There are 
two branch lines passing from here, one north to Cumberland, 
in Adair county, and one south to St. Joseph, Mo. A full 
and complete description of this city and county is given in 
"Beauties of the Blue Grass Regions." 

The next stop is at Corning, county seat of Adams county, 
one of the richest in agricultural and mineral products in the 
blue grass regions of Iowa, a description of which appears in 
another chapter of this book. 

Valisca is the next station, situated in Montgomery county, 
amid one of the tinest farming regions of the state. 

A branch line runs south from Valisca to Clarinda, county 
seat of Page county and where the new State Insane Hos- 
pital is located. The county is famous also among those 
comprising the blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa, and 
cannot be surpassed in the raising of fine cattle for the market. 

And now we halt at Red Oak, county seat of Montgomery 
county, containing over 4,000 inhabitants and where the 
handsome State Sanitarium is located. A branch runs from 
here north to Ringgold in Cass county, and one south to 
Shenandoah and Hamburg in Page county, thence to Kansas 
City, Mo., via the Kansas City, St. Jo. & Council Bluffs rail- 



242 IOWA LEAVES. 

road. INIontgomery county is situated in the famous wonderland 
of southwestern Iowa, a full description of which also appears 
in "Beauties of the Blue Grass Regions." 

Hastings is the next principal station, situated in Mills 
county, with two branches reaching out over as fine a stock 
and asfricultural res^ion as the sun ever shone on. The south 
branch runs to Sidney, county seat of Fremont county, while 
the north branch passes north to Carson in Pottawattamie 
county. 

And now we enter famed "Queen Mills," and soon the 
porter calls out Glenwood, county seat of Mills county. This 
county is noted for its elegant fruit farms and embraces a large 
portion of the southwestern Iowa fruit belt. The state institu- 
tion for feeble minded children is located here with beautiful 
grounds and the reader will find a minute description of the 
county and institution in the third chapter of this book. 

Our next place of interest is Council Bluffs, county seat of 
Pottawattamie county and situated at the foot of the bluffs 
in the Missouri river valley, and about four miles from Omaha, 
Neb, This lovely city contains about 25,000 inhabitants. 
Council Bluffs is one of the oldest towns in the state; as early 
as 1846 it was known as a Mormon settlement by the name of 
Kanesville, which it retained until 1852, when the legislature 
granted a charter designating the place as the city of Council 
Bluffs. The explorers, Lewis and Clark, held a council with 
the Indians here in 1804 and named it Council Bluffs. 

Her railroad interests are almost identical with those of 
Omaha. For a more complete history of this town and county 
the reader is referred to "Beauties of the Blue Grass Regions." 
We now cross the muddy Missouri river at Plattsmouth 
and we are in the state of Nebraska, and on our way to 



IOWA LEAVES. 243 

Omaha, pride of the west. This city is situated on the 
western bank of the great, deceptive Missouri, on a sloping 
upland, about fifty feet above high water mark, altitude 
360 feet, and is a thrifty and beautiful city of wealth, culture 
and refinement, containing about 100,000 inhabitants. The state 
capital was first located here, but was removed to Lincoln in 
1868. Omaha, though the first settlement made in Nebraska, 
is a young cit}'. In 1S57 a few squatters settled here. In 
1854 the Council Bluffs & Nebraska Ferr}' Company pur- 
chased the land, now occupied by the city, and erected the 
claim house afterward known as the St. Nicholas; about this 
time the name of Omaha was given to the place and the town 
improved steadily until 1859 when it commenced to gain very 
rapidly, and its growth has been almost unparalleled ; there are 
many evidences of continued prosperity and future greatness. 
Like Council Bluffs, it has a large area of fertile territory 
tributary to it, and railroad connections with the east, west, 
north and south with which to bring wealth to its business 
firms. South Omaha is a city of itself, and the Union Stock 
Yards are located here, with the most complete and successful 
stock exchange in the great west. 

We are now well along toward Denver and the Rocky 
mountains and our first stop is at Ashland, where a branch of 
the Burlington S3"stem extends north to Schuyler, situated on 
the famous North Platte river; from thence we proceed to Lin- 
coln, the beautiful capital city of the state of Nebraska, into 
which four branches of the Burlington (aside from the main 
line) enter. The main branch leads northwest to New Castle, 
Dak. Another extends out to Columbia via David City, and 
another to Harrington via Greeley Center to Brewster and 
Butka. 



244 IOWA LEAVES. 

Lincoln is a lovely, enterprising city of about 50,000 
inhabitants, beautifully located and a thorough, wide-awake 
western city, surrounded by a most fertile and wealthy country. 
Large railroad shops are located here and the streets lined with 
elegant blocks, while lovely streets, handsome churches and 
pretty homes greet the eye on every hand. 

From Lincoln we proceed on west to Hastings, Neb., 
another place where the Burlington has two well-equipped 
branches of rail. The north branch extends to Aurora, Neb., 
while the south one passes to Red Cloud and Kearney Junction^ 
on the North Platte river. 

The next place of interest is Holdredge, where the Chey- 
enne extension of the "Q.'" route branches out to the northwest 
in Wyoming. We roll on from Holdredge southwest to Oxford, 
where the Burlington has a main line running to Atchison, 
Kan., with branches passing south to Concordia, Oberlin and 
St. Frances. 

The next interesting station is Culbertson, where a branch 
runs northwest connecting with the Cheyenne extension at 
Holyoke, Neb. 

On we go through numerous thrifty villages and fine agri- 
cultural regions and soon we pull into the magnificent depot 
in that far-away beautiful city, the background of which is the 
most sublime that nature ever created — one which poets cannot 
describe nor artists sketch. Denver, the metropolis of the 
middle western country and western terminus of the great 
Burlington route, is picturesquely situated near the eastern 
base of the Rocky mountains, the famous backbone of the 
American continent. 

An open, rolling country surrounds this city, being the 
outer border of tliat immense plain which stretches away to 



IOWA LEAVES. 245 

the waters of the deceptive ^Missouri river, 600 miles to the 
e.istward. 

The tourist in making this romantic trip over the Bur- 
lington from Chicago to Denver may enjo}^ all the luxuries and 
comforts of home life by taking passage in a Pullman palace 
sleeping car. Here he is assured of refreshing sleep in a palace 
by day as well as by night. Of course, this will add to the 
expense, but what of it? when w^e behold these elegant coaches 
which accompany all through trains, fitted up complete with 
mattress, pillows, blankets, clean bed linen, elegant curtains 
and carpets. The toilet rooms are fitted with marble wash- 
stands, towels, soap and handsome plateglass mirrors, leaving 
nothing to be furnished by the passenger. Neither is it neces- 
sary in the present age to purchase provisions to take along, as 
excellent meals are served the traveling public right on the 
train. What a convenience and improvement over the old way! 

The traveler going over the Burlington from Chicago 
to Denver steps up to the ticket office in Chicago and purchases 
his ticket. He gives his trunk to a baggage-master and gets 
for it a 'little piece of metal and sees and cares for it no more. 
He steps aboard the handsome vestibule passenger train, 
equipped with Westinghouse automatic air brakes, Janey coup- 
lers, Miller platforms — in fact, the very finest-equipped passenger 
train on the globe; the porter shows him his space in the 
Pullman car. He takes his seat, pulls off his boots, puts on 
his slippers, takes out his newspaper and his traveling cares are 
at an end. Engineers and conductors change and he is passed 
from one division to another and at night his seat becomes a 
bed and he sleeps as quietly as if in his own bed at home. He 
traverses beautiful prairies, passes over lovely brooks and rivers, 
through forests, down steep hillsides, over broad plains, swiftly 



246 , IOWA LEAVES. 

whirling over iron bridges, through beautiful cities and pictur- 
esque villages, but he never leaves his parlor. If needs be, his 
meals are brought to him where he sits and at length, after 
about twenty-two hours of pleasant traveling, in which he has 
been in the hands of four different conductors and in the keep- 
ing of several engineers, he is set down in the finest depot in 
Denver. 

He looks at the clock in the depot, compares it with the 
time table in his hands and finds that his journey has been 
accomplished with all the regularity and punctuality of the sun. 
His little piece of brass is given to an express agent or a hack- 
man and when he reaches his hotel the trunk which he surren- 
dered in Chicago is in the hall awaiting him. 

It seems a very simple business to the traveler, and, if 
perchance through all this journey, he finds the dinner a little 
cool, or the conductor on one part of his trip discourteous, or 
the train stopped at any point in the long ride beyond his ex- 
pectations, or the arrival at his destination delayed a second 
beyond the appointed time, he is very apt to grumble inwardly, 
if not vocally. 

How much money has been put into this long line of rail ! 
How much has been lost in unsuccessful experiments ! How 
many sleepless nights have surveyors and contractors spent in 
providing this marvelous highway! How intricate and in- 
volved is the system of co-partnership that is necessary to such 
a continuous transportation without change of cars ! What a 
ofi^antic undertaking: it is to administer this system with its 
thousands of employes ! How wide-awake the conductor and 
engineer have been that the traveler may sleep ! What dangers 
they have had to face that he may ride in safety! Of all this 
he is unconscious if not absolutely ignorant. The management 



IOWA LEAVES. 247 

of such a system as the Budington in the handhng of thousands 
of trains without clashings or coUisions requires executive 
abihty of the very highest order. 

If, sir, 3'ou think it easy, count up the difficulties you have 
with your "Irish" gardener in the administration of your country 
place, then multiply those difficulties by 15,000 and you have 
solved the problem of an American railroad president. 

Aside from the excellent passenger service which the 
Burlington gives the traveling public is the careful and system- 
atic handling of her freight trains. The freight service is also 
perfect in every detail and especially has it been demonstrated 
to the shippers of the east and west. The finest-equipped 
palace stock cars ever constructed are being placed by the 
company at the disposal of all who ship stock over her lines, 
the stock trains making passenger train time; therefore, stock 
loaded in the blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa will 
reach the Union Stock Yards in Chicago in from eighteen to 
twenty hours after shipment. 

I cannot lay this subject of the Burlington aside, nor con- 
sider it finished, until I have paid a tribute to the lives and char- 
acters of the faithful employes connected with its system. 
Composed of as fine a body of men as are found in the train 
service of any road in America, brave, heroic, intellectual, 
courteous and kind, hospitable, charitable and liberal toward all 
with whom they may become associated and always faithful in 
the discharge of every duty required of them. Passenger and 
freight trains roll on from one division station to another, 
through the cold, disagreeable storms of winter and the intense 
heat of the summer time, within the faithful, cautious keeping 
of these valued and trusted employes. The conductor walks 
through his train and looks after the safety and convenience of 



2i8 IOWA LEAVES. 

the passengers who have been intrusted to his care, affording 
them all the comforts within his power; he receives his orders, 
reads them over carefully and governs his train accordingly; 
wide-awake, his nerves strained for an emergency, should one 
present itself; his train curves in and out, up hill and down, 
across babblinof brooks and rivers ; throuo^h forests and wide 
stretching plains ; and at last the train steams into the station, 
which marks the end of his division; and the great responsibil- 
ity under which he necessarily has labored during the past 
fifteen or twenty hours is thrown aside until called again to 
pass through the same tr3'ing ordeal. 

Engine driving, every one will agree in truth, is very tr3'ing 
on the mind and no one who has not ridden on the engine of a 
fast express by night can imagine how trying it is; as a rule, 
with rare exceptions, the engineers of the Burlington system 
are a noble, faithful, true body of men, always ready to sacrifice 
themselves to save their train. The true eno^ineer is a man of 
ready resources and quick instinct, a man that is stimulated 
not dazed by emergencies. He stands by his post of duty 
without flinching, looking ahead; his eyes pierce into the 
inky darkness of night as his hand holds the throttle, 
always ready for an emergency, should it come, while the 
fireman shovels the black diamonds ; although the task grows 
burdensome, for it is a hard one, he is going toward home, 
and as he realizes this fact he throws the coal with seemingly 
redoubled energy and he is heard singing that sweet old song 
so full of love and sung the wide world over, "Home, Sweet 
Home." 

Conductors of freight trains on any road have the most 
intricate duties to perform in the railway service ; therefore, they 
must be men of large experience and on them depends a large 



IOWA LEAVES. 249 

share of the excellent freiiiht service which the Burlins^ton 
gives the public along its numerous lines. 

And last but not least is the brakeman. Will the world 
ever condescend to take into consideration and appreciate the 
very important part which he performs in the railway service, 
occupying as he does the most dangerous position, though brave 
and heroic? How many of these noble-hearted fellows have 
met an untimely death beneath the cruel wheels that speed along 
over the iron rails; snatched from their post of duty, as sud- 
denly, sometimes, as the lightning flash, and there are always 
fond hearts, touched by sympathy and love, which go out to- 
ward this class of railway employes, who are struggling to 
climb the ladder, the top of which can only be reached by faith- 
ful persistence and honest endeavor. 



PART FOUR 



SOUTHEASTERN IOWA 



A ROMANCE OF THE COAL PALACE REGION AND 
COAL PALACE AT OTTUMWA, IOWA. 



CHAPTER I. 

A ROMANCE OF KING COAL. 

Two centuries or more ago, about fifty miles west of 
where the quiet, picturesque Des Moines river empties its 
waters into the deep channels of the great Mississippi, in south- 
eastern Iowa, was the scene of many strange and romantic 
adventures. A number of Indian villages were scattered along 
the banks of the peaceful Des jNIoines for miles, which Long- 
fellow describes as the home of Hiawatha, the noble chief of 
the Ojibways. Moin-gue-na, the name of this village, is sug- 
gestive of the name Des Moines and contained in those days 
more people, a greater number of wigwams, brave warriors, 
the greatest number of daring hunters and lastly, the most 
beautiful Indian maidens under the sun. 

This villasre was situated in the midst of a beautiful forest 
overlooking the river above named and was surrounded by a 
most luxuriant and fertile country, which gave rich returns to 
the rude husbandry of the red men. The hillsides and river 
banks in those days w^re covered with wild fruits and grapes 
and the forest and prairie abounded in wild game. Naught 
disturbed the quiet waters of the peaceful Des Moines save 
the ripple of a birchen canoe or the dip of the swallow as it 
skimmed the wave. All nature seemed to lapse in a dreamy 
repose, while the rich autumnal sunlight threw a mellow hue 
over the whole scene. The hum of the insect was strangely 
audible and smoke floated lazily out on the still air from the 

253 



254 IOWA LEAVES. 

numerous wigwams in the village of Moin-gue-na, the home 
of a savage race of people. 

The air is laden with the perfumed leaves of the forest, 
while the mild winds of the Indian summer dim the landscape 
with a hazy softness which thickens the blood of the aborigine 
as he sleeps in his rude wigwam unconscious of the mag- 
nificent scenery surrounding him in the beautiful early morning. 
Scarcely had the rays of the soft, mellow sunlight removed the 
dews of heaven from the fields and prairies when Hiawatha 
arose from his bed of deerskins and threw aside the bearskin 
curtain from in front of his wigwam and slowly advanced down 
a narrow path leading to the water's side, where he seated him- 
self beneath the spreading branches of a large forest tree. Cast- 
ing his eyes over the shining waters and surveying the fertile 
prairies stretching back of the level, he exclaims unto himself: 
"Our lands are broad and fertile, while our corn is beautiful in 
the ear and ready for the harvest ; our tobacco has never grown 
so luxuriantly before as we see it to-day; and our forests are 
full of the bison, red deer and bear. The quail whistles on 
the prairie and the wild duck rears her brood unscared in the 
reedy inlet, while the tranquil waters of this river, which flows 
before the doors of our wigwams, are filled with fish at all 
seasons of the year. 

" Surely the Great Spirit of the universe has been good in 
the giving of all these inultiplied blessings, and still my people 
are discontented and unhappy. Many days have our hearts 
been sorrowful. For, lo! in the hazy distance we can see 
another thrifty and prosperous race of people, who will soon 
traverse these broad domains and yvill take possession of the 
beautiful land which has been our home, lo! these many years. 
We will be driven to the far west, even beyond the Rocky 



IOWA LEAVES. 265 

mountains, which lie so near sundown. We will be scattered 
to the four winds and the Great Spirit who smiles on us to-day- 
will turn his face from my people to those of the coming race. 
The arrow and the tomahawk will cease to do their work and 
the rude wigwam will give place to the elegant home of the 
pale-face chief. Where our corn and tobacco grow to-day will 
be seen fields of golden grain and the waving yellow corn of 
the white man will supplant that which our squaws have 
grown, lo! these many moons, and the same gentle showers 
that have watered our fields all these years will sprinkle 
those of the white race in the years to come. 

"These forests will ring with the shrieks of a huge monster 
on iron wheels, which will slay everything in its path and make 
the earth resound with thunder and leave in its track streaks 
of lightning. Great cities will grow up on the banks of 
this river where I am sitting to-day in the mists of morn- 
ing. The hum of factories and the noise of mills will silence 
forever the cry of the wild beast which roams to-day in our 
forests. 

"Hark! I hear a mighty race of people. I can see them 
coming in the hazy distance and can hear the busy tramp of 
millions coming to inherit our homes, our lands, our broad, 
fertile prairies and lovely rivers. All these beautiful things 
which the Great Spirit has given us will become theirs and we 
will be driven from our abodes in the forest to become a race 
of wandering nomads. Through the cold storms of winter and 
the heat of the summer-time we shall wander from place to 
place. The earth will become our nightly resting-place and 
the moon and stars our only covering. Bitter, bitter these 
facts which I must soon portray to my people,'' and the great 
chief bowed his head and melted into tears. 



256 IOWA LEAVES. 

He does not hear the dry leaves rustle in the forest nor see 
a beautiful, dark-eyed maiden, whose feet skim a narrow, rug- 
ged path leading down to the water's side. On her left arm is 
a basket, for she is the arrow-maker's daughter, Wild Flower, 
coming forth to greet the morning. Her dark eyes rest on the 
noble form of the chief as he sits beneath the spreading 
branches of the tree beside the gentle waters in the early 
morning. She casts a troubled look about her, for this chief is 
her lover and she sadly sings and sighs unto herself. "Why, oh, 
why, these tears ! All the air is full of the freshness of morn- 
ing, our earth is joyous and bright, while above us shine the 
heavens. Beautiful spreads the river before us. On its margin 
are lovely forests, while the shadows of the tree-tops are 
motionless on the waters. 

"The blue bird and the robin sing for you and for me and 
where'er our footsteps wander the meadows wave with blos- 
soms; the woodlands are ringing with music and the trees are 
turning dark with foliage. Come, Hiawatha," cries the dusky 
maiden, and the chief slowly arises from his seat on the river 
bank, and advances toward the Wild Flower of the forest and, 
taking her hand in his, looks deep into the dark, lustrous eyes 
and tells her how he loves her and of his morning vision — tells 
her of the canoes with pinions containing people with white 
faces — some with beards; saw them coming in wooden vessels 
from the regions of the morning — from the shining lands of 
Wabun. Gitche Manito, the mighty, the Great Spirit our 
Creator, has sent them to us on an errand with a message to 
my people and wherever they move the honey makers move 
before them, and wherever the}'' tread beneath their feet springs 
up a flower, called the white man's blossom. Gitche Manito, 
the mighty, has told us in this vision to welcome the strangers 



IOWA LEAVES. 257 

and give them our heart's right hand of friendship. I beheld, 
too, in this vision all the secrets of the future and what 
our distant days shall be. I beheld the westward marches 
of the unknown crowded nation. All the land was full of 
people, restless, struggling, toiling, striving, speaking many 
different tongues, yet one heart beats in all their bosoms. 
The woodlands rang with their axes and smoke floated 
out on the air from prosperous towns in all these valleys; 
over all rivers rushed canoes of thunder. In the hazy dis- 
tance, in the mists of morning, while sitting on the banks 
of this same river, 

I have seen a great big structure, 
Built of huge, great blocks of coal. 
And its walls are shining, glistening 
As the sun's rays fall upon it — 
Shine like diamonds, shine like dewdrops, 
As the moonlight falls upon it. 

Black and mighty are its steeples 
As it looms up in its darkness, 
And the king who reigns within it 
Sprung from out the earth's rich bosom- 
Rich in all his dark, black splendor, 
Rules the people with great wonder. 

Makes them rich in golden shekels; 
Builds he homes for rich and poor; 
Built he, too, great iron railroads; 
Put the mighty cars upon them, 
Which seemed floating and then flying 
To the race who rode upon them. 

To the busy mills he furnished 
All the fuel for their fires. 
Makes the steam for iron horses, 
Warms the wigwams of the poor man, 
Warms the homes of all the rich men. 
Sending gladness everywhere. 



258 IOWA LEAVES. 

Then the noble chief told the Wild Flower of the forest, 
the arrow-maker's daughter, of another darker, drearier vision, 
which he said passed before him clouded in mystery. 

He beheld his nations scattered, all forgetful of their coun- 
cils, weakened and warring with each other. He had seen the 
remnant of his people sweeping westward, wild and woeful, like 
the cloud rack of a tempest, like the withered leaves of autumn. 
"Wild Flower," said the noble chief of the Ojibways, "let uS 
go forth to the village of Moin-gue-na and bid farewell to all our 
people. Let us tell them that we are going on a long and distant 
journey, that many moons and many winters will have passed 
by before we see them again, that the people who shall come 
from the distant land of Wabun will speak unto them words of 
wisdom, and they must listen to the truths they will tell them, 
for the Master of Life has sent them from the land of light and 
morning," and Hiawatha turned and waved his hand at parting, 
and on the clear and luminous water he launched his birch canoe 
for sailing, and with the beautiful Wild Flower of the forest he 
shot out into the river, whispering to her, "Westward! west- 
ward! " and the birch canoe darted forward with great speed. 

And in the evening when the sun went down behind the 
Rocky mountains in the far west, it seemed that the clouds were 
on fire, so red was the sunset. It burned broad like a prairie 
fire. There was a long track and trail of splendor reflected on 
the water as the Indian chief Hiawatha and the forest maiden 
sailed onward, westward, in their birch canoe, sailed into the 
fiery sunset, sailed into the purple vapor, sailed into the dusk of 
evening. 



CHAPTER II. 

A number of years ago in September, on the banks of the 
same quiet, peaceful Des Moines river in southeastern Iowa, 
where the village of Moin-gue-na stood amid the forest several 
centuries ago when the great Indian chief Hiawatha had his 
vision in the mists of morning, was a small village called 
Ottumwa, named for a savage race of people. 

There were only a few scattered cabins on the hillsides 
and along the river banks, homes of the early settlers, while the 
surrounding country was dotted with the rude homes of the 
frontier farmers. On one beautiful September morning all the 
people from these sparsely settled regions surrounding this vil- 
lage could be seen slowly making their way in old-fashioned 
lumber wagons through the forests, out over prairies, across 
babbling brooks and rivers, toward this village. From Mis- 
souri's hills and valleys came also a flowing tide of people, with 
their "whoa! haws!" resounding through the forests, while the 
blows from the butt of the whip fell on the sides of the patient 
oxen, as they traveled on toward the village of Ottumwa. 

From the valley of the Missouri river, which marked the 
western boundary of our great state, the}' came and from the 
far northwest, to witness scenes which were to be enacted here 
for the first time, which marked a golden era in the history of 
Ottumwa and southeast Iowa. 

The Burlington & Missouri river railroad had been com- 
pleted to the village, which marked its western terminus in those 

259 



260 



IOWA LEAVES. 



days. The last spikes had been driven and a grand free excur- 
sion had been given by the management to the people of south- 
east low^a, and the writer, though young in years, was one of 
the party who took advantage of cheap rates and went through 




PRESENT VIEW OF OTTUMWA FROM COAL PALACE TOWER. 

from Burlington on the tirst train that ever carried passengers 
into Ottumwa. 

This train consisted of a long string of flat cars, with a 
temporary lattice built over each one, and covered with ever- 



IOWA LEAVES. 261 

green and limbs of forest trees, affording an excellent protection 
from the sun's hot rays. These cars were seated with rough 
wooden benches and crowded to overflowing. Crowds heralded 
the coming of the train at every station. Old men and women 
young men and maidens, all dressed in holiday attire, were ready 
to climb aboard this train and enjoy a free ride, perhaps for the 
first time in their lives, and mingled their voices with those who 
had screamed themselves hoarse in "hurrahs'"' for the Burling- 
ton & Missouri River railroad. 

The village of Ottumwa was astir at an unusually earl}- 
hour on the morning of which we write, which was such a 
morning as the one that looked upon the Indian chief Hia- 
watha in the early morning in these same forests many, many 
3-ears before. People were rushing hither and thither in their 
hurried excitement; the woods rang with mirth and music; 
the fatted ox had been slaughtered, and the beautiful hillsides 
were being prepared for the great feast and festivities of the 
occasion. Railroad magnates were to meet with the popula- 
tion of this section of country and sit down together under- 
neath the branches of lofty timber and, like the Indian chief 
of years gone by, tell of what the future was to bring forth 
from the regions of the morning. They were united heart and 
hand in this, the first great enterprise that ever reached their 
rich and fertile countrv. 



CHAPTER III. 

Speeding along on the iron rails in the hazy distance is a 
huge monster, which the Indian chief described as floating, 
sometimes flying, making the earth resound with thunder and 
leaving in its track streaks of lightning. 

Fizzle, fizzle, squeak, ding, dong, rumble, rumble, hurry, 
skurry, puffing and rolling onward and westward, through 
forests and over prairies, down steep hillsides and across beau- 
tiful creeks and rivers, through the free, romantic, artless 
country. Our noses scent the incense-laden breath of the 
forest, whose bashful charms are enhanced by a thin veil of violet 
haze, whose transparency stimulates the ardent glance of her 
accepted lover, the sun. The whole party on board this roman- 
tic train were as happy as if reclining on spring-cushioned, cut 
velvet seats, realizing the luxury if not the poetry of motion. 
The excursionists revelled in the perfumed atmosphere and 
tender-tinted landscapes, diluted a little and the garishness 
toned down by dense clouds of tobacco smoke, and expressed 
their emotions in stenographic phraseology: "Fine day!" "Very!" 
"Cigar?" — "No, thank you; prefer a pipe." "What's in your 
basket?" — "Grub." "And in those bottles under the covering?" 
— "Cold tea and water." — "Ah! how very invigorating and 
appetizing." As we fly along we see a region teeming with 
intelligent industry, indicative of material wealth, with here 
and there a thriving villao^e. We had heard of these things 
boastfully reiterated and were not disappointed, but we had in 

262 



IOWA LEAVES. 263 

addition what we had never heard talked of: a succession of 
the most beautiful scenic pictures that ever regaled the eye of 
an artist or warmed the fancy of a poet; we do not remember 
to have seen anywhere a panorama superior to the one we saw 
on our first trip through southeast Iowa on this remark^le 
excursion day. 

As we glide smoothly and rapidly along, it is as enjoyable 
as a sweet dream to watch how each vanishing picture is re- 
placed by another equally as charming before you have time 
to regret its passage. As we near our destination, the forests 
grow more dense, and the hills grow wilder, and the prairies 
more limited, and the scenery more charming, and soon the 
jolly, jovial, good-natured, fat-faced conductor, who has tend- 
ered more courtesies on this day than most any other man 
could in a single life, screams: "Ottumwa!" which is echoed 
through the hills and valleys by a hundred or more voices. 
Crowds of people swarm along the tracks in this village to 
greet the excursionists and to gaze for the first time on the 
one-eyed Cyclop, which speeds on the iron rails, and are wild 
in exultation and praise of the great Burlington & Missouri River 
railroad. They view this huge monster in consternation and 
wonder and a smile of delight is visible on many faces among 
the amazed crowds, which for the first time look upon a rail- 
road train. 

The demonstrations were almost equal to those seen not 
long since, when the President of the United States visited the 
enterprising coal palace city. 

Where the elegant residence portion of this city stands to- 
day, on Court hill, were the scenes on this memorable excursion 
day of an old-fashioned "barbecue". The fatted ox had been 
well roasted and the delicious flavor of roast beef greeted the 



264 IOWA LEAVES. 

hungry excursionists, and to say that they did it ample justice 
but vaguely expresses it. 

The "old Burlington" did herself proud on this occasion 
in the spreading of such a luxurious feast before the multitude, 
who greeted their first entrance to the beautiful Eden of the 
new world. The introduction was a grand success and will 
always be remembered by the people of this section of country 
and by all those who were fortunate enough to participate in 
the great historical event. 

Let us note the progress of this village as it becomes a 
city and the metropolis of southwest Iowa, and also of her 
tirst great railroad, now known to the world as the Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy. 

The rise of cities and their surrounding countries forms 
an interesting element in the history of our state. The 
advantages of nature and the demands of trade have attracted 
mankind, and thousands of happy homes have arisen in the city 
of Ottumwa and country from a wilderness and prairie. The 
joys and sorrows, the hopes and cares of domestic life flow on 
alike, whether in the valleys of the great Mississippi, or in 
those of the Des Moines. 

Factories spring up along their banks ; the artisan and the 
merchant seek their daily toil; parents train their children with 
assiduous care; churches and schools have arisen, and genera- 
tions labor for themselves and posterity. Great adversities 
perhaps may fall on the crowded haunt, but years of prosperity 
succeed and the city expands with redoubled energy, while the 
river is already the parent of a city. The great Mississippi 
gave birth to a throng of cities which line its banks, and so 
has the river Dcs Moines, and prominent among the enter- 
prising cities of our state is the city of Ottumwa, standing to- 



IOWA LEAVES. 



265 



day on the same spot and on the banks of the same peaceful 
Des Moines, where the villao^e of Moin orue-na stood centuries ao-o 
and where the chief Hiawatha made his phophecy of what the 
future would bring forth from the regions of the morning — a 




UNION PASSENGER DEPOT, OTTUMWA. 

proud monument of the enterprise and genius of the citizens 
of southeast Iowa. 

Smoke rolls out on the still air from numerous factories, 
work-shops and mills, regular beehives of industry, and from 
the homes of over 20,000 people. 



266 IOWA LEAVES. 

It can be safely said that no point west of the anthracite 
regions of the east offers such inducements to manufacturers 
as Ottumwa; in fact, the statement can be emphasized and we 
declare that no point anywhere can possess superior advantages. 
And this is because having the same natural resources and 
equal railway facilities, they have the coigne of vantage in being 
centrally located with reference to the great masses of population. 

The wise statesmen of the last generation affirmed that 
here in the center of this great Mississippi valley, midway of 
the continent, was the future seat of empire. We have already 
lived to realize that truism. 

The manufacturer of the future must be able to supply 
the consumers direct. His factory must be convenient to his 
purchasers. The west will no longer pay freight carriage for a 
thousand miles, where it can make the commodity itself. The 
plow and reaper and pruning-hook which are to go into these 
fields must be made here. The miner's pick and drill must be 
forged near the mine. The carriage for the townsman and the 
wagon for the farmer will be made out of timber grown 
upon our own bottom land and not in the forests afar. The 
clothes we wear, the blankets we sleep under, the knives and 
forks we eat with, the glassware and crockery upon our 
tables, all these, and a multitude of other things, we will pro- 
duce ourselves and not pay the distant manufacturers for. We 
have coal seams under our feet that will suppl}^ our wants for 
a thousand years and forests of the hardest woods, with clay 
and sand that are unrivaled, with mighty rivers, nature's free 
highways, and radiating lines of rails to cheaply bring to us 
the products of other climes. 

Ottumwa is in the center of the great Des Moines river 
coal fields, which geologists declare are capable of producing 



IOWA LEAVES. 267 

3,000,000 tons a year for a thousand years. The city is vir- 
tually built upon the inexhaustible beds of bituminous fuel laid 
down in Ottumwa from the adjacent mines; this coal sells at 
70 cents a ton for steam purposes. It is proportionately 
cheap in all the other grades and it is the best bituminous 
coal mined anywhere. The fact needs to be known to the 
struggling manufacturer or artisan of the east who, looking 
into the great west with its promise of inevitable supremacy, 
longs to cast his lot among its people and plant his capital, his 
skill, his ingenuity and his energy where they will have just 
reward. 

How true the prophecy of Hiawatha centuries ago of what 
the future should bring forth to the valley of the Des Moines 
river in southeast Iowa! and to-day we look upon the great 
" Loweir' of Iowa, which has been of rapid and solid growth. 
During the past year she has paved with vitrified brick about 
two miles of her principal streets and this work, which was 
done in the most t'horough and permanent manner, will be 
rapidly extended hereafter. This makes the thoroughfares in 
much of the business portion and the principal residence districts 
models of their kind and a source of just local pride. 

A magnificent system of waterworks covers the entire 
city, six miles of new mains having been laid during last year. 
A paid fire department in connection with this system reduces 
to a minimum the danger of loss by conflagration. The city 
has three miles of electric railway, on which are operated 
the finest cars Pullman's great shops turn out. This monu- 
mental system practically brings all parts of the city into close 
community of interest and makes distance no longer a factor 
to the suburban resident. The old-fogy system of horse cars, 
with their uncertain time and indifferent service, seems anti- 



268 



70 TT"^ LEAVES. 



quated beside this splendid service, for it is a luxury and not a 
vexation to travel in elegantly-upholstered, perfectly-heated and 
brilliantly-lighted cars, which can readily travel at the rate of 
twenty-two miles an hour on a level. The same enterprising 
company which operates the electric street car system supplies 
the city with incandescent and arc electric lights and the general 
use of these gives the streets, stores and dwellings a cheerful air 
at night. The most notable achievement of the company, how- 
ever, is their extensive system of steam supply. 




JOHNSON RUFFLER WORKS, OTTUMWA. 

Even to many people who reside in our state the diversit}' 
of our local products is unknown. In the great Johnson Ruffler 
works in this city about 550 employes are busy turning out a 
great variety of metal work, which goes into millions of homes 
all over the world. In the huge starch works of this city our 
state's greatest crop is transformed into the fine product which 
is absorbed in the arts as well as by the housewife's necessities. 



IOWA LEAVES. 269 

In the packing-house of John Morrell & Co. 500 men are 
busy day by da}' with the intricate processes by which such a 
large share of the world's meat supply is produced. Here is a 
great factory turning out an infinite variety of drills and tools 
for miners' uses, a factory which, by the merit of its product, 
has almost eliminated competition. 

In another great industrial establishment iron bridges are 
constructed and these structures, made in forges of our own, 
span a thousand streams. 

Ottumwa has great boiler works, machine shops, linseed 
oil mills, flouring mills, carriage, cigar, box and wood-working 
factories in all their varieties. The cutlery works is another 
large establishment and the goods, having the advantage of 
exclusive machinery, are of intrinsic merit and command 
wide sale. 

There are a hundred other profitable institutions in which 
technical skill evolves from the raw material the finished 
product; for instance, cigars, more of which are made in 
Ottumwa than in any other city in the west. Great cooperage 
interests flourish ; local houses handle the butter and egg product 
of the country within 100 miles, etc.; in addition to these 
interests, which furnish constant and remunerative employment 
to skilled labor, it is not unimportant to note that the railways 
centering here employ more than 1,000 men, whose homes are 
in Ottumwa. 

Old Father Time has been lavish in the distribution of his 
gifts throughout the coal palace city of Ottumwa, the "Lowell'* 
of Iowa, and when we note the great strides which even the 
old "Burlington & Missouri River" has made since her tirst 
introduction to the people of southeast Iowa we are indeed 
astonished. So elegant has she become in her equipments and 



270 



IOWA LEAVES. 



SO handsome is the new, commodious brick depot which she 
occupies in West Ottumwa, with its beautiful trimmings of 
Hmestone, that we hardly recognize her as the same in all this 
magnificent array of splendor. 




NEW POSTOFFICK BUIIDING, OTTUMWA. 



A handsome government postotHce built of brick masonry 
on a solid stone foundation is an ornament to this city and is 
one of which all true Ottumwans are justly proud. Commodious 
brick business blocks have taken the place of frames, and with 



IOWA LEAVES. 271 

wide, paved streets, electric street-cars and large business inter- 
ests Ottumwa has become the best city in the state. Elegant 
churches of all denominations, handsome school buildings, with 
as tine a school system as is found in the great west, beautiful 
homes and a prosperous and aristocratic class of citizens make 
her also one of the finest residence cities in the world. 

This city is divided by the picturesque Des Moines river, 
and South Ottumwa is a city by itself, having" assumed large 
proportions within the past six 3'ears. A handsome and dura- 
ble wa2:on and foot bridire across the river connects the north 
and south sides. From the handsome, illustrated Christmas 
number of the Ottumwa Dcr/ly Courier we take the following: 

"The industrial exchange is a vigorous progeny of new 
commercial life in the coal palace city. It is an association 
comprising some 125 of the active and influential business men 
of the city and the work mapped out for itself is to benefit 
Ottumwa. 

"Among the methods for the accomplishment of this pur- 
pose will be the judicious advertising of the city abroad through- 
out the state and nation, correspondence with capitalists and 
manufacturers with a view to inducing them to locate here, the 
encouragement of a united local sentiment in business circles 
and the improvement of the city. 'No bonuses' is the motto 
of the association. Ottumwa does not have to offer such 
inducements, because its natural advantages are of themselves 
so great as to assure the success of almost any well-managed 
manufacturing enterprise. But it is probable that available 
sites would be provided for those who desire to plant indus- 
trial establishments here. 

" It is also the plan of this exchange to hold monthly lunches 
at one of the hotels, at which a program including addresses 



272 IOWA LEAVES. 

and some subject of current commercial interest will be included. 
These meetings will draw the merchants together and stimu- 
late them to united action. The list of members is complete and 
it is a superb company of progressive, intelligent, wide-awake 
and liberal business men." 

The coal palace region of southeast Iowa is of vast extent; 
it embraces the whole of the southeastern portion of the state 
and comprises the following counties: Marion, Mahaska, Keo- 
kuk, Washington, Louisa, Des Moines, Henry, Jefferson, 
Wapello, Monroe, Davis, Van Buren and Lee. 

The climate of this region is peculiarly adapted to vege- 
tation and the country has immense resources of every kind, 
while in practical skill and sagacity the people are fully compe- 
tent to use ever}' advantage. In this light she presents herself 
to the world; in this attitude her people stand toweringly up 
before the gaze of the nation. 

She is a grand example of energy — intellectual, creative, 
resistless energy. Her pride has been in work; her demonstra- 
tions have been work. Labor, as one of the original institu- 
tions of God's wisdom, has been certified and confirmed. Her 
true symbols have been the ax, the pick, the plowshare and 
the steam engine. She has magnified labor. Psalms of thanks- 
giving have celebrated her triumph and raptures of imagina- 
tion have eulogized its wonders. It has been garlanded and 
crowned. Nowhere else has labor vindicated its intrinsic value 
on so vast a scale, in such transcendent connections, with such 
significant fruits; nowhere else has it reached the maximum of 
its utility and adorned itself with so much of the beauty of a 
spiritual sentiment. 

Coal abounds in rich, thick veins in these regions in great 
quantities and the products shipped over large territories of 



IOWA LEAVES. 



273 



country beyond our state. The homes of its farmers are com- 
fortable and great herds of well-fed stock greet the eye of the 
traveler in every direction. 

Wheat, oats, corn, barley, rye and millet, timothy, blue 
grass and clover, broom corn and sorghum yield large returns 
every year and all varieties of garden vegetables grow prolific- 
ally in this section of country. 



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W. T. HARPER S RESIDENCE, OTTUMWA. 



Beautiful rivers, brooks, streams and springs steal their way 
through all portions of this Eden, affording an excellent supply 
of pure water, while the drainage is unsurpassed in the state. 
The climate is all that is desired by those living here and ver}- 
inviting to all who wish to make their homes in the great west 
— neither too warm in summer nor too cold in winter. Seldom 
is there a day too cold for teaming or working in the timber. 



27-1 IOWA LEAVES. 

In an ordinary season, June, July and August will make a heavy 
crop of corn and there are usually two months to spare in grow- 
ing a crop. Market gardeners raise two crops on the same 
ground in one season of several kinds of vegetables. Ever}-- 
thing grown in this latitude has plenty of time for maturing. 
The average rainfall is abundant for making good crops and the 
variation is not enough to prevent the farmer from raising a 
great deal of food, both for man and beast. Every advantage 
combined with plenty of pure water, abundant timber, loamy 
soil, cheap fuel and an enterprising, industrious and educated 
people make a haven of rest for those seeking homes in Iowa. 
The prairies in these regions are dotted with neat white 
churches, which indicate a Christian people, while comfortable 
school-houses greet the eye in every district. 

The shipping facilities of this section are equal to any in 
the west, when we consider that five great trunk lines with 
numerous branches traverse her broad expanse. 

The great number of cars of cattle, hogs, horses and sheep 
shipped from these regions every year to other markets are 
astonishing and foot up very large sums of money. There is 
no country on the continent so well adapted for the raising of 
stock than the coal palace regions of southeast Iowa, while the 
dairy product excels that of any other region in the state and 
the cheese grade equals the best in the world, showing that 
neither the quality of the blue grass nor the skill of the manu- 
facturer is wanting. In fact, these regions rival Kentucky in tine 
stock and blue grass western resources for cheese, Pennsyl- 
vania for fuel, Illinois for corn, California in the excellence of 
fruits and are right up in the ranks in all the other temperate 
zone products of the soil. Her people are cheerful and happy 
and every year confirms their faith that this is the best country 



IOWA leave::;. 275 

in the world for the agriculturist, the horticulturist, the coal 
operator and the grower of stock. Here is a field as rich in 
opportunities as any region on the face of the globe for manu- 
facturing most of the goods and wares now in use. There could 
scarcely be a more desirable locality than southeast Iowa with 
its cheap fuel, cheap proyisions and abundant water supply. 

On the banks of this same river 

I behold a mammoth structure, 

Built of huge great blocks of coal. 

All its walls are shining, glistening, 

As the sun's rays fall upon it. 

Shines like diamonds, shines like dewdrops, 

As the moonlight falls upon it. 

In the extreme western portion of this city, on the north 
bank of the peaceful Des INIoines riyer, near the handsome Chi- 
cago, Burlington & Quincy depot, stands a magniticent struct- 
ure, a monument t o the genius and industry of the citizens of 
Ottumwa and her surrounding country, who by their efforts of 
energy and an earnest determination of will power haye shown 
thousands what they can do as a united city and country. 

This yery unique black diamond structure cost $28,000 
which was raised by priyate subscriptionamong the enterprising 
citizens of this city, who are a free, generous and liberal-minded 
body of men, not afraid to yenture into anything that looks to 
the adyancement of their city and country. Their silyer and 
trold do not lie idle in the musty yaults of banks and they are 
always on the alert, ready to grasp an enterprise such as the 
coal palace has demonstrated with rich returns. 

Thousands haye come and gone and haye left gratifying 
words of praise for the Coal Palace Association and the city of 
Ottumwa who so nobly entertained them during their sojourn 
in the city. Ottumwa has been well adyertised all oyer the 
United States and will next 3'ear present the people with a far 



IOWA LEAVES. 277 

more elaborate display of enterprise and genius than that of this 
year, if such a thing is possible. It is indeed a massive build- 
ing in architecture, design and finish, the central tower being 
nearly 200 feet high, with ornamental turrets 266 feet long and 
126 feet wide. The efficient officers and members of the Coal 
Palace Association are men of indomitable energy and push and 
to them we may ascribe a great deal of credit for the erection of 
this magnificent structure and as having the very finest coal 
palace and industrial exhibit under the sun. 

The president of the Coal Palace Association of 1890 is 
none other than Col. P. G. Ballingall, so well and favorably 
known throughout our state, whose name has been closely 
identified with the interests of this city for many years. Col. 
Ballingall is a man of large heart, kind, hospitable, charitable 
and liberal in everything, and noted among the people of Iowa 
as the great traveler, having not long since made a trip around 
the world, and has visited all places of interest in our own and 
in foreign countries and has recently departed to the land of 
Corea, which lies off the southeast coast of Asia, to spend a few 
months of recreation and pleasure. No doubt but that many 
times during his absence in that country his mind will wander 
to his far-away home in the United States of America, and to 
the city of his long home in the coal palace regions of south- 
eastern Iowa, his "ain countree." When in the midst of solitude 
his mind's eye reflects on the Black Diamond structure, his 
heart will yield to his home and city along the banks of the 
peaceful Des Moines, where the Indian chief Hiawatha had his 
vision in the early morn many, many years ago. Colonel, 30U 
have not only won proud distinction, but national fame, bv the 
excellent manner in which you entertained the President of the 
United States at the coal palace at Ottumwa in 1890. 



278 IOWA LEAVES. 

The next officer of the Coal Palace Association is Col. 
Sam Flagler, the vice-president. Mr. Flagler is a man who 
needs no introduction to the people of Iowa. He has been a 
long resident of the state and of the city of Ottumwa and his 
friends are legion. His close identity with the coal interests of 
the state these many years has won for him both fame and dis- 
tinction, not only in his own home city, but in all parts of the 
country. Mr. Flagler is largely interested in the Flagler 
mines in Marion county, this state, which are very successfully 
operated, and the quiet, graceful manner in which he performed 
his duties of officer in the Coal Palace Association and the zeal- 
ous work put forth by him during the building of the palace 
and also throughout the magnificent industrial exhibit prove 
that this association was very wise in the selection of S. A. 
Flagler for their vice-president. 

Calvin Manning, the very courteous and gentlemanly sec- 
retary and treasurer of the Coal Palace Association, is wide 
and favorably known to the citizens of southern Iowa; a most 
talented lawyer and speaker, whose fame ranks high among the 
noted lawyers who compose the Iowa bar; a man of wonderful 
versatility and fine powers as an orator, who has done much 
toward the upbuilding of his city and country. His efforts of 
genius were clearly demonstrated by the excellent judgment 
displaA'ed in the handling of all business connected with the Coal 
Palace Association of 1890, and many of the laurels which 
crowned its success rest greatly on the most distinguished 
lawyer of southeastern Iowa. 

Now, reader, have you made up your mind to accompany 
me on another long and interesting journey.'* This time it will 
be through the coal palace regions and palace of southeastern 
Iowa, a romantic trip through the famous black diamond struct- 



280 IOWA LEAVES. 

uie. We feel quite sure that you will be both delighted and 
interested in the most sublime trip and novel sights ever wit- 
nessed by people in any country. 

A PANORAMA OF THE COAL PALACE. 

On entering this magnificent structure one is perfectly 
amazed by the dazzling beauty of the interior decorations, 
language being inadequate for the occasion. The immense size 
of the building and novel decorations are a revelation. The 
pillars and walls, railings and balustrades, rafters and ceilings, 
are entirely hidden from view by exquisite arrangements of corn- 
husks and grain, whole ears of corn split, sawed lengthwise, and 
grains of corn, red and white shelled corn, blue squaw corn, 
wheat, oats, rye, barley, millet, blue grass, timothy, clover, red 
pop, feather grass, corn* stalks, stalks of wheat, fiax and buck- 
wheat, all manipulated and arranged by the skillful hands of 
numerous artists, making the whole one solid bower of regal 
beauty and splendor. One hardly knows whether he is, in 
reality, awake or dreaming, so wonderful and marvelous are the 
interior decorations of the coal palace of 1890. 

The distant dome above has the appearance of an inverted 
wheat field whose golden grain is ready for the harvest. Con- 
spicuous from the auditorium are two beautiful pieces of 
decorative art. One is that of a large American eagle directly 
above the stage, made entirely of grains of corn in the natural 
color. Seemingly he has taken his flight from the scenes below 
and has perched himself on a distant mountain, where he exult- 
ingly looks down on a sea of happy human beings. 

On the right, high up in the open court, is seen a beautiful 
American flag; the folds seemingly have fallen gracefully after 
the battle has ended, suggestive of many hearts and homes 



IOWA LEAVES. 281 

made desolate. These two elegant pieces of work are greatly 
admired by every person who gazes upon them. 

A large number of other similar designs occupy very 
prominent positions and are composed of the different varieties 
of grasses and grains herein mentioned; all the exquisite shades 
of bunting, from somber black to the creamiest of tints, are 
used very profusely in the ceiling decorations, and in all the 
numerous exhibits, which have the appearance of rich, shining 
satins, puffed and gathered into all the novel shapes imagin- 
able. "How astonishing!'' we hear them exclaim, as they 
gaze on the wonderful possibilities of decorative triumph, of 
the every-day articles of life, fruits, vegetables, grasses and 
grains, all arranged by skillful and artistic hands. The whole 
building is thoroughly occupied with almost every beautiful 
thins: under the sun and excels all other industrial and novel 
expositions in Iowa this year, both in variety and interest. 
There are thirteen counties in the coal palace regions, nine of 
which are represented on the lower floor of the palace with an 
excellent exhibit from the eighteen in the blue grass regions of 
southwestern Iowa, while the mechanical exhibit occupies large 
space on the lower floor on the west side. John Morrell & Co.'s 
pork-packing establishment of this city occupies large space in 
the extreme east portion of the building and F. M. Sinclair & 
Co. of Cedar Rapids occupy an elegant booth in the south- 
cast corner with a handsome display of their pork-packing in- 
dustry. It seems that each has tried to make his exhibit the 
most attractive, and the result may be imagined. The central 
portion of the lower floor is occupied by a large stage and 
auditorium which will seat comfortably 2,000 people and back 
of this stage is where Niagara Falls is represented in all its 
magnificent grandeur. 



282 IOWA LEAVES. 

Rushing and roaring, fumeing and splashing, 
Hurrying and scurrying, clashing and dashing, 
Listening and glistening, shining and pining, 
Falling and sprawling, roaring and soaring, 

Twinkling and sprinkling, illustrative of the waters of Lodore. 
Calcium lights from behind throw a rainbow into the falls, the 
effect of which is very beautiful indeed. A vast multitude have 
looked upon this scene, which is so real that one almost imag- 
ines oneself in the very face of Niagara. This waterfall per- 
forms at intervals of fifteen minutes during the day and evening. 
Each evening brought its attractions, concerts, speeches^ 
theatricals and toasts, but the great presidential hand-shake on 
the evening of October 14 was the grand triumphal epoch of 
the entire evening's performances. The gallery floor contains 
the great Northern Pacific railroad exhibit. The Ottumwa 
Daily Courier otTice, the Pi Beta Phi society and a number of 
prominent business firms of the city are represented by fine 
exhibits. The Des Moines plating works also have an elegant 
display of their goods on this floor, while Dr. Lathrop's cabinet 
of ancient relics draws large crowds every day. 

BLUE GRASS REGION EXHIBIT. 

We will now commence the interesting tour of the finest 
coal palace in the world. Starting on the lower floor, our eyes 
rest first on the blue grass region exhibit, which we will de- 
scribe. This beautiful and novel display, which is situated in 
the extreme southern portion of the building, on the right of 
the stage and waterfall, comprises specimens from the eighteen 
counties of southwestern Iowa and was placed in the coal 
palace by the Blue Grass League of that section of country, 
and they certainly have fully succeeded in making theirs one of 
the drawing features of this great enterprise. The league 



IOWA LEAVES. 283 

appointed a commissioner to take charge of the exhibit from 
the opening until the closing of the great exposition, and were 
wise in their choice, for he stood bravely at his post of duty 
day after day in honor of the great regions he represented. 
October 14, when the President of the United States passed 
through the palace, admiring the exhibits, he seemed greatly 
pleased with the circulars handed him by the pleasant com- 
missioner of the blue grass regions. The blue grass wagon, 
which appeared in the presidential parade, was decorated by 
this commissioner and two able assistants with the products of 
their own country and was greatly admired by the people along 
the line of march, and, aside from President Harrison himself, 
attracted more attention than any other feature in the parade. 
In the ceiling of this booth is a large star which forms a central 
piece, made entirely of blue grass, with a handsome back- 
ground, with frieze and border of other grains, representing 
the star country of Iowa; back of this is a panel made of corn- 
husks, in the center of which is shown the national colors with 
a choice bunch of corn for a center-piece, while the panel is 
fringed with corn tassels. The effect of this decoration is 
admirable and elicits hearty expressions from all visitors. A 
post in the center of the booth forms a foundation for an elabo- 
rate pillar of grasses, at the top of which is a fine pair of Elk 
antlers, made of ears of corn; surrounding this pillar is a pyra- 
mid on which arc exhibited an excellent variety of fruits that 
abound in these regions, with a large supply of vegetables; on 
either side of the post hang two large bells, made of blue grass, 
one with a clapper of corn and the other of squash. As we 
proceed on our journey, the interest increases in the banner 
county of southwestern Iowa, not only in its numerous fruits, 
but in all the varieties of vegetables, grasses and grain. On 



284 IOWA LEAVES. 

the rear wall is a large flag, perfect in form and colors, made 
entirely of corn-husks by the ladies of Osceola, Clark county, 
and first placed on exhibition in the blue grass palace at Cres- 
ton, Iowa, where it was seen and admired by Gov. Horace 
Boies; it was taken by his request to the state fair at Des Moines 
and from thence to the Ottumwa coal palace, having attracted 
wide attention; it rests peacefully in the blue grass region ex- 
hibit upon a background of oats, while above is the sign 
in large letters "Iowa Blue Grass Region Palace Exhibit." 
On either side of this flag are two very unique decorations — 
one the picture of a horse, in life size, made of clover blossoms 
and the other a picture of a fine Holstein animal, also life size, 
made of seeds. A beautiful bale of blue grass occupies a promi- 
nent place in the front part of the booth and is the only one in 
the palace. The shorthorn cow, life size, made entirely of 
blue grass heads, attracts more attention than I could tell in a 
large volume. She has been quietly grazing here almost three 
weeks in a veritable blue grass pasture, tied to a blue grass 
post by a blue grass rope in the most real kind of realit}^ She 
seems very gentle; therefore, we can hardly account for the 
milk pail being turned over and the milk being spilled on the 
grass. The milkmaid's stool lies idly by, while a little lamb 
may be seen near-by sleeping in the same pasture, no doubt 
dreaming of sports on the beautiful blue grass pastures in his 
own country. All that is necessary to complete this scene 
would be a pretty milkmaid from the blue grass regions to 
occupy the stool. It is a picture for an artist and one greatly 
admired by many thousand people passing through the palace, 
and the questions asked by them of the commissioner concern- 
ing this cow and pasture and the blue grass regions would make 
a book. Adjoining the pasture are seen samples of their dairy 



IOWA LEAVES. 285 

products in firkins of ricii, yellow butter and splendid samples 
of cheese, for which the blue grass section is famous. 

Prominent in front, pinned to a blue grass star, is a large 
photograph of the blue grass palace at Creston, Iowa, which we 
have described in full in another portion of this book. Many 
questions were asked concerning it and particularly the time of 
opening this year, many expressing a desire to attend. One of 
the handsomest single pieces of limestone shown in the building 
is a representation of a large tree devoid of limbs and branches 
and was chiseled from the solid rock by Shaffer Bros, of Corn- 
ing, Iowa, and is very expressive in telling the wealth of that 
section in building material. These quarries are also mentioned 
in the blue grass palace story. 

The display of corn is ver}- tine in this booth; it is piled on 
the floor in one corner, representing an old-fashioned husking 
bee of the night before and the "fateful'' red ears are numerous, 
giving indications of the jolliest of parties. There are shown 
fifty sacks of small grains from these regions in all their varie- 
ties. The displays of native woods are original in design and 
very fine, especially one collection made by a student of Tabor 
College, in Fremont county, which shows seventy varieties. 
Another display is of sections of large timber, arranged in two 
imposing pyramids, while the exhibit itself is fenced on one side 
with a rustic fence, constructed of eighty different kinds of 
wood. Here are seen immense blocks of coal, indicative of her 
resources in this respect. The display of vegetables is ver}' 
fine. Even the Israelites on their trip of exploration to the land 
of Canaan never found better — the cabbages, twenty varieties 
of squashes and pumpkins, beets, melons, egg plants, peppers, 
carrots, parsnips, onions and potatoes. There will never be a 
famine so long as there is a blue grass region in southwestern 



286 IOWA LEAVES. 

Iowa. The draperies which hang in front of this excellent 
exhibit are made of corn and beans strung and crossed, forming 
diamonds and are gracefully drawn aside with loops of blue 
grass with very pretty effect. All in all, the blue grass region 
exhibit is a very beautiful and interesting one. All honor, 
profit and praise to the Blue Grass League, the committee 
who placed it on exhibition in the coal palace and the accom- 
plished commissioner or those who may have assisted in any 
way in the placing of this wonderful drawing-card in the coal 
palace of 1890. 

Kind reader, we will now survey the coal palace regions of 
southeastern Iowa, comprising thirteen of Iowa's most beautiful 
counties, which are as follows: Van Buren, Wapello, Davis, 
Marion, Jefferson, Mahaska, Monroe, Keokuk, Henry, Des 
Moines, Louisa and Lee, which lie principally in the fertile 
valleys of the Des Moines river. This exhibit occupies large 
space in the great structure and each county has a separate 
booth in which to make its display. 

WAPELLO COUNTY. 

Our first visit is to Wapello county, the home of the black 
diamond palace. The commissioners in this booth take great 
pains to give all visitors a history of this beautiful, fertile 
country. The first object of interest which attracts our atten- 
tion is the tempting display of canned fruits put up in glass 
jars by Wapello's most excellent housewives. They are, in 
fact, the most delicious that we have ever seen and the greatest 
variety of peaches, pears, grapes, cherries, quinces, apples, rasp- 
berries, blackberries, currants, gooseberries; in fact, all the fruits 
known to the horticulturist in this climate. Two large squares 
form the central pieces in this booth, which form the foundation 



IOWA LEAVES. 287 

for the fruits, vegetables, grasses and grains, and display dec- 
orative work for an artist ; directly over the first square is an arch, 
on which the name " Wapello ^' is written in seeds, on a back- 
ground of coal, while the word "county" over the second one 
is made of corn on a backgrouud of the same material. These 
center pieces are almost hidden from view by an elegant dis. 
play of all fruits in season and garden vegetables manipulated 
with lovely bouquets of flowers, grasses and grains; the effect is 
most charming indeed. This booth is directly opposite the 
blue srass reg'ion exhibit and first to the rig^ht of the auditorium. 
If the blue grass cow had been raised in Creston she would 
have long ago opened the gates leading into Wapello's elegant 
hanging gardens and feasted on all the good things from her 
section of countr}-; being raised on blue grass pastures in the 
free, romantic, artless country, she is not up to the tricks of her 
sisters raised in "cow ordinance" cities. The words "coal 
palace," made from the limbs of a crab-apple tree in the natural 
growth, occup}' a prominent place and are very rustic in appear- 
ance; they are looked upon with wonder and admiration, while 
we see the words underneath, "Wapello county," which are 
formed of thirty-three pieces of wood, all native to the 
county, showing the effects after being polished; a miniature 
cord of wood and pile of lumber are prominent and attractive 
pieces of handiwork and are constructed of wood native to 
the county. The display of iiydraulic cement stone from this 
county and of an excellent quality of brick manufactured at 
Eldon and Ottumwa arc two interesting exhibits, indicative of 
cheap building material. An excellent quality of coal is shown 
in this booth, both for steam and domestic purposes, and taken 
from mines within one mile of the city of Ottumwa. Coal is 
so abundant in the coal palace region that nearly every farmer 



288 IOWA LEAVES. 

has a coal mine of his own within the compass of his farm. 
The displays of grains and seeds in glass jars are a thing of 
beauty and a joy forever to the hearts of Wapello county 
farmers; by these he counts the golden sheckels. The linseed 
oil mills of the city of Ottumwa have a tine display of enter- 
prise in this booth, showing an excellent quality of oil and oil 
cake. Several different kinds of sands are shown in glass jars 
from Wapello's section of country, and are a surprise; the 
numerous colors of the sand blend as beautifully together in 
these jars as do the colors of the rainbow. Several roller proc- 
ess mills are represented here with fine grades of flour, showing 
forth a great industry in this respect in these regions. Wa- 
pello county is to be complimented on her great wealth and 
industries and the great abundance of coal, stone, sand and 
wood. There are twenty coal mines in Wapello county, all 
working in the lower coal measures, the vein being from four 
to six feet thick. The largest mines are located at Kirksville, 
on the Ottumwa & Kirksville railroad; they have excellent 
facilities for shipping coal and are operated by the Wapello 
Coal Company. Their No. i slope is the second largest mine in 
the district and produces the largest amount of coal with one 
exception. The next largest mines are Philips' mine, near 
Ottumwa, on the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul railroad, and 
the Eldon mine No. i, on the southern branch of the Chicago, 
Rock Island & Pacific railroad; both have railroad facilities for 
shipping coal. There are also several local mines in the 
vicinity of Ottumwa that do a good local business in the 
winter. The Wapello Coal Company has opened a new slope 
mine on the Ottumwa & Kirksville railroad. The Hawkeye 
Coal Company of Ottumwa has opened a new shaft mine, one and 
one^half miles north of Ottumwa, on the Chicago, Milwaukee 



IOWA LEAVES. 289 

& St. Paul railroad, which largely increases the production in 
this county. 

The Des Moines river runs diagonally through the county 
and has cut man}- channels through the stratas. The deepest 
shaft in the county does not exceed loo feet and in many places 
the coal lies near the surface. This county has excellent rail- 
road facilities for shipping coal in any direction. It produced^ 
in 1886, 237, III tons; in 1887, produced 272,073 tons, show- 
ing an increase of 34,962 tons. All the mines arc preparing 
to increase the future output. 

Wapello county also boasts of having the finest and 
greatest number of cattle of any county in the state and her 
dairy shipments the largest. Blue grass abounds in the fertile 
valleys of the Des Moines river and its tributaries, affording 
excellent pasturage for cattle. 

Centuries ago the fertile soil of this section gave rich 
returns to the red men and it never wears out. How true the 
prophec}- of the Indian chief in these valleys hundreds of 3-ears 
ago! Iler resources become richer every day; excellent corn, 
oats, wheat, r3e, barley, millet, tiax, sorghum, anything whicli 
grows in the latitude, can be grown successfully in Wapello 
county soil, elegant samples of the same being shown in the 
exhibit in the coal palace. Ottumwa is the county seat and 
boasts of having the only coal palace under the sun. 

VAN BUREN COUNTY. 

Bidding the pleasant commissioners in the Wapello county 
exhibit a kind adieu until i89i,we turn our thoughts and atten- 
tions for awhile to old Van Barents display of enterprise and 
genius. We are received in warm welcome by the commis- 
sioner of this booth, who is one of the shining stars of the 



290 IOWA LEAVES. 

Keosauqua, Iowa, bar. Who has not heard of Martin Van 
Buren and of Van Buren county, Iowa? which hes along the 
banks of the picturesque Des Moines river, about forty miles 
below Ottumwa and in the extreme southern tier of counties, 
joining corners with Wapello on the southeast, a country rich 
in agricultural and mineral products, one of the richest in the 
galaxy of the ninety and nine in Iowa. Rich in timber, in coal, 
in building material, in bountiful crops and in live stock. Noted 
for the fertility of its soil, its blue grass pastures, meadows of 
timothy and clover, fruits and vegetables, its woolen mills, its 
stone and marble, its orchards and prolific berry patches, hne 
horses, fine cattle, fine farms, industrious farmers, hospitable 
families and the most beautiful maidens in the state of Iowa, 
its prosperous villages, schools and churches and great numbers 
of noted men and women. 

The exhibit which old Van Buren has placed in the coal 
palace is a pretty one, rich in all the products of a beautiful and 
fertile country, artistically arranged, occupying a fine location 
immediately east of the blue grass region exhibit in the south- 
east portion of the building. First we notice a beautiful panel 
above the chief pyramid, in which are two large cornucopias 
wrought of Van Buren county grasses, which till the large dia- 
mond and are surrounded by various colored buntings. In the 
front of the space is a large triangular-shaped pyramid with four 
rows of steps. A huge pumpkin weighing 125 pounds forms 
the corner piece of the first tier, which is tilled with a beautiful 
assortment of apples with vegetables on either side, while large 
bouquets of choice fiowers form a conspicuous feature in the 
entire decorations. 

A veritable "garden patch" of fine vegetables is shown 
here. All that is necessary for the completion of the same is 



IOWA LEAVES. 291 

the hoe and rake and a few of Van Buren's hustling farmers 
to dig them out. All kinds grown in this latitude are seen here 
fully matured and greatly admired by all visitors. Van Buren 
makes a specialty of tine apples and this display is a most 
excellent one, luscious and tempting to the appetites of those 
who have come from fruitless regions. A long row of glass 
bottles stand on the shelves, which contain all the different 
varieties of grain grown in the county, each denoting a most 
luxuriant growth. Fine samples of clover and timothy seed are 
also shown and are among the chief products of her section of 
country. Back of this pyramid is another against the wall and 
contains another beautiful exhibit representing forty-nine differ- 
ent varieties of wood native to Van Buren county. On the 
right of this are the coal, marble, limestone, sandstone and 
potter's clay, all very abundant in the county. On the left 
are elegant displays from her woolen mills at Bonaparte and 
Sterling, which are very fine indeed, consisting of blankets, 
yarns and ready-made clothing, the cloth being manufactured 
at these mills. Near this display are seen an excellent quality 
of cheese and jars of pure sweet butter, which tell a wonderful 
story of Van Buren 's dairy interests. The background of this 
booth is formed of grain in the stalk grown in the county, corn 
predominating largely in the make up. The large pyramid in 
front is surrounded by a huge cone of corn in the ear, ears of 
corn strung and pendent at various points, making Van Buren 's 
wigwam one of the handsomest in the palace. 

Van Buren claims to be one of the best grazing countries 
in the world. Blue grass and white clover are especially abun. 
dant and hence we may expect that she would abound in cattle 
and horses. She also takes the leadership in the raising of fall 
wheat, the crop last year averaging forty bushels to the acre. 



292 IOWA LEAVES. 

Corn grows luxuriantly in her valleys, averaging ordinarily 
sixty-two bushels to the acre. The meadows are fertile in 
timothy. White oats yield large returns. The timber is very 
heavy in this section, especially along the banks of the Des 
Moines river, and maple groves are also plentiful. Her quarries 
of fine building stone in all the varieties, particularly magnesian 
limestone, sandstone and gray marble, are being quarried and 
shipped to all parts of the countr}'. The Chequest gray marble, 
the stone furnished for the Washington monument from Iowa, 
was taken from these quarries in this county. The material 
furnishes many of the handsomest tombstones in the country. 

A manufacturing interest, besides the ones already men- 
tioned, is the L. Burg Wagon & Carriage factory at Farming- 
ton; two cheese factories are also at the same place. Potteries 
are located at Birmingham, Vernon and Bonaparte, all using 
the potter's clay in their own county. These factories are all 
supplied with cheap fuel, as abundance of timber and fifteen 
extensive coal mines furnish an ample supply for all factories 
and numerous inhabitants. This county was settled early by 
excellent families from the middle states, all native Americans, 
who took an early interest in educational matters and special 
pride in their schools; as a result. Van Buren has produced men 
of national fame. 

Keosauqua is the county seat of Van Buren and is a most 
beautifully located town on the banks of the peaceful Des Moines 
river and is one of the old landmarks. All classes of business 
are represented here necessary to supply the wants of a large 
country tributary and her buildings are neat and commodious* 
being built wholly of brick. Her people are an educated and 
aristocratic class and take great pride in their schools and 
churches and the country surrounding her is filled with an ener- 



IOWA LEAVES. 293 

getic and prosperous class of farmers. About forty-five miles 
of the Des Moines river passes through the county which has five 
wagon bridges and one railroad bridge across the same, all sub- 
stantial iron bridges. 

Van Buren, you have done 3'ourself proud in making one of 
the finest exhibits in the coal palace and we hope to meet you 
again in the coal palace of 1891. 

DAVIS COUNTY. 

We will introduce the reader now to Davis county, which 
has gained a most wonderful exhibit for the industrial exposi- 
tion of 1890. We find a very pleasant and agreeable gentleman 
acting as commissioner in this booth; having long been a resi- 
dent of Davis county, he knows whereof he speaks as he explains 
the orreat resources of his own countrv. The decorations here 
are entirely of the products of the soil and are beautiful in the 
extreme. The center of the booth contains a large pyramid of 
shelving on which have been placed all the beautiful fruits in 
season, vegetables above the average and all the grasses and 
grains which abound in the county. The manufacturing indus- 
tries of her section are also largely represented, cheese from the 
Pulaski cheese factories being as fine as any we have ever had 
the pleasure of sampling. We notice an elaborate display of 
flour in different grades and brands, full roller process, from 
numerous mills in Davis county. One part of this booth con- 
tains some very interesting ancient relics; one is an old book 
containing a history of Europe, Asia and Africa, published in 
the year 1761, and a German pra3'er-book published in 1766 — 
very interesting, indeed, to those who love to dwell on ancient 
ideas. The most important among these relics is an old gun 
which has a remarkable historv indeed, one well worthv of 



294 IOWA LEAVES. 

notice. It was carried by a German soldier during the invasion 
of Russia in the year 1812, and the same soldier carried the 
same gun through the invasion of France in the year 18 14; it 
was also carried under Napoleon Bonaparte in the battle of 
Waterloo, June 18, 181 5. Two brass candlesticks, over 
200 years old, stand side by side, while a pair of iron 
snuffers lies close by, equally as ancient. Whose mantel they 
may have adorned in the years cf th^ long ago we did not learn, 
but the light from their tallow candles may have reflected its 
rays on the forms of Romeo and Juliet ; who knows ? A number 
of Indian relics are shown here, tomahawks, arrows, calumet 
peace pipes and a large quantity of furs tanned by Indians, moc- 
casins, beads and all implements of war. Davis county, with 
all her rich products of soil, has also a history in connection with 
these ancient relics. 

Davis county is situated in the extreme southern tier of 
counties, immediately south of Wapello, and west of Van Buren; 
it is third from the Mississippi river, joining lands with Appa- 
noose on the west, which belongs to the blue grass regions and 
is noted for the fertility of its soil, which is rich and loamy, yield- 
ing abundant harvests every year; it is also noted as having 
excellent coal mines, affording cheap fuel for its inhabitants. 
Cattle, horses, hogs and sheep are abundant in this county, 
while the blue grass pasturage along the valleys of the numer- 
ous creeks and rivers are the finest grazing lands in the world. 
Large shipments of stock are made from this section and the 
dairy interests rank with any in the state. 

Bloomfield is the county seat of Davis, on the Chicago, 
Burlington & Kansas City and Wabash & St. Louis railroads, 
both traversing the country from east to west, while the Chi- 
cago, Rock Island & Pacific passes through the northern por- 



IOWA LEAVES. 295 

tion, affording excellent shipping facilities. The people in Davis 
county are a prosperous, educated and happy race, who till the 
soil, raise stock for the markets, improve their homes and take 
great pride in their schools and churches. 

Bloomfield is prettih^ situated and full of enterprise and 
contains a splendid class of citizens. Her schools and churches 
will compare favorably with those in other towns of her size in 
the state and the business blocks are neat and comfortable 
buildings. All classes of business necessary in supplying the 
wants of a large country are represented here. Prominent in 
this booth is seen a card which names this county "the finest 
blue grass county in Iowa," the proving of which we shall 
leave to our blue grass friends in southwestern Iowa. Davis 
has made an excellent showing in the great coal palace and 
industrial exposition and no doubt will double her attractions in 
the palace of 1891. 

MARION COUNTY. 

The longer our journey continues the more interested we 
become, completely enraptured, as it were, with the beautiful 
scenes which surround us. Resting before our eyes in beauty 
and grandeur is the Marion county display. We enter her lovely 
boudoir and the first prominent feature which greets the eye is 
the excellent coal exhibit. The black diamonds are repre- 
sented by huge blocks formed into pyramid shape in the center 
of the booth and we mark this county down as being most 
prolific in this valuable mineral, and upon investigation we find 
that she has forty-four mines in operation in the lower coal 
measures. The veins are six feet in thickness and very uniform. 
The largest mine is the No. 7 shaft of the White Breast 
Coal Company, located at Swan, on the Des Moines branch of 



296 IOWA LEAVES. 

the Chicago, BurHngton & Quincy raih-oad. The products of 
this mine are shipped to western Iowa and Nebraska; the ^■ein 
of coal is about four and one-half feet thick and of the lower 
coal measures. 

The Union mine at Flagler is the next largest mine in the 
county and is operated in the lower coal measures; the vein is 
six feet in thickness and very uniform. The product of this 
mine is shipped to western Iowa and Nebraska over the Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy; the owners are making valuable improve- 
ments at this mine and can largely increase the output the 
coming year. The Diamond mine at Dunreath, on the Wabash 
railroad, has railroad facilities for shipping coal; they have coal 
chutes at this mine to supply the locomotives on the road ; they 
are mining in the lower coal measures, vein five and one-half 
feet thick, and are operating on the lands of the Red Rock Coal 
Company. The Collins mine is within the limits of Knox- 
ville and located on the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific rail- 
road and has splendid facilities for shipping coal. Much of 
the products of this mine is sold in the city. There are several 
mines in the vicinity of Knoxville that have a good local trade 
in the winter season. The North Star Coal Company's mine is 
located near Hamilton and several others in the vicinity haul 
their coal to the Wabash railroad with teams and ship it north. 
There is considerable business done here in the winter season, 
but the great difficulty is in getting it to the railroad. This 
county has more mines in operation than any other in the state, 
the greater part being operated for local trade and are found 
in nearly every township in the county. The mines in the 
southern part of the county are all operated for local trade, 
with the exception of those at Hamilton, before mentioned. 
The lower coal measures extend over a large part of the 



IOWA LEAVES. 297 

county, which will some clay be one of the largest coal producing 
counties in the state; in 1887 the production amounted to 212,- 
695 tons. 

Marion county is located near the center of the state and 
is in the third tier from the south, with the Des Moines river 
running diagonally through it from the northwest to the south- 
east; it is besides well watered by Skunk river in the northeast, 
while White Breast creek and English creek empty their waters 
into the Des Moines near the. eastern line, and numerous other 
small streams, the banks of each being covered with good 
timber. The soil in this county cannot be surpassed for the 
production of grass, wheat, oats and corn, while vegetables 
grow to monstrous size and are elegant in quality. The tim- 
bered and uncultivated land in this county is covered with a 
fine, heavy growth of famous blue grass, making the finest 
pasture for stock known in the world. There is no portion of 
the county but what is settled and most of it in a high state of 
cultivation, showing some of the finest farms in the state of 
Iowa. Some of the best stock in the state is found in this 
county; it has a world-wide reputation for its fine horses, which 
command the highest price in the eastern markets, the facil- 
ities for fine stock-raising having driven the poor stock beyond 
its borders, so that none but the best are kept here. 

The cultivated land produces wonderful crops, while the 
soil will stand drouth better than any other known, and still, the 
surface of the land being rolling, carries off the water in wet 
seasons; therefore, it possesses some of the best farming lands in 
the state. Fruits of all kinds shown in this booth do well in 
this county and exceptionally fine crops of small fruits are 
produced. The timber is of fine quality and very abundant, a 
large amount of walnut timber having been shipped to the 



298 IOWA LEAVES. 

eastern markets. Gray and blue limestone and red and gray 
sandstone of tine quality are quite abundant and ver}' easy to 
quarry; elegant samples of the above are on exhibition in this 
booth. The celebrated Red Rock quarries are situated in this 
county and are being extensively worked and the products 
shipped to St. Louis, Des Moines, Ottumwa and many other 
cities, it being a very handsome and durable building-stone for 
fine residences and business blocks. The limestone quarries at 
Durham and other places are extensively worked and the rock 
shipped in every direction; it is of the finest quality. The 
coal fields in this county are so extensive and the coal of such 
excellent quality that the wealth of the coal production is equal 
to or greater than that produced from the surface of the land. 
The fuel, in both wood and coal, cannot be equaled in any other 
county in the great west. The coal crops out along the Des 
Moines river and every stream and creek in the count}', and a 
glance at the map and location of the stream shows that the 
field covers the entire county. The shipping facilities in these 
regions are very fine, as a glance at the map will show that 
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad traverses it entirely 
from the southeast to the northwest, affording the farmer, the 
coal operator, the wood merchant, the owner of stone quarries 
and all splendid facilities for shipping purposes. The Chicago, 
Rock Island and Pacific railroad passes through the northeast 
portion of the county and the Wabash railroad from the north- 
west to the southeast — all through a rich coal county. These 
are some of the natural advantages posessed by Marion county, 
while it is settled by an intelligent, industrious and refined 
people who are enterprising and progressive and are rapidly 
improving the county. The towns are growing rapidly and 
long ago the cabins of the early settlers were sheds; to-day 



IOWA LEAVES. 299 

large, commodious buildings are seen scattered throughout the 
county. In this booth are seen several pairs of wooden shoes 
from the wooden shoe palace, which was built at Pella some 
few months previous, and were made by the Hollanders who 
have a thriving settlement near this place. They are an in- 
dustrious colony of people and in winter thcv wear these 
wooden shoes. We notice in this display elegant samples of 
flour from roller process mills in this county, and one grade 
bears the wooden shoe brand which sells readily on the Holland 
market. 

The Iowa Central University of Pella is one of the lead- 
ing institutions of the state and has a wide reputation as a tirst- 
class school of instruction. The State Industrial Home for the 
adult blind is also established at Knoxville in this county and 
the work of building commenced, which of itself will be a large 
manufacturing institution. The advantages herein named are 
all possessed by this county and when we look over her 
wonderful exhibit in the coal palace we pronounce her one 
of the richest in the great west. Those seeking liomes in other 
lands could not find a more wealthy, healthy or more beauti- 
fully situated county than Marion in the coal palace regions of 
southeastern Iowa. 

JEFFERSON COUNTY. 

Passing along the large, main aisle we find that the latch- 
string hangs on the outside of Jefferson county's magnificent 
apartments and we pass in. To say that we were amazed but 
vaguely expresses our surprise as we gazed on the elaborate 
display made by this county. So very skillful and artistic are 
these elegant decorations we almost wonder within ourselves 
wliether or not they were manipulated by human hands. This 



300 IOWA LEAVES. 

booth is under the supervision of three very pleasant and agree- 
able commissioners and we were ro3'ally entertained by them 
during our sojourn here. As we note the many beautiful things 
in this bower of beauty we are led to believe that Jefferson 
is a grand county. The first elegant displays that meet our 
gaze are the fruits, which are an index of the orchards in this 
county. Jefferson dotes on her apples particularly, which her 
people declare are the finest in the state. The vegetables rank 
among the very best in the palace. The different varieties of 
grasses and grain are excellent and go toward making Jeffer- 
son one of the most productive counties in the state. The dis- 
play of native woods denotes a marvelously heavy growth of 
timber in her section, numbering over loo varieties. The dis- 
play of tine arts is second to none in the palace, while the 
manufacturing industries of the county are largely represented. 
The Fairfield bottling works occupy large space with a fine 
display of bottled goods and the famous Louden Bros, of Fair- 
field have an excellent exhibit in hay tools manufactured by 
them and the finest we have ever seen for loading hay. The 
Tarney & Company Wagon factory of the same place shows 
a fine wagon of its manufacture, while the Fairfield canning 
factory shows an elegant line of canned goods. 

The marble works of Fairfield are represented by samples 
of beautiful work. Two roller process flouring mills and one 
furniture factor}'' have elegant displays and occupy large space. 
A cotton plant just opening its buds is admired by many. Coal 
and tiling are other prominent features seen in this booth. The 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad traverses this county 
from east to west, affording excellent facilities to any part of 
the United States, while the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific 
traverses it from north to south. 



IOWA LEAVES. 301 

Jefferson county is noted as being one of the richest coun- 
ties in the state — rich in timber, in building material, in grain 
and liv-e stock. Jefferson for variety of products is one of the 
most remarkable in the state. Splendid farms, flocks of sheep, 
tine cattle and horses — certainly Jefferson is rich in her posses- 
sions. Fairfield, the county seat, is beautifully situated and is 
noted for its elegant school system, tine churches and Parson's 
College, an excellent Presbyterian institution, is also located 
here in the northern portion of the city. Her electric light 
system is one of the finest in the state and at night the wh(Ue 
city is beautifully illuminated. The residence portion of the 
city contains many beautiful homes, while her people are noted 
throughout the west for their great hospitality. Jefferson 
county can show some of the most elegant farms in the state, 
while handsome and durable farm residences greet the e3'e of 
the traveler in every direction. Cozy school-houses are seen 
in every district and large herds of elegantl}^ fed stock are seen 
grazing in rich blue grass pastures. Jefferson has splendid 
grazing facilities in the valleys of numerous streams of Vv'ater 
which flow through her section and has a number of substantial 
iron bridges spanning the streams at different places in the 
county. 

Jefferson has ten coal mines in operation. The Jefferson 
County Coal Company at Perlee have made valuable improve- 
ments and have largely increased their output; it is now one of 
tjlie best paying mines in the county. Perlee is an old mining town. 
The Coal Port mine, about ten miles east of Fairfield, is one of 
the principal mines in Jefferson county. There was not much 
done at the mine in 1885, but since the present manager took 
charge of the mine the production has steadily increased. In 
1887, 5,000 tons were mined and shipped; the principal market 



302 IOWA LEAVES. 

was ]Mt. Pleasant, Iowa. This mine is located on the eastern 
part of the Iowa coal fields. The vein here is about four feet 
in thickness and supposed to be the lower vein of coal. The 
mines located on Lick creek, three miles south of Libertyville, 
are mining considerable coal; it is hauled to the Ft. Madison 
& Northern Narrow Gauge railroad. The i"est of the mines 
in the county are operated exclusively for local business. The 
output of coal for this county in 1886 was 1,083 tons; in 1887 it 
was 10,397 tons, being an increase of 9,314 and the prospect is 
good for a still larger increase the coming year. These are 
only a few of the great advantages which Jefferson county 
possesses and one that knows can only say to those seeking 
homes in the west, if 3'ou wish to locate in a country teeming 
with all the advantages which this section contains, where the 
climate is all that is desired, whose soil yields rich returns to 
the farmer for his labor, where cheap fuel is abundant, whose 
people are an intelligent and industrious class, come to Jefferson 
and view her broad expanse. Her excellent showing in the 
great coal palace demonstrates this fact to our people that she 
is one of the richest counties in any land under the shining sun. 

"proud MAHASKA." 

This county was named after one of the most noted Indian 
chiefs of tne lowas, Ma-has-ka (which means white cloud), a 
descendant of the Mau-haw-gaw. The chief led his warriors in 
eighteen battles against the Sioux on the north and the Osages 
on the south and never failed to achieve a victory. He made 
his home on the Des Moines river, about 100 miles above 
its mouth, and must have been something of a Mormon, for it 
is said he had seven wives. In 1824 he was one of a party of 
chiefs who visited Washington. He left his home on the banks 



IOWA LEAVES. 303 

of the Des Moines to go down the river on his way to join his 
party, and when near where the city of Keokuk is now located 
he stopped to prepare and eat his venison. He had just com- 
menced his meal when someone struck him on the back. Turn- 
ing round he was surprised to see one of his wives, Rant-che- 
wai-mie (female flying pigeon), standing with an uplifted 
tomahawk in her hand. She accosted him with, "Am I your 
w^ife.^ Are you my husband.^ If so I will go with you to 
Maw-he-hum-ne-chi (the American big house) and see and 
shake the hand of In-co-ho-nee," meaning the great father, as 
they call the President. Mahaska answered: "Yes; 3'ou are my 
wife. I am your husband. I have been a long time from you. 
I am glad to see you. You are m}' pretty wife and a brave 
man always loves to see a pretty woman." Ma-has-ka went on 
to Washington accompanied by his "pretty wife,"" Rant-che- 
wai-mie, w^ho received many presents, but saw many things of 
which she disapproved. When she returned she called together 
the matrons and maidens of the tribe and warned them against 
the vices and follies of their white sisters. This good Indian 
woman was killed by being thrown from her horse soon after 
her return from Washington. In 1834 Ma-has-ka was also killed 
about sixty miles from his home on the Nodaw^ay by an encni}', 
who took a cowardly advantage of him. At the time of his 
death he was fifty years of age. After his death all his surviv- 
ing wives went into mourning and poverty, according to the 
custom of the tribe, except one named Mis-so-rah-tar-ra-haw 
(female deer that bounds over the prairie), who refused to the 
end of her life to be comforted, saying that her husband "was 
a great brave and was killed by dogs," meaning low fellows. 

The coal palace idea first originated in this county with 
J. W. Johnson of the Oskaloosa Globe. Citizens of that place 



304 IOWA LEAVES. 

seemingl}' considered the matter and appointed a committee, 
and Mr. A. Wetherill of Oskaloosa drew up a plan much upon 
the same idea as that of the present coal palace. For some 
reason the whole matter fell through and Ottumwa jumped into 
the scheme and right royally have they carried it out to the last 
letter. But Mahaska reaps a great benefit and the liberality and 
public spirit of her citizens have materially contributed to the 
success of the coal palace, in the glory of which she deserves a 
large share. 

One great central pyramid of steps contains the exhibit 
comprising elegant specimens of all kinds of grains in jars, 
including some of Mahaska's celebrated wheat, that produce 
forty-two bushels to the acre. There are corn, oats, rye, 
timothy, clover, broom corn, flax, onions, pumpkins, squashes, 
melons of all varieties; there are sweet potatoes that would 
make Muscatine island turn green with envy, and splendid Irish 
potatoes, which are greatly admired by all our friends from 
Ireland, and in fruit Mahaska takes the cake, especially in 
apples. Noticeable among the fruits is the garden peach 
"Tuck," the ''blizzard proof" peach originated by a Mr. Hen- 
dricks and propagated by Mr. John Chamberlain of Oskaloosa. 
It is confidently claimed that this peach can be grown with 
success and great profit in this latitude, and is believed by 
many to be one of the most important developments yet made 
by Iowa horticulturists. In this booth the e^-e rests on pears, 
plums, twenty varieties of grapes, persimmons, paw-paws and 
chestnuts; whether or not the latter can be called a fruit, one 
thing is sure, they grow very prolifically in Mahaska county. 
The artistic display is very beautiful; arranged in an effective 
manner are life-sized crayon portraits, oil paintings and sketches, 
the products of Mahaska's genius and skill. All this with an 



IOWA LEAVES. 305 

exquisite display of cut roses from Kemble's Floral Company 
of Oskaloosa, which has been renewed daily, has made this 
exhibit a bower of beaut}' and delight to all ladies visiting the 
palace. Mahaska day and President Ilarrison^s day came on 
the same day, but this did not dispel the fact that this was 
Mahaska day at the coal palace, and fully 5,000 people came 
into Ottumwa from the county on presidential day, bringing 
with them bushels of roses to decorate with. Prominent on the 
rostrum was a stand covered entirely with trailing smilax and 
all colors of Marcholneil roses, which was placed in front of 
the President after he was seated, and was greatly admired by 
the whole presidential party. After the President's reception 
in the afternoon twenty-three Welsh coal miners from Oska- 
loosa filed on the stage platform and gave a full chorus, " The 
Comrade at Arms," which was fine and greatly appreciated by 
the large assembly present in the auditorium; their singing- 
master accompanied them and kept perfect time during the 
rendition of the same, while the harmonious blending of voices 
so carefully and beautifully trained, from the deep bass to 
the high, tine tenor, fell on the ear like the laugh of a silvery 
wave, or the rippling of many waters; we were completely 
enraptured, as it were, with the sweet voices of these toiling 
miners. 

King Coal dwells ever underground, 

Surrounded by his gnomes, 
Who carve his chambers in the earth 

And scoop out rocky domes. 

Ever they work by torchlight, there 

The clear sun never shines 
To glad the hearts of the thousands toiling, 

Toiling in the mines. 

But still they burrow like patient moles; 

They work and gaily sing. 
Their voices ringing through the vaults 

In praises of their king. 



306 IOWA LEAVES. 

In order that the reader may retain and carry with him 
the grand story of wealth, productiveness, vast resources, 
material prosperity and general comfort told by Mahaska's 
exhibit, the following posters are conspicuously displayed and 
their eloquence speaks for itself: "Mahaska county is first in 
coal"; "Second in hogs"; "First in horses"; "Fourth in agricult- 
ural products." Fine farms, with a court-house that cost $75,- 
000. Coal output 18,000 tons, one-fourth the output of the 
entire state. The commissioners who have labored so zealously 
and faithfully to collect and prepare for this exhibit are Samuel 
Rowe, chairman and treasurer of the Board of Trade of Oska- 
loosa; W. A. Bryan of New Sharon; Andrew Baker of Eddy- 
ville; Col. Swalm, secretary of Oskaloosa committee. 

Mahaska county is in the third tier of counties from the 
south line of the state and the fifth from the Mississippi river, 
its south line lying twelve miles north of the coal palace. The 
county is drained by three rivers and underneath its fertile soil 
are rich beds of coal, nine-tenths of which are unoccupied. It 
has thirty-nine coal mines in operation employing over 2,000 
men. The output last year was 1,000,000 tons of coal 
and $1,250,000 was paid out for the employment of miners. 
Oskaloosa is the county seat, with a population of 8,000; 
it has waterworks, electric lights, gas, free mail delivery, 
street cars, telephones, fine drainage, stately buildings, beautiful 
residences, three colleges, fine public school system, fifteen 
churches and all the best improvements of which western 
towns can boast. The people are progressive and business here 
is always prosperous. Mahaska wants more capital, new fac- 
tories and lots of new people. Mahaska is also exceedingly 
rich in timber, which is found all along the banks of the Des 
Moines and Skunk rivers and three tributaries. There is an 



IOWA LEAVES. 307 

abundance of the best limestone for building purposes, a mon- 
ument of limestone from the quarries of Osborne & Co. at 
Eddyville forming one of the features of the exhibit. Ma- 
haska is "first in coal"; her manufacturing industries are 
numerous — flouring mills, oatmeal mills, foundries and machine 
shops, the Seeveres Manufacturing Company of brick and 
tile, glue factory, the Week Furnace Company, etc. Five rail- 
roads furnish excellent transportation facilities for Mahaska 
and fuel is a matter of insignificant expense. If the Indian 
chief Ma-has-ka could arise to-day from his long abode in the 
forest, on the banks of the peaceful Des Moines river, and look 
upon the excellent exhibit made by the county that bears his 
name, in the great coal palace and industrial exposition at 
Ottumwa, he would cry aloud in all his Indian eloquence: 
*'Well done, proud Ma-lias-ka, queen of Iowa counties, the 
home of my boyhood days! Many moons and many winters 
have passed by since my beloved people roamed wild and free 
through your forests, which have faded like a vision, and over 
the hillside and plain 3'our orchards have sprung up in great 
beauty, and I can see field after field of golden grain where 
then waved the tall prairie grass. All honor, profit and praise 
to this country, which the Great Spirit gave the noble lowas 
centuries ago! " 

KEOKUK COUNTY. 

Keokuk count}' derived its name from the great Indian 
chief, who belonged to the Sac branch of the nation, named 
Keokuk or Watchful Fox ; he was born on Rock river in 1 780. 
He was a great orator and was also entitled to rank as warrior, 
for he possessed courage and energy and at the same time a 
cool judgment. He had an intelligent appreciation of the power 



308 IOWA LEAVES. 

and greatness of the United States and saw the futihty of Black 
Hawk's hope to contend successfully against the government. 
In his first battle, while young, he had killed a Sioux and for 
this he was honored with a feast by his tribe. 

At the be.orinnino: of the Black Hawk war an affair trans- 
pired which was dignified by the name of the Battle of Still- 
man's Run, in which some 300 volunteers under Major Stillman 
took prisoners five of Black Hawk's men who were approach- 
ing with a flag of truce. One of the prisoners was shot by 
Stillman's men. Black Hawk had also sent five other men to 
follow the bearers of the flag. The troops came upon these 
and killed two of them ; the other three reached their camp and 
gave the alarm. Black Hawk's warriors then charged upon 
Stillman's advancing troops and completely routed them. This 
failure to respect the flag of truce so exasperated the Indians 
that it was with great difficulty that Keokuk could restrain his 
warriors from espousing the cause of Black Hawk. Stillman's 
defeat was followed by a war-dance, in which Keokuk took 
part. After the dance he called a council of war and made a 
speech in which he admitted the justice of their complaints. 
The blood of their brethren slain by the white men while bear- 
ing a flag of truce called loudly for vengeance. Said he: "I 
am your chief and it is m}' duty to lead you to battle if, after 
fully considering the matter, you are determined to go. But, 
before you decide on taking this important step, it is wise to 
inquire into the chances of success. But if you do determine 
to go upon the warpath I will agree to lead you on one condi- 
tion, viz., that before we go we will kill all our old men and 
our wives and children to save them from a lingering death by 
starvation and that everyone of us determine to leave our 
homes on the other side of the iSIississippi." 



IOWA LEAVES. 309 

Keokuk so forcibly portrayed in other parts of this speech 
the great power of the United States and of the hopeless pros- 
pect before them that his warriors at once abandoned all 
thought of joining Black Hawk. The name Keokuk signified 
Watchful Fox. As we have seen, he eventually superseded 
Black Hawk and was recognized by the United States as the 
principal chief of the Sac and Fox nation, which indeed had 
much to do in stinging the pride of the imperious Black Hawk. 
In person he was strong, graceful and commanding, with fine 
features and an intelligent countenance. He excelled in horse- 
manship, dancing and all athletic exercises. He was courageous 
and skillful in war, but mild and polite in peace. He had a fine 
son, a promising bo}', who died at Keokuk's village on the 
banks of the Des Moines river in Mahaska county. Keokuk 
himself became dissipated during the later years of his life in 
Iowa. It was reported after his removal with his people to 
Indian Territory he died of delirium tremens. Iowa has hon- 
ored his memor}' in the name of one of her counties and one 
of her principal cities in the southeastern part of the state. 

Keokuk county has her display in the extreme northwest 
portion of the palace, on the north aisle, and the doors of her 
booth are thrown wide open that all may step in and learn of 
her great resources. The entire decorations were made by the 
county — the agricultural and mechanical below and the fine 
arts upstairs — and as w^e gaze on her elegant display we are led 
to believe that she may be one of the wealthiest counties in the 
state. The commissioner in charge of this booth is Captain J. 
T. Parker of Sigourney in this county, whom we find to be a 
most pleasant and agreeable gentleman and is ably assisted in 
the work here b}' his estimable wife. Both have made many 
friends during their sojourn in the palace city and gave us much 



310 IOWA LEAVES. 

information regarding their country. Directly in the front part 
of this booth are two beautiful and thrifty Chinese palms and 
underneath their spreading branches is seen a number of hand- 
some aquaria, which contain a special exhibit of fancy gold 
and pearl fish, which we shall describe further on. In the center 
of the booth is a large pyramid of steps, completely covered 
with excellent fruits, vegetables, grains and grasses and an ele- 
gant line of canned goods put up by Keokuk's own domestic 
hands. This exhibit is one of the most complete in the palace 
and crowds linger around it every day, eager to gaze on all 
the many beautiful features which it contains. In one corner 
we notice a very handsome and highly polished center table, 
made of fifty-two kinds of wood. A checker-board inlaid with 
dark and light wood on the top makes it a very attractive piece 
of work. These woods are all native to Keokuk county. Six 
flouring mills are represented in this booth — all roller process — 
with excellent grades of flour. A complete line of fancy 
wicker work manufactured at Keota, this county, is another 
flne display and one greatly admired b}' the ladies in passing 
through the palace. Six cheese factories are represented with 
an elegant line of cheese, which speaks volumes for Keokuk in 
this industry. Fine samples of brick and tile form a pretty 
fence around the exhibit and were manufactured at Sigourney. 
A miniature monument of genuine granite occupies a prominent 
position and advertises well the workmanship of the cutter. 
Among the vegetables we notice large, well-matured potatoes, 
which the commissioner informs us grew in six weeks' growth 
in Keokuk's loamy soil and weigh two pounds. From a card 
conspicuous in this booth we take the following facts: "Ship- 
ments ending the 3'ear June 30, 1890: Horses, 12 cars; cattle, 
685; hogs, 1,290; sheep, 22; rye, ^^; corn, 9.^2; oats, 1,004; 



IOWA LEAVES. 311 

flour, 150,000; products of the dairy, 855 tons; brick and tile, 
95 cars; soft coal, 25,962; miscellaneous, 10,357." 

Reader! What do you think of this county and of the 
products of her soil? of her facilities as a stock country? and 
of the products of her mines? It is indeed astonishing. There 
are twelve coal mines in this county at What Cheer, extensively 
operated and products shipped to all parts of the country. 

Keokuk county also has a history in ancient relics and 
our attention is called tirst to a large, old-fashioned chair which 
occupies a prominent position in this booth ; and a remarkable 
story is connected with its past. It was made in the }ear 1686 
in England for John Buckly by his son Jonathan and was 
brought to Philadelphia when that great city was a very small 
village. William Penn sat in it many times in his davs ; the 
first four presidents of the United States occupied it during 
their lifetime and John Quincy Adams in his day; the chair 
was placed on the rostrum and occupied by President Harrison 
during his visit to the coal palace. This wonderful curiosity is 
owned by Miss L. M. Buckly of Keokuk county and has been 
remarkably well preserved; it bears the date of 1686 on the 
back, in old English figures, and drew crowds to Keokuk's 
apartments every day. W^e notice another great curiosity 
hanging on the west wall of this booth, a quilt made by the 
Ladies' Social Circle of Keota, on which all the business firms 
of that city are represented on separate cards, also all the pro- 
fessional men. It is as perfect a business directory as we have 
ever seen and attracts all eyes; each card is as neat as if printed 
by the press and is outlined on cream silk with red silk floss. 
It is a beautiful and very attractive piece of handiwork and at- 
tracts the attention of all ladies, each pronouncing it a wonder- 
ful piece of fancy work. 



312 IOWA LEAVES. 

Keokuk county lies directly north of Jefferson, in the third 
tier from the south line of the state and third from the Missis- 
sippi river, directly east of Mahaska, in the fertile valleys of the 
classic Skunk river. Sigourney is the county seat of this 
county and is a wideawake business city; all classes of business 
are represented here necessary in supplying a large and beau- 
tiful county tributary; it has good railroad facilities for ship- 
ping. Sigourney is an old town and the traveler is at once 
surprised when he sees the extent of her business qualities. 
Her citizens are an intelligent and aristocratic class and take 
great pride in their schools and churches; she has an excellent 
public school system and all denominations of the Christian 
religion have church homes in this city. The soil and climate 
of this county are adapted for the raising of corn, oats, wheat, 
rye, barley, flax, broom corn, sorghum, blue grass, timothy 
and clover; her pastures teem with an elegant growth of blue 
grass; therefore, as a natural consequence, she is noted for fine 
cattle, horses, hogs and sheep, which are shipped to the market 
at all seasons of the 3'ear and find ready sale. The home of 
the industrious farmer in this section indicates wealth, prosper- 
ity, contentment and intelligence, and as fine farms as are found 
in the west are seen in this county; abundant crops being raised 
here every year. Native timber is very heavy in this county, 
which, with abundance of coal and plenty of water, is well 
adapted for all kinds of manufacturing industries; surely those 
in search of homes within the limits of our great state would 
do well to investigate the great natural advantages which this 
county possesses. Thornburg is a pretty, picturesque village, 
near which is located the gold, silver and pearl fish fishery 
of Bruce Bros. Their exhibit in this booth attracted wide 
attention, showing over 150 beautiful, health}' flsh of their 



IOWA LEAVES. 313 

own raising, except three imported Japanese fan tails, three of 
lifty which they imported to raise. 

Bruce Bros, are ^-oung men of high social standing in the 
community in which they live and are making a grand success 
of their business in the west, having located here but three 
years ago. They are the only wholesale and retail dealers in 
fancy, gold and pearl fish west of Pittsburg, Penn,, from which 
citv the}' came to Keokuk county, Iowa. They ha\e ten acres 
in ponds and every facility for the successful raising of these 
fish. No longer will western people be compelled to send to 
Chicago or eastern points to dealers for these fish, as they can 
be had in any quantity desired at this fishery at Thornburg, 
Iowa. They deal in all styles of aquaria, globes, stands, orna- 
ments, fish food and water plants, and on presidential day at 
the coal palace decorated one of their handsomest globes in 
flowers and put in it four of their most beautiful gold, silver 
and pearl fish and sent it to "Baby McKee" by grandpa Har. 
rison, with Bruce Bros.' compliments. Iowa is well adapted to 
the successful raising of fish, as is demonstrated by the wonder- 
ful success of Bruce Bros. Keokuk was a great chief and 
Keokuk count}', which bears his name, is a great county and 
one of the finest among the ninety and nine in Iowa and her 
exhibit in the great coal palace of 1890 demonstrated this fact 
to our people. 

MONROE COUNTY. 

Last, but not at all the least, we look upon Monroe county, 
the last county exhibit in the palace, situated at the left of the 
main entrance. The pleasant commissioner from Albia lowers 
the bars and we pass into this great countr}'; we are both 
surprised and pleased when we gaze upon her magnificent dis- 



314 IOWA LEAVES. 

play of genius and enterprise. Our eyes rest first on the 
"Monroe County Queen/' made entirely of the products of the 
soil by the ladies of Albia. She stands on a decorated pedestal, 
queen of all she surveys and attracts the eye of ever}' visitor to 
the palace. Her hat is made of plaited oat's straw, very broad- 
rimmed and trimmed in natural field flowers of all colors, inter- 
mingled with wild red berries. Her bangs are of corn-silk, 
being very blonde and have been curled on a modern curler, 
while her long back hair falling so gracefully around her 
shoulders is of flax, which has been scutched and hackled until 
as fine as silk. Her basque is made of some light material com- 
pletely covered with flax seed, which has been put on with glue, 
the effect of which is very beautiful indeed. Her dress skirt is 
also made in the latest style, with drop skirt and covered with 
millet and mustard seed, with set-in panels made of black 
muslin sprinkled with coal and diamond dust, which sparkles 
and glistens like diamonds and the drop skirt falls over a 
trimming of the same material. Her jewelry consists of pin, 
earrings and necklace made of small blocks of coal, representing 
jet. Her face is a make-up of a combination of the different 
kinds of flour and is astonishingly striking and touched off by 
"Laird's bloom of youth." Her gloves are of old gold color 
covered with mustard seed and she holds a small sc3the 
in her left hand covered with blue grass heads. She stands here 
in all her magnificent beauty on a pedestal of grasses and grains 
and, aside from the blue grass cow in the blue grass regions 
exhibit, is the only figure in the palace composed entirely of the 
products of Monroe county. Near by this queen we notice an 
old clock, so old that 149 years have passed by since it first 
stood on "grandfather's floor," being too large of course for the 
shelf and it still ticks, ticks, ticks, as the iron weights go slowly 



IOWA LEAVES. 315 

downward. What a history these old clocks always have. We 
look upon stalks of corn in this booth thirteen feet high, of 
wonderful growth, containing full, large, round ears and a 
magnificent display of vegetables. We almost wish we might 
live in Monroe county when we look upon her elegant display 
in this line. There are only sixteen cheese factories represented 
here and a large shelf extending around three sides of the 
exhibit contains the samples from each. This is an excellent 
showing of Monroe^s dairy interests. The numerous and beau- 
tiful varieties of grain displa3'ed, both in the stalk and in glass 
jars, are wonderful to look upon and denote a rich and fertile 
soil in her section. Elegant fruits in season are shown, fine 
apples particularly and Monroe's orchards are groaning to-day 
with their burdens of luscious fruit. 

Monroe county is the second county from the south line of 
the state and the fifth from the Mississippi river and directly 
west of Wapello. Monroe is noted for the fertility of its soil 
and fine coal beds, which are extensively mined and products 
shipped to all parts of the countr}'. There are nineteen mines 
in operation at the present time and seven of these have excel- 
lent railroad facilities for shipping coal. Three of these are 
located west of Albia, on the main line of the Chicago, Burling- 
ton & Quincy railroad; two are on the Iowa Central railroad, 
northeast of Albia; two others are east of Albia, on the 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad; one at Chisholm, and 
one at Avery. There are several small mines in the vicinity of 
Avery that haul their coal in wagons and ship it. There are 
some small mines both north and south of Albia that are work- 
ing in the upper vein of coal. The product is sold at local 
sales. The mines that are doing a shipping business are work- 
ing in the middle seam of the lower coal measures and nearly 



316 IOWA LEAVES. 

all of them increased their output last year and all are prepar- 
ing to increase their business this coming 3'ear. Monroe is 
bounded by five large coal-producing counties — Marion, 
Mahaska, Wapello, Appanoose and Lucas — and is in the center 
of the finest part of the Iowa coal fields. This county produced 
in 1887 183,505 tons and has greatly increased the output since. 
The farms in Monroe rank among the best in the state and 
large crops are raised here every year. Corn, oats, wheat, rye, 
barley, millet, flax, clover, blue grass and timothy have luxuri- 
ant growth and cattle, horses, hogs and sheep are raised by 
the thousand and shipped to other markets. 

Monroe's reputation for fine horses extends far and wide; 
they command the highest prices in the eastern markets. Her 
raili-oad facilities are excellent. The great ''Q." route passes 
through the count}' from east to west, with branches extend- 
ing both north and south through fertile countries. Albia 
is the county seat of Monroe, beautifully located on the main 
line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad and is one of 
the prettiest towns in the state. Elegant schools and churches 
are found here, while the people are an intelligent and indus- 
trious class. The business portion of the town surrounds a 
pretty square, in which is located a handsome court-house. All 
classes of business are carried on here — successful in supplying 
the wants of a wealthy country surrounding her. A branch 
line of the ''Q." runs from here north to Des Moines through 
a fine country and has large patronage. The Cramer house in 
Albia is a fine brick hotel and is successfully operated by Mr. 
J. B. Rufner, late of Des Moines, who runs a tirst-class house in 
every particular. 

All in all, Monroe county is hard to beat in her numerous 
advantages and is as fine a country as is found an3-where on 



IOWA LEAVES. 317 

the continent. So ends a description of the marvelous exhibits 
made by nine productive counties in southeastern Iowa, which 
are the finest ever witnessed in the world. There are yet four 
other excellent counties in southeastern Iowa which are not 
represented in the palace — Henry, Lee, Des Moines and 
Louisa; therefore, we shall make a general description of 
these as we pass through them. 

LEE COUXTY. 

First is Lee county, which lies along the Mississippi valley, 
forming the extreme southeast corner of our great state and 
one of the richest in agricultural resources. Ft. Madison is 
the county seat, located on the west bank of the Mississippi, on 
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy and the Santa Fe railroads; 
it is a thriving town of about 4,000 inhabitants, has excel- 
lent schools and colleges, handsome church edifices and an intel- 
ligent and prosperous class of people. 

The Mississippi valley is noted for teh great fertility of its 
soil, and so is the Des Moines, and Lee county lies between the 
two; so the reader may judge of her great advantages. Every- 
thing known to the latitude grows prolitically in this section of 
country and some of the most elegant orchards found in the 
west are located in Lee county, sending forth thousands of bush- 
els of luscious apples every year to other markets, while small 
fruits also 3'ield large returns. The climate is unsurpassed 
in the west and Keokuk, one of the largest and best cities in 
the state, is located within her border on the west bank of the 
great Mississippi, in the extreme southeast corner. Montrose 
is another pretty town; here the famous apple orchards of so 
much interest are located. 

In 1809 a military post was established where Ft. Madison 
is now located, but, of course, the country was not open to white 



318 IOWA LEAVES. 

settlers until after the "Black Hawk Purchase." In i834troops 
were stationed at the point where Montrose is now located and 
at that time the place was called Ft. Des Moines. At the 
foot of the lower rapids there was a place which, prior to 1834, 
was known as Farmers' Trading Post. In September of that 
year a meeting of half-breed Indians and their assigns was held 
in the trading-house then owned by Isaac C. Campbell. The 
object of the meeting was to petition congress for the passage 
of a law granting them the privilege to sell and convey their 
respective titles to what was then known as the Half-Breed 
Reservation, according to the laws of Missouri. In attendance 
on this meeting were representatives from Prairie du Chien and 
St. Louis. At this time there were about nine families residing 
in the vicinity and after the adjournment of the meeting the 
resident citizens repaired to the inn of John Gaines to talk over 
their prospects when the half-breed tribe should become extinct. 
They looked forward to the time when a city should grow up 
at that point. John Gaines called the meeting to order and 
made a speech in which he said the time had now come to 
agree upon a name for the town. He spoke of Chief Keokuk 
as a friend of the white man and proposed his name for the 
future cit}'. The proposition met with favor and the name was 
adopted. In 1847 the town was laid out and a public sale of 
lots took place in June. Only two or three lots were sold, 
although many attended from St. Louis and other points. In 
1840 the greater portion of Keokuk was dense forest, the im- 
provement being only a few cabins. In 1S47 a census of the 
place gave a population of 620. During the year 1832 Captain 
James White made a claim on the present site of Montrose and 
in the same year, soon after the close of the Black Hawk war, 
seven persons made claims on the site where Ft. Madison now 



IOWA LEAVES. 319 

stands. In 1833 these claims were purchased by John and Na- 
thaniel Knapp, upon which in 1S35 they laid out the town. 

Lee county is rich in her possessions, has excellent railroad 
facilities and the traveler is delighted with the beautiful scenery 
which surrounds him in passing through her section of country. 

DES MOINES COUNTY. 

, The first white settlement made in this county was in the 
fall of 1832. Daniel Tothero came with his family and settled 
on the prairie about three miles from the Mississippi river. 
About the same time Samuel White with his family erected 
his cabin near the river at what is known as the Upper Bluff, 
within the limits of the present city of Burlington. This was 
before the extinction of the Indian title, for that did not take 
place before June i, 1833, when the government acquired the 
territory under what was known as the "Black Hawk Pur- 
chase." There was then a government military post at Rock 
Island and some dragoons came down from that place during 
the next winter and drove Tothero and AVhite over the river, 
burning their cabins. White remained in Illinois until the first 
of the following June, when the Indians surrendered possession 
of the "Black Hawk Purchase," and on that very day was on 
the ground and built his second cabin. This cabin stood on 
what is now Front street, between Court and High streets, in 
the city of Burlington. Soon after Mr. White's return his 
brother-in-law, Doolittle, joined him and in 1834. they laid out 
the original town, naming it Burlington for the town of that 
name in Vermont. The name was given at the request of John 
Gray, a Vermonter, and a friend of the proprietors. During 
the year 1833 there was considerable settlement made in the 
vicinity and soon a mill was erected by Mr. Donnell on Flint 



320 IOWA LEAVES. 

creek, three miles from Burlington. In 1837 ^^^jor McKell 
erected a sawmill in the town. In June, 1834, congress passed 
an act attaching the "Black Hawk Purchase" to the territory 
of Michigan for temporary government. In September of the 
same year the legislature of Michigan divided this purchase 
into two counties — Des Moines and Dubuque. They also 
organized a county court in each county and for Des Moines 
county made the seat of justice at Burlington. The first court 
was held in April, 1835, in a log house. In 1838 Iowa was 
made a separate territory and Burlington was made the capital 
and so remained until after the admission into the Union as a 
state. The territorial legislature met for several 3'ears in the 
first church erected in Burlington, known as "Old Zion," where 
the present elegant opera-house is now located. The author 
has a warm spot in her heart for Burlington and Des Moines 
counties, being the country in which she was born, and her 
parents were among the first settlers of Iowa, locating in Des 
Moines county in 1838. 

Now pass we o'er a few fast-fleeting years 
With their joys and sorrows, their hopes and fears. 
On something change is written every day 
And time is passing; placed along the way 
New men and scenes upon the Iowa stage, 
Which still are living on historic page. 

Des Moines county lies along the western banks of the 
Mississippi river in the extreme eastern portion of the state and 
in the second tier from the south line. The Mississippi valley 
is noted throughout the world for the fertility of its soil and 
for the numerous great cities which have sprung up along its 
banks from its source to its mouth. The agricultural resources 
of this county are known far and wide, yet to the world there 
is much to tell of the people who have placed it in the front 



IOWA LEAVES. 321 

ranks of the ninet}' and nine in Iowa. The soil in this count}' 
is deep, rich and loamy and never wears out and yields large 
returns every year to the husbandmen. Corn, oats, wheat, 
barley, rye, millet and flax are the principal products raised 
here and abundance of blue grass, timothy and clover abound 
throughout her section, making her one of the finest stock coun- 
tries in the world. Her grazing facilities are unsurpassed. 
Beautiful streams of pure, fresh water steal their way through 
all portions of the county, which empty their waters into the 
deep channels of the great Father of Waters and afford an 
excellent supply for the thousands of cattle which graze along 
their banks. The traveler in passing through this section of 
country is favorably impressed with the beauty of its landscapes 
and the number of fine farms and farm residences which greet 
the eye in ever}' direction. Neat churches and school buildings 
are also seen in every district and on every hand may be seen 
indications of wealth, prosperity and comfort. The great "Q.'^ 
route penetrates the county entirely from east to west, while 
the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Northern traverses it from 
north to south and numerous other roads pass through different 
portions of the same, affording excellent shipping facilities for all. 
Burlington is the county seat of Des Moines and has a population 
of about 30,000 and is one of the wealthiest cities in the state, 
a full description of which is given in another portion of this 
book. Middletown, Danville, Medeapolis, Denmark, Augusta 
and Kossuth are all flourishing villages and take great pride in 
their schools and churches. West Burlington has assumed 
large proportions during the past two years, a description of 
which is also given in another part of this book. Middletown 
is a small but picturesque village, filled with a charitable and 
hospitable people and is the place where the author of this book 



322 ion' A LEAVES. 

first saw the light of the world in 1856. This pretty village 
lies nine miles west of the city of Burlington, on the main line 
of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, and is surrounded 
by a splendid farming region which has excellent markets at 
Burlington. Des Moines county has been the home of many 
noble pioneers and their memories are preserved fresh and 
green in the minds of many of the settlers of the present day. 

In the heart of the grand old forest, 

A thousand miles to the west, 
Where the streams gushed out from the hillside, 

They halted at last for rest. 
And the silence of ages listened 

To the ax stroke loud and clear, 
Divining a kingly presence 

In the tread of the pioneer. 

HENRY COUNTY. 

This county lies between Jefferson and Des Moines, north 
of Van Buren and Lee and is in the second tier from the south 
line and the second from the INIississippi river. Mt. Pleasant is 
the county seat of Henry, situated on the main line of the 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, which traverses the 
county entirely from east to west. The Hospital for the Insane 
is located here, with mammoth, solid, stone buildings and cul- 
tivates about 600 acres of ground — property of the institution. 
Mt. Pleasant is a fine trading point for a large and wealthy 
country tributary. The Keokuk & Northwestern railroad 
enters her limits, coming from Ft. Madison in Lee county. 
Mt. Pleasant is a city of schools and colleges and large numbers 
of students from all parts of the country are seen here during 
the school year. Henry count}' is noted for the great advan- 
tages which she possesses in the chief wealth of a nation — agri- 
culture. Her elegant farms are teemino^ with all the natural 



IOWA LEAVES. 323 

resources which go toward making her one of the very best 
countries in the west. Corn, oats, wheat, rye, barley, flax, 
millet, broom corn and sorghum are the principal products 
raised here, large crops of which are grown every year. Ilcnry 
county is also noted as being one of the finest stock countries in 
the west; large numbers of fine cattle, hogs and horses are 
shipped from her section yearly, footing up large sums. Large 
quantities of native timber are seen by the traveler passing 
through her section along the banks of the classic Skunk river, 
whose rich valleys are covered with a luxuriant growth of blue 
grass, affording excellent pasturage for stock at all seasons of 
the year. Salem is a beautifully situated town, on the Ft. 
Madison & Burlington Narrow Gauge railroad; it is a pretty 
village, settled mostly with Quakers, who are intelligent and 
educated people and take great pride in their churches, which 
are neat and comfortable places of worship. The country sur- 
rounding Salem is high and undulating and some of the finest 
farms seen in the state are found here. Henry count}' is a 
beautiful and fertile country and if she had made a display in 
the coal palace it would have been an excellent one, for she is 
rich in all the golden grains, fruits and vegetables, manufactories, 
abundance of cheap fuel and a constant supply of water. 

LOUISA AND WASHINGTON COUNTIES. 

These two excellent counties have missed a great bonanza 
by not appearing in the great coal palace carnival of 1890, as 
they finish out the coal palace regions of southeastern Iowa, join- 
ing lands between the great Mississippi river and Keokuk 
county, in the third tier from the south line. In general with 
their sister counties, their* valleys and prairies are overflowing 
in a high state of cultivation, which fully attests their worth as 



324 IOWA LEAVES. 

agricultural counties. Southeastern Iowa comprises thirteen of 
the richest counties in the whole western country, abounding 
in coal and timber. The fertile valleys of the great Mississippi, 
Des Moines and Skunk rivers are thronged with thriving cities 
and villages, while the farm regions are teeming with the rich 
products which this latitude affords. The supply of timber is 
sufficient for ages to come, while the coal supply is inexhaust- 
ible and the}' are fast becoming large exporters of this valuable 
product. This section of country was the first to grow blue 
grass in Iowa, to the proof of which thousands of acres of blue 
grass pasture lands will attest, as well as ever}' citizen of this 
county. The fertile soil of these regions produces from forty to 
sixty bushels of corn to the acre and the same of oats. The 
wheat crops are principally winter wheat, averaging some 
twenty bushels to the acre. Rye averages the same or more. 
There is more timothy seed exported every year from these 
regions than from any other in the state and clover is abun- 
dant. As a stock-growing country southeastern Iowa can 
hardly be surpassed in the great west. The rich pastures of the 
blue grass and clover lands bring the cost of preparing stock for 
market to the minimum and the beef cattle raised in this sec. 
tion command the best prices in eastern markets. Being in the 
extreme southern and eastern portions of the state, they have a 
mild and equable climate, and, as the trend of civilization is 
westward, we would call upon those citizens in our older 
states who may be desirous of seeking homes in the west, to 
inspect the great state of Iowa with an area of 55,045 square 
miles, almost all of which is available for cultivation. A salu- 
brious climate and a fertile soil, one of the greatest agricultural 
states in the Union, with more arable and less waste land than 
any other territory of the same area. She is out of debt, with 



IOWA LEAVES. 825 

a low tax rate — only two mills on the dollar. She possesses a 
magnificent capitol building costing $3,600,000, with some six- 
teen state institutions, all well provided for. She has less 
pauperism and crime than any territory of like population in the 
United States. She stands at the head of all states in the 
Union as regards the per cent, of illiterates, having but 1.005 
per cent, in the census of 1890. 

Time many years has laid upon the shelf 
Since our great Uncle Sam possessed himself 
Of these domains, by nature so endowed 
With everything required to raise a proud 
Inheritance, for his restless, roving sons. 

Will the reader kindly consent to finish with us the very 
pleasant journey of the great coal palace exhibits.^ They will 
be found very interesting and in"structive and 3-ou will be highl}' 
delighted with the continued journey. We take great pleasure 
now in showing you through T. M. Sinclair's display, pork- 
packers and shippers, located at Cedar Rapids, Iowa. We 
look upon ]Mr. Hog, in all his glorious attire, in this elegant 
booth, in bundles and in glass jars, in tin pails and in glass 
cases, in kegs and in bottles. Large hams, small hams, min- 
iature hams and roll after roll of elegant breakfast bacon, put 
up for foreign markets. The English, the Scotch, the German, 
the Irish, the French, the Polish, the Swede — in fact, all of the 
nations of Europe eat Mr. I log, cured and packed bv T. M. 
Sinclair & Co. of Cedar Rapids, Iowa. 

The salt pork in barrels with glass heads is the most 
excellent we have ever seen — and we are good judges — just 
such pork as Boston folks like with baked beans. The valu- 
able display of cured meats occupies large space in the extreme 
southeast corner and crowds linger around it dav bv dnv, cairer 



326 IOWA LEAVES. 

to craze on the many handsome features which it contains. 
The capacity of this great pork-packing industry, which Iowa 
is proud to name within her borders, is 6,000 hogs a day, 
and employs 800 men. The owners haye been in the pork- 
packing business, first in Belfast, Ireland, then in New York 
city and Cedar Rapids. They completed last summer a cold 
air plant at a cost of $155,000, the finest by far in the 
west. They make a specialty of choice kettle lard, with sam- 
ples of the same on exhibition, and their " Fidelity " brands of 
cured meats are the finest placed upon the market, elegant 
samples of which are also shown in this booth, and sell readily 
in New York and Liyerpool. A large pyramid of tin pails 
tilled with choice kettle lard attracts the eye at once when you 
enter this booth, while near it are large glass cases filled with 
the most tempting hams that it has eyer been our good fortune 
to look upon, and our mind wanders back to the good old ham 
and fresh colors which no one but our sainted mothers knew 
how to make palatable. One can hardly belieye that the 
breakfast bacon seen here in glass cases is a part of the hog; 
so perfect has been the curing of the same that the rolls show 
as pretty and eyen a brown as if browned in the oyen. This 
handsome display by T. jNI. Sinclair & Co. is in charge of G. 
P. Smith, foreman of the Sinclair & Co. retail markets in Cedar 
Rapids, whom we find to be a most pleasant and agreeable 
gentleman, and many thanks are due him for information lead- 
ing to a description of this beautifully arranged exhibit in the 
coal palace of 1890. He has made many friends during his 
sojourn in the palace among the people of southern Iowa and 
is seemingly in great demand by thousands of people passing 
through the palace at all times during the great industrial ex- 
position. Why ? Because he gaye away 6,000 pails of choice 



IOWA LEAVES. 327 

lard and 5,000 miniature hams as souvenirs during the exposi- 
tion. A few days before the presidential party arrived he sent 
to the firm in Cedar Rapids and had a half dozen miniature 
hams made of silk plush, bearing their trademark, which he 
presented the presidential party as they passed through the T. 
M. Sinclair display in the coal palace exposition, and were 
greatly admired by them. This great pork-packing establish- 
ment is certainly one of Iowa's greatest industries and T, M. 
Sinclair & Co. will meet with a cordial welcome in the palace 
of 1 89 1. 

The R. T. Davis iSIill Company of St. Joseph, Mo., has an 
elegant display of their numerous brands of flour adjoining 
the Sinclair display on the southeast, which we, having used 
the Blue D. brand, pronounce excellent. 

We pass on to the next display, that of John Morrell & 
Co. of Ottumwa, pork-packers and shippers, who control a 
large industry in this line in East Ottumwa and one of the 
largest in the west. They make an excellent display of their 
different brands of cured meats and choice kettle and refined 
lard. Their booth is very artistic in effect, with a pretty 
fountain playing in the center, while barrels of salt pork and 
kegs of pickled pig's-feet are seen near the fountain. Glass 
cases containing ham and breakfast bacon arranged with pretty 
effect are principal attractions. Hanging on three sides of 
the exhibit are hams, shoulders and bacon, bearing the John 
Morrell brand; they are excellent, for we have used them. 
Hundreds of pails of choice lard are seen throughout the booth; 
also samples of refined lard in barrels. Hundreds visit this 
display every day and all pronounce it one of the finest in the 
palace. Their brands of cured meats sell readily on the 
markets in our own country, as well as in all foreign countries, 



328 IOWA LEAVES. 

as they are extensive shippers and have one of the leading in. 
dustries in the coal palace city. 

NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD EXHIBIT. 

Now, reader, let us wander awa}^ to the magnificent gallery 
floor of the great black diamond structure and gaze upon the 
wonderful scenes of an elaborately decorated heaven, whose 
sky is radiant with all the exquisite colorings seen in the 
rainbow directly after a summer shower. Here our eyes rest 
on the beautiful exhibit made by the Northern Pacific railroad, 
which has won fame throughout the state of Iowa in the year 
of 1890 by the magnificent displays made first at the blue 
grass palace at Creston, Iowa, at the state fair at Des Moines, 
the capital city, and from thence to the great coal palace in the 
city of Ottumwa. W.e are inclined to believe after seeing all 
three that the display in the coal palace far surpasses those 
at Creston and Des INIoines. As we gaze on the magnificent 
beauty of this booth, located in the extreme northeast portion 
of the building, we are at once struck with the beauty and 
exquisite effect of the ceiling decorations, manipulated b}' Mr. 
Oscar Vanderbilt, district passenger and land agent for the 
company at Des Moines, ably assisted by his wife, which sur- 
pass all other decorations on the gallery floor, and elicit hearty 
expressions of admiration and delight by a multitude v/ho have 
looked upon them since the opening of the great industrial 
exposition. In this booth we see coal, iron, gold, copper and 
silver, which come from the richest mines in the west — Mon- 
tana, Idaho, Dakota and Washington — a valuable and beautiful 
exhibit. Elegant samples of wool are shown, even finer than 
those seen by the author a few years ago at the state fair at 
Lexington, Ky., in the famous blue grass regions, from the 



lO^VA LEAVES. 329 

Cotswold and Angora sheep. When we look upon the 
numerous and excellent varieties of wheat, both in the stalk 
and in glass jars, we are fully persuaded that no other country 
under the shining sun is as rich in the producing of golden 
grains as these, which lie along the line of the Northern 
Pacific railroad, in the extreme northern part of the United 
States of America. They certainly excel in variety and quality 
any we have ever seen from any other region of the globe. 
First are samples of the Black African, of luxuriant growth, 
the Chili Club, Long Chaff, Red Chaff, the Landreth and 
Bairded Scotch Fife and elegant samples of No, i Hard wheat, 
so extensively grown in ^Minnesota. The display of oats, barley 
and millet is exceedingly tine and goes to show that the great 
northwest is fully up to the eastern, southern and middle states 
in the growing of large crops of grain. A great variety of 
garden seeds is shown here in sacks, from Washington and 
Oregon; peas, beans, sweet corn, squashes, cabbages, parsnips, 
melons, pumpkins — every kind of garden vegetable is grown 
successfully in this country and a fine line of fresh vegetables 
is shown, consisting of large and well-matured heads of cab- 
bage, beets, parsnips, melons, etc., and we are led to believe 
that this country is very prolific in "garden sass.'" The luscious 
and tempting fruits from Washington and Oregon exhibited 
here are exceedingly tine, having been put up in large, clear 
glass jars and form one of the most beautiful exhibits in the 
palace and tempt the appetites of thousands, while the pyramid, 
formed of sacks of Hour, from the great Pillsbury mills in 
Minneapolis, INIinn., is a drawing feature. Reader, have you 
ever seen flour put up in sacks, made of elegant satin, in colors 
of old srold and ro^■al blue? We never did until we looked 
on these in the Northern Pacific exhibit. They are principal 



330 IOWA LEAVES. 

objects of interest, we assure you, and the compliments passed 
on ^'Pillsbury's Best" would make a volume, especially by those 
who have used the flour from these, the greatest mills in the 
world, located at Minneapolis, on the banks of the greatest 
river on the continent, near the beautiful falls of St. Anthony, 
the output of which is thousands of barrels a day. This 
exhibit is greatly admired by the ladies, who remark: "What 
elegant cushions and pillows those lovely sacks would make!" 
"Wish I had one!" and "Aren't they lovely.^" We would 
advise Pillsbury Bros, to have a few thousand miniature ones 
made and distributed as souvenirs next year at the palace. It 
would prove a great advertisement for them. The menageries 
of wild animals on exhibition are the wonder and admiration 
of all, especially the elk, with the finest pair of antlers in the 
United States, which makes the eye of the hunter turn green 
with envy. The huge buffalo head is a great curiosity, though 
thousands of these animals, at one time, roamed free over our 
prairies before a great tide of people came flowing in from the 
regions of the morning. The head of a beautiful, innocent- 
appearing antelope is seen here, while those of a moose, deer, 
both black and white, a Rocky mountain sheep and an elk form 
a beautiful and interesting exhibit. One almost imagines one- 
self in the zoological gardens of St. Louis or Cincinnati, sur- 
rounded by wild beasts from the forests and mountains of 
Idaho and Montana. 

Alto<yether the Northern Pacific railroad exhibit in the 
coal palace of 1890 is one of the most interesting and novel in 
the entire building and is well presided over by the district pas- 
senger and land agent of Des Moines, Iowa, whose courteous 
and liberal treatment of the public has won not only friends for 
himself, but also for the great railroad he represents. Reader, 



IOWA LEAVES. ^^1 

we will start from St. Paul, Minn., the main eastern terminus 
of the Northern Pacitic railroad and make a flying trip over 
this route to Tacoma, on Puget Sound, and note the many 
beautiful cities and villages, lakes and rivers, mountains and 
valleys, the agricultural regions, the grazing facilities, coal and 
iron, precious metals, lumbering and fishing and last, but not 
least, its great scenic wonderland and the most picturesque, 
interesting and prosperous belt of country running between the 
Mississippi valley and the Pacitic coast. This territory has 
more varied and striking scenery, more cultivated country, 
more towns and cities and better opportunities for settlement 
and business than that tributary to any other transcontinental 
line. For this reason the Northern Pacitic is pre-eminently the 
favorite route to and from the Pacific coast points for pleasure 
tourists, for business men and for homeseekers. The eastern 
termini are St. Paul and Minneapolis, Minn., and Duluth, Supe- 
rior and Ashland on the southeast shores of Lake Superior. 
St. Paul and Minneapolis are called the ''Twin Cities'' of the 
north, being so closely united and are exceedingly interesting 
places to visit by reason of their rapid and solid growth. Up 
stream and down both banks of the great :Mississippi river are 
lined with mills, mills, mills— saw and lumber mills above the 
great bridges; flour and woolen mills, but mainly flour, below. 
Six, eight stories they tower aloft, the smokestacks belching 
clouds by day; the countless windows flashing with electric 
lio-hts by night; the massive stone abutments and arches of the 
railway bridges echoing to the clang of machinery and the roar 
of tumbling waters. Ay, here are the wild rapids famed by 
the old French missionaries— "the rushing of great rivers." 
''Where are now the Ojibways and Dacotahs? Where the 
forest and the prairie? In this, the once favored haunts of the 



332 IOWA LEAVES. 

red man, not a vestige of the painted Na-do-wee Sioux remains. 
The forests have been felled and floated down the winding 
stream; the broad prairies are criss-crossed far and near by 
lines of metal, whereon the clanging cable car, puffing motor 
or whirring electric trains dart to the suburbs of two great 
cities, whose centers lie perhaps ten miles apart, whose out- 
skirts melt one into the other on the wooded plateau halfway 
between." Stately business structures, handsome residences, 
noble public edifices, extensive industrial establishments and 
vast commercial movements are all found in these cities. 
*' Staid St. Paul has its winter carnival, wherein the worthy city 
fathers give themselves up to frolic and fun with an abandon 
that would do credit to that other crescent city at the tropical 
end of the river. The great ice palace is built and gleams 
with electric light and colored flres by night. Every man, 
woman and child in all St. Paul seems to take part; there are 
snowshoe clubs and tobos^o^an clubs bv the score; there is the 
maddest variety of uniforms ; there are wild gangs of hilarious 
brokers, who seize and blanket-toss every catchable masculine; 
drummers' clubs parade in mid-January in dusters and palm- 
leaf fans; there are equipages that in cost and beauty would 
shine in Central Park; there is a winter king of tiie carnival 
who defends his stronghold against all comers in a grand final 
storming of the ice palace, in which the whole population seem 
to participate and in which fireworks by the ton and enthusi- 
asm by the acre are lavished in magnificent display; the lead- 
ing thoroughfares become long arcades of brilliant light, arched 
over with countless globes of fire; the massive bluffs that hem 
the winding valley are muffled in their mantle of snow; the 
river itself goes swirling southward under armor-plating of 
solid ice; the lofty iron bridges, spanning the stream from shore 



IOWA LEAVES. 333 

to shore, some descending in easy grade into the lower town, 
some, Hke gossamer web, leaping the chasm from bluff to bluff, 
are twinkling with moving lights; the network of the street? 
of the lower city on both banks is traced by hundreds ol 
sparkling lamps; the lofty turrets of the capitol, the city hall, 
the grand facades of the P/o/ieer Press and New York Life 
buildings, the scores of beautiful homesteads far up on the 
heights of Summit avenue and St. Anthony''s hill are brilliant 
with illumination; the electric globes blaze high aloft; above 
all sparkle the stars in skies as clear as the ether of heaven; 
below, in restless, joyous motion, swarm the populace; and all 
the time the ice king's biting breath plays on glowing cheek 
and wrinkled brow, keen, yet utterly forgotten." 

Ashland on the southeast shore of Lake Superior has the 
greatest iron ore docks in the world and more wheat is shipped 
from Duluth and Superior than from Chicago. The huge ele- 
vators and coal docks at these neighboring cities are objects of 
interest to the traveler. The western terminal city of the 
Northern Pacific system is Tacoma, on Puget sound, Wash., 
a place of marvelously rapid growth with an immense commer- 
cial mart in wheat, coal and lumber, and with shipping rela- 
tions with all Pacific coast ports and with the ports of China 
and Japan. The most imposing snow-clad peak in Amer- 
ica, Mount Tacoma, is in plain sight from the streets of the 
city. From Tacoma a Northern Pacific line runs southward to 
Portland, the rich and handsome commercial capital of the Co- 
lumbia and Willamette valley's. Another branch runs north- 
ward to Seattle, the prosperous commercial center of the 
middle sound country. 

The lake park region of ]Minnesota, which we pass 
through on the journey over this route, is a place for artists 



334 IOWA LEAVES. 

to sketch and dream away the long sultr}- days of the sum- 
mer time, or whei'e poets might love to dwell. It is also an 
attractive resort for the sportsman, whether his weapon be rod 
or gun. The great number of cities and picturesque villages 
along the line are as suggestive of contentment and cultivation 
as those of our eastern states. St. Cloud, seventy-five miles 
above St. Paul; on the banks of the Mississippi river, thirty-five 
years ago was a primeval forest ; to-day it has railroads, col- 
leges, elegant public schools and line churches, lovely streets, 
pleasant homes and houses for 8,000 people. The east and 
west bluff of the river where St. Cloud stands is high and 
steep, while the broad and fertile prairies stretching back of its 
level are very fertile, and from various points on this bluff the 
river view is beautiful, especially the one looking north to South 
Rapids, two miles above. The writer lived two years in this 
lovely city, not man}' years since, and thoroughly enjoyed the 
beautiful scenery surrounding it. It was in St. Cloud that the 
wonderful Mrs. Swissholm published the most northwestern 
newspaper in the early da3's of Minnesota. The next city 
of interest is Brainard, "City of Pines", whose large popu- 
lation is due to the Northern Pacific shops being located 
there and lies in the midst of a hundred lakes, "cosy nooks 
of sunshine that one may own within the compass of a farm," 
"pocket editions of poetry in velvet and gold," lakes that from 
under their wooded fringes gleam with an under soul and 
flash back their introverted glances of the stars from depths 
as pure as the heights of the down-gazing heavens — such lakes 
as you can take into 3our confidence and talk to in quiet 
hours as a lover talks to the image in a golden locket ; bluer 
than the stainless heavens whose fierce sunlight falls upon their 
gentle waters. 



IOWA LEAVES. 335 

Then we come to the Red River of the North, where the 
towns of Moorhead and Fargo are situated upon its banks. 
Surrounding these cities are the most wonderful wheat countries 
in the world, rich and luxuriant miles and miles of waving 
wheat may be seen, where twenty-four self-binding reapers ride 
side by side in harvest tirhe, gathering in the golden grain. The 
fields are as level as a floor, while the sky above is the most 
beautiful blue, the wheat the most mellow of tints. Next are 
Valley City, planted in the midst of hills; Bismarck, the capital 
of North Dakota, situated in the valley of the Missouri, sur- 
rounded by fair agricultural lands; Helena, the capital of Mon- 
tana, with its gold and silver mines and reduction works; Butte, 
where more mineral wealth is annually produced than at any 
other spot in the world. On we go and soon we see Spokane 
Falls, with its beautiful cataract, forming the greatest water 
power on the Pacific coast. So we might keep on naming beau- 
tiful cities along this line, but will conclude with Tacoma on 
Puget sound, "City of Destiny," its terminus, which has many 
advantages over any other city on the western coast, being the 
largest wheat shipping port in the west, and also lies in a 
country rich in agricultural and mineral products. 

The Northern Pacific runs through two of the greatest 
wheat-srowingr rejjions in the world. The flrst is the hard wheat 
belt in northern Minnesota and North Dakota, extending from 
about the center of Minnesota westward to the western bound- 
ary of North Dakota. This belt is 500 miles long and 300 
miles wide and includes the famous valley of the Red River of 
the North, which ranks for fertility with the valleys of the 
Volga and the Danube in Europe. Here is produced the best 
wheat in the world, known as ''No. i Hard," a variety that can 
be grown in no other par^" of the United States, This wheat 



336 IOWA LEAVES. 

contains a larger percentage of gluten than any other and 
makes more flour to the bushel and better flour. The second 
great wheat-growing region tributary to the Northern Pacific 
is in Washington, where there is a stretch of rolling prairie 
250 miles long by sixty miles wide, which produces regularly 
from thirty to fifty bushels to the acre of a soft white wheat 
and which has never failed in a crop. Most of this wheat goes 
to Liverpool by way of Tacoma. In Montana, wheat yields 
thirty to sixty bushels to the acre. Oats are extensively grown 
in 'Minnesota, North Dakota and Washington, yielding from 
twenty to fifty bushels to the acre. The Washington barley 
ranks, for malting purposes, with that raised in California. 
Another crop is potatoes, which are shipped from North 
Dakota as far east as Chicago and are of a quality unequaled in 
the east. Millet, rye, onions, peas, beets, cabbages and all other 
garden vegetables grow prolifically here. In several of the rich 
alluvial valleys of Washington hop growing is the chief industry, 
the average yield being from 1,200 to 2,000 pounds to the acre, 
against an average of 600 pounds in the hop districts of Wis- 
consin and New York. All the fruits of the temperate zone 
grow in Washington and also in some of the warm valleys of 
western Montana. In North Dakota small fruits and berries 
and hardy varieties of apples are grown. Dairying is becom- 
ing an important industry in Minnesota and North Dakota 
and numerous creameries are in successful operation. 

All of Montana except the agricultural valleys and the 
wooded mountain ranges, a large part of western North Dakota 
and much of the Columbia basin in Washington and Oregon is 
essentially a grazing country and is occupied by large herds of 
cattle and flocks of sheep. The principal grass is the bunch 
grass, which cures in the dry air of summer and furnishes food 



IOWA LEAVES. 337 

all winter. This grass is the most nutritious known, having 
when dr}' the properties of both hay and grain. Cattle fatten 
on it more rapidly than on the blue grass of Kentucky or the 
buffalo grass of Nebraska or Colorado. Range cattle are not 
sheltered or looked after in winter. They run over the open 
country and pick up their living on the dried standing grass. 
Sheep are herded and kept in corrals during storms, but are 
out on the open ranges most of the winter. Nearly 100,000 
head of range cattle are shipped to eastern markets every fall 
by the Northern Pacitic. Sheep are shipped in large numbers 
from Montana and Washington to St. Paul and Chicago. The 
raising of horses is also a growing and profitable industry. 
No winter care is given them and when rounded-up in the 
spring they are found to be as fat as if they had been stabled 
and well fed all winter. Eligible unoccupied locations may still 
be found for engaging in any branch of the stock business. It 
is a safe, profitable and independent way of getting a living 
from the land. 

Montana now leads all the states and territories in the pro- 
duction of gold, silver and copper, her annual output exceeding 
$30,000,000. The principal mining camps are on the slopes of 
the main divide of the Rocky mountains, near Helena and 
Butte, and on the flanks of the Belt mountains and Bitter Root 
range. The recent construction of branch railroads penetrating 
the mining districts has given a new impetus to this important 
industry and new mines are constantly being opened up. Mon- 
tana has at Marysville the greatest gold mine in the world 
and at Butte the great copper mine and at the Granite mount- 
ains the greatest silver mine. In northern Idaho, Coeur 
d'Alene mining districts, reached by a Northern Pacitic branch, 
has come rapidly to the front as a great gold and silver region 



338 IOWA LEAVES. 

and is only in the infancy of its development. In Washington, 
north of Spokane Falls, the Colville valley contains a number 
of rich silver mines and the Okanagon countr}', reached from 
either Wilber or Ellensburg, is rapidly developing as a silver 
and gold camp. 

Nearly all the western North Dakota is underlaid with 
seams of lignite coal, which makes a valuable fuel for domestic 
use and for stationary steam engines. In Montana there are 
enormous deposits of bituminous coal on Rocky Fork, south of 
Billings, reached by a branch road from Laurel, on the Northern 
Pacific. Coal is extensively mined at Roslyn, Carbondale and 
other points; near the Cascade division of the Northern Pacific 
are the most productive mines on the Pacific coast, furnishing 
the railroad and the town with fuel and shipping large quan- 
tities to San Francisco, one mine producing coking coal 
exclusively and another gas coal. Iron ore is found at 
numerous points in Washington and will soon become the basis 
of an important industry. Lead abounds in Montana, Idaho 
and Washington; granite, limestone and sandstone for building 
purposes are quarried in many parts of Montana and marble 
has been discovered in Washington. 

The pineries of northern INIinnesota supply a large part of 
the lumber used in that state and in North Dakota, Iowa, 
Nebraska and Kansas. The lumber resources of Washington 
are practically inexhaustible. The immense forest, which 
envelops Puget sound and covers the Cascade and Olympic 
mountains, is the finest body of timber in the world and is 
estimated to contain 160,000,000,000 feet; the principal growths 
are fir, spruce, pine, cedar, larch and hemlock. Lumber is 
shipped from Puget sound and from the Columbia river to 
California, Mexico, South America, China, Japan, Australia 



IOWA LEAVES. 339 

and New Zealand and ship spars are sent to the navy yards of 
Europe. 

The white fishing on Lake Superior is an important in- 
dustry and the salmon fishing, at the mouth of the Columbia 
river in Oregon and Washington, is a business of such great 
dimensions that it supplies the civilized world with canned 
salmon. For varied, grand, romantic and peculiar scenery no 
journey of equal length compares with one over the Northern 
Pacific; at the eastern end of this transcontinental highway is 
Lake Superior, the greatest lake in the world; at the western 
end is the Pacific, the greatest ocean in the world; Puget 
sound, the most picturesque inland sea in the world, and the 
Columbia river the finest scenic river on the continent. No 
mountains on the Alps surpass in grandeur the gigantic solitary 
snow peaks of the Cascade range. In northern Minnesota are 
hundreds of small lakes as lovely as those of Scotland and 
Ireland. The Bad Lands of Dakota is a singular region where 
subterranean fires are still burning and where forests have been 
petrified and strata of blue clay converted into red scoriae. 
The Yellowstone National Park, reached by rail only by way of 
the Northern Pacific, is the wonderland of the world, attracting 
tourists from every part of the civilized globe to gaze upon its 
surprising geysers, its boiling mud pools, its cliffs of shining 
black obsidian, its profound canon, where the rocks have been 
painted by nature with rainbow colors and its inspiring Rock}' 
mountain scenery. From Tacoma, the western terminus of the 
Northern Pacific, steamers make the round trip to Alaska in 
about two weeks — a distance of over 2,000 miles. This is 
beyond question the most superb marine excursion in the world, 
showing to the tourist the loftiest nu)untain peaks of the con- 
tinent, glaciers, icebergs and beautiful locked ba3s, straits and 



3iO IOWA LEAVES. 

estuaricL:. The route is entirely between islands and the main. 
land, so that, although the whole voyage is on salt water, there 
is no suffering from seasickness. 

The advent of the Northern Pacitic railroad six years ago 
as a competitor for through transcontinental business marked a 
new era in railway passenger service between the east and the 
Pacific coast. The most notable feature in connection with the 
train service inaugurated by this new line was the introduction 
of elegant dining cars, which were built at the Pullman car 
works, being marvels of luxuries and of the most elegant 
design and finish. In these cai"s the passenger sits down to a 
bountiful "spread," comprising all the delicacies of the season, 
on both Atlantic and Pacific coasts, as well as the fish and 
game obtained from the country through which the road passes. 

Not content with the great improvements made in the 
past, the Northern Pacific railroad on May i, 1889, put in 
service between St. Paul and Tacoma and Portland complete 
vestibuled passenger trains. These trains are equipped with 
the latest-improved automatic Westinghouse brakes, the 
Westinghouse air signal, Miller platform, patent steel-tired 
wheels and, in fact, every appliance and improvement in the 
railway service that will contribute to the safety, convenience 
and comfort of the traveler. 

While making every effort to please the first-class and 
tourist travel, the Northern Pacific railroad has not been 
unmindful of the comforts of the intending settler destined to 
Montana, Idaho, Oregon or Washington and through express 
trains carry Pullman tourist sleepers and free colonist sleepers 
equipped with all the latest improvements. 

The great Northern Pacific railroad is certainly one of the 
best and finest-equipped roads on the continent and has made 



/OTr.4 LEAVES. 341 

an elegant display in the palace of 1S90 and has made many 
friends among the people of the greatest state in the Union, and 
we can only add, "Come, 3'e gifted of the land, and gaze upon 
the beautiful and elaborate display which she will undoubtedly 
make in the great palace of 189 1/' 

The next booth is occupied by the Pi Beta Phi society of 
Ottumwa (formerly Ladies of the Iowa Chapter), Iowa Chap- 
ter, Theta, the decorations of which were made by the ladies 
of this society in this city and are very beautiful. All visit- 
ing members are cordially welcomed to this booth and all 
strangers' questions regarding the same pleasantl}" answered, 
except it be those pertaining to the secrets of the order. This 
bower of beauty and elegance is greatly admired by all lovers 
of esthetic decorations. The next exhibit we notice on this 
floor is the Lathrop museum and one of the most interesting in 
the gallery. From morning until night every day throngs of 
visitors crowd around this elegant collection of curiosities of all 
sorts, brought together through the efforts of Dr. Lathrop of 
the city of Ottumwa. All visitors unite in declaring it the very 
best exhibit in the palace. New features are being added 
every day and more space made, but even now it is, without 
doubt, the finest collection in southeastern Iowa. We cannot 
do justice to this exhibit in small space, but will hurriedly 
describe the most interesting features. The first is a large col- 
lection of mastodon bones by Dr. Lathrop, while Mr. Dahlberg 
of Keosauqua has a large case of rare curiosities collected by 
himself. S. A. Flagler of Ottumwa also has some ver}' valua- 
ble minerals. A. M. Rowland and L. S. Chichester make up 
tlic quota of large exhibits; besides, many others have handed 
in curiosities, and all together have succeeded in making it one 
of the finest collections in the state. 



312 IOWA LEAVES. 

The Pueblo Indians are largely represented in one case and 
the toys and rattles constructed of clay would make the to}'- 
makers of to-day open their e3'es in wonder. Birds and beasts 
of every description with pebbles in them constituted the sole 
enjoyment of the Indian pappoose and no doubt had the desired 
effect which the rubber or tin rattle has at the present day. 
In this case are bits of pottery dug up from the mounds in 
different parts of the country and with them were strange and 
hideous idols of clay. The makers of these are supposed to be 
the Aztecs and trul}' they were a wonderful race of people. 
Hundreds of axes and arrow heads, from the long and broad 
war arrow to the small, needle-pointed one used for killing 
game. Some of the ax heads are beautiful, being double- 
edged with a neat hole in the center for the helve. The work 
of these wonderful people in stone can scarcel}'' be believed. 
As we gaze on this exhibit made by Dr. Lathrop we see 
objects that seem to bring us face to face with this great race 
and we look upon the skulls of the Aztecs dug up from the 
mounds in a perfect state of preservation and only kept from 
crumbling by a thick coat of shellac outside and inside. There 
is also a fine collection of meteoric stones on exhibition and one 
is certainly a great curiosity. It consists of two stones welded 
together like old-fashioned bar-shot. Among the numerous 
petrifications are a hornet's nest perfect in form, a beet over 
six inches in diameter and a foot found seventy-three feet 
below the surface of the earth in a coal mine and supposed to 
be that of a deformed Aztec child. A whole forest of petrified 
woods is lying in these cases and snails and worms turned to 
stone can be counted b}' the score. A plaster cast of a big 
calendar found in Mexico is leaninsf asrainst the wall and near it 
is a cast of another stone full of strange characters, found near 



IOWA LEAVES. 343 

Fairfield. Then there is the first invention of the percussion- 
cap pistol, a small double-barreled affair with a knife blade 
projecting in front. Next to this is an old-fashioned flintlock 
pistol, while here in another case is a knife, once the property 
of the notorious Frank James, and two bowie knives carried by 
the Younger brothers. Hickory bows with sharp arrows hang 
on the wall and one of them has a sad story, as it was taken 
from the dead body of a white man in Kansas. Indian 
" quirts '^ or whips are also plentiful. The old Indian chief 
Powhatan is in profile on the wall, composed entirely of corn 
and arrow heads and no doubt favors him very much. The 
red man's love for "fire water" is well known and S. A. 
Flagler has a jug that preaches a wonderful temperance lesson 
to all visitors. It is made of clay and has shiny green snakes 
crawling all over it and even down the spout. It is enough to 
give anyone the delirium tremens to look at it. 

Passing along we see something of still greater interest; 
it is an old silver pipe which the "Father of his country" once 
smoked. Near it is a large iron stirrup, once silver-plated, 
which the flrst President of the United States often had his 
foot in while riding over the state of Virginia, or on the battle- 
fields of the Revolutionary war. These articles have passed 
through but two hands since their noble owner died and are 
known to be genuine facts. Here we see a copy of the Ulster 
Co. (N. Y.) Gazette., containing Washington's obituary. A 
sword made entirely of Chinese money is another interesting 
curiosity and the weapons of the saw and sword-fish are worthy 
of notice. Charles Junkin of Fairfield, Jefferson county, also has 
a most interesting exhibit connected with the one of Dr. Lathrop. 

A number of the best business firms in the city of 
Ottumwa are represented on the gallery floor of this building 



'3U IOWA LEAVES. 

with a most excellent showing; all kinds of goods are displayed 
in all the new and novel designs imaginable, which attract 
thousands to them every day. 

The Des Moines Plating AVorks have an elegant display 
of their goods on exibition, while a very wealthy firm of 
Chicago has several cases of exquisite jewelry, diamonds and 
watches displayed in a most tempting manner. 

The Ottumwa Coicr/er office in the extreme eastern portion 
of the building seems to catch the crowds e\ery day and we 
find upon closer inspection that on an elegant hardwood table 
lies an open register, on whose pages thousands have written 
their names since the opening of the great black diamond 
structure; the names are published in the Courier every day 
and everybody buys the paper of course. 

The Protect Each Other society of Ottumwa nave a beau- 
tiful fairy grotto near the Courier olBce, the representation 
being as complete a. one as the writer has ever seen — a perfect 
home for the fairies indeed. The initials, P. E. O., are made 
every day of fresh cut roses and are beautiful. 

There are numerous other ver\' pretty things on this floor, 
which we cannot possibly describe in this work, but in conclu- 
sion we will gi\e a brief description of a trip over the Coal 
Mine route. Se\eral friends and mvsclf compose the party 
and we step into the mine shaft from tiie gallery floor of the 
palace. We are lowered slowly into the depths of the most 
novel mine either in our own or in a foreign country and after 
a few moments of indescribable agony we reach the bottom, 
where we alight and pass into the coal mine depot to await the 
coming of the mule train, in which we expect to travel through 
the mines; while discussing the CNcntful trip, a large d(K)r opens 
in front of us as if by magic and the most intelligent mule that 



IOWA LEAVES. 345 

\vc have \et met with walks in with three carts in the rear. 
Being closely related to three conductors on the great " Q." 
route, they have always impressed me with this fact in travel- 
ing: "In cases of doubt always take the safe side," and if 
possible secure a seat in the middle of the car; but, woman- 
like, I forget their good advice and climb into the rear end of 
the middle cart, which flies up with me and sends me sprawling 
to the bottom of the coal-black mine.. To say that I am for 
a moment bewildered hardly expresses my utter astonishment, 
while the rest of the party fairly scream WMth laughter and 
ask ''Are you hurt?" I do not mind the joke, but gather 
myself up with the most extreme patience, while the docile' 
mule waits, and make a second attempt to climb aboard that 
cart, which I accomplish, and take a seat in the middle of it. 
The rest of the party being comfortably seated by this time 
the driver of the train shouts "All aboard! " and with a very 
melodious voice branches out on the o^reatest coal-mine sons: 
of the age, "Down in a Coal Mine Underneath the Ground,'' 
which he renders in the form of an anthem, until we reach our 
'destination. This trip over the Coal Mine route is without 
doubt the most novel and interesting one that it has been our 
good fortune to experience; everybody rides free; no tickets, 
no passes, no mileage books, no annuals, no quarterlys, no free 
employes' tickets; therefore, the conductor is relieved of the 
duties imposed upon him by the "Duplex." 

We pass in rapid succession the toiling miners, working 
here with pick and drill, who have not seen the sun nor even 
daylight perhaps for years, and our hearts go out to every coal 
miner in the state of Iowa, for we have realized for the first 
time in our lives the life of a man who earns the daily bread for 
himself and family in a coal mine underneath the ground. One 



346 IOWA LEAVES. 

of our jolly party is acting as brakeman on this trip and the way 
he works the air and hangs the hose up in the dummy proves 
him an expert; but the poor mule! His name is Jordan and 
he has a hard road to travel and a heavy train, but steam keeps 
up pretty well and we pull into Coal Palace station on sched- 
ule time, the whole party expressing themselves as delighted 
with the trip. We are courteously assisted from the train and 
a noble-looking fellow of Swedish birth steps up and escorts us 
up a long, steep stairway leading to the first floor of the palace 
and informs us that he has had the pleasure of assisting over 
40,000 people from this mine since the^ opening of the great 
industrial exposition. This coal mine is one of the most 
romantic features of the palace and our whole party will prob- 
ably take another journey over the same route in 1891. I 
would say to all those who intend visiting the palace this fall, 
don't miss the rare treat of going over the Coal Mine route, 
and beware of accidents. In case of doubt always take the safe 
side. 

We pass now to the elevator; it carries us to the dome 
of the palace, from which a most excellent view of the city of 
Ottumwa is obtained and also of the beautiful country surround- 
ing; and as we look down on the picturesque Des Moines river^ 
as it winds its way peacefully on toward the great Mississippi, 
our mind wanders back to the days when the Indian village of 
Moin-gui-na stood on its banks amid the forests centuries ago, 
and of what the future has brought forth from the regions of the 
morning unto this, the finest section of country on the American 
continent. 

This mao:nificent black diamond structure will be thrown 
open again to the world about October 15 and every man^ 
woman and child in Iowa should see it and all those from 



IOWA LEAVES. 317 

Other states who can possibly make it convenient to do so 
should come and look on the wonderful possibilities of art and 
nature combined in this beautiful structure. Ottumwa, the 
metropolis of southeastern Iowa, is lavish in her hospitality, 
so you will meet with cordial treatment during your sojourn 
in the city and your visit to the palace cannot help being a 
profitable one. 

While Iowa may be proud of the name she bears in 
history, proud of her soil and climate, proud of her scenery, 
lovely brooks, lakes and rivers, proud of her palace, she is 
also proud of having the finest band in the Union — the Iowa 
State Band of Des Moines — the palace band — and I cannot 
lay this book aside and consider it finished without saying 
that the excellent music rendered by this band at the palace in 
Iowa in the year of 1890 was certainly the finest, without any 
exception, ever heard by people in any country on the globe 
and was fully appreciated by thousands and thousands who 
visited the palace, and we hope to have again the pleasure of 
listening to their excellent renditions in the palace of 1891. 

Ottumwa has a combination of conditions and circum- 
stances which can scarcely be ignored by anyone, but more 
especially the merchant and manufacturer, seeking a change of 
location and to each and all of such Ottumwa extends a warm 
invitation to come and investigate her claims; see her busy 
mills, filled with well-paid, contented workmen, the grand busi- 
ness structures stocked with goods from all parts of the world, 
the handsome streets, beautiful schools and churches, the cosy 
homes of the laboring classes; contentment and happiness are 
seen on all sides — a charmed circle, as it were, of happy, thrifty 
people. Ottumwa is entitled to the name of ''LowelF' of the 
west; her factories and mills are many. Five lines of railways 



348 > IOWA LEAVES. 

run through or have their termini here and the sixth is in 
course of construction; the Santa Fe gives to the city as 
advantageous facihties for transportation as has any city in the 
Union. She has one of the finest water powers in the state and 
enjoys the further and still greater advantage of being in the 
very center of one of the greatest fields of bituminous coal 
lying between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and of a quality 
excelled bv none. 



PART FIFTH 



NORTHWESTERN IOWA 



CORN PALACE REGIONS, WITH FULL AND COM- 
PLETE DESCRIPTION OF THE CORN PALACE, 
OR EIGHTH WONDER OF THE WORLD. 



CHAPTER I. 

PIONEER PERIODS OF THE NORTHWEST. 

In January, 1803, President Jefferson in a confidential mes- 
sage to congress in regard to Indian affairs took occasion to 
recommend, among other things, the organization of a party to 
trace the Missouri river to its source and thence proceed to the 
Pacific ocean. The recommendation was favorably considered 
and Capt. Merriwether Lewis was, on his own application, 
appointed to take charge of the expedition. William Clarke 
was subsequently associated with him, so that this celebrated 
expedition is known in our history as that of Lewis and Clarke. 

The incidents of this long, tedious and romantic journey 
are worthy to be related as among the most interesting in the 
annals of American adventures. At that time all that vas 
region bordering on the upper Missouri and its tributaries, as 
well as the regions bordering on the Pacific, was unknown and 
unexplored by white men. By the latter part of 1803 the party 
comprising the expedition was ready to start. 

Besides Captains Lewis and Clarke the party was made 
up of nine young men from Kentucky, twelve soldiers of the 
regular army, two Frenchmen as watermen and interpreters 
and a colored servant belonging to Capt. Clarke — twenty-six 
persons in all. A corporal, six soldiers and nine watermen in 
addition to the above were engaged to accompany the expedi- 
tion as far as the country of the Mandans, as there was some 
apprehension of attacks by the Indians between Wood river 

851 



352 IOWA LEAVES. 

and that tribe. Three boats were provided for the expedition. 
The largest was a keel boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three 
feet of water, carr3'ing one large, square sail and twent3'-two 
oars. The other two were open boats, one of six and the other 
of seven oars. 

The expedition started from the encampment at the mouth 
of Wood river on Monday, May 14, 1804. Capt. Lewis, who 
was at that time in St. Louis, joined the expedition at St. 
Charles, twenty-one miles up the river, which place they reached 
on the 1 6th. Here they remained until the 21st, when they 
proceeded on their voyage, reaching La Charnetts, the last white 
settlement, on the evening of the 25th. This village consisted 
of but seven poor families. On June i they arrived at the 
mouth of the Osage, 133 miles on their journey. The country 
bordering on this river was inhabited by a tribe known as the 
Osage Indians. They had a remarkable tradition among them 
as to the origin of their nation. They believed that its founder 
was a snail passing a quiet existence along the banks of the 
Osage till a flood swept him down to the Missouri and there 
left him exposed on the shore. By the heat of the sun he was 
changed to a man. The change, however, did not cause him to 
forget his native place, awa}' up on the banks of the Osage, 
and he immediately sought his old home. Being overtaken 
with hunger and fatigue the Great Spirit appeared, gave him 
a bow and arrow and taught him to kill deer and prepare their 
flesh for food and their skin for clothing. 

When he arrived at his original place of residence he was 
met by a beav^er, who inquired who he was and by what 
authority he came to disturb his possession. The Osage 
replied that he had once lived on the border of that river and 
that it was his own home. While they were disputing the 



IOWA LEAVES. 353 

daughter of the beaver appeared and entreated her father to 
be reconciled to the young stranger. The father yielded to 
her entreaties and the Osage soon married the beaver's 
daughter. They lived happily on the banks of the Osage and 
from them soon came the villages and nation of the Osages. 
Ever since they entertained a pious reverence for their ancestors^ 
never killing a beaver, for by so doing they would slay a 
brother. It has been observed, however, that after the open- 
ing of the fur trade with the whites the sanctity of their 
maternal relations was very much reduced. ' 

The next tribe mentioned by the explorers was that of the 
Missouris, once a powerful nation but then reduced to about 
thirty families. They finally united with the Osages and 
Ottoes and as a separate nation became extinct. The Saukes, 
Ayauways (lowas) and the Sioux are mentioned as being the 
enemies of the Osages and making frequent excursions against 
them. On June i6 they arrived at the mouth of the Kansas, 
340 miles from the Mississippi, where they remained two days 
for rest and repairs. The party, at this stage of their journey, 
saw numerous buffaloes on the prairies. On July 2 the party 
passed Bear Medicine island, near which were the remains of 
an old fort built by the French, the ruins of the chimneys and 
general outline of the fortification being visible. On July 8 
they reached the mouth of the Nodaway. The river is men- 
tioned as navigable for boats some distance. On July 1 1 they 
landed at the mouth of the Nemaha. Mention is made of 
several artificial mounds on the Nemaha, about two miles up 
the stream at the mouth of a small creek. From the top of 
this mound there was a fine view of the country. On Jul}- 14 
they passed the Nishnabatona river, finding it only 300 yards 
from the Missouri at a distance of twelve miles from its mouth. 



354 IOWA LEAVES. 

Platte river and other streams both in Iowa and Nebraska are 
mentioned and the country described with great accuracy. 
Along in this part of the country were the first elk they had seen. 
On July 2 2 the explorers encamped on the north (Iowa) 
side of the river, ten miles above the mouth of the Platte river, 
to make observations and to hold an interview with the neigh- 
boring tribes. They remained here in camp until the 27th. 
Among the streams mentioned in this vicinity are the Papillon, 
Butterfly creek and Moscheto creek, the last-named being a 
small creek near Council Bluffs. The Indians who occupied 
the country about the mouth of Platte river at this time were 
the Ottoes and Pawnees. The Ottoes were much reduced and 
formerly lived about twenty miles above the Platte, on the 
Nebraska side of the river. They lived at this time under 
the protection of the Pawnees. The latter were also much 
dispersed and broken. One branch of the nation formerly 
lived on the Republican branch of the Kansas river. Another 
band were the Pawnee Loupe, or Wolf Pawnees, who resided 
on the Wolf fork of the Platte; another band originally resided 
on the Kansas and Arkansas, but in their wars with the Osages 
they were often defeated and retired to the Red river. On 
the 27th they continued their journey and about ten leagues 
from their encampment on the south (Nebraska) side of the 
river they saw and examined a curious collection of graves or 
mounds of different heights, shapes and sizes. Some were of 
sand and others of both earth and sand. They were supposed 
to indicate the position of the ancient village of the Ottoes 
before they retired to the protection of the Pawnees. On the 
29th they passed the spot where the Ayauway Indians, a branch 
of the Ottoes, once lived and who had emigrated from that 
place to the Des Moines. Mention is here made of an inter- 



IOWA LEAVES. 355 

view with one of the Missouri Indians who hved with the 
Ottoes and the resemblance of his language to that of the 
Osages, particularly in calling a chief, //ica. 

On July 30 the party encamped on the south side of 
the river. At that place, next to the river, was a plain and 
back of it a wooded ridge, rising about seventy feet above the 
plain. At the edge of this ridge they formed their camp and 
sent an invitation to the Indians to meet them. From the bluffs 
at this point they mention a most beautiful view of t'he river 
and adjoining country. The latitude of the camp was deter- 
mined by observation to be forty-one degrees, eighteen minutes 
and fourteen seconds. The messenger sent to invite the 
Ottoes returned on the evening of August 2 with fourteen 
Ottoe and Missouri Indians, accompanied by a Frenchman 
who resided among them and who acted as interpreter. Lewis 
and Clarke made them presents of pork, flour and meal and the 
Indians returned presents of watermelons. The next morning 
(August 3d) a council was held with the six chiefs who were 
of the party of Indians. They were told of the change in the 
government and promised protection and advised as to their 
future conduct. All the chiefs expressed their joy at this 
change in the government and wished to be recommended to 
the Great Father (the President) that they might obtain trade 
and necessaries of life. They asked the mediation of the 
Great Father between them and the Omahas, with whom they 
were then at war. At the conclusion of the council medals 
and other presents were given to the chiefs and also some 
presents to the other Indians who were with them. The grand 
chief of the Ottoes was not present, but to him was sent a flag, 
a medal and some clothing. The explorers gave to the place 
■where this council was held the name of Council Bluffs. The 



356 IOWA LEAVES. 

reader will remember, however, that it was above the present 
city of Council Bluffs, Iowa, and was on the Nebraska side of 
the river. 

On the afternoon of August 3 they resumed their jour- 
ney and on the 7th arrived at the mouth of a river on the 
north side, called by the Sioux Indians "Eaneah wadepon'^ 
(Stone river) and by the French Petite Riviere des Sioux., or in 
English, Little Sioux river. The explorers were informed by 
their interpreter (M. Durion) that this river rises within about 
nine miles of the Des Moines; that within fifteen leagues of, 
that river it passes through a large lake, nearly sixty miles in 
circumference and divided into two parts by rocks which 
approach each other closely. Its width is various, it contains 
many islands and is known by the na.me Z,ac cf Esprit (Spirit 
lake). The country watered by it is open and undulating and 
may be visited in boats up the river for some distance. The 
explorers speak of a long island, two miles above the mouth of 
the Little Sioux, which they named Pelican island — from the 
large number'of pelicans which were feeding on it, one of which 
they killed. They also killed an elk. On the loth they 
passed the first highland near the river after leaving their 
encampment at Council Bluffs. Not far from this, on a high 
bluff, was the grave of Blackbird, one of the great chiefs of 
the Mahas, who had died of small-pox four years before. The 
grave was marked by a mound, twelve feet in diameter at the 
base and six feet high and was on an elevation about 300 feet 
above the water. In the center of the grave was a pole, eight 
feet high. Near this the Mahas had a village and lost 400 
men of their nation and a like proportion of women and 
children by small-pox at the time Blackbird died. After this 
dreadful scourge they burned their village which had consisted 



IOWA LEAVES. 357 

of 300 cabins. On a hill at the rear of the place where the 
village stood were the graves of the nation. 

On the evening of the iSth the explorers were again 
visited at their camp by a party of Ottoes and Missouris, who 
entertained them with a dance. The profound object of their 
visit was to ask intercession for promoting peace between them 
and the Mahas, but probably the real object was to share a 
portion of the strangers' provisions and liquors. 

The next day, August 20, after passing a couple of islands, 
they landed on the north side of the river, under some bluffs. 
It was here that the party had the misfortune to lose one of 
their men, Sergeant Charles Floyd. He had the day before 
been seized with a bilious colic. Before his death he said to 
Capt. Clarke, "I am going to leave you; I want you to write 
me a letter;" soon after making this request the bave soldier 
passed away. 

He was buried on the top of the bluff with all the honors 
due a brave soldier. The place of his interment was marked 
by a cedar post on which his name and the day of his death 
were inscribed. About a mile farther up on the same side of 
the Missouri they came to a small river to which they gave the 
name of Floyd river, in honor of their deceased companion. 
The place of the burial of Sergeant Floyd was but a short dis- 
tance below where Sioux City now stands. During a great 
freshet in the spring of 1857 the Missouri river washed away 
a portion of the bluff, exposing the remains of the soldier. 
The citizens of Sioux City and vicinity repaired to the place, 
and with appropriate ceremonies re-interred them, some dis- 
tance back from the river on the same bluff. The same cedar 
post planted by his companions o^•er his grave on that summer 
day more than half a century before remained to mark the 



358 IOWA LEAVES. 

place of interment up to 1857, though nearl}' all of this time 
the country had been inhabited only by savages. All that goes 
before — it would make a chapter of a romantic story — relates 
to the time of pure adventure in the northwest rather than to 
its substantial development. It includes the day of explora- 
tion, of the French voyageur, of the trader and the trapper. 

The first account of the visit of white men to Woodbury 
county in northwest Iowa, is that of the famous expediton of 
Lewis and Clarke, mentioned above, in 1804. 

In the summer of 1848, a single pioneer, William Thomp- 
son, settled at Floyd's bluff, his brother and another man join- 
ing him in the fall. Next year he laid out a town there, calling 
it Thompsonville. Thompson's cabin was the sole improve- 
ment, but on the organization of the count}' in 1853, the ville 
was made the county seat, and it was a sort of post for Indian 
traders for some years. Not a vestige of Thompsonsville now 
remains. 

In May, 1849, Theophili Brughier, a French Canadian, 
settled at the mouth of the Big Sioux, two miles above the orig- 
inal city, but now within the city limits, the most beautiful spot 
in the northwest and known as Riverside park. Brughier had 
been in the employ of the American Fur company, but leaving 
them and joining the Yankton Sioux Indians he married the 
daughter of their celebrated chief War Eagle. He acquired 
great influence among the Indians and War Eagle died at his 
home in 1851. The remains of the old chief, with those of his 
daughter, Brughier's wife, and several others of the famil}', now 
repose on the summit of a lofty bluff near the mouth of the Big 
Sioux river, within the present limits of Sioux City. 

The next two settlei's of 1849 were Robert Perry, who 
settled on the creek which bears his name, flowing now through 



IOWA LEAVES. 359 

the heart of the city, and Paul Pacquette, who settled on the Big 
Sioux. In the spring of 1852 Joseph Leonias purchased of 
Brughier the quarter-section on which the business portion of 
Sioux City is now built. 

There was no further improvement until 1854 when Dr. 
John R. Cook, who had a contract under the government to 
survey a part of northwestern Iowa, landed here. Refusing to 
be intimidated by a band of Indians under Smutty Bear, their 
chief, who were encamped here, Dr. Cook, impressed with the 
importance of the site and the beauty of the surroundings, boldly 
located a claim, as did several of his own party, and began 
to lay out Sioux City in December, 1854. Dr. Cook's claim and 
the original town site lay on the west side of Perry Creek, but 
the next spring he purchased of Joseph Leonias his quarter-sec- 
tion and laid out Sioux City, east addition. 

It would require more space than there is at command to 
chronicle the events of the next few years. Indians frcquenth^ 
passed through the town in war paint and uttered whoops, 
sometimes admonishing the settlers to leave, but no violence or 
bloodshed occurred. In the spring of 1855 there were two log 
cabins on the site of Sioux City. In July of this year the first 
stage and mail arrived; Dr. Cook was the first postmaster. 
Before the close of 1855 there were seven log houses, two of 
them hotels. There were two stores, one in a tent and the 
other in a log cabin. A land office was opened for pre-emption, 
but not for sale till May, 1857. The county seat was removed 
here from Floyd's Bluff or Thompsonvillc in 18156. Sioux City 
was incorporated by an act of the legislature, approved January 
16, 1857, and the first city election took place August 31, 18157. 
The first newspaper was edited by Seth W. Swiggett. It was 
called the S/of/x City Eagle and was first issued Jul\' 4, 1857. 



360 IOWA LEAVES. 

The first steamboat freighted for Sioux City arrived in 
June, 1856, bringing provisions and readj'-franied houses. The 
base of suppHes was then, and for years after, St. Louis and 
transportation was by way of the Missouri river. The com- 
manding commercial relation of Sioux City to the great north- 
west, even at that early day, was clearly perceived, since from 
it as a depot freights were distributed by water carriage to the 
trading posts, government stations and scattered settlements of 
the upper Missouri valley. During 1856 the population in- 
creased to 400 and about ninety buildings were erected. 

It must be remembered that this was before the day of 
railroad development west of the Mississippi river. Two or 
three weak lines had been constructed for short distances west 
of that river, but their progress was slow. The Pacific railroads 
were yet far in the future. Chicago, even, was yet in its day 
of small things and the settlement of the upper Mississippi 
valley, from which Chicago later fed its majestic strength, was 
only in its beginning. The upper Missouri valley, opening 
above Sioux City, was still a primeval wilderness, still to be 
disputed over with the countless bands of Indians and herds of 
buffaloes which roamed over it. 

But Sioux City grew steadily with the westward exten- 
sion of settlement. It is needless now to recount the various 
stages of growth by which in 1868, the advent of the first rail- 
road, it reached a population of 1,030. This was the day of 
the steamboat, the stage, the freighters' wagon. While these 
things remained many years after the opening of the first rail- 
road, notably during the four j^ears beginning with 1875, when 
the Black Hills mines were discovered, yet the advent of the 
railroad in 1868 revolutionized the movement of trade through 
Sioux City to the northwest, finally fixing the base of supply at 



IOWA LEAVES. 361 

Chicaofo instead of at St. Louis. The chanire marked a new 
era in the history both of Sioux City and the northwest. It 
involved for them an ampler and more energetic development. 
But the material fact indicated by the history of the old 
era, as well as of the new, is the commercial identity of Sioux 
City with the upper Missouri valley, whether the distribution 
of supplies was effected from St. Louis or from Chicago as the 
base. 

SIOUX CITY, THE PRIDE OF NORTHWEST IOWA. 

On the sight of Dr. Cook's claim in 1854, and the addi- 
tion thereto since made, there is now a city of 50,000 inhabit- 
ants. Such change from a pioneer settlement to a commanding 
trade center is a transition which could occur only in the west. 

It is not the intention here to describe in detail the Sioux 
City of to-day, but rather to reserve space for some exposition 
of the logic of its situation. A few representative facts, how- 
ever, may be briefly summarized. 

The Sioux City of the railroad epoch, beginning in 1868, 
when the Sioux City & Pacific railroad was opened to Mis- 
souri Valley, seventy miles south, making connection there with 
an east and west railroad, shared the rising enthusiasm of the 
northwest and grew steadil}'. 

During the next few years enterprising men projected 
lines of road into the region about Sioux City northwardly, 
with a view to ultimate connection with the Northern Pacific 
northwesterly through southern Dakota and directly west 
through northern Nebraska from the opposite shore of the Mis- 
souri. Nearly all these routes have since been occupied by 
trunk or branch lines radiating from Sioux City, but then 
there was success in building only a few spurs, wlien 



362 



IOWA LEAVES. 



railroad enterprise was smitten with the general industrial 
paralysis which followed the great failure of Jay Cooke '& Co. 
in 1873. But Sioux City grew steadily; it had a population of 
4,290 in 1875 and the federal census of 1880 showed an increase 
to 7,366 inhabitants. The state census of 1885 fixed the popu- 
lation at 19,060 and a census taken eighteen months later, 




HOTEL GARRETSON, SIOUX CITY. 



including terrtiory since added by the extension of the corporate 
limits, showed a population of 26,000. The notable growth of 
Sioux City, it will be seen, has been since 1880 and in fact 
20,000 of the 50.000 of its present population have been drawn 
hither since 1882. 



JOWA LEAVES. 363 

Sioux City to-day is the center of live great trunk lines 
of railway, which have thirteen main and branch lines diverg- 
ing hence through northern Iowa, southern Minnesota, Ne- 
braska, Dakota, Wyoming and Montana. These companies 
have a machine shop here and a railroad bridge across the 
Missouri river, costing $1,250,000, is approaching completion. 
Thirty-six passenger trains arrive and depart daily. 

The largest jobbing center in Iowa and also the largest 
jobbing center in the great northwest, filling its own distinct 
field and competing with Omaha on the one hand and Minne- 
apolis and St. Paul on the other. All the principal lines of 
jobbing are represented. The sales for 1887 amounted to over 
$8,500,000. Two hundred commercial travelers represent the 
city in the tributary territory. While within half a decade 
population has quadrupled, business has increased eightfold. 

The total expenditure for building improvements during 
1887 on a careful and and accurate basis of ascertainment was 
$2,854,856; for 1886, $1,292,528; for 1885, $1,024,471; for 
1884, $980,395; for 1883, $660,949; ^^^ 1882, $637,324. 

There are nine banking houses, with a capital of $2,000,- 
000, which in 1887 sold exchange to the amount of 
$57,000,000, a banking interest exceeding that of any other 
city in Iowa. The postal receipts in 1887 were $46,017, against 
$32,211 in 1886, while the money-order business was $954,- 
345.46, and increase of 30 per cent, over 1886. The telegraph 
business is the largest in the northwest, there being a remark- 
able increase during the past two years, while the business of 
the three express companies represented here has trebled during 
the same period. 

Sioux City is one of the five greatest packing centers in 
the United States. There are three great packing establish- 



364 



IOWA LEAVES. 



ments — those of Bouge, Silberhorn and Fowler. These have a 
capacity of 15,000 hogs and 2,000 beeves per day. In addition, 
it is practically assured that one of the largest dressed beef 
establishments in the world will be built here during the 
present year. 




UNITED BANK BUILDING, SIOUX CITY. 



The stock yards, in the vicinity of which the packing- 
houses are situated, are one of the most important factors in 
Sioux Cit3''s growth. They grew out of the concentration here 
of live stock transactions and, though founded less than three 
years ago, they have accommodations for 6,000 hogs, 10,000 
cattle, 2,000 sheep and 2,000 horses. Over $750,000 was 
expended last year in improving this propert}^ and extensive 



IOWA LEAVES. 365 

improvements are being made all the time. The yards include 
1,490 acres of suburban land and 200 city lots. In addition to 
the packing establishments, which give employment to hun- 
dreds of men, there are the linseed oil mills, the second largest 
in the vi^orld, flour mills, foundries, machine shops, candy and 
cracker factory, oatmeal mill, brick and tile works, plow works, 
vinegar and pickling works, etc. 

The • public improvements are in harmony with Sioux 
City's progressive character and yet so rapid is its growth that 
they are in rear of the public demand. In 1887 nearly $1,000,- 
000 was expended in improvements of a purely public char- 
acter and a much larger sum will be expended this year. 

The city has sixty miles of graded streets, fifteen miles of 
cedar block paving, fourteen miles of street railway and five 
of motor line in operation, five miles of cable car line and 
five miles of new motor line in construction and is located 
between three rivers, affording admirable drainage. This 
healthful situation is made perfect by the modern system of 
sewage. Here are the finest waterworks in the northwest, con- 
sisting of two Holly-Gastel patent pumps of 4,000,000 gallons 
daily capacity, with reservoir of 1,500,000 gallons capacity 
and twenty-one miles of mains. 

Sioux City has a paid, professional lire department, one of 
the finest opera-houses in the west, the largest telephone 
exchange in Iowa, gas and electric light, etc., four daily — one 
morning and three evening — papers, besides a variety of weekly 
and other periodicals, an unrivaled system of public education, 
churches of all denominations, benevolent and charitable organ- 
izations, public librar}^ Young Men's Christian Association 
building, Samaritan Home (hospital), maintained by the 
Women's Christian Association, etc., etc., Sioux City Jobbers 



IOWA LEAVES. 367 

& Manufacturers' Association, maintaining a salaried com- 
missioner of freights, and the Chamber of Commerce Asso- 
ciation. 

Such are only a handful of facts chosen from a multitude 
of others because they are representative facts. From them 
may be inferred some idea of Sioux Cit}'^ as it is. 

Sioux City is situated at the point where the iSIissouri river 
makes the great bend to the west, just as at Kansas City it 
makes the great bend to the north. Precisely at Sioux City 
the drainage systems of northwestern Iowa, northern Nebraska 
and the whole of southern Dakota converge. The Big Sioux 
river from due north, forming the boundary line between Iowa 
and Dakota, joins the Missouri and the angle thus formed in 
eludes the west and south boundaries of the corporate limits 
of Sioux City. From its confluence with the Sioux river the 
Missouri flows over loo miles from almost due west, form- 
ing the boundary line between Dakota and Nebraska. The 
whole of the southeastern quarter of Dakota is drained by the 
James and Vermilion rivers and innumerable smaller streams 
which flow almost due south, parallel to the Sioux, their fertile 
valleys debouching upon the Missouri at short distances above 
Sioux City. The drainage of northern Nebraska is the exact 
counterpart of that of southern Dakota, the Niobrara flowing 
northeast and joining the Missouri, where it ceases to be the 
boundary line between Nebraska and Dakota, while from that 
point to Sioux City scores of minor streams flow northerl}' and 
northeasterly through Nebraska to a confluence with the Mis- 
souri. On the Iowa side the whole northwestern quarter of the 
state, with a portion of INIinnesota, is drained info the Missouri 
at Sioux City, the Sioux river at its mouth forming its western 
boundary, as before stated, the Floyd river passing through the 



368 IOWA LEAVES. 

city limits and the Little Sioux entering the ^Missouri at no 
great distance below. 

Remember now that the trade territory of Sioux City 
in northwestern Iowa alone is 8,000 square miles, draining 
naturally, as in trade, to this point. Remember that southern 
Dakota, which opens northwesterly from Sioux City as 
a gate, includes 60,000 square miles, while due west of 
Sioux City there is in northern Nebraska 26,000 square miles. 
Here is a territory of 94,000 square miles which centers 
naturally at Sioux City. And let it be borne in mind, 
moreover, that this territory, immense as it is, is only part of 
the territory now actually occupied or reached by Sioux City's 
trade. 

To illustrate its importance and immensity, attention need 
only be called to the fact that just west of the Missouri river, 
after it again turns north at a point 100 miles west of Sioux 
Cit}'^, lies the great Sioux Indian reservation, a splendid agricult- 
ural and grazing region, of which 16,000 square miles, an area 
of incomparably richer natural resources than any one of a 
dozen states of the Union, which might be mentioned, has been 
opened by congress to settlement. 

The drainage of this region flows almost due east into the 
Missouri, and along the valleys of these tributary streams two 
great corporations — the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul and the 
Chicago & Northwestern — are hastening to build into the won- 
derful mineral and cattle regions beyond, carrying the fruits of 
the same over their main systems to Sioux City, and, on the 
other hand, from it as the distributing point, supplying them and 
the thousands of settlers who have flocked into that territory. 

But the significant fact is that so vast a country as this 
Sioux reservation opened to development is only a fraction of 



IOWA LEAVES. 369 

Sioux City's trade territory, bound up in a common interest 
with it alike by the artificial systems of communication and the 
outlines and conformation of the country. This is why there is 
a city where Sioux City stands to-day. 

Among immediate causes, what most of all has made 
Sioux City great? The soil of the region surrounding it. 
What is the soil ? Those properties which make it the greatest 
corn section, not only in the United States but in the world. 
Take the territory about Sioux City, including northwestern 
Iowa and the adjacent land in southern Dakota and northern 
Nebraska within a radius of loo miles, extending indefinitely 
upward along the flood plains of the Missouri river and its 
tributaries, and the United States may be challenged for another 
region equaling or approaching this as a corn countr}^ and, for 
the same reasons which make it a corn country, it is surpass- 
ingly fruitful in all the substantial cereals and other agricultural 
products. 

This is the pre-eminent corn country of the continent, be- 
cause it has never had from any cause a failure of corn. 
Drought and excessive moisture do not disastrously affect it, 
as they do the corn-fields of other sections of country. The 
crowning felicity of the Sioux City corn-field, the pre-eminent 
excellence of the northwestern soil, is not merely its extraordi- 
nary fertility, but also its average availability for agricultural 
purposes, year after year. The peculiar character of the soil 
of northwestern corn-fields makes it much more easy and 
far less expensive to cultivate, to plow, to plant, to tend the 
crop. 

Northwestern Iowa is not only a vast corn-field but an 
enormous hog-pen as well, and it is a cattle country because it 
is a corn country. The steer and the hog go together and both 



370 IOWA LEAVES. 

together form the close-fitting halves of a machine for working 
up and condensing the raw material of the corn-field. 

There are twenty counties in northwestern Iowa which are 
within the assured range of Sioux City's trade, and less than 
one-third of the northwestern corn region, which includes as 
well the adjacent portions of southeastern Dakota and north- 
eastern Nebraska, lying on both sides of the Missouri river, 
west of Sioux City. The northern edge of the corn belt is 
only a few tiers of counties north and thence its boundary line 
curves around Sioux City southwesterly in Dakota and Nebraska. 
This is the great body of the distinctively corn country and, 
although the boundary line is not regular, it is located at no 
great distance, relatively speaking, west and northwest from 
Sioux City, except along river valle3^s, which of course extend 
it in narrow strips considerably beyond the general western 
limit. Sioux City thus is in the corner of the northwestern corn 
country, while the rich corn-fields are carried indefinitely east 
and south across the state of Iowa. 

If there were space, it would be interesting to pause here 
and consider in detail the building of railroads in the upper 
Missouri valley and their centralization at Sioux City. The 
extraordinary and absolutely unparalleled development of this 
vast region, with whose growth and destiny the growth of 
Sioux City is indissolubly bound up, has been conditioned upon 
the building of railroads as well as upon the marvelous richness 
of its soil, for by the former the fruits of the latter are made 
available and the rapid tendency to lower rates of transporta- 
tion, especiall}' during the past ten years, has had the effect to 
bring the cheap, rich lands of the northwest practically as near 
the seaboard markets as the high-priced and exhausted lands 
of the east. Thus Sioux City is the point of convergence of , 



IOWA LEAVES. 371 

five great railroad systems, viz., the Illinois Central, the Chi- 
cago & Northwestern, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul, the 
Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis & Omaha, and the Sioux City & 
Northern. The Sioux City & Pacific, the first road to reach 
Sioux City in 1868, is now a part of the Chicago & North- 
western system. 

The men of Sioux City from the very first have been 
instant in all the great enterprises — public and private — which 
in their combined result have now established its commercial 
primacy in the upper Missouri valley according to the natural 
indications of the same. Throughout the entire series of 
achievements tending to this end Sioux City itself has taken 
the initiative and, acting on the faith which it had in itself, has 
established itself in the faith of the world, thereby bringing in 
the co-operation of the capital and enterprise of the east and 
enlisting the aid of the great railroad corporations and other 
concerns which have done so much for Sioux City. There is 
not, and never has been, division of council, faction or jealousy 
in Sioux City, but in the presence of opportunity for public 
enterprise all citizens of all classes have fused in enthusiastic 
harmony, whether the proposition was a tax in aid of a railroad, 
to build a bridge, to insure machine shops or for any other im- 
portant work. It is this public-spirited harmony, under the 
direction of a few far-seeing and intrepid citizens — men who 
have themselves voluntarily assumed great burdens and risks in 
the common cause, — that has acceleraied the destiny which 
Sioux City's natural relations to the upper Missouri valley 
marked out for it. By such independent endeavor nearly 
every trunk line of railroad, and most of the branch lines, now 
converging here were secured; thus the opera-house; thus the 
great hotel; thus the first of the machine shops; thus man}' of 



372 IOWA LEAVES. 

the important commercial and manufacturing interests. But 
the most notable fruits of this policy have been within the 
period of the last three years, during which were secured these 
capital achievements — the railroad bridge across the Missouri, 
the great packing establishments, three new branch lines of 
railroad and one trunk line and the most wonderful corn palace 
on the face of the globe. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE WONDER OF THE NEW WORLD. 

Where the Indian used to roam 
Now the white man finds a home, 
And the tepee is no more 
On the lower " iNIuddy's" shore. 
Where the Big Sioux river flows, 
Now a city thrives and grows, 
But the famous yellow maize 
Has outlived the Indian's days. 
And each coteau, plain and hill 
Yields the golden kernels still, 
And the pale-face by the Sioux 
Offering makes to Manitou, 
After every harvest moon, 
For this never-failing boon. 
And he apes the Indian's ways 
With a temple built of maize, 
Under whose palatial wing 
Wam-na-he-za reigns as king. 
And War Eagle on the hill 
In his sleep has visions still, 
And he sees the palace rise 
Upward to the sun-kissed skies. 
And the famous Indian brave 

Mutters softly in his grave 

Just as if he understood: 

" Wano ! Wano ! It is good ! " 

'Twas in the year 1890, and time was rapidly hastening 
or toward the hazy days of autumn, and King Corn reigned 
supreme throughout the regions of the great northwest. 
Already the song of the reapers has died away and from afar 
are cauirht faint murmurs — voices of the merry huskers. Only 

373 



374 IOWA LEAVES. 

a few short years ago this now haught}' monarch bowed to 
Cotton who proclaimed in clarion tones, "I am king! " but now 
it is his turn to bow in silent humility, while King Corn calls upon 
the entire world to come and view his grandeur and his 
greatness. 

At one time, it was in the United States alone that he 
held indisputable sway, but, feeling that he had not room 
enough even in that wide domain to use all the golden ears 
that grow upon his princely estate, he has erected a palace 
each year in honor of his greatness, which exceeds in wonder 
and fantastic beauty all other palaces and so mystifies the 
beholders that they imagine they are gazing upon some of 
those enchanted creations of which they have read in the 
"Arabian Nights." At this palace he holds a yearly carnival 
and, as all people from the highest to the lowest have been fed 
from his beneficent bounty, so all classes from the chief execu- 
tive to the common laborers of the land have feasted their 
wearied eyes — hungry for something new, something unique, 
as well as beautiful — upon the magic beauty of this palace of 
palaces. 

In unbroken stream the people come — from the Atlantic 
and Pacific coasts, from the warm gulf and the frozen zones, 
from all parts of the greatest republic on earth, which, some 
one has said, is "bounded on the north by the aurora borealis, 
on the east by the rising sun, on the south by the southern 
cross and on the west by the setting sun." Nor does King 
Corn^s fame cease here. From across the seas come calls for 
pictures of the famous castle. To Europeans and people of 
other nations who had only the meager variety of white bread 
for the rich and brown bread for the peasants, the use of corn 
for food is of especial inportance. They have learned, too, 



IOWA LEAVES. 375 

something of artistic designs. Even Paris, that city rich in 
original fancies and artistic decorations at her last exposition, 
copied the design of a corn palace, which is a purely western 
product. 

The site of this temple of agriculture is the best that 
could possibly be found for it in all the world. It is near the 
land of the Dakotas, which Longfellow has made famous in 
his sweet poem, " Song of Hiawatha." 

In the land of the Ojibways, 
In the pleasant land and peaceful 
Sing the mysteries of Mondamim, 
Sing the blessings of the corn-fields. 

It is situated in the western part of that state which leads 
all others in the production of corn, Iowa. It is in its beauty 
on the banks of that muddy river which gathers its waters 
from the snow-clad heights of the Rockies and grows from a 
laughing rivulet to a slowly-moving stream, the Missouri. 
And last, but not least, it is located in that city, the people of 
which "have a way of their own" and the inhabitants never 
grow to be old fogies. 

In 1888 President and Mrs. Cleveland pronounced the 
corn palace the only new thing they had seen in their trip 
through the eastern and western states. The eloquent orator, 
Chauncey Depew, grew enthusiastic over it. But the glory of 
that palace is as faint as the shadow of a dream compared to 
the gorgeousness of the palace of 1890. When the idea of the 
fourth corn palace was first suggested it was scouted by a great 
many people who supposed they were astute thinkers. Their 
objections were many; some as follows: "You can get nothing 
new." "The fundamental idea has been exhausted." "The peo- 
ple must be tired of it." But these were all overcome. A new 



370 IOWA LEAVES. 

architect was engaged, an entirely new design was selected, 
twice as large as any of the previous buildings. Then was 
raised the objection that it could never be filled and decorated, 
but it became a puzzle to economize room so as to have enough 
for the applications which came pouring in for space, and in 
spite of its vast dimensions the artists found no difficulty in 
decorating the building. 

While the completed corn palace embodied an original 
idea of satisfying and comprehensive significance, it is not to be 
understood that there was at the start definite and complete 
consciousness of the idea. It rather grew with the making of 
the corn palace. The decorative possibilities of the corn plant 
and of the other products of the Sioux City corn-held, far from 
beins" understood at the outset, were not even dreamed of. 

The working out of the details of the corn palace itself, 
the discovery of the artistic possibilities of the corn plant and 
the sudden inspiration which was born of such discover}', were 
things which came later, came in tlie work of building. An 
Aphrodite sprang from the ocean's foam; so when the effort was 
once begun to represent the beneficence of the typical product 
of the northwestern field dawned the realization of its artistic 
resourc -s. 

An abundant harvest was ripening in the royal domain, 
when some one in Sioux City suggested the idea of the holding 
of a harvest festival and corn jubilee in honor and recognition 
of the bounteous gift. That hint, vague and undefined as it 
was, sufficed to stir the spirit of enterprise in Sioux City breasts. 
It was the virile germ of a grand event. Then followed a 
more deliberate and practical consideration of the scheme. A 
committee of Sioux City business men was designated to take 
the matter in charge and effect an operative organizatino. 



IOWA LEAVES. 377 

When a committee is appointed in Sioujc City, it may be 
remarked, a foregone conclusion is that something is going to 
be done. Such an appointment, even by an informal body like 
the early festival meetings, is not a mere honorary distinction 
to be treated lightly or ignorantly altogether by the ap- 
pointee. It is a business transaction and exact duty is re- 
quired of all. This fact is alluded to as a characteristic of 
Sioux City. 

Another distinguishing trait of the citizens of Sioux City is 
the merging of the individual into the municipal whole when 
credit or profit is accorded b}' the public. In the present 
instance the distinction of originating the corn palace is accorded 
to "the people." 

Before undertaking a description of the decorations, with- 
out which the palace would have been an ungainly pile of 
rough materials, an idea of the magnitude of the labor and 
wealth expended thereon is imparted by giving some of the 
builder's estimates. There were 400,000 feet of lumber con- 
sumed, 15,000 bushels of yellow corn and 5,000 bushels of 
variegated varieties, 500 pounds of carpet tacks, 3,000 pounds 
of nails, 1,500 pounds of small brads, 2,500 feet of rope, 500 
pounds of small wire and 3,500 yards of cloth. It took forty- 
six men six weeks to erect the palace and nearly 300 men and 
women to place the decorations in form. Ten teams were 
employed ten weeks in hauling the corn and grain. Two steam 
saws were engaged constantly eight days cutting corn ears into 
small pieces for decorative signs and ornamental work. Besides 
this labor is all that was done by farmers in delivering grains 
from their own stocks. The total cost of the palace, not includ- 
ing a vast amount of labor and material gratuitously con- 
tributed, was about $30,000. 



378 



IOWA LEAVES. 



About twenty counties of northwestern Iowa, South 
Dakota and Nebraska have exhibits. The states of Louisiana, 
Mississippi and Tennessee have splendid showings of their 




SIOUX city's corn palace. 



products, which are in striking contrast to those of the 
northwest. 

The corn palace of 1890 fronts on Sixth street and west on 
Pierce street. Each front is 250 feet in length and the south- 



IOWA LEAVES. 379 

west corner is cut to a face sixty feet wide. The building is 
merely a frame inclosed with boards, but has been made tight 
to turn rain and protect visitors in any weather. It has the 
appearance of a square from the outside, but the interior is 
finished in the form of an octagon. 

The main wall is forty-two feet high and from it the roof 
rises in a pyramid, the apex of which — ii6 feet above the 
ground — is truncated and upon which is placed a globe forty- 
five feet in diameter. This globe is reall}^ the base of the cen- 
tral tower and over it, as another part of the tower, is placed a 
framework which forms an immense crown. The crown is 
supposed to be that of King Corn. Its height above the 
ground is 196 feet. Just beneath it is the globe, every geo- 
graphical feature being wrought out in various colors of corn. 
The sections of corn sawed lengthwise are nailed on. Thus the 
oceans are represented as a dark expanse by sections of blue 
squaw corn, which, viewed from the street, seem a solid mass. 

The continents stand out in bright yellow and the lake and 
other prominent features are made distinct. 

These decorations will suggest somewhat the methods 
followed in adorning the exterior. The architect has so 
designed the building that the towers, turrets, gables and other 
elevations rising above the walls and projecting outward present 
ample and varied fields for the artist's ingenuity. Corn is the 
main material, but all the grasses and grains are also used. 
The interior is decorated with even greater skill. A gallery 
projects from the walls to a distance of twenty-six feet and a 
height of twenty feet above the ground floor. The diameter of 
the interior, measuring from face to face of the gallery, is no 
feet. Eight great pillars sustain the roof and over this central 
space are thrown trusses which support the dome. The whole 



380 IOWA LEAVES. 

interior is decorated with the products of the soil. A pretty 
effect is produced by entwining the pillars with great wreaths 
of evergreens and grains. 

The ceiling is covered with oats, heads down, and millet 
and flax. Everywhere are designs wrought out in these mate- 
rials. One of the most striking features of the decorations 
this year is the working out of pictures in grains. A frame is 
first made and crossed with cloth, upon which the sketch is 
made in crayon. The outlines are then filled in with suitable 
materials and the result is a picture of astonishing effects of 
color. One of these pictures represents a tally-ho coach party. 
The white horses are represented by hulled millet; the dark 
by flax and turnip seed. The tails and manes are made of 
corn silk and the harness is made of husks. The various parts 
of the coach are made of grains of corn of various colors, the 
main body of a dark mahogany color and the windows of 
husks. Similar materials are employed to represent the driver 
and the figures on top of the coach, every detail being brought 
out with surprising accuracy. There are scores of similarly- 
wrought pictures, landscapes, groups, marines, etc. One feature 
is a cascade; it is a sheet of water fifteen feet wide, having the 
appearance of flowing through a gorge and terminates in a fall 
of thirty feet, breaking at last in silvery spray and collecting 
below in snowy flecks of foam, forming at the foot of the 
cataract a large lake, in which is mirrored in tenfold loveliness 
all the enchanting scene. Twinkling in its lucid depth will 
gleam the reflections of thousands of incandescent and arc 
lights. For group above group, to the very edge of the 
cataract, will glow these starry lights, giving to the falling 
waters and golden mists a brilliant sheen which will dazzle 
the mind with its bewildering beauty. The light of the sun 



IOWA LEAVES. 381 

will never strike you liere, but far above all this gleams star- 
shaped lights that will add much to the unparalleled splendor. 
When the eye grows sated with all this grandeur, there opens 
to the pleasure-seeker cool caves, as natural and secluded as 
though far from the haunts of men, and grottoes so real that 
almost instinctively you will look for the fairy wood-nymph 
that reigns in that sequestered spot; do not be startled if 
she should really appear in all her nymphean etherealism and 
minister to you. On ever}' side are seen the cereals. Corn 
predominates, but the smaller grains also enter largely into the 
decorations. On the outside the ear is mostly used, cut both 
lengthwise and crosswise, and here the designs require some- 
thing more minute and the kernel is more extensively used. 
These are arranged in geometrical and artistic designs, which 
at a distance rival in their irridescent splendor the finest of the 
ancient mosaics. 

The many colors of the cereals permit an endless variety 
of design which will astonish those uninitiated in the mysteries 
of the decorative art. Tapesteries and festoons that delight 
the eye seem all too magnificent to be composed of so seem- 
ingl}'- common materials. The various exhibits are a revelation 
to many. We learn in geography that Iowa and the surround- 
ing states produce corn, wheat, oats, etc., but 3'ou can have no 
conception of the great value of these products and the wealth 
that they represent till you see them in the multitudinous forms 
which are here presented. South Dakota has an exhibit which 
conveys to the hitherto incredulous ones a true idea of the 
vast resources and possibilities of the Dakotas. Three of the 
largest railroads in Sioux City have excellent exhibits of the 
products all along their lines and when a wealthy corpora- 
tion attempts such an exhibition there can be no possible 



382 IOWA LEAVES. 

question but that there will be something worth seeing. The 
main room glows as with living light, the walls blossom with 
fairy forms, seemingly endowed with life, so vivid is the 
imagery, so lifelike the tints. You have seen flowers spring to 
bloom before you and you have seen the crowded gallery sup- 
ported by its graceful columns and festooned in myriads of 
garlands that reflect the light in mellow rays of softest 

radiance. 

You may, perchance, turn to go, thinking you have 
exhausted the wonders of the veritable fairy land, but you 
have not ascended to the dome from which the radiant scene 
looks still more lovely. And, hark! as you turn strains of 
more than earthly sweetness are wafted on the perfume-laden 
air, and, listening, the music swells and becomes martial in its 
character. No need to ask whence it comes. The throng 
already presses toward the auditorium on the east side of the 
building. As you value your reputation as a musical critic do 
not ask who are the creators of this soul-stirring harmony. 
All the traveling, music-loving public know that nothing on 
either side of the great ocean could produce such melody other 
than the world-renowned Elgin Military band. At an immense 
cost the services of this band have been secured, with their 
leader. Prof. J. Hecker, who is a native of Nausau, Germany, 
and a natural musician. At ten years of age he was first 
violinist in the orchestra of his native town and at the age of 
fifteen he was director of the same. When about twenty 
years of age he went to England. When the Elgin band 
secured his services he resigned his position as director of the 
Eighty-Second British Parliament, Prince of Wales Volunteers. 
This famous band has played in many places and is an especial 
favorite with the American people. Among the places which 



IOWA LEAVES. 383 

they have visited are the corn palace of i8S8, the mineral palace 
at Pueblo, the Milwaukee exposition and the spring palace at 
Ft. Worth. At the last-named place they had the mis- 
fortune to have their instruments burned, but at an expense of 
$15,000 they have all been replaced by new ones whose tones 
harmonize even more perfectly than the old ones. With its 
already well-earned fame, its permanent membership and a 
leader who is a social as well as a musical success and who 
has demonstrated his ability to direct so perfectly this organiza- 
tion, this band cannot fail to fulhll all its bright promises for 
the future. Its repertoire now consists of more than 6,000 
pieces, including those from such classical composers as Liszt, 
Wagner, Strauss, Mendelssohn, Beethoven and Handel. While 
the connoisseurs delight in the rendition of such famous 
selections, they do not forget the more simple melodies which 
are so dear to every true American citizen and the soldiers are 
again inspired by the thrilling strains of the national hymn and 
even "Yankee Doodle" will probably not be forgotten. Two 
grand concerts are given each day and they consist not alone 
of concert pieces by the band but also comprise solos on the 
cornet, clarionet, trombone, violoncello, flute and piccolo, 
sprinkled with duets, quartettes and vocal numbers. Other 
entertainments have been proVided that call forth the full 
admiration of the multitudes, from the almond-eyed oriental of 
the east to the typical representative of the west. 

While within all is intricate beauty, the outside of the 
palace will be no less charming. Although the structure is so 
large, the covering of cereals gives it an appearance of fairy- 
like airiness. Above the wide-arched entrance at the corner 
of Pearl and Sixth streets rises the central dome, which proudly 
bears the stars and stripes, its silken sheen gleaming 175 feet 



384 IOWA LEAVES. 

above the earth. On the sides facing Pierce and Sixth streets 
are four domes each; these unfurl other starry banners and 
turrets and towers innumerable, fanciful and fantastic, rise in 
graceful loveliness. From tower to tower, from dome to dome 
and turret to turret hang great festoons of the grasses and 
cereals of the northwest. Outside the palace the entertain- 
ments are sumptueous and grand. The feature of the great 
festival is the grand street pageant, the glittering magnificence 
of which rivals the far-famed Mardi gras of New Orleans 
and the tropical luxuriance of the Carnival-de-Venice will pale 
before its unique and dazzling novelties. The same artist, 
Francois Dubois, who is engaged to create the designs for the 
next year's Mardi gras, has been secured to arrange the parade 
for Sioux City, and it was with the greatest difficulty; but 
" Sioux City has a way of its own" and that way is ever crowned 
with success and knows not the meaning of the word fail. 
There were 200 in chariots and on horses; all the costumes were 
the creation of this artist for this especial occasion. The 
papier mache work was made abroad and shipped to Sioux City 
in sections ; it was put together here by scenic artists, who also 
arranged the floats and other paraphernalia. The reader may 
think that all this must have cost something; yes, it did. The 
waterfall alone, with its large sewers to carry off the surplus 
water has cost an immense amount, while the Elgin band is the 
most expensive that could be obtained. Hundreds and hundreds 
of decorations have been employed; the street pageant itself has 
consumed a private fortune; but Sioux City never stops for 
expense and guests are not wanting. Special trains were 
ordered in Boston and other eastern cities for the purpose of 
visiting the eighth wonder of the world and many temporay 
hotels were reared for the accommodation of the masses. 



IOWA LEAVES. 385 

With thirty miles of street railway, electric, cable and 
elevated, Sioux City has facilities to convey her guests to any 
part of the city; with her seventeen miles of paved streets and 
her many miles of shady avenues and the elegant turn-outs 
provided by the numerous liveries, she offers special induce- 
ments to while away the leisure hours in viewing the city from 
all the surrounding heights. 

The manufacturing suburbs of Leeds, North Riverside and 
Lynn offer many advantages to those wishing to invest in 
either real estate or manufacturing interests. At the largest 
jobbing point in Iowa traders can see what business means. 

The forty churches of Sioux City gladly welcome all 
strangers to worship with them on the Sabbath. As the fourth 
packing center of the United States she can entertain all inter- 
ested in that branch of industry. 

With her sixty-seven manufacturing establishments, one 
will not be at a loss to find places to visit of some interest. 

In the pavilion at the end of the cable line are given 
nightly entertainments, while the Peavy Grand is the finest 
opera-house between Chicago and Ogden. 

The buildings of Sioux City, both public and private, are 
fine structures always kept in perfect repair. Eight great high- 
ways pass through this lively center, making in all sixteen 
approaches to the city. All these roads give reduced rates dur- 
ing the corn palace festival, thus giving unexcelled opportunities 
to visit the great northwest. 

All who visit Sioux City are treated with a courtesy before 
unknown and will experience a pleasure trip to be remembered 
for a lifetime and will learn of things which their wildest fancy 
never imagines. The "Grand Characteristic Parade," repre- 
senting Sioux City in 1854, proved a splendid ovation. No 



386 IOWA LEAVES. 

such concourse of people was ever before seen in the northwest. 
A more entertaining and significant presentment of historic fact 
would have been difficult to devise and both to surviving 
pioneers of the northwest, whose memories retain the experi- 
ence of primitive life, and to the younger generation and visitors 
from the east, to whom the hardships of earh' western days 
were known only by tradition, the opening display was per- 
haps the most interesting one shown during the festival. 

This parade moved at lo o'clock a.m. Tuesday, October 
4, a platoon of police clearing the way and after them a band 
of musicians; then came a band of Indians from the reserva- 
tion — Omahas, Sioux and Winnebagos — numbering 250. 
Seventy-five of the Indians were mounted, being in full war 
paint and feathers and clad with the skins of wild animals, 
bright-colored prints and gaudy clothes, uttering supposed war- 
whoops and brandishing weapons as they moved along. There 
lacked nothing to paint the picture which in 1854 was one of 
terror to the adventurous settlers of the northwest. At some 
distance behind the troop of mounted warriors, which went 
through all the evolutions of Indian warfare, charging with 
piercing whoops, breaking in disorder, reforming with the pre- 
cision of regular cavalr}', there followed the remainder of the 
band in motley vehicles and equipages, which are only to be 
seen on an Indian reservation. The squaws and papooses were 
decked out in the gaudiest of savage fancy and they gazed at 
the sights at every hand in wonderment equal to that with 
which they were themselves regarded by the multitude. 

As the Indian band sped on and passed out of view there 
came, most appropriately in the realistic pvanorama, the signs of 
advancing civilization — the representatives of the vanguard of 
the mighty army which drove out the red man and made his 



IOWA LEAVES. 387 

hunting-ground a corn-held. The pack train followed hard upon 
the heels of the retreating Indians, six ponies bearing a burden 
of furs and other frontier spoil bound for the trading post. 
They, like the other figures in this peculiar drama, were genuine. 
At their side was George Tackett, an experienced trapper in 
those wild days, who speaks the language of the native. He 
was clad in buckskin garb with rifie slung for instant use and 
looked like the frontier man he used to be. If the pencil of 
a Stanley could have caught him then historic art would have 
been enriched. Next came the stage coach with Tom Parott, 
the second oldest stage driver in the northwest, on the box. 
The stage contained express messengers duly armed and a 
"friendly" Indian. 

The emigrant train of the '50s followed next. There 
was the spectacle of the old-time prairie schooners drawn by 
oxen and filled with the characteristic household effects, the 
working tools and scant possessions of the pioneer. Behind 
some wagons the never-failing feed box was hung on and over 
it the spinning-wheel and venerable splint-bottomed chairs. In 
rear of others the family cow was led; the rear of another 
held a crate in which were ducks and chickens; one wagon had 
lost a hind wheel and came trailing along alone on a pole. 
The travel-stained canvas bore legends copied from literal 
inscriptions remembered by the early comers. 

The next picture was especially realistic — a freight train 
bound for the Black Hills camp. It was no illusion, for the 
immense vans had seen actual service. Three vans, lashed 
together in true frontier style piled full of freight, were drawn 
by six-mule teams, the driver guiding them with a single line 
and the bells upon their harness jingling merrily as they moved 
along. It was a true survivor of old-time prairie life. 



388 IOWA LEAVES. 

It would require an immense amount of space to describe 
particularly the floats and various other representations of 
pioneer days which made up the first day's parade. What has 
been said will suffice as a suggestion of the comprehensiveness 
and accuracy of this particular display and also of the other 
parades during the festival. 

The industrial parade, military parade, consolidated 
review. Grand Lodge of Iowa Masons, etc., were all fine and 
the visit of a party of eminent railroad men was an important 
event in the history of the corn palace city and northwest 
Iowa. Cornelius Vanderbilt, Mr. Ferris, Albert Keep, Chauncey 
M. Depew, Marvin Hughit, J. M. Whitman, Mr. Webb of the 
Wagner Car Company, Vice-President Sykes of the North- 
western system, Mr. DeCosta of the Lake Shore road and Mr. 
Fitch of the Sioux City & Pacific road were traveling by 
special train over the lines in which they were interested and 
signified a desire to visit the corn palace. Although the expo- 
sition had just closed, the city authorities and a number of 
Sioux City business men received the party in an informal 
manner and conducted the distinguished party through the pal- 
ace, still undisturbed in decorations and exhibits. The visitors 
expressed hearty appreciation of the evidence of the prosperity 
of this region. Mr. Depew was called on to address the com- 
pany and spoke in his eloquent and felicitous style. 

President and Mrs. Cleveland visited the corn palace of 
1888, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Postmaster-General Vilas, 
Judge Wilson Bissel, Col. Lamont and others. 

Mr. Cleveland expressed surprise at the qualit}' of the corn 
grown in northwest Iowa and remarked that it certainly must 
be a rich country. He asked many questions relative to the 
productiveness and resources of the northwest. His curiosity 



JOWA LEAVES. 389 

was aroused by specimens of parti colored "squaw corn" and he 
said: "With your permission I will take one of these," putting 
an ear of the corn in his pocket. Mrs. Cleveland was the 
recipient of numerous bouquets and other souvenirs of the palace. 
The visit of the President's party at that time, under the 
circumstances, was a fair illustration of the interest which was 
excited throughout the country in the great festival. The lead- 
ing papers of all the large cities sent special correspondents, 
who daily telegraphed elaborate reports of its features and 
progress. The leading pictorial papers, like Harper's Weekly 
and Frank Leslie's in this country, and even the London 
Graphic and Illustrated News, published copious illustrations 
and gave extended accounts. 

The success of the Sioux City corn palace of 1890 was so 
signal and the impression made by it upon the public mind so 
deep and abiding that it has become a permanent and distinctive 
Sioux City enterprise. Sioux City will be the scene of an 
annual harvest; local aspirations answering to the earnest 
demand of the northwest involved this result, the interest of 
which, running far beyond the limits of the upper Missouri val- 
ley enlists attention which may almost be described as national 
in extent. 

The success of the corn palace of 1891 is more than 
assured. It is certified by the eminent success of the corn 
palace of 1890. In the agricultural domain of the upper Mis- 
souri valley there has been seasons of prosperity. Seedtime 
and harvest never fail in the unrivaled corn region of north- 
west Iowa, which rejoices the heart and moves to celebration. 
To such a prospect Sioux City extends a cordial invitation to 
the world and to the million visitors who will gaze upon the 
corn palace of 1891 assurance of their fullest satisfaction. 



390 IOWA LEAVES. 

A SYMPHONY IN CEREALS. 
AN attorney's description of the corn palace and 

ITS beauties. 

In the /farmers'' Institute., published at Mason City, appears 
the following from Sioux City, being a novel and interesting 
description of the corn palace, written by J. H. Quick of 
this city: 

The corn palace is now in process of construction. Again the architect's 
brain has evolved the plan, again the great piles of lumber are seen on the ground, 
and again hammer and saw are heard articulating the skeleton of the corn marvel. 
This time the palace will look like a bit of scenery from the banks of the Bosphorus, 
for the design is that of a great Turkish mosque, and from its slender minarets and 
towering dome one might almost expect to hear the voice of the muezzin calling all 
true believers to prayer. But it is dedicated to the prophet of agriculture and not to 
the prophet of Islam; to Mondamin, not Mohammed. 

By the time this reaches your readers the work will be well under way. A 
great mosque, elegant in form, broad, lofty and in every way spacious in dimensions, 
is built of — what? Simply rough lumber! It is an architectural anomaly. 

Shut your eyes and enter and from the evidence of your nostrils you will 
imagine yourself in some great barn filled with fragrant hay and new-garnered grain. 
Trust your ears and you will imagine it a workshop from the constant tapping of 
innumerable hammers and buzzmg of saws. Open your eyes and you exclaim, 
"It is fairyland!" 

In place of the piles of lumber are such quantities of heterogeneous truck 
that it seems a dozen agricultural fair exhibits reduced to chaos. Piles of cornstalks 
and of corn in the ear in different-colored lots— in one pile red ears, in another 
yellow, in another white, or blue or "calico" corn, or pop-corn — are daily deposited on 
the grounds. Here come stacks of sorghum and wheat and barley and rye. Quanti- 
ties of millet and other marsh grass appear. Every kind of grass or cereal is brought 
here from all the surrounding country and the wonderful task begins. 

Over yonder is a little buzz-saw run by an electric motor. It has a hopper like 
a corn-sheller and a man feeds it with ears of corn. They come out neatly split in 
the middle, just as a long cucumber might be sliced in two with a knife. Near him 
is another man at a machine similar to those which grocers use for cutting plug 
tobacco. He is cutting off transverse sections of ears of corn in cylindrical blocks of 
uniform length. These slabs and blocks play an important part in rendering 
beautiful this temple of Ceres. 

You think some of the patterns done in cut shingles on Queen Anne cottages 
nowadays pretty, don't you? Yet on the corn palace they are put to shame by 



IOWA LEAVES. 391 

designs in blocks and slabs of corn on a backing of pine. A man nails on four half 
ears side by side, with their flat side to the wall, and they make a square. These 
run up and down. Run the next square horizontally and you have another square of 
different appearance. Cover a large space with these alternating squares or dia- 
monds and a curious imbricated appearance is given which is wonderfully beautiful 
even when done in only one color. But imagine the gorgeous effect when all the 
colors found in corn are used by people who are the greatest masters of such deco- 
rative art in the world. 

Diverge these slabs of corn from a common center and you have a star, and 
nothing but the figures in a kaleidoscope can vie with the designs here found in 
either number or beauty. Still more striking effects are produced by the use of the 
cylindrical blocks. Each block end shows the white cob with a ring of red or blue or 
yellow around it. You see at a glance how this form lends itself to decorative purposes- 

You look at a column and you think it is marble at the top gradually shading 
down to deepest carnelian at the bottom. Yet it is nothing but corn. A model of a 
beautiful boat-house is worked out in every particular. 

Flags in red, white and blue, a ten-inch cannon, yellow as brass outside and 
blue as steel within; here you think surely some other substance has been used. 
Step closer and you will see that the brass and steel are made by fitting kernels of 
corn closely together and fastening each kernel in place with a tack. There are rich 
brown spaces covered with flax showing the balls. Others are bright green— these 
are cane. The rays of yellow light shooting out from the sun up there are yellow 
cornstalks. 

Golden wheat and rye and millet and barley are used in a thousand ways. 
Not in geometrical patterns alone. Landscapes of astonishing beauty are done in 
natural colors by the fair artists of Sioux City; but instead of oils and water colors 
they are hay and corn and grass. And they need nothing else, for their success 
is perfect. 

All these things have been done in former years, but the palace of 1891 
promises to be a surprise to Sioux City people even. It will be 264 by 264 feet in 
size, twice as large as last year's palace. Its style will be graceful and beautiful in 
the highest degree. Its decorations will exceed anything of its kind ever seen. It 
will be filled with exhibits from all over the country. It will have an auditorium 
seating 1,200 people. Trained musicians will occupy the stage. Its ventilation will 
be perfect, but daylight will be excluded and it will be lighted by thousands of 
electric lights. 

When the visitor enters he will be struck with wonder. He will look across a 
clear space of nearly 100 feet, and on the opposite side, dazzling with incan- 
descent lights, he will see a waterfall pouring into a lake, peopled with fish. There 
will be fairy grottoes, each one having a special attraction. Away up in the top of 
the lofty dome will be an artificial sky studded with electric stars. Strains of sweet 
music will mingle with the sound of the falling waters, and around will be arranged 
the useful and beautiful treasures of a score of states. 



392 IOWA LEAVES. 

A QUOTATION. 

Oh, I am the king of a grander realm 
Than monarch or czar may own. 

The forces of nature my vassals are 
And the wide, gray earth my throne. 

My banners hung on a thousand hills 
Their radiant oriflamme; 

And the air was thrill with resonant song 
Of welcome when I came. 

And none but I the miracle knew; 

How from the humble seed 
The mystic wonder of harvest grew 

In answer to human need. 

The song of vintage resounds at eve. 
And echoes at early morn; 

But the sweetest melody of the year 
Is heard in the rustling corn. 

And I am the mystic warder 

That stands at the autumn's gate — 

Mondamin, the carnival spirit. 
That rules at the palace fete. 

And my song is of joy and gladness — 
A rune without favor or tear — 

The mith but never the sadness 
That comes with the waning year. 

For I am the king of a grander realm 
Than monarch or czar may own. 

The forces of nature my vassals are 
And the wide, gray earth my throne. 



PART SIXTH 



EARLY REMINISCENCES 



OF NORTHEAST AND CENTRAL IOWA, AND DESCRIP- 
TION OF THE CAPITAL CITY. 



.t^^^^^ss 



GEN. GEO. W. JONES. 

PIONEER OF NORTHEASTERN IOWA. 

Gen. Geo. W. Jones of Dubuque, Iowa, was born at Vin- 
cennes, Ind., on April 12, 1804, and came with his parents, 
Hon. John R. and Mary Jones, to Kaskaskia, 111., in 1805, and 
from there went to St. Genevieve, Mo., in 1808, and to New 
Diggings, Potosi, Mo., in 18 14. 

His father framed the first con- 
stitution of Missouri and was 
justice of the supreme court of 
that state until he died at St. 
Louis on February i, 1824. He 
also served as an officer under 
Col. Geo. R. Clark, at the capt- 
ure of Vincennes and Kaskaskia 
in 1779. Those were dark days 
-^ indeed in the history of the infant 
settlements of the great north- 
west, in consequence of the many 
outrages practiced by the Indians. 
Gen. Jones attended school at St. 
Genevieve, Potosi and St. Louis, 
graduating at Transylvania university in Lexington, Ky., on 
July 13, 1825. 

He was sergeant of the bod3'-guard of Gen. Andrew Jack, 
son, as that very distinguished hero and statesman passed 

395 




Gen. Geo. W, Jones. 



336 IOWA LEAVES. 

through Kentucky and Lexington to take his seat in the senate 
of the United States in November, 1823. He also served in the 
same capacity to the Marquis de La Fayette at Lexington in 
May following. He was drummer boy in the company com- 
manded by Capt. Wm. Sinn at St. Genevieve, Mo., in the 
fall of 1 814. He was clerk of the district court of the United 
States at St. Genevieve, Mo., from 1825 to 1827. He was aid- 
de-camp to Gen. Henry Dodge in the Black Hawk war, and 
was colonel, general and judge in Iowa county. Wis., twice 
sergeant-general and three times elected delegate to congress, 
and was Iowa's first United States senator and minister to 
Bogota, South America. 

Gen. Jones has been a long and favored resident of Iowa, 
his home having been in Dubuque since about 1839. He is 
now in his eighty-fourth year, hale and hearty, and the inter- 
esting facts which he can relate in regard to the early settling 
of Iowa would fill a large volume. 



CHAPTER I. 

For many years it had been the poHcy of the government 
to obtain a reHnquishment of the title of the Indians to all 
lands within the limits of the states and as rapidly as possible 
cause the removal of the tribes to territories beyond the Mis- 
sissippi. In 1830 the Chickasaws and Choctaws, occupying 
portions of the states of Alabama and Mississippi, agreed to 
remove and in due time carried out their agreement in good 
faith.. The same year a treaty was made with the Sacs and 
Foxes by which they agreed to cede their lands to the United 
States and remove beyond the Mississippi. The principal 
village of these united tribes was located at the mouth of Rock 
river, on the east side of the Mississippi, near where the city 
of Rock Island now stands. Here had been an Indian village, 
according to tradition, for 1 50 years. These tribes had owned 
and occupied the country bordering on the Mississippi to an 
extent of 700 miles, from the mouth of the Wisconsin almost 
to the mouth of the Missouri. The Indians did not seem dis- 
posed to comply promptly with the terms of the treaty and 
one band, under the noted chief Black Hawk (Ma-ka-tai-me-she- 
kai-kiak), evinced a determination to keep possession of their 
old village. John Reynolds, governor of Illinois, construed 
their continued residence in the ceded territory as an invasion 
of the state and under his authority, to protect the state from 
invasion, ordered out 700 militia to force their removal, accord- 
ing to the treaty. This interference of the governor of 
Illinois with the duties belonging to the federal government, 

397 



398 70TT^.4 LEAVES. 

obliged the commander of United States troops in that quarter 
to co-operate with him in order to prevent a collision between 
the state militia and the Indians. Ft. Armstrong, on Rock 
Island, had been established as early as 1816 and when the 
Black Hawk trouble commenced was in command of Gen. 
Atkinson. The Indians were overawed by this imposing 
military force and, yielding to necessity, crossed the Mississippi. 
Black Hawk, feeling exasperated at the harsh treatment his 
people had received, resolved to prosecute a predatory war 
against the white settlements. He united his band of Sacs and 
Foxes with the Winnebagoes under the command of the 
prophet Wabo-ki-e-sheik (White Cloud) and in March, 1832, 
recrossed to the east side of the Mississippi. They murdered 
a number of defenseless families and committed many outrages 
upon the settlers. The whole frontier became alarmed and 
many of the settlers fled for safety. The governor of Illinois 
ordered out the state militia, which, being joined by 400 regular 
troops, constituted a force of about 1,000, under the command 
of Gen. Atkinson. They pursued the Indians and after a ciam- 
paign of about two months, during which two engagements 
were fought, the war was bi'ought to an end. The last and the 
decisive battle of the war is known in history as the battle of 
Bad Axe, being fought on a small tributary of the Wisconsin 
of that name. This battle took place August 2, 1832, and the 
force against Black Hawk was commanded by Gen. Henry 
Dodge of Wisconsin. The Indians lost forty of their braves 
and Gen. Dodge one. The Indians made but little further 
resistance and Black Hawk's '-British band," as it was styled, 
became demoralized and fled. They reached the Mississippi 
and were making preparations for crossing when they were 
checked by the captain of the steamboat Warrior, who dis- 



IOWA LEAVES. 399 

charged a six-pounder at them, although they had disphiyed a 
flag of truce. The next morning Gen. Atkinson arrived with 
his army and made an attack which the Indians were now 
powerless to resist. Black Hawk escaped, but was taken by 
some treacherous Winnebagoes and delivered along with the 
prophet on August 27 to Gen. Street at Prairie du Chien. 
Twb of Black Hawk's sons, the prophet and other leaders 
were also taken and by order of the government w^ere 
conveyed through the principal cities and towns on the seaboard 
in order that they might be impressed with the greatness and 
power of the United States. 

For some time Black Hawk was held as captive and 
then, through the intercession of Keokuk, who had been opposed 
to the war and had not participated in the hostilities, he was 
allowed to return to Rock Island, and permitted to join his 
people. Treaties were made with the offending tribes, by 
which they agreed to compensate for the expense of the war 
by ceding a valuable part of their territor}' on the west side of 
the Mississippi, and to remove immediately from the east side. 
The United States stipulated to pay to these tribes annually 
$30,000 for twenty-seven years, and also to make other pro- 
visions for them. By this treaty the United States acquired 
the lirst territory in Iowa which was opened to settlement. It 
is what is known as the "Black Hawk Purchase '^ and em- 
braced a strip of territory extending "from the northern bound- 
ary of Missouri to the north of the upper Iowa river, about 
tifty miles in width, and embracing an area of about 6,000,000 
acres. This treaty was made on September 21, 1S32, 
at a council held on the west bank of the Mississippi 
river, where the city of Davenport now stands, in northeast 
Iowa. Gen. Wintield Scott and Gov. John Reynolds of Illinois 



400 IOWA LEAVES. 

represented the United States, and on the part of the Indians 
there were present Keokuk, Pashepaho, and about thirty other 
chiefs and warriors of the Sac and Fox nation. Within the 
limits of this purchase was reserved a tract of 400 square 
miles, situated on the Iowa river and including Keokuk's 
villao:e. This tract was known as " Keokuk's Reserve," and 
was occupied by the Indians until 1836, when it was ceded to 
the United States. This treaty was negotiated by Gov. 
Henry Dodge of Wisconsin territory, and on the part of the 
Indians Keokuk was the leading spirit. This council was also 
held on the banks of the Mississippi, near the site of the present 
city of Davenport. The treaty stipulated for the removal of 
the Indians to another reservation on the Des ^Nloines river. 
On this an agency was established where the present town of 
Agency City in Wapello county is located. Out of the "Black 
Hawk Purchase " was conveyed to Antoine Le Claire, an inter- 
preter, whose wife was an Indian, one section of land opposite 
Rock Island and another at the head of the first rapids above 
the island. 

Julien Dubuque, a Frenchman by birth, had the honor of 
makino; the first white settlement in northeastern Iowa. In 
1788, having obtained permission from the Indians, he crossed 
the Mississippi with a small party of miners for the purpose of 
working lead mines at the place where is now located the city 
which bears his name, the lead having been discovered a short 
time before by the wife of Peosta, a Fox warrior. Dubuque 
was a native of France and as a trader he acquired great 
influence with the Sac and Fox chiefs. Dubuque, as was a 
common custom among the French traders, had married an 
Indian woman. He gave to the district embraced in this grant 
the name of the mines of Spain, in 1796, in compliment 



IOWA LEAVES. 401 

to the Spanish governor. He remained in mining until his 
death, which occurred ^Nlarch 24, 18 10. He was buried on 
a bkiff near the present city and at his grave was placed a 
cedar cross, hewn square and about twelve feet high. A num- 
ber of Indians were afterward buried at the same place and 
among them the chief Kettle and his wife, who both died some 
eighteen years after Dubuque. 

One of the most exciting incidents connected with the early 
histor}^ of Davenport and northeast Iowa was the murder of Col. 
George Davenport on Rock Island, July 4, 1845. The country 
on both sides of the river had been infested by a lawless band 
of freebooters, with their supposed headquarters at Nauvoo. 
They had organized themselves into bands and engaged in horse 
stealing, counterfeiting, burglary, robbery and murder. In some 
places men in official positions and of good standing in the 
community were associated with them. On the fatal July 4 
Col. Davenport's family were away at Stephenson attending a 
celebration, when three men attacked him in his house, one 
of whom shot him with a pistol through the thigh. They then 
bound him with strips of bark, blindfolded him and made 
a search for the key of his safe, but were unable to tind 
it. Returning to the wounded man they carried him upstairs 
where the safe was and compelled him to unlock it. The booty 
obtained was about $600 in money, a gold watch chain and 
seals, a double-barrelled gun and a few articles of minor 
value. Col. Davenport lived long enough to relate the incidents 
of the robbery. For several weeks no trace could be found of 
the murderers. Edward Bonney of Lee county, Iowa, under- 
took to ferret out their place of concealment. About the middle 
of August he went to Nauvoo where he obtained trace of them 
by representing himself as one of the gang. On Scptem- 



402 IOWA LEAVES. 

ber 8 he arrested a man named Fox at Centreville, Iowa, 
and committed him to jail there. On the 19th he arrested two 
others, Birch and John Long, at Sandusky, Ohio, and brought 
them to Rock Island by way of the lakes and Chicago. These 
three men were known in the west as leaders of gangs of des- 
peradoes, but operated under different names. Three others 
were also arrested as accessories, Richard Baxter and Aaron 
Long, near Galena, 111., and Granville Young at Nauvoo. 
Aaron was a brother of John Long. On October 6 all of 
them were indicted b}'' the grand juiy of Rock Island count}', 
except Fox, who had escaped from jail in Indiana on Sep- 
tember 17. On October 14 the two Longs were put upon 
trial, found guilty and sentenced to be hanged on the 27th of the 
same month. Birch, the greatest villain, turned state's evi- 
dence. Baxter was tried separately, convicted and sentenced to 
be hanged on November 18. John Long confessed all, but died a 
hardened wretch, without sign of repentance or fear of death. 
Col. George Davenport resided near the post; he supplied 
the troops with provisions and was also engaged in trading with 
the Indians. Most of his goods were brought from Mackinaw 
through Green Bay, thence up to Fox river to the "portage," 
where they were packed across to the Wisconsin river and 
carried down the Mississippi in what were called Mackinaw 
boats. The navigation of the upper Mississippi was confined 
to keel boats until 1823, when the first steamboat, the Vir- 
ginia from Wheeling, ascended with provisions to Prairie du 
Chien. This boat was four da3's in passing the rapids at Rock 
Island. After this, up to 1827, steamboats continued to ascend 
the upper Mississippi occasionally with troops and military 
stores. In this year Capt. James May, of the steamboat Sham- 
rock, made the first voyage with her from Pittsburg to Galena. 



IOWA LEAVES. 403 

This was the first general business trip ever made on the upper 
^lississippi by a steamboat. Capt. May continued as master of 
a steamboat on this part of the river until 1834. 

In May, 1854, the first railroad was built in Iowa at or near 
high-water mark on the bank of the Mississippi in the city of 
Davenport, and was completed to Iowa Cit}', a distance of about 
lifty-five miles, in Johnson county. The first locomotive in Iowa 
was landed at Davenport in July of the same year and was 
called the Antoine Le Claire. The road was then called the 
Mississippi & ^Missouri railroad. On January i, 1891, there 
were in Iowa over 30,000 miles of railroad. 

ON TO IOWA. 

"Trains of wagons crept the long road over — " 
" For Iowa " painted on each dusty cover; 
Scores of children, black-headed, red and white, 
The latter oftenest coming into sight, 
Looking from the wagons — a mixed-up mass — 
To see the country as they slowly pass. 
The wagon's rear end held the spinning-wheel; 
Oft its companion, too, the winding reel. 
But oftener still the rude split-bottomed chair, 
With or without rockers, was fastened there. 
The travelers were in fitting dress arrayed, 
Which by their own industrious hands were made; 
Father and sons in brown jean hunting shirts, 
The mothers and daughters in linsey skirts; 
Each having their allotted part to do, 
Driving the teams and gentle cattle too. 

Such were the men and such the women were 
Who came through trials and vexatious care 
To people up this splendid grassy plain 
And change it into fields of waving grain. 
Hopefully from their forest homes they went. 
Where they had toiled for comfort and content; 
Working earnestly many a weary day, 
Striving to clear the trees and brush away, 
Which formed a standing guard above the soil, 



404 IOWA LEAVES. 

Only to be subdued by hardest toil. 

Truly, 'tis seen, that they had chosen well 

In concluding that they'd no longer dwell 

In places where dame Nature must be wooed 

So long and wearily for so little good. 

In going forth a better lot to seek 

Where this same nature is a kindly freak. 

Had neatly cleared the rich and seemly land 

And left it waiting for the plowman's hand. 

Another favor unto him she'd granted. 

In broad, expansive meadows ready planted. 

Decked with such flowers, doubt it, you who can, 

As surpassed the glory of King Solomon. 

The circumstance which, more than any other, favored the 
early and rapid settlement of northeast and central Iowa was 
the abundance of timber. The presence of timber aided materi- 
ally in bringing about an early settlement and it was aided in 
two wa3's. First, the country in this section had of course 
to depend on emigration from the older settled states of the 
east for its population, and especially Ohio and Indiana. These 
states originally were almost covered with dense forests and 
farms were made by clearing off certain portions of the timber. 
Almost every farm there, after it became thoroughly improved^ 
still retained a certain tract of timber commonly known as "the 
woods." The woods is generally regarded as the most impor- 
tant part of the farm and the average farmer regarded it as 
indispensable. When he emigrated west the greatest objection 
to the Iowa country was the scarcity of timber and he did not 
suppose that it would be possible to open up a farm on the 
bleak prairie. To live in a region devoid of the familiar sight 
of timber seemed unendurable and the average Ohio and 
Indiana emigrant could not endure the idea of founding a home 
far away from the familiar sight of forest trees. Then again, 
the idea entertained b}' the early emigrants to northwest Iowa 



IOWA LEAVES. 405 

that timber was a necessit}' was not simply theoretical and 
ethical. The early settler had to have a house to live in, fuel 
for cooking and heating purposes and fences to inclose his 
claim. At that time there were no railroads whereby lumber 
could be transported from the prairies. No coal mines had yet 
been opened and few, if any, had been discovered. Timber 
was an absolute necessit}', without which personal existence as 
well as material improvement was an impossibility. 

As before remarked, there are two reasons why the first 
settlers of northeast and central Iowa refused to locate at a 
distance from the timber and why the timbered region border- 
ing on the Des Moines, Mississippi and Skunk rivers became 
densely populated, while the more fertile and more easily cul- 
tivated prairies remained for many years unclaimed. The 
pioneers were in the main descendants of those hardy back- 
woodsmen who conquered the dense forests of Indiana, Ohio 
and the regions farther east. When farms were opened up in 
those countries a large belt of timber was invariably reserved, 
from which the farmer could draw his supply of logs for lumber 
and fence rails and fuel for cooking and heating purposes. 
Even at the present day a farm without its patch of timber is 
exceedingly rare in those countries. 

Having from their youth been accustomed to timber, 
the emigrants from these timbered regions of the east would 
have ever felt lonesome and solitary deprived of the familiar 
sight of the tall forest trees and shut off from the familiar 
sound of the wind passing through the branches of the vener- 
able oaks. 

In this day of railroads, herd laws, cheap lumber and cheap 
fuel, it is easy enough to open a farm and build up a comfort- 
able home away out on the prairies, far from the sight of 



406 IOWA LEAVES. 

timber. But not so under the circumstances surrounding the 
first settlers. There was no way of shipping lumber from the 
markets of the east, coal mines were unknown and before a 
parcel of land could be cultivated it was necessary to fence it. 
In order to settle the prairie countries it was necessary to have 
railroads, and in order to have railroads it was necessary that 
at least a portion of the country should be settled. Hence the 
most important resource in the development of northeast 
Iowa was the belts of timber which skirted the streams and 
the first settlers who hewed out homes in the timber, while at 
present not the most enterprising and progressive, were never- 
theless an essential factor in the solution of the problem. From 
either side of the INIississippi, Des Moines, Iowa and Skunk 
rivers, flowing in a southwestern and southeastern direction, are 
a number of small streams or creeks. The uniform width of 
the belt of timber along the Des Moines was originally about 
five miles wide and where these smaller streams empty into the 
river the timber extends much farther out. These places were 
called "points" and on these the first settlements were made; 
here were the beginnings of civilization; here began to operate 
the forces which have made the wilderness a fruitful place and 
caused the desert to blossom as the rose. 

Much of this primeval forest has been removed; part of it 
was economically manufactured into lumber which entered into 
the construction of the early dwelling-houses, many of which 
still remain; much of it has been ruthlessly and recklessly 
destroyed, consequently attention was early given to the cult- 
ure of artificial groves. Among the most abundant of all trees 
originally found was the black walnut, so highly prized in all 
countries for manufacturing purposes. Timber of this kind 
was very plentiful and of good quality originally, but the 



IOWA LEAVES. 407 

high price paid for this kind of timber presented itself as a 
temptation to destroy it which the people could not resist. 
The best timber in the state is found in northeast and central 
Iowa. Detached groves, both natural and artificial, are found 
at many places throughout these regions, which are not only 
ornamental but vary the monotony of the prairie and are like- 
wise very useful, having an important bearing on the climate. 

DES MOINES, THE METROPOLIS OF IOWA 
AND CAPITAL CITY. 

Where Des Moines river with unceasing roll 

Passes through fertile fields by hidden beds of coal, 

Where she receives Raccoon's bright waves upon her breast — 

Two of the loveliest streams in all the west — 

There lies a spot, with great high-sounding name, 

Known well to history and the pride of Iowa fame. 

The followinof interestins: facts are taken from a "History 
of Polk County, Iowa," published in 1880: 

The residence of the various Indian tribes in the vicinity 
of Des Moines dates from May i, 1843, at which time, accord- 
ing to the stipulation of the treaty of 1842, they removed west 
of a line running north and south through the town of Red 
Rock in Marion county. As before stated, the government, 
according to the provision of the various treaties, paid to the 
Indians annually quite a sum of money. The payments were 
made in silver coins, put up in boxes containing 500 dollars 
each and passed into the hands of Keokuk for distribution. 
The several traders received each his quota, according to the 
several demands against the tribes admitted by Keokuk, which 
invariably consumed the far greater portion of the amount 
received; the remainder was turned over to the chief and 
distributed among the respective bands. Great complaints 



408 IOWA LEAVES. 

were made of these allowances to the traders on the ground 
of exorbitant prices charged on the goods actually furnished 
and it was alleged that some of these accounts were spurious. 
In confirmation of this charge over and above the character of 
the items exhibited in these counts an affidavit was filed with 
Gov. Lucas (the first governor of Iowa) by an individual to 
whom the governor gave credence, setting forth that Keokuk 
had proposed to the maker of the affidavit to prefer a fictitious 
account against the tribe for the sum of $10,000 and he would 
admit its correctness and, when paid, the money should be 
divided among themselves, share and share alike. To swell 
the trader's bills items were introduced of a character that 
should brand fraud upon their face, such as a large number of 
blanket coats, articles which the Indians never used, and 
telescopes, of the use of which they had no knowledge. This 
showed the reckless manner in which these bills were swollen to 
the exorbitant amounts complained of, in which Keokuk was 
openly charged with being in league with the traders to defraud 
the Indians. 

The money which actually came into the possession of the 
Indians was soon squandered by them and the position of 
Indian trader, conferred by appointment, was a very lucrative 
one. During the period when the Indians resided in the 
vicinity of Des Moines, from May i, 1843, to October 11, 1845, 
there were two firms which were allowed to trade with them. 
Phelps & Co. were from Illinois; they were traders in furs and 
were permitted to carry on their business with the Indians. 
G. W. & W. G. Ewing were the regularly authorized Indian 
traders and arrived on May 3, 1843. Their business career 
here was eminently successful and they accumulated quite a 
little fortune during their three years' harvest. Their place of 



IOWA LEAVES. 409 

business was on the east side of the river, near where the mag- 
niticent capitol building stands to-day; they erected a log build- 
ing not far from Major Beach, the Indian agent, which was 
probably the first one erected in Polk county. 

At this time the Sacs and Foxes numbered about 2,300 
and it is not possible that Keokuk could have carried on an 
organized system of theft without the fact becoming apparent 
to all. As it was, however. Gov. Lucas thought best to change 
the manner in which the annual payments were made. The 
matter was referred to the Indian bureau and the mode was 
changed so that the payments were made to heads of families. 
This method of payment did not suit the traders and after 
a short trial the old plan was again adopted. That the Indians, 
then as now, were the victims of sharp practice cannot be 
doubted, but the fact can be attributed to the superior tact and 
the unscrupulous character of many of the traders. This 
furnishes a inore probable explanation and is more in accord 
with the character of Keokuk, as known by his intimate friends 
still living, than to attribute these swindling operations to a 
conspiracy in which the illustrious chief was the leading actor. 

Among the early settlers of Iowa the names of Keokuk 
and Wapello are the most noted and familiar. These two illus- 
trious chiefs live not only in the recollections of these early 
settlers, but in the permanent history of our common country. 
To the school-boy who has frequently read of these Indians 
the fact that they once roved around on the very ground where 
their feet tread, and that in their hunting excursions these In- 
dians crossed the same prairies where they now gather the 
yellow-eared corn, will give to these sketches intense interest, 
while the early settlers who talked with Wapello and Keokuk, 
ate with them, hunted with them and fished with them, cannot 



410 IOWA LEAVES. 

fail to find in these leaves something fascinating, as they are 
thus led back over half a century to live over again the 
days of other years and witness again the scenes of early days, 
when the tall prairie grass waved in the autumn breeze and 
the country, like themselves, was younger and fresher than now. 
Keokuk came first into prominence among the whites at the 
breaking out of the second war with England, commonly known 
as the w?.r of 1812. Most of the Indians at that time espoused 
the cause of the English, but Keokuk at the head of a large 
number of the Sacs and Foxes remained faithful to the Amer- 
icans. In 1828, Keokuk, in accordance with the terms of a 
treaty, crossed the Mississippi river with his tribe and estab- 
lished himself on the Iowa river. Here he remained in peace 
and his tribe flourished till the breaking out of the Black Hawk 
war in 1832. He seemed to have a much more intelligent in- 
sight into the great national questions which were raised dur- 
ing these early difficulties as well as more thorough apprecia- 
tion of the resources of the national government. He opposed 
the Black Hawk war and seemed to forecast the great disaster 
which thereby befell his tribe. Although many of his warriors 
deserted him and followed Black Hawk in his reckless cam- 
paign across the Mississippi, Keokuk prevailed upon a major- 
ity of his ti'ibe to remain at home. When the news reached 
Keokuk that Black Hawk's warriors had gained a victory over 
Stillman''s forces in Ogle county, 111., the war spirit broke 
out among his followers like lire in the dry prairie grass. A 
war dance was held and the chief himself took part in it. He 
seemed for a while to move in sN'mpathy witli the rising storm, 
and at the conclusion of a war dance he called a council to pre- 
pare for war. In a work entitled "Annals of Iowa," published ' 
in 1865, there is reported the substance of a speech made by 



JOn-A LEAVES. 411 

Keokuk on the oecasion. We quote: ''I am your chief and it 
is ni}' duty to lead you to battle. If after fully considering the 
matter you are determined to go on the warpath I will lead you 
on one condition: that before we go we kill all our old men and 
our wives and our children, to save them from a lingering death 
by starvation and that every one of you determine to leave your 
bones on the other side of the Mississippi river." This was a 
strong and truthful picture of the prospect before them and was 
presented in such a forcible light that it caused them to abandon 
their rash undertaking. 

Keokuk was ever recognized as the head of the Sac and 
Fox nation bv the United States government. 

It is said that a bitter feud existed in the tribe during the 
time that Keokuk lived near Des ]Moines between Keokuk's 
band and the Black Hawk band. Their distrust and hatred 
were smothered in their common intercourse when sober, but 
when their blood was tired with whisky it sometimes assumed a 
tragic feature among the leaders of the respective bands. 

In person Keokuk was of commanding appearance. He 
was tall, straight as an arrow and of very graceful mien. These 
personal characteristics together with his native fervor and 
ready command of language gave him great power over his 
people as a speaker; If as a man of energy and courage he 
gained the respect and obedience of his tribe, it was more espe- 
cially as an orator that he was able to wield his people in the 
times of great excitement and in a measure shape their policy in 
dealing with the white man. As an orator rather than as a 
warrior has Keokuk's claim to greatness been founded. 

The event in the life of Keokuk which more than any other 
gave him a national reputation was his trip to Washington City. 
He in company with Black Hawk, Powesheik, Kish-ke-kosh and 



412 IOWA LEAVES. 

some fifteen other chiefs, under the escort of Gen. J. M. Street, 
visited AVa^hington City and different parts of the east in 1837. 
The party descended the Mississippi to the mouth of the Ohio 
by steamer and thence up the latter to WheeHng, where they 
took stage across the mountains. When the party arrived in 
Washington, at the request of some of the government officials 
a council was held with some chiefs of the Sioux then present, 
as the Sacs and Foxes were waging a perpetual war with the 
Sioux nation. 

The council was held in the hall of representatives. To 
the great indignation of the Sioux, Kish-ke-kosh appeared 
dressed in a buffalo hide which he had taken in war from a 
Sioux chief and took his position in one of the large windows, 
with the mane and horns of the buffalo as a sort of head-dress 
and the tail trailing on the floor. The Sioux complained 
to the officials, claiming that this was an insult to them, but 
they were informed that the Sacs and Foxes had a right to 
appear in any kind of costume they chose to wear. 

The first speech was made by a Sioux, who complained 
bitterly of the wrongs they had suffered and how they had 
been driven from their homes by the Sacs and Foxes, their 
warriors killed and their villages burned. Then followed 
Keokuk, the great orator of his tribe, who replied at some 
length, an interpreter repeating the speech after him. There 
were those present who had heard Webster, Calhoun, Clay and 
Benton in the same hall and they declared that for the manner 
of delivery, for native eloquence, impassioned expression of 
countenance, the chief surpassed them all ; and this while they 
could not understand his words, save as they were repeated by 
the interpreter. From Washington they went to New York, 
where they were shown no little attention and Gen. Street 



70TT^4 LEAVES. 413 

attempted to show them the city on foot. The people, in their 
anxiety to see Keokuk and Black Hawk, crowded them beyond 
the point of endurance and in order to avoid the throng they 
were compelled to make their escape through a store building 
and reached their hotel through the back alleys and less fre- 
quented streets. At Boston they were met at the depot by a 
delegation of leading citizens and conveyed in carriages to the 
hotel. The next day they were taken in open carriages and, 
with a guard of honor on foot, they were shown the whole cit}'. 
During their stay in Boston they were the guests of the great 
American orator, Edward Everett, who made a banquet for 
them. When the Indians returned and were asked about New 
York they onl}' expressed their disgust. Boston was the only 
cit}' in the United States in their estimation. 

The Indians were soon destined to create no further dis- 
turbance upon the soil of Iowa, which the white man had 
marked for his own. In accordance with the stipulations of 
sacred treaties, and likewise agreeably to the demands of the 
times, the allotted time had now come for the red man to move 
westward again on his roving mission and add one more proof 
that his race is fast passing away and must eventually dis- 
appear before the restless march of the Anglo-Saxon, as did 
the traditionary Mound Builder give place to the predatory red 
man of later times. 

And did the dust 
Of these fair sohtudes once stir with hfe 
And burn with passion? Let the mighty mounds 
That overlook the rivers, or that rise 
In the dim fofests crowded with oUl oaks 
A nswer. A race that has long passed away 
Built them. The red man came — 
The roaming hunter tribes, warlike and fierce — 
And the Mound Builders vanished from the earth. 
The solitude of centuries untold 



414 IOWA LEAVES. 

Has settled where they dwelt. The prairie wolf 
Howls in their meadows and his fresh-dug den 
Yawns by my path. The gopher mines the ground 
Where stood their swarming cities. All is gone — 
All save the piles of earth tnat hold their bones — 
The platforms where they worshiped unknown gods. 

The Indian title to the lands now included in the bounds 
of central Iowa expired at midnight of October ii, 1845. Mr. 
H. B. Turrell, in his brief work entitled, "Historical Reminis- 
cences of Des Moines," says: 

"This period was implacently awaited by those who were 
already here, for after that time each one was at liberty to 
make a claim of 320 acres, which could be held until the gov- 
ernment brought the lands into market and then purchased 
under such regulations as was the custom in 1857. 

"Long before the expiration of the Indian title the settlers 
around the fort had made arrangements with each other and 
the most valuable tracts were already considered claims. Some 
claims were even measured and staked off, but this was of no 
validity and done onh' for convenience or to facilitate such sub- 
sequent survey as was absolutely necessary to establish and 
identify it. 

" So eager were the settlers, who had previously remained 
only at the sufferance of the general government, to have per- 
manent homes near the fort that during the forepart of the 
night preceding October 1 1 men were stationed in all direc- 
tions around, with instructions to immediatelv beo:in the 
measurement of claims as soon as midnight arrived. 

" Precisely at midnight the loud report of a musket fired 
from the agency house announced that the empire of the red 
man had ended forever and that of his master race had begun. 
Answering reports rang sharpl}' on the night air in quick sue- 



IOWA LEAVES. 415 

cession from every hill-top and every valley, till the signal was 
conveyed for miles around and all understood that civilization 
had now commenced her reign in central Iowa. 

-The moon was slowly sinking in the west and its beams 
afforded a feeble and uncertain light for the measurement of 
claims in which so many were engaged. 'Ere long the land- 
scape was enshrouded in darkness, save the wild and fitful glar- 
ing of the torches carried by the claim-makers. Before the 
night had entirely worn away the rough surveys were finished 
and the Indan lands had found new tenants. 

"Throughout the country thousands of acres were laid off 
in claims before dawn. Settlers rushed in by hundreds and 
the regions, lately so tranquil and silent, felt the impulse of the 
change and became vocal with sounds of industry and enterprise. 
"A reserve of a square mile around the fort was main- 
tained so long as Ft. Des Moines remained a military post. 
Part of the troops were removed in the autumn of 1845, the 
remainder continued until June of the ensuing year. One hun- 
dred and sixty acres of this reserve, including all the buildings 
belonging to the fort, were afterward ceded by congress to 
Polk county and for several years these buildings furnished the 
county with various public offices." 

The settlements in central Iowa properly began in October, 
1845, as prior to that time no settlements were possible, except 
by the special permit of the general government and in the 
interests of the garrison of the fort. The history of the county 
begins, however, over three years earlier, when the fort was 
est^ablished at the Raccoon Fork and when the first white 
persons located there, many of whom afterward became perma- 
nent settlers of central Iowa. There is no doubt but that the 
location of the fort at the Raccoon Fork settled the destiny 



416 IOWA LEAVES. 

of the future capital city and did much to hasten the de- 
velopment of the material resources of the surrounding 
country. 

On May 9, 1843, the little steamer lone arrived at the 
place where the city of Des Moines now stands with a detach- 
ment of troops on board, who immediately on their landing com- 
menced the work of constructing the various buildings which 
were denominated the fort. The lone was the first steamboat 
that had ever ventured to disturb the clear water of the Des 
Moines so far from its mouth. Having disembarked the troops 
with their accoutrements, baggage and the military stores which 
composed her lading, she departed. Capt. Allen, the com- 
mandant of the future fort, returned with her to make arrange- 
ments for bringing on the rest of the troops. In a month or 
two they arrived to join their comrades, a mere corporal's 
guard which Capt. Allen had left, and all immediately engaged 
heartily in building their barracks. 

While thus employed they encamped along the bank of 
the river above what is now Court avenue. Their labors were 
severe and the}^ had many privations to undergo, but a soldier's 
disposition grows very facile and readily accommodates itself to 
every change of circumstance. Their gay songs and loud 
laughter at evening mingled with the dashings of the river and 
the beatings of the morning drum, or the loud bugle notes 
awakened to new responses the echoes of surrounding hills and 
gave the western breezes their first lessons in our national 
melodies. The balmy air was invigorating and healthful, the 
beauties of summer adorned the forests and prairies, the 
enchantments were profusely spread around them, all combining 
to render their situation pleasing and attractive, so far as 
natural charms could do so. 



IOWA LEAVES. 417 

The buildings which composed the fort were scattered 
along the banks of the Des Moines river and at various points 
through what is now the business part of the town. They 
consisted of barracks for the men and stables for the horses 
and were some twenty or twenty-five in number, a part of 
of which remained until 1857. 

These buildings were double log cabins, such as the early 
settlers often built and most of our readers have heard of; in 
another sense they were different from the typical double log 
cabin in that they were designed for a place of defense against 
any possible hostile incursion of the Indians, The double log 
cabin, frequently found in the early settlements, was two single 
cabins, built with their gables facing each other, with a 
space between, equal in size to the ground covered by one of 
the cabins. When the roof was put on it was extended across 
the open space between, thus forming a court which was useful 
for storing away certain furniture needed only on extraordinary 
occasions, farming implements, etc.; in addition to this it 
afforded a good and convenient shelter for the domestic 
animals in case of severe storms. The quarters of the garrison 
at the fort were houses similar to the double log cabin just 
described, with the exception that the side of the building 
facing outward was built up solid with logs, instead of having 
an open court, and at regular intervals in that side were small 
windows or loopholes through which the soldiers could dis- 
charge their pieces in case of as Indian attack. 

As remarked by Mr. Turrell, there were some twenty or 
twenty-five of these buildings and, as they were located along 
the Des Moines river to the point and then up Coon river for a 
distance, the ground upon which they were built extended in 
the shape of an acute-angled triangle with the apex at Coon 



418 IOWA LEAVES. 

Point. A towering flag-staff stood about midway between the 
sides of the triangle, the location being not far from where the 
principal part of the city now stands. This flag-staff was cut 
down soon after the soldiers departed, the destruction of which 
was a foolish and unnecessary act. If proper measures had 
been taken to preserve that flag-staff it might still be standing 
where the patriotic soldiers flrst planted it; such a relic of the 
first days of. central Iowa, were it now in existence, would be of 
incalculable value, not only as a memento of early days but as 
a fixed point from which the exact situation of all the early 
buildings could be accurately and readily estimated. 

FT. DES MOINES. AS IT NOW IS. 

In the account aireaay given of Ft. Des Moines a toler- 
ably good idea can be formed of the place at the time the 
Indians were removed; with the exception of the soldiers' 
quarters and the establishment of Robert Kinzie, the govern- 
ment sutler, there were no improvements on the west side. 
The improvements on the east side consisted of the buildings 
occupied by the Indian agents, Indian traders and fur dealers. 
According to that account there could not have been more 
than twenty-five or thirty log buildings all told and not exceed- 
ing fifteen or twenty inhabitants, excluding the soldiers. In 
speaking of this matter Mr. Turrell says: 

"The foregoing enumeration includes very nearly all of the 
residents who settled near the fort in 1843, except the govern- 
ment troops. Their number continued about the same until 
the Indian title expired, when emigrants poured in like a flood." 

A reserve of a square around the fort was maintained so 
long as Ft. Des Moines continued a military post. Part of 
the troops were removed in the autumn of 1845, the remainder 



IOWA LEAVES. 419 

continued till June of the ensuing year. It will be impossible, 
and it would not be practicable were it possible, to give a full 
list of the persons who settled at Des Moines during the first 
few 3'ears, neither will it be practicable to note definitely all the 
improvements which were made from 1846 to 1850, when the 
pioneer days ended in northeast and central Iowa. 

According to Nicollet the name Des Moines, which has 
been attached to the largest river, one of the first counties 
organized and the capital of the state, is a corruption of an In- 
dian word. signifying "at the road." He remarks: "But in the 
latter times the inhabitants associated this name (7^ /vers des 
Moiris) with that of the Trappist monks (^JMoine de la Trappe\ 
who resided on the Indian mounds of the American bottom. It 
Avas then concluded that the true reading of the Rivers des 
Moins was Rivere Des Aloines or river of the monks, by which 
name it is designated on all maps." From an article written 
by Judge Negus of Fairfield, published in the "Annals of Iowa" 
some twenty years ago, entitled "The River of the Mounds," we 
take the following extracts: 

"Nearly every state has some one particular river which 
especially attracts the attention of its citizens, on which their 
minds delight to dwell, about which they bestow their praise. 

"Iowa has the beautiful river Des Moines, on which her cit- 
izens delight to bestow their eulogies. More has been done, 
said and thought about this river than all the other rivers in the 
state. In beauty of native scenery, in productiveness of soil, in 
mineral wealth and in many things that attract attention and 
add to the comfort of man the valley of the Des Moines is not 
surpassed by any locality in the world. 

"The banks of this great watercourse and the surround- 
ing country bear the marks of having been the home of a 



420 IOWA LEAVES. 

numerous people centuries in the past and that this people were 
possessed of many of the arts of civilized life. But of what race 
of people they were and of the acts and scenes which have taken 
place in this beautiful valley we may imagine but probably never 
know. Of their habits and customs they have left some 
marks; but still there is wrapped around these evidences of 
their doings a mystery that is hard to solve." 

With this brief sketch of the early settlements of Des 
Moines and central Iowa we now pass to the metropolis and 
capital city as she stands to-day on the banks of the same peace- 
ful Des Moines where dwelt the red race centuries ago. 

In 1856 Des Moines was quite a place and its growth from 
that time has been so rapid that in order to give even a synop- 
sis of the improvements made during that period would fill a 
book of ordinary size; therefore, we give below a brief but in- 
teresting sketch of the city of to-day and how she appears to the 
visitor of 1890. 

TJIE PRIDE OF IOWA, 

The growth of this city has been of that nature that makes 
it in the first place a healthy one — one that goes to make up a 
solid city in every respect. The private buildings that have 
been erected are of a permanent and substantial character, while 
those of a public nature are far in advance of those of previous 
3'ears, so far as the workmanship, material and stability is con- 
cerned, the city having discarded the rapidly decaying wood 
block pavement and in its stead adopted what should have been 
done years ago, the substantial brick pavement, which will stand 
the hard test to which the streets are subjected, and, in addition 
to this, keep the money that is paid out from year to year for 
this improvement at home and furnish employment to scores of 
working-men. 



IOWA LEAVES. 



421 



As a city of homes Des Moines has alwa^'s held a pre-em- 
inent position and as such is known far and wide, and in keep- 
ing with the record of the last decade has erected the past year 




GRAND OPERA-HOUSE, DES MOINES. 



hundreds of elejrant residences and adorned them with beauti- 
ful lawns, etc. This has not been confined to any part of the 
city, but in all directions from the center they can be found by 



422 IOWA LEAVES. 

scores. Another prime factor in this part of the material 
growth of the capital city is the fact that fully nine-tenths of the 
private residences built are for the occupancy of their owners 
as homes, and they are at once convenient, tasteful and comfort- 
able. . There is probably not another city in the Union for its 
size that contains so few so-styled tenement blocks as Des 
Moines, but it is rather the rule that the tenant has a house and 
lot to himself and family, a boon not vouchsafed to the tenement 
class in many cities. 

Notwithstanding the immense number of new houses 
erected during the year just passed, there has been more than 
a corresponding increase in population, for it is a well-known 
fact that it is next to impossible to rent a house such as would 
be wanted by a family of even moderate means. 

The year of 1890 has certainly been a most propitious one 
for the capital city in the way of both private and public im- 
provements and we shall only enumerate a few of the more 
prominent features brought before us by a personal visit and 
careful research about the city not long since. Besides the 
erection and improvement of 580 buildings for private use at a 
cost of $2,365,450 there have been a number of business blocks 
erected and large outlays of money for additions to others. 
The city has done a considerable amount of brick paving, curb- 
ing, sewering, etc., the total of which amounts to the neat sum 
of $172,590.51; but this sum is an insignificant one when com- 
pared with the amount expended by the Electric Street Car 
Company, which foots up $348,875.41. The railroads have 
also contributed their mite in the way of improvements to the 
amount of $128,000, while the gas and electric light and power 
companies have expended no less than $250,000 in the exten- 
sion of lines, new buildings, etc. 



IOWA LEAVES. 423 

The water company has expended $90,000; the telephone 
and telegraph companies, $61,700; State Agricultural Society 
and exhibitors, $27,000, and the zoological garden $12,000. 
Among the building improvements we mention the Essex, the 
Marqu'ette Electric Street Railway power house, the Des 
Moines Edison Company's new plant, the Des Moines Brick 
Manufacturing Company's new plant, the Goode, Turner, Ken- 
nedy, Percival & Hatton, Boyd and Clapp blocks. 

The mentioning of the above improvements does not by 
any means complete the list, even in a rough way, of the 
expenditures of the money that has gone to the building up of 
the city during the past year. 

Des Moines is a city of beautiful churches and in these she 
takes great pride; therefore, thousands of dollars have been 
spent for the erection of these buildings, viz.. Central Church 
of Christ, University Place chapel. Sixth Presbyterian, St. 
John's Lutheran and parsonage, St. Ambrose, Church of the 
Visitation, Highland Park Presbyterian, Young Men's Christian 
Association building and others, amounting to $325,000 and 
all completed during the year of 1890. Another item that 
helps to swell the list is that of colleges and schools and in 
this line a great amount of money has been expended. 

The principal improvements under this head have been 
made by Highland Park College, Drake University, the dis- 
tricts of east and west Des Moines, but new school edifices have 
also been erected within the independent districts of Greenwood 
park. Park avenue. Lake park. North Des Moines and Capital 
park, these in the aggregate footing up over $328,000. In 
speaking of the schools and the money being expended in the 
capital city in adding to and building up their educational insti- 
tutions, they are doing that which is making Des Moines widely 



424 



IOWA LEAVES. 



known as an educational center and proving one of the greatest 
incentives in adding to their rapidly-growing population by 
bringing people from far and near who have children to educate. 




SAVERY HOUSE, WEST LOCUST, CORNER FOURTH STREET. 

This, added to the wide field presented for profitable invest- 
ment, makes the capital city all the more desirable for a perma- 
nent residence. 

MANUFACTURING AND NEW ENTERPRISES. 

In the way of new industrial enterprises the past twelve 
months may be said to have been fruitful ones for this city, for 



IOWA LEAVES. 425 

an exceedingly large number of accessions have been made to 
the already long list of manufactories, while those previously 
established have many of them been enlarged by the addition 
of machinery and the employment of a greater number of work- 
men; Des Moines has yet to learn of a single one that has 
fallen behind the previous year in the amount of output or 
dollars' worth of business done. In fact, there has been an 
increase of over $2,000,000 in production and sales over the 
previous year, which is a showing of which any city might be 
proud. The many advantages of the capital city are becoming 
more widely known each year and as they become better 
known are bringing additions to their manufactories in the 
shape of new enterprises, more capital from abroad, rriore 
workmen, etc. 

While some of the enterprises launched during the past 
3'ear are not mammoth concerns, they are started under such 
circumstances that they are bound to grow from year to year, 
which is far preferable to embarking too largely and then hav- 
ing to shorten sail in order to weather the breeze, which is only 
too often the case, while in many instances the capital for 
the formation of these new industries has been furnished by 
their own citizens. The following additions have been made to 
the city's industrial interests since January i, 1880: 

Bales Automatic Car Coupler Company. 
Springer Automatic Car Coupler Company. 
Automatic Railway Signal Company. 
Merchants' Barb Wire Company. 
Capital City Oatmeal Company. 
Interstate Lock, Brick & Paving Company. 
Crabb Iron F'ence Company. 
Central Brick & Tile Company. 
Iowa Trunk & Bag Manufacturing Company. 
Des Moines Glove Manufacturing Company. 



426 IOWA LEAVES. 

Pearsall-Lyman Company — extracts, etc. 

Bachman's Yeast Manufacturing Company. 

National Novelty Company. 

Iowa Straw & Felt Hat Factory. 

Des Moines Water Power Electric Company. 

Des Moines Novelty Company. 

Des Moines Sanitary & Cremation Company. 

Des Moines Brick Manufacturing Company. 

Bromley Jewelry Manufacturing Company. 

Henshaw & Clark— agricultural steam boilers. 

Des Moines Yeast Manufacturing Company. 

Daisy Washing Machine Company. 

Iowa Rubber Stamp & Stencil Company. 

Alliance Binder Twine Company. 

Iowa Fruit Preserving Works. 

Capital City Fuel Gas Company. 

Des Moines Knitting Factory. 

United States Stock Feed Company. 

The Kratzer Carriage Company. 

Economic Gas Tip Company. 

William's Shirt Manufacturing Company, 

The Capilline Company. 

Dealers' Manufacturing & Jobbing Company. 

Morgan Well Auger Company. 

Des Moines Box Works. 

Ring, Mop & Wringer Company. 

Bristol Manufacturing Company. 

Hess Storage Battery Company. 

Begiven & Buttell Piano Factory. 

Iowa Machine, Novelty & Brass Works. 

Des Moines Beet Sugar & Preserving Company. 

Field Manufacturing Company. 

Early Bird Phosphate Company. 

Hawk-eye Wire & Carpet Stretcher Company. 

Standard Coal Company. 

Hoove Fence Loom Company. 

Springer Buckle Company. 

Railway Car Automatic Fire Extinguishing Company. 

In addition to these there are three or four others that are 
just completing their organization, but who have not yet re- 
corded their articles of corporation. 



IOWA LEAVES. 427 

Heretofore, in order to do brick paving, the city has been 
obhged to procure the material in other markets, but during 
the past season two new plants — one of them the largest in the 
west — have been erected and put in operation. These are the 
Des Moines Brick Manufacturing Company and Central Brick 
& Tile Company plants, the first calling for an expenditure of 
$100,000 and the latter of $20,000. In addition to these the 
Merrill Brick Company and the Iowa Pipe & Tile Company 
are now turning out paving brick. No longer will the city be 
obliged to go away from home for material. The largest 
increase in manufacturing in any one line during the past year 
has been in pork-packing, which shows an increase of over 
$500,000. The other more notable lines were confectionery, 
brick, linseed oil, proprietary medicines, soap, furniture and 
woolen goods. 

THE JOBBING TRADE. 

The wholesale trade of the capital city was never on a 
more substantial footing than at the present time and a larger 
volume of business has been transacted than ever before — 
$4,000,000 more — while the increase has been more marked 
in some lines than in others. There is hardly a single branch 
of the jobbing trade that has not made a great advance in 
volume the past season. The wholesale firms are becoming 
more aggressive each year and pushing out farther in pursuit 
of trade and they are meeting with deserved success. Some 
of our large institutions now cover, with their traveling men, 
fully half of the states in the Union and are adding to tliis each 
successive 3'ear. Every year during the past decade has seen 
additions to the army of traveling men employed by the home 
houses of the capital city and last year was no exception to the 
rule, for there was quite an increase made by some of the old 



428 IOWA LEAVES. 

houses, while the new ones added their quota to the already 
large number. 

A large dry goods house and another oil tank company 
were added to the jobbing interests of the city during the 
spring and met with a much larger business than was expected. 
Present appearances would indicate the opening up of several 
new lines during the coming 3xar and large additions will be 
made to those already represented. 

THE RETAIL TRADE. 

While the retail business of the city does not enter into the 
statistics as prepared by the commercial exchange, considerable 
attention has been paid to the subject while gathering up other 
branches of business. It is expressing it very mildl}^ when we 
say that it is in a healthy condition, for with one accord the 
retail merchants proclaim that prices have been well sustained, 
collections have been fully up to the average — many report 
them better — and the amount of business has grown very 
perceptibly. There have been less failures in the capital city 
during the year than heretofore and those few who have been 
so unfortunate have been of that class whose suspension involved 
such small amounts as to receive hardly a passing notice. 

THE COAL TRADE. 

New mines have been operated and developed in the 
vicinity of the capital city with excellent profits, new houses 
have been built for the miners and improvements have been 
made to the amount of over $100,000. 

THE GRAIN BUSINESS. 

Last year Iowa was blessed with the most bountiful crop 
of grain ever known and other states enjo3'ed like blessings to 



IOWA LEAVES. 



429 



a great degree, causing prices to drop so low that in tlie aggre- 
gate the money value of their crops was less than in several 
previous years and the grain firms, while handling thousands of 
bushels more grain, did but a very small percentage more of 
business than in 1888. The past year, while production has 




CALLAHAN COLLEGE, WEST PLEASANT, CORNER ELEVENTH STREET, 

DES MOINES. 

not been so abundant, values have advanced and a larger 
increase is shown in the volume of business transacted at this 
point. The increase this year is $185,000 on a moderate crop 
as compared with $25,000 increase last year with an immense 
production. 



430 IOWA LEAVES. 

STOCK YARDS BUSINESS. 

The Union Stock Yards, which were estabHshed at the 
capital city some months ago, have had an increase of $328,980 
over the year 1889. 

THE INSURANCE BUSINESS. 

As a general thing the companies engaged in this business 
in the capital city confine their risks to Iowa business and this 
is appreciated by our state people who place their insurance 
with them, and so, almost without exception, the home compa- 
nies report a material increase during the year in the amount 
of premiums received, the increase for the fire companies alone 
showing $109,011. The life companies of the city are growing 
right along from year to year and they have received $110,116 
more in premiums than in the preceding year. The one acci- 
dent compKiny has more than doubled its business and the live 
stock company shows a gain of $12,000 — about 20 per cent. 

THE FINANCIAL INTERESTS. 

Des Moines is unquestionably the financial center of the 
greatest state in the Union and her banks are recognized all 
over the country for their soundness and stability, having been, 
without exception, from the very start managed by careful, 
conservative financiars, who are adding to their surplus every 
year. Their capital has been taken by home citizens, which 
makes it free from the entanglements quite frequently brought 
about by the fluctuations on Wall street. 

During the recent troublesome times in many of our larger 
cities, these financial institutions have stood as firm as a rock, 
ready at all times to meet their engagements and not standing 
trembling and not knowing what a day may bring forth. Des 



IOWA LEAVES. 431 

Moines has been virtually built up within herself and the 
money that has gone to make her improvements has been fur- 
nished by home men and not by eastern capitalists. So she is 
not heavily indebted to the east, as are many of our western 
cities, which makes her credit both at home and abroad far 
ahead of many of her neighbors. While at the present time 
there is a ^reat scarcity in the money market all over the 
country, there is no city in the country that is as little affected 
by it as the city of Des Moines. During the past year two new 
financial institutions have been added, one a savings bank and 
the other a private bank. Besides these the many loan and 
trust companies are strong, well officered and doing a large and 
increasing business. 

THE ELECTRIC RAILWAY. 

If there is one thing more than another about the capital 
city on which she dotes it is her elegantly equipped street rail- 
way. There is no one thing connected with the city of Des 
Moines in which more energy and push have been displayed 
than that of the street railway during the past year. They 
have replaced the entire horse railway system that was in 
existence at the beginning of the year with electricity. This 
has not been accomplished by merely putting in electricity as 
a motive power, but the entire lines have been rebuilt with new 
steel rails, ties, etc., and equipped with new cars and in order 
to do this it was made necessary to erect a new power-house 
fully equipped with the latest improved machinery. In order 
to accomplish this one thing an outlay of no less than $ioo,- 
ooo was demanded; it has been done and a finer or more 
complete power-house is not found in the country. In the 
rebuilding of the old lines and new extensions almost $250,000 



432 IOWA LEAVES. 

was expended, which has given employment to a small army 
of men the entire season. While it would seem that the field 
was pretty well covered already, we are informed that the com- 
pany is not yet satisfied, nor will it be until Des Moines stands 
at the head of all cities of the country so far as the electric 
street railway is concerned; to this end it will expend a large 
sum of money the coming year. 

Among the principal additions made to the system the past 
season have been the "Zoo.," Grand avenue, IngersoU avenue, 
East Sixth street. Ninth street, cotton mill and fair ground 
lines. During the coming 3'ear the North Motor line will be 
changed to an electric line and the Sevastapool line built, with 
extensions on other lines whenever needed. A line to Easton 
place and Hyde Park is also among the probabilities. 

SUMMARY OF PUBLIC IMPROVEMENTS FOR 189O. 

551 Private Residences, etc $1,713,080.00 

18 Colleges, Schools, etc 328,1 18.00 

II Churches, etc 324,252.00 

Total private improvements $2,365,450.00 

Add general and public improvements 1,168,613.68 

Total for 1890 $3,534,663.68 

Total number pieces of mail received for i8go 10,262,499 

Total number of pieces of mail dispatched for 1890 12,067,966 

PEOPLE EMPLOYED AND WAGES PAID. 

The manufacturing industries, wholesale houses, insurance 
companies, clerks, accountants, mechanics, operators, type- 
writers show as to the numbers employed in the city as follows : 

Traveling Salesmen 453 

Accountants, Mechanics, etc. (male) 5-439 

Accountants, Typewriters, Operators, etc. (female) 1,017 

Total 6,909 



IOWA LEAVES. 433 

The salaries and wages paid these employes aggregated 
the past year the sum of $3,468,318. 

The total transfers of real estate for the year 1890 show an 
increase in the volume of transactions over those of the pre- 
vious year amounting to $10,881,118.79. 

REAL ESTATE MARKET. 

During the past year real estate in the capital city has 
more than held its own, while the volume of transfers, the 
exact figures of which are given in another column, slightly 
exceeds that of the previous year. The sales made have been 
decidedly healthier, with much larger profits than for years past. 

THE COMING YEAR BUILDING IMPROVEMENTS, ETC. 

Every indication goes to show that there will be a far 
greater amount of building done the coming season than for 
any like period in the history of Des Moines. This will not be 
confined merely to the erection of a great number of private 
dwellings, which will far outnumber those of the past year, 
but will embrace a large number of elegant and costly business 
blocks and factories, besides churches, educational buildings, 
etc. Already many plans and specifications have been made 
and adopted; some have progressed to that point where bids 
for construction have been asked for and in other cases con- 
tracts have already been let and materials secured. As a class 
the business blocks will be made larger, more ornate and far 
more costly than any heretofore erected in this or any other 
city of Iowa and will compare favorably with any in the west. 
There are several building projects being talked of at this time 
that have not yet reached that point where announcement can 
be made, but that they will soon take definite shape there is 
hardly a doubt. 



434 IOWA LEAVES. 

In the wa}' o. public improvements much will be accom- 
plished in the year to come, with the probability that it will 
exceed in amount that of any previous year. Now that brick 
pavement has been adopted for the streets, and it has been 
found that those of the home manufacture are of a superior 
kind, there is no reason why a vast amount of pavement should 
not be put in. It is very manifest that this will be done, for 
quite a number of streets have already been ordered paved and 
in some instances the contracts have been let, while the city 
council has already been petitioned for the paving of several 
others. The matter of curbing is not entirely dependent on 
the paving of streets, but where paving is ordered curbing has 
also to be done and in many instances curbing is ordered a year 
or more in advance. 

Des Moines is far ahead of many larger cities in the 
amount of sewering already done and there is no question 
that quite an amount will be put in this year. The contract for 
the erection of the magnificent new bridge over the Des Moines 
on Walnut street has been let by the board of public works and 
will add many thousands of dollars to the sum total of money 
expended by the city in the year to come. A new and com- 
modious house for the use of the fire and police departments, 
near the city hall, will be built at a cost of $10,000, 

THE EQUITABLE BUILDING. 

This magnificent structure, costing over $500,000, is to be 
erected on the northwest corner of Sixth avenue and Locust 
street by the Equitable Life Association of New York. The 
building will be 66 by 132 feet, with the main entrance on 
Sixth avenue and will be eight full stories high besides the 
basement and constructed solely for an office building, fireproof 



IOWA LEAVES. 



435 



and modern in every respect. The first two stories will be 
constructed of the beautiful buff granite of New Hampshire, 
while the remainder will be built of buff pressed brick with 

terra-cotta and stone 
trimmings. The base- 
ment, which will be 
twenty feet in height, 
will be devoted to safety 
deposit vaults, making 
the largest safety de- 
posit vaults in the 
country. The main 
entrance will be of an 
imposing character, 
with one of the finest, 
architecturally consid- 
ered, staircases to be 
found anywhere. The 
entrances, halls and 
vestibules will be fin- 

THE EQUITABLE BUILDING. j^j^^^^ -^^ whltC marblc 

and one powerful freight and three rapid passenger elevators 
will be provided. The offices will be in suites, furnished with 
vaults and modern conveniences and provided with fireplaces 
and mantels throughout. The building will be lighted by elec- 
tricity and an artesian well will supply the water. This build- 
ino- will be the finest in Iowa, except the capitol. 

o 

THE YOUNGERMAN BLOCK. 

An elegant eight-story building will be erected the coming 
summer by Mr. Conrad Youngerman on the corner of Fifth 




436 



IOWA LEAVEH. 



and Mulberry streets, calling for an outlay of $250,000. The 
architects completed the plans and specifications for this costly 
edifice some time ago, since which Mr. Youngerman has been 
busily engaged in letting contracts for material, etc., much of 
which has already been secured. The present block, occupying 
the site of the new structure, will be torn down April i and 




THE YOUNGERMAN BLOCK. 



work will be pushed as fast as a regiment of workmen can do 
it until its completion, which will not be later than September i 
next. This imposing block will be 66 by 133 feet in size, of 
pressed rustic brick with Bedford stone trimmings and will con- 
tain 200 office rooms and fifty-five vaults. Two rapid pas- 
senger elevators will be put in to meet the wants of the block's 
occupants. The main entrance to the edifice will be on Fifth 



JOTT'.l LEAVES. 437 

Street in the center of the block. It will be built in the most 
modern and approved st3'le and contain all the conveniences to 
be found in any first-class office block. 

A COLLEGE BUILDING. 

Although the Highland Park College Company expended 
over $214,000 during the past year in buildings, the attend- 
ance of students has so far exceeded their most sanguine 
expectations that they will be obliged to have more room at 
the beginning of the next school year and already they have 
decided to erect another large structure as a department build- 
ing; it will cost full}' $50,000 and may reach a much larger 
amount. 

ANOTHER COLLEGE BUILDING. 

A large four-story building, 64 by 86 feet in size, to be 
known as Science Hall, will be erected by Drake University 
the coming spring and completed in time for the opening of the 
next college 3'ear. It will be of pressed brick, stone founda- 
tion and ornamented with slate roof and will cost $40,000 
when ready for occupancy. The gymnasium will occupy 36 
by 60 feet and two stories in height and the remainder of the 
first two stories will be occupied by the Young Men's Chris- 
tian Association rooms, alumni parlors and bath-rooms. The 
third story will be used for a laboratory and lecture room, 
while the fourth floor will be devoted to a museum and natural 
science room. 

THE NEW SANITARIUM. 

The Des Moines Sanitarium Company have had the plans 
and specifications for the new sanitarium gotten up by Foster & 
Liebbe, architects, and are closing the contract for the erection 
of a large, ornate and substantial main building and wing. 



438 IOWA LEAVES. 

The main building will be 44 by 106 feet and four stories high, 
with a west wing 116 by 36 feet, three stories high. A large 
veranda sixteen feet in width will run around the entire fronts 
of both building and wing. The building is in close proximity 
to the famous Hyde Park mineral spring on the crest of a hill 
overlooking the state fair grounds and Factory flat, while to 
the west a fine view is obtained of a large portion of the 
city. 

Elegant bath-rooms will be provided in abundance and 
everything done to make comfortable those who choose to avail 
themselves of its advantages. The cost of the main building 
and wing will be $30,000 and in addition to this no less than 
$20,000 will be expended in beautifying the grounds, construct- 
ing an artificial lake, etc. 

THE EXPOSITION BUILDING. 

Mr. J. F. Tierney, who recently purchased the exposition 
building, has decided to make some extensive improvements 
and attractions this year. The reconstruction of this building 
calls for a modern four-story and basement block. In order to 
do this the entire front walls on Walnut and Eighth streets will 
be taken down to the foundation and new and elegant fronts 
built. The Walnut street front will be divided into six store 
rooms with large plate-glass windows, modern entrances, etc. 
The facilities for reaching the upper floors will be by means 
of broad staircases opening on Eighth street and passenger 
elevators reached from the same street, while freight eleva- 
tors will also be provided. The rooms all over the building 
will be provided with both hot and cold water. The recun. 
struction, as already mapped out, calls for an expenditure of 
$40,000. 



IOWA LEAVES. 139 

THE NEW UNION DEPOT. 

The Des Moines Union Railway Company have had plans 
prepared for a magniticent union depot facing on Cherry street 
and extending from Fifth to Ninth street. The structure is 
much like the union depot at Toledo, Ohio, and will cause an 
expenditure of $300,000, while the yard work and double-track 
steel bridge across the Des Moines will bring the outlay close, 
if not quite up, to $500,000. The main building will contain 
the passenger station proper, with the usual large waiting-rooms 
for ladies and gentlemen, the restaurant and dining halls, bag- 
gage and express rooms, etc., while the main offices of the Des 
Moines Union Railway Company and such other roads as 
require office room will be located on the second floor. The 
projected depot building will be one of the largest to be found 
west of Chicago, while for convenience of access to all parts of 
the city no better site could be selected. 

THE ROACH BLOCK. 

A few months since Mr. Thomas Roach of Ft. Worth, 
Tex., purchased the Foster block on Walnut street, together 
with the land lying north of the same, running to the alley. 
His faith in Des Moines has become so strong that he will erect 
a modern three-story and basement double-front store block, 
facing on Ninth street. 

The structure will be of beautiful design, in pressed brick 
with stone trimmings and work has commenced thereon. 

OTHER BUILDING IMPROVEMENTS. 

Lowry W. Goode of this city contemplates the expending 
of at least $200,000 in new buildings during the year 1891. In 
all probability another large business block will be erected and 



440 IOWA LEAVES. 

quite a number of cottages built at Central place, Bate's addi- 
tion, etc. The Hyde Park Investment Company will build 
six large dwelling-houses at Hyde Park the coming season, 
which will average $4,000 each. The Des Moines Sanitarium 
Company will erect three cottages at a cost of $2,000 each on 
the sanitarium grounds. 

There seems to be no doubt but that Mr. Peet, who 
expended about $25,000 the past year in laying out streets, 
grading lots, etc., on his large tract l3ing just west of Central 
place, will put up quite a large number of residences during the 
spring and summer. Arrangements have been about completed 
for the erection of three new churches and a large amount of 
money will also be expended by the school board in the erec- 
tion and betterment of buildings, which will be found necessary 
by the rapid growth of the city, as shown by the late school 
census, which shows Des Moines to be about two-hfths larger 
than any other city in the state. 

During the coming year the Des Moines Water Power 
Electric Company will erect a large factory building near the 
power-house, where room and power can be secured by such 
manufacturers as choose to occupy it. This will be a great 
boon to many small industries that do not wish to invest capital 
in the erection of factory buildings of their own. 

NEW MANUFACTORIES FOR 1 89 1. 

The outlook for the addition of many new manufacturing 
industries in the coming months could hardly be brighter than 
it is at present. Several new ones have already completed 
their arrangements for locating here, some are negotiating for 
locations and a great number are investigating the city's advan- 
tages, so far as their several lines of business are concerned. 



IOWA LEAVER. 'i-il 

This is manifest by the vast numoer of inquiries being received 
daily by the Commercial Exchange, and the correspondence 
in the main is from those manufacturers who have been 
successful heretofore and have ample capital to carry on 
this business rather than from so-called adventurers who are 
seeking a large bonus for some industry which is found to fail 
as soon as the bonus is used up, even if it should survive that 
length of time. Many of these factories seeking a change of 
location have their homes in the far east, while their trade, or 
the great bulk of it, is in the west and, with equal, or nearly 
equal, advantages presented by the great and growing west, 
they are obliged to occupy the field or suffer a diminution of 
business by its occupation by others. Many are forced to a 
change by the increased cost of production in the way of fuel, 
the working out of clay banks, sand, etc., from which they have 
obtained their supplies, while there are others now located 
in overcrowded districts where the production far exceeds the 
demand and they are at all times in peril from strikes. 

FUEL GAS PLANT. 

The Capital City Gas Light Company during the past 
year purchased a block or more of ground south of their present 
site and began work on their new fuel gas plant, putting in a 
holder tank, which is a fine piece of masonry, using 700,000 
brick and expending the sum of $40,000. The holder will have 
a capacity of 300,000 cubic feet and will be the largest in the 
country and the buildings about five times as large as the 
present plant of the company— the purifying house, the build- 
ings for the condensers and the scrubbers for removing the 
sulphur, injurious gases and tarry vapors, generating building 
and suitable ones for all the machinery necessary. Mechanical 



442 IOWA LEAVES. 

appliances will be put in the new works for all the material 
used in the manufacture of fuel gas. The plans are so arranged 
that when the coal has been once put into the house from the 
cars the furnaces and retorts can be filled without handling the 
coal over again. This will be strictly a fuel gas plant, the 
illuminating gas for the city being manufactured at the present 
works. Nothing will be left undone to make it one of the most 
complete plants to be found anywhere. Fully $500,000 will be 
used in the construction and equipment of these new works and 
the total sum may even exceed this amount. 

BEET SUGAR FACTORY. 

The beet sugar and preserving company that was organ- 
iztd some time ago have already commenced operations as far 
as the preserving department of the works is concerned and are 
turning out about three tons of" preserves, jellies, etc., daily. 
About June i the machinery will all be in place for the manu- 
facture of starch and syrups and the remainder of the 
machinery for the production of beet sugar will be ready for 
operation by October i, when the beets will be in condition 
to work. One thousand or more acres of beets will be planted 
each year. 

COLD STORAGE HOUSE. 

Messrs. Williams & Powell will build at an early date a 
cold storage plant on the bank of the river at Factory flat, with 
a capacity of 1,000 head of cattle. The main object is to 
furnish the citizens with better meat during the hot weather. 
They will slaughter and hold the meat in cold storage until it 
is thoroughly ripened and Des Moines will then be able to 
secure as good meat as can be found in any of the markets of 
the world. This will call for an investment of $20,000 or more. 



IOWA LEAVES. 443 

A HOSIERY MILL. 

We are informed by citizens of this city that early in the 
year there will be put in operation a mill for the knitting of 
all kinds of hosiery, both for women and children. The mill 
will be equipped with the very latest and most modern appli- 
ances for the production of this line of goods. 

THE STANDARD COAL COMPANY. 

The Standard Coal Company, with a capital of $1,000,000, 
has already been formed and filed articles of incorporation. 
The company is composed entirely of eastern capitalists and 
they will engage extensively in the manufacture of briquettes 
in this city. These briquettes are manufactured from coal 
slack in combination with oil and pressed into bricks, which 
make them exceedingly handy for the furnace, etc., and it is 
claimed that they can be sold at a very low price, while as 
fuel they are equal to the very best lump coal. Quite an 
amount of machinery will be used by this new plant and it 
will furnish employment to a large force of workmen. 

The Empire Steam Gauge Company, with a capital of 
$150,000, is another eastern company that has been organized 
and filed articles of incorporation to manufacture in Des Moines 
steam gauges and other articles on a large scale. The capital 
employed in this industry is all controlled by wealthy men in 
Massachusetts and they selected Des Moines on account of its 
cheap fuel and unsurpassed shipping facilities. 

And still another new industry, composed almost exclu- 
sively of Massachusetts men and capital, has filed articles 
of incorporation with Des Moines— the Field ISIanufacturing 
Company. This industry has a capital of $150,000 and 
will manufacture an extensive line of novelties such as are 



444 IOWA LEAVES. 

used in every family and will push the business in every 
direction. 

Among the many new industries looking up the advis- 
ability of locating their plants in this city may be mentioned 
three glass factories for the manufacture of bottles, both flint 
and green; a window-glass factory, a fruit jar factory, a rolling 
mill for the manufacture of merchant iron and now employing 
about 300 hands, a corset factory, an overall factory, which is 
one of the largest in the Union; a pump factory, hosiery and 
underwear mill, a cap factory, a pottery for the manufacture of 
fire clay and cooking utensils; one for the making of Rocking- 
ham and yellow ware, a manufactory of patented household 
specialties and a large flouring mill. 

NEW RAILROADS. 

Two new railroads will be added during the year to Des 
Moines' railway system, thus giving the city no less than nine- 
teen roads and there is also a rumor in the air that there may 
be a third one. Both of the roads that are virtually assured 
will be of great benefit to the city, opening up a section of 
country that has heretofore been closed on account of its 
inaccessibility in the way of shipment. 

A number of financial institutions will be added during 
the year and the great bulk of the capital composing them 
will be furnished by residents of the eastern states. One of 
these new institutions is the Marquardt Savings bank, which 
has opened its doors in its handsome new quarters on the 
corner of Locust and Fifth streets. A national bank with a 
paid-up capital of $500,000 is said to be assured, the entire 
amount being furnished b}' New York financiers. Two other 
financial organizations have begun operations, the Union 



IOWA LEAVES. 445 

Redemption & Bond Association and Equitable Co-operative 
Syndicate, both composed of Massachusetts capitahsts and 
organized for the investment of eastern capital in this section. 
Taken all in all, the future prospects for this city are far 
better than any of the many bright years that have passed into 
history. Many of the factories of this city are now behind 
with their orders and all are well stocked with them. The 
jobbers and merchants report growing business. Real estate 
men are well satisfied with the situation. Bankers are predict- 
ing better times in monetary affairs. Colleges are growing in 
reputation and bringing still larger numbers of students to the 
city and there is no reason why the whole state of Iowa should 
not rejoice at the present outlook which her beautiful capital 
city bears to-day. Northeast and central Iowa are teeming 
with beautiful agricultural lands and mineral wealth and those 
seeking homes in the great west should give these regions a 
personal inspection. 



CONCLUSION. 

IOWA ITS AGRICULTURAL AD\^ANTAGES AND INDUCEMENTS 

TO EMIGRATION. 

Iowa's sudden growth in population and solid distinctive 
wealth is rarely equaled in new agricultural settlements 
and has but few parallels in the histories of the states. 
Less than half a century ago civilization had hardly planted its 
aggressive foot within her border and the war-whoop of the 
savage echoed and re-echoed over her plains and hills. Her 
unbroken wilderness was rich and bea,utiful, but how lone and 
limitless! No plow had broken the sod, not a mill dam inter- 
rupted the murmur of her untamed streams in their onward 
flow to the gulf and no white man's home adorned a spot of 
her domain to mark the settled presence of civilization. All 
was in a state of nature; all was new and undeveloped. But 
what a change has been and is now going on! She is fast pass- 
ing, she is honorably and safely passing, to the high destiny 
that awaits her coming to crown her with success. 

On July 4, 1838, with a population of 22,859, by an act of 
congress approved June 12, 1838, Iowa was organized into a 
territory and in 1846, by an act of congress approved March 
3, 1845, ^t was admitted into the Union as a state. According 
to the state census of 1867 it numbered 902,040 inhabitants, 
with a property valuation of $256,517,184. In 1880 it was the 
twenty-eighth in population of the United States and territories, 

416 



IOWA LEAVES. 447 

in 1850 it was the twenty-seventh and in i860 it was only the 
twentieth. 

Thirty-five years ago not a raih'oad threaded its way 
across her beauty, not a locomotive bluffed an Iowa breeze and 
not a mile of rail guided the wheels of a speeding train over a 
foot of Iowa soil. Now more than 3,000 miles check her sur- 
face and answer to the call of business and pleasure, bending 
with the surplus products of her fertility and the precious 
freight of life, of beauty and of interest. In 1885, according to 
the state census, 100,297,559 bushels of grain answered to the 
demand of her productive industry. 

But Iowa represents more than this — something higher 
and nobler and better than material wealth and ph3'sical great- 
ness alone. All her great interests are keeping step with the 
sure and vigorous tread of modern progress. 

As necessary as they are to pecuniary prosperity' and 
as acceptable as they are to our desires, it is not the depth or 
richness of her soil, it is not her great mineral resources, it is 
not her meandering streams flowing gracefully to the support 
of the Father of Waters in its unceasing tribute to the main, 
nor her landscape beauty, boundless and romantic; neither is it 
her prairie grandeur, with its woodland relief stretching as far 
as the eye can reach, that fills the soul and calls forth the 
deepest heart-springs of local pride and attachment. More 
beautiful, more transcendently winning than these, is her honor- 
able growth and her great social development, that enchain the 
better feelings. Her high religious tone and progressive ideas 
cast about her an enchantment most pleasing and acceptable. 

"Our liberties we prize and our rights we will maintain." 
How often I have read and re-read that comprehensive motto 
and compared it with Iowa's history and standing. It belongs 



448 IOWA LEAVES. 

to her in more than a single sense. She has already won it. It 
is hers from merit no less than by adoption. An unswerving 
devotion to its principles has been vindicated by her civil career 
and nobly carried out on heroic battlefields. Does not its senti- 
ment shine forth in her educational system.^ Does not its spirit 
pervade her code of laws and flow as the vital current in every 
vein of her organism .^^ 

We like Iowa and her go-ahead spirit. We are proud of 
her character, proud of her martial record and proud of her 
constitutional guaranties and personal liberty. Yet at times we 
have allowed our mind to wander to other states and other 
countries in search of unalloyed perfection for full contentment. 
We have studied their geography, read their history and 
observed their progress, but from their geography, from their 
history and from their progress we have gladly turned back to 
our standard Iowa, relieved of discontent, with no diminished 
confidence in her present greatness or shadowed hopes of her 
future, but with renewed pride and satisfaction. Yes; to the 
proud commonwealth of Iowa, so vast in her agricultural 
resources and facilities, so progressive in her public improve- 
ments, so pre-eminently flattering in her public school system, 
so comprehensive and liberal in her benevolent and reformatory 
enterprises and withal so loyal in her attachment to the Federal 
constitution. 

As important as is the place she now holds in the nation, 
as lofty as soars her youthful fame, if the future but unfolds 
the promising present she is only in the bud of her greatness, 
power and wealth and has never beheld the acme of her possi- 
bilities. She is checked for higher purpose and greater attain- 
ments. She holds the essential elements of a durable prosperity 
and is not going to stand still, neither is she willing to loiter 



IOWA LEAVES. 449 

on the roadside — to the front. She is rising on the wings of 
development; she is on board the excelsior train; the steam is 
already up; the sound of the whistle has gone forth; the wheels 
are in motion, and no talk, no rivalry, no counter interest can 
keep her back. 

Iowa is a state of the first magnitude and capable of sus- 
taining a population of the most dense order. In extent of 
territory she is an empire b}' herself, containing 50,914 square 
miles, comprising an uncommon share of choice grazing and 
plow land. She presents a wide range of latitude, var3'ing con- 
siderabl}' in climate, thus opening an ample as well as inviting 
field in which the overflowing fullness of other communities 
may suit themselves. 

Her citizens will never be restricted to any one branch of 
business from necessity. Nature has lavishly bestowed upon 
her the elements of a happil}" diversified industry suited to the 
wants of a widespread people. Behold her coal fields and 
gypsum beds, her lime, her building stone, etc., her water 
power and great agricultural possibilities. To those in search 
of new homes let me say, come to. Iowa; come where the 
manly industries are respected; come where agriculture, manu- 
factories and mechanics are fundamenal sources of true personal 
independence and which confer grandeur, power and wealth 
upon nations are not held in reproach by a perverted public 
sentiment and help to keep them respected ; come to its broad 
expanse and reap the fruit of its generous soil. 

If you seek prosperity; if you seek enjoyment; if you 
would meet with a cordial welcome, come. The culture, 
wealth and enterprise of the world are now concentrating near 
our parallel of latitude, proving that cotton is no longer king, 
nor the stately forests of the north alone proffer inviting homes 



' 450 IOWA LEAVES. 

for the enterprising, cultivated race. With such convictions, 
most heartily do we invite millions to these privileges, to the 
goodly land which remaineth to be possessed. 

We owe much to the " fatherland " and to the older states. 
Why.^ Because the graves of our forefathers are there. Those 
low, rude school-houses (we fear, too, the high torturing backs), 
the old apple orchard with the sweet associations of good cider, 
perchance the smarting ones of the sprouts. Those very glare 
old hillsides where so many pleasant moonlit evenings were 
passed and the groves which bent over us as blessings, with 
joys or sighs, responsive to the emotions of the heart. The 
nuptial ceremonies, kitchen plays, hearthstone stories and hal- 
lowed church services carry us back to grave old scenes and 
associations which link us in affectionate remembrance to the 
past as the friend of our youth and now a partial education, 
but more honored in stimulating invention and enterprise 
than in molding the mind to contentment without improvement. 

No ragged mountain ranges north or south, east or west, 
present impassable barriers or necessitate circuitous, out of-the- 
way routes for artificial channels of trade, or cut off intercourse 
with neighboring states and interrupt direct relations with the 
choicest markets in the world. 

Her comparative proximity to the Pacific states is most 
favorable and by reason of her great network of railroads com- 
mercial relations hav'e been inaugurated and it has become one 
of the most accessible states in the Union. Being the nearest 
extensive agricultural district east of the Rocky mountains, 
evidently it will become the chief furnishing state and have the 
mining trade of the west. It is fast having the lumber trade 
of the pine regions on the north, the plantation trade of the 
sunny south and the present eastern market all in easy reach. 



IOWA LEAVES. 451 

Who that has studied the geography of our country and 
observes the spread of population and the progress of railroads 
can fail to see in Iowa's locality the future business and political 
center of that great nation which is giving home, security and 
freedom to over 60,000,000 people, acknowledging the same 
laws and having the same banner. 

It belongs to an agricultural region that is fast beckoning 
the seat of empire westward; from the rising toward the setting 
sun; from the Atlantic toward the Pacific ocean, and that holds 
not only present but increasing and enduring advantages and 
allurements. It is on the great main line from the emporium 
of the populous east to the wilderness and gold region of the 
distant west. It has been destined to furnish the right of way 
across its vast territory and the main trunk of our country's 
immense railway system witnesses the passage of common 
travel and extensive commerce between the most important 
portions of the civilized world. 

In this great central locality and desirable spot, in the 
great valley and near the Father of Waters, the seat of empire 
takes its way and the chaos of a mighty world is rounding 
into form. 



JUL 3 1902 



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